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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 23, 2016 - 10:24pm PT
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Here I am at the Homestead crag in Arizona!
Ha, I fooled you! I am actually at the movie theater getting ready to see the Reel Rock 11 tour! Awesome!!! At the movie theater, Tony Cadoran, Chara and other amazing climbers put together a Access Fund raffle and a photo booth of the Homestead climbing area. Curt Shannon from the Access Fund started the evening off giving a support speech to the movie audience. During movie intermission everybody voted on 15 different amazing photos. Tony Cadoran “Stary night at Enchanted Towers” photo won first place. At the end of the Reel Rock films the raffle winning tickets were picked.
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 23, 2016 - 10:26pm PT
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Reel Rock 11…..OMG, I’m in the movie! Near the end of the Ashima Shiraishi- Kai Lightner movie is a two second clip of Alex Johnson, Marty and Ashima smiling for Ashima’s dad at the 2014 Outdoor Retailers Show in Utah. Sofia Long was there and took this photo of the fun. The clip in the movie is from Hisatoshi Shiraishi (Poppo).
Photo of me with Ashima Shiraishi’s parents Tsuya and Hisatoshi was taken at the Utah Petzl corporate grand opening party August 2014. Photo by Sofia Long. Its all about the Love!
Big THANKS to the movie Producers again for the energy!
Many Blessings to the Shiraishi family and the Lightner family.
All of the films were great, no complaints! I love the horrifying screams on the big falls! Kai's mom complaining about being his belay Bitch is hilarious! My second time seeing the Dodo’s Delight was just as enjoyable as the first.
Great fun!
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 28, 2016 - 07:42pm PT
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 29, 2016 - 03:22pm PT
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Last week evolv rep Traci Cosmer visited the gym and gave a evolv shoe demo to the gym customers. evolv in the house!
Thanks Traci and evolv!
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 29, 2016 - 03:23pm PT
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Thrive Climbing
The Thrive Climbing holds shop is located here in Tempe AZ so I gave them a visit. Owner Ryan Wurm was on the scene and gave me a tour of where the Thrive magical holds are created.
Thrive makes really cool holds, large monster holds, fiberglass really large monstrous holds. aaaaaaa….fun stuff! Ryan donated a bunch of holds and hold molds to the museum. SWEET! Thanks Ryan! Thrive Climbing started in 2012.
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 29, 2016 - 03:57pm PT
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At the Focus Desert Classic comp Voodoo was on the scene showing all sorts of great sewn goods, and crash pads etc. It was great to catch up with Voodoo owner Gina Richer since they are located up in Flagstaff AZ and I don’t get up there enough.
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 29, 2016 - 04:00pm PT
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It was great to see Scott Early on the scene at the Desert Classic comp. I love his shirt statement. Scott took a ground fall while top roping which ended with a back vertebra break and two shattered heels. Scott was at the comp cheering on his daughter Sage who won first place in the Advanced category.
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 30, 2016 - 08:32pm PT
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A few nights ago Butora shoes visited the Phoenix Rock Gym and gave a shoe demo to all of the gym customers. Thanks Butora and Butora reps Heeran Joe and Mack Maier
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 4, 2016 - 09:14pm PT
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Look who is now working for me at the Phoenix Rock Gym. Climbing magazine cover nothing! Now you are under Marty’s direction! (whip snap, whip snap, hawk sound)! Yes the famous Jim Waugh. A museum tidbit about this issue of Climbing magazine…. This is issue #101 April 1987 which is the last issue of Climbing magazine which staples are used (taco fold) to hold the magazine pages together. Climbing magazine #102 is perfect bound where all pages are glued on one edge within a outer cover jacket. Very clean and beautiful energy signature! Love the tights!
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 7, 2016 - 10:20am PT
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PsicoBloc review
August 5, 2016
 40 photos
PsicoBloc: deep water soloing. The water at the base of the climb protects the climber in case of a fall. The 55’ climbing wall is located in the Utah Olympic Park and is built over the landing pool for the freestyle USA aerial skiers practicing their flips.
One of the highlights of going to the Outdoor Retailer Show is that PsicoBloc is held at the same time. This way the climbing athletes can support their sponsors at the show during the day, and compete later in the evening. This years PsicoBloc was awesome! Food vendors, climbing companies showing their goods, climbing stars signing posters, drinks, schwag and more…..
And then it started to rain. The spectators sitting on the lawn were prepared with umbrellas or ran for cover in one of the buildings. At least the rain never got heavy and just drizzled for 20 minutes, then quit.
While the climbing wall routes were changed from the Woman’s routes to the Mens routes, I visited the Alf Engen Ski Museum in the Joe Quinney building, which also has on display the Salt Lake 2002 Olympic Museum. I figured it was a perfect time to gather ideas for my future climbing museum. The displays are really cool! Props to the peoples who put together the museums!
Back to the comp and the climbing wall where a few skiers were entertaining the crowd with aerial tricks landing into the water. A guy also walked a 300’ slack line across the pool. The Mens Finals are on their way.
Big PROPS to Chris Sharma and the whole crew that put together PsicoBloc 2016. Great show for sure! The following day I was at the airport heading home to Arizona and I had some time to get food before getting on the plane. I spent the last four days at the Outdoor Retailers Show eating tons of great food samples and now I just wanted a burger. For years I have avoided the fast food world but McDonalds it was! Once I had my burger and fries I searched around for a table and there was only one available so I sat down. While indiscreetly looking at the gentleman to my left I noticed a PsicoBloc hat sticking out of his backpack. I happily commented to him, “so you paid $30.00 for the hat also.” He replied, “I actually got it for free.” ”I am the director of the PsicoBloc competition in Europe. Wow, Go Figure! We got into a fun conversation and then he mentioned to me that my plane is presently boarding. Oh Crap! I ran across the whole frickin’ airport as they kept announcing “final boarding, final boarding!” Got to the gate as the door was closing on the plane. I love the Summer OR Show adventures! The struggle of the reward!
Cheers Maurizio!
The woman’s route was rated 5.12+ and the mens route was rated 5.14-. The men were running the 55' route in less than one minute.
Final Placement:
Womens Finals:
1) Michaela Kiersch
2) Sidney Trinidad
Mens Finals:
1) Jan Hojer
2) Nathaniel Coleman
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 19, 2016 - 09:47am PT
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— AZ Hiking Shack
On October 15 the Arizona Hiking Shack organized a community fun day at the store which included a big sale, outdoor gear swap, Tips and Tricks seminar by Randy Propster from Backpacker Magazine, food, etc. So Jaime Gangi insisted that the Phoenix Rock Gym be present at the gear swap so I was roped in to getting a bunch of stuff together to swap. No problem, and our booth space was styling and in the shade! A few other people set up tables and the Arizona Mountaineering Club also set up a booth and had a few things for sale from Phoenix local Wally Vegors.
Fifteen years ago I visited Wally’s estate and purchased a few museum trinkets from him and I thought I got all of the prizes from his 1940s rack. But at the gear swap I wandered over to the AMC booth to inspect what he had brought and it only took a few seconds before total shock hit me, and I went into fainting mode. The AZ Hiking Shack is where my Chouinard museum is on display, and three of the items missing in the museum were sitting there on the table for sale. Late 1960 Chouinard Knifeblade 2 sizes and late 1960 Chouinard Vertical Knifeblade, $10.00 each. The Vertical Knifeblade is listed as priceless and I happened to purchase it at a gear swap located 25 feet away from my Chouinard Museum display. What are the chances of that?
What is beautiful about these three Chouinard trinkets is that they show proof of Chouinard’s transition from a square eye piton profile, to a angled profile and added notch. The Chouinard Pitons shown in the March 1960 Dolt catalog have a square profile, but by 1961 the notch was added to the Knifeblades and Bugaboos, and shortly after the Vertical Knifeblade was no longer made. The square of the eye on the blade side was angled sometime late 1960, and notch by mid 1960. Looking at Wally’s two Chouinard Knifeblades, one has a square profile and one a angled profile, and the Vertical Knifeblade has the angled profile. Cool!
The fun continues big time! Wally also had this mid 1940 Holubar piton and Gerry Pitons, and two Doug Black first generation angle pitons. These two pitons prove that Doug Black used galvanized rings on his first created angles, before he used stainless steel rings. Also Doug Black was known for welding the ends of the angle pitons. c1960s.
I noticed a small red bag on the booth table which was selling for only $15. When I poured it out the first thing I saw was a Dolt Step-On hanger. It is Wally’s small bolt kit from 1959. Also there are a few Gerry “Pop-Top” hangers and a aluminum hand drill. Wally had a larger bolt kit for sale as well and when I poured that out there was a second Dolt Step-On hanger sitting there. One has a 1/4 bolt hole and the other 3/8. Other hangers are thin Leeper and Doug Black ring rap hanger c1964. I love the square head steel bolts. Both of these bolt kits belong in a museum!
Another gem that was on the table was two mid 1940s Fritsch & Cie Zurich wafer pitons, a 1940s Holubar hammer and 1940s Holubar hammer holster. I was able to hold the items but they were already sold to another friend of Wally’s.
Wally is 85 years old and is still involved with the Arizona Mountaineering Club. At the swap was some old AMC monthly booklets which they are archiving, and old AMC Tshirts which I got for the museum.
Overall it was a great day, and Jaime and I were able to raise 175.00 for the Access Fund going toward improvements to the Homestead climbing crag. Brian May stopped by and donated a few big ENIX holds to the museum and PRG. Thanks to the Phoenix Rock Gym and the AZ Hiking Shack for the fun!
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 20, 2016 - 09:08pm PT
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A week ago I installed this museum display at Focus Climbing Center. These four powerhouse climbers just keep getting stronger. To me the display radiates energy and accomplishment. Believe in yourself and want it! Another great addition to the Karabin Climbing Museum!
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 21, 2016 - 07:17am PT
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New museum display at the Phoenix Rock Gym
The old climbing store space at the Phoenix Rock Gym has been sitting for a while, so I decided it would be a perfect location for some of the museum trinkets. Successfully I have found more glass patio doors to create the display with, which will be easier to keep the gym chalk dust out of the display. The display is 7’ tall x 13’ in length and will hold half of the bolting equipment (around 1000 items) in the Karabin Climbing Museum. First order of business is to do some sticker repairs on the floor so I got my friend Summit Cox to assist in the sticker peeling sticking frenzy fun. The sticker floor was originally created in 2006 for the AZ Cliff Hanger climbing store. Thanks to the many climbing manufacturers for their sticker support!
In the gym the store space is becoming the Lizard Lounge/ Karabin Climbing Museum. I am totally psyched to have a place to show the museum items to the public. So phase one of the display is complete! Many of these display panels I put together while my kids were in diapers 17 years ago, and the display was then dragged from one storage unit to another until now! The display so far is comprised of hand drills, hooks, hammers and some of the bolt hangers. The second half of the display will show another 1000 bolt hangers. Fun! Thanks to the many people who donated to the museum to make this display happen.
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Fritz
Social climber
Choss Creek, ID
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Nov 21, 2016 - 07:23am PT
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Totally awesome displays Marty! Great work!
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 3, 2016 - 07:13am PT
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Thanks Fritz for the energy!
La Sportiva 20th Anniversary Mythos collectors book and keychain. These were created in 2011 as a special gift for La Sportiva company managers and sales reps. The Keychain was created by Andrea Sampaoli in Italy. I am blown away on how much exact Mythos detail was put into the keychain shoes!
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 1, 2017 - 01:01pm PT
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Master artist and accomplished rock climber Chris Raypole created this awesome orchid pot for my sisters Christmas gift from me. Totally amazing piece and by coincidence my sister had an orchid sitting in her kitchen without a home. This was meant to be. Major props to Chris!
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 8, 2017 - 07:33pm PT
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Good Morning Arizona Channel 3
I woke up early saturday morning and decided to go to the rock gym to continue painting on the murals around the gym. I didn’t shower and was still in my pajamas, but first I picked up a few stray milk crates on the street along my journey. Also for some reason I felt the need to bring my Valley Giant cams to the gym and put them on display in the upstairs Karabin Museum. I arrived at the gym around 5:00am and to my surprise owner Paul Diefenderfer was vacuuming and cleaning the gym at high speed. Then suddenly a Channel 3 news vehicle arrived and put up a 20’ boom antenna out of their truck, and I was there busted holding stray milk crates in my pajamas. No this story is not about milk crates.
To my surprise, the Channel 3 Good Morning Arizona morning show was airing their weather segments live from the Phoenix Rock Gym. Not just one or two segments, but 16 segments over a 4 hour period. I am the Director of Vertical Entertainment at the gym and of course I am always last to know what is happening in the gym. Good times! So the staff involved was Dief, Marty, Kat, Bre, Jonah and Hanna, Alex arrived for the last segment. We were working with Weather/Meteorologist Kim Quintero and her camera man Mike Conlee. It was really cool to see how the process worked live as Kim popped in and out of the Good Morning Arizona show.
Qty 8 of the segments shown are presently on the Channel 3 website under “www.azfamily.com - header “Good Morning Arizona,”dated 1/7/2017 (scroll down to find them). The next day the Channel 3 morning crew was at the AZ Hiking Shack doing the same morning show. Thanks Good Morning Arizona Channel 3 for the fun!
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 8, 2017 - 07:44pm PT
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October 23, 2016 Arno Ilgner and Tracy Martin were in town at the Phoenix Rock Gym training climbers with their teaching named Falling and Commitment. Arno surprised me bringing along two of his personal hand drills and donated them to the museum. Arno is a total badass climber that was Blessed having a very balanced lead head. He teaches his secrets in his classes. Thanks Arno tons, Love you man!
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 8, 2017 - 08:11pm PT
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I painted a few Jean Jackets between 1981 and 1986. Many of the jackets I painted for friends but the Jimi Hendrix jacket is my personal jacket. Also sharing jean pants I painted and clothing I wore back in High school in 1981/82. Yes I dressed like Jimi Hendrix for my Junior and Senior year. My poor parents, Good Grief!
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