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ron gomez
Trad climber
fallbrook,ca
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Topic Author's Original Post - Jul 5, 2011 - 08:39am PT
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Thought it might be nice if you posted a few good words about John or a good story today.
I remember John being at a very happy stage in life one of our last visits. He had met his soul mate and was very much in love, that's all he wanted to talk about, he was at a good stage in fatherhood relishing his son Tyrus......he seemed relaxed,content and happy. Thinking hard about John today. I know yer watching down on us Brother!
Peace
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the kid
Trad climber
fayetteville, wv
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John lived his life his way, never compromised style for a grade or a route. He carried the torch til the very end and did it with style and passion unmatched into todays world of short cuts and glory seekers. He was a role model for many and a mentor and friend to me. It was an honor to share a day of bouldering or go climb on a rope with him, each one more memorable than the last. There may be climbers who push the envelope that he built, but there will never be one so core, so gifted and so connected to the sport.
I miss him and will remember his words of encouragement, his friendhsip and support over the years.
Kurt
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Johnny K.
climber
Southern,California
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When I think of John,climbing or not climbing,a huge smile always comes to heart.He was,is and always will be one of the most amazing souls to have touched so many people in so many different beautiful ways.
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survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
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Barely knew him, but everyone knew he was a giant figure.
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Doug Robinson
Trad climber
Santa Cruz
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Through the weeks of debate over Growing Up, John was the best opponent we had. Things got messy and personal, flame wars would break out, people degenerated to name-calling and threats. Not John. He was sure, from his point of view, that we were wrong. But he never made it about us. He kept his spotlight on the style of the climbing, and kept refining his statements. He knew perfectly well what he felt, so he kept working on how to express it. Finally, toward the end of what at the time became the longest thread ever, he got it down to the shortest post:
Up is up, down is down.
I really admired John for that. Wish I could have told him before he was gone.
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SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
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I still have to say I was graced to see him in Golden, Colorado
just a couple of days before we lost him. No question, the best ever.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Wished I'd have known him better, and for longer... a complicate guy in some respects, but certainly one of the most able climbers of his generation, and accomplished.
I was amazed to have been so inspired climbing with him the one time that I did... and to have learned so much in such a short time. Oddly, I had thrust in my face an article (in Life?) about him and his soloing regime in Tuolumne, and soloing in general, by a friend who demanded I admit that climbing was dangerous and that I should cease doing it. That was in the 80s, and it put into stark contrast the choices we make as climbers against the "rest of society." Here was a bit of celebrity, and probably not much more, and a bit that the climbing community probably frowned on... it was a deep demonstration of the choices we make, with no expectation of wider acceptance, and no sympathy for the consequences of our choices.
John seemed to have accepted that for all those years. He had an amazingly consistent vision.
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pa
climber
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Late night drive back to Mammoth, coming back from Europe, glad to be rid of airports, looking forward to John's arms and Tyrus's smiles...suddenly, out of the darkness, a shadow, a thud...bird hits the windshield. I pick it up, it's still alive, I nurse it through the night with Tyrus and John.
In the morning it is dead.
As we head up to Matrimony Wall for a few pitches, I hang back with the bird hidden in my shirt, wanting to bury it, but shy about admitting to such things.
When I catch up to John, he looks at me for a bit, then says;"You buried that bird didn't you?". I asked him how he knew and he answered: "I know that look that's in your eyes...been seeing it in the mirror every morning since the car accident."
Thank you all for remembering the greatness of his heart.
paola
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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"I believe it is essential to have a spiritual base- whatever it is- to help you deal with the larger difficulties in your life. People can't tell you what to do. It is relevant to figure out why we are here and what we ought to be doing about it the best we can. Those who have risen to the top, they have an ingredient of inner strength that comes from having connected to the greater nature. Ricardo Cassin comes to mind, and John Bachar. Decades later we meet them and feel their energy, their spirit, their connection with the cosmos. They understood all that stuff."- Tom Frost
More roots JB here...
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=930925&msg=1407332#msg1407332
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
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I only knew John from here, from chatting with him. Of course I knew of the legend before.
He came off as a very thoughtful and honest guy here. Very genuine. He was never shy about stating his thoughts on matters. I really dig that about him.
He was always genuine. Always will be. Cheers, Paola!
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micronut
Trad climber
fresno, ca
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I was a college kid when I first read about The Bachar Yerian. It blew my mind. Then I read how strong a Bachar Ladder could make me. I immediately went out and made one and within one week had a severe case of tendonitis in both elbows. That thing was a nightmare. I concluded John Bachar must not be human. I wish I could have met him.
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TripleS_in_EBs
climber
Poulsbo, WA
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Paola,
I was introduced to you and John one day at Whitney Portal. That brief encounter is forever seared in my memory. John was so enthusiastic about a new shoe he had just developed. He described all the details and offered to customize a pair of them - but that was all really just a reflection of his enthusiasm for climbing and for sharing his hard-won experience with others who were trying to develop as climbers. Wish I had snapped a photo of his smile that day, but, perhaps better, I've got the picture in my mind.
I also have to say that the article you wrote in Alpinist about your ascent of Oz with John was golden. Wow, you captured something amazing there. Thanks for that.
Blassings to you.
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Peter Haan
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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From: John Bachar
Date: September 21, 2006 11:47:38 AM PDT
To: Peter Haan
Subject: Re: msg from Peter Haan
Peter, Yeah thanks. It was good to see you as well. You still look
the same - I couldn't believe it. Thanks for the support, it really
helps. The thing you said about accidents too - they happen no matter
what, sometimes you're in the front seat, sometimes you're in the
back. That actually makes some sense to me - I haven't heard it put
that way yet but it "sticks to the ribs" better than what most
everybody else has told me.
You gotta know that you were a pretty big hero to me and Kauk. We
were always a bit intimidated by the stuff you were doing back in the
day. Klemens too. You guys were big and serious. Sh#t,...we were just
scrawny little dudes. Everybody seemed so big - not just size but
reputation and aura as well. Anyway, thanks again for showing up at
Steve's memorial. I hope we can go climb a bit this spring if you're
into it. Maybe some off-width? We'll get Ronnie out there too!
Cheers, john
On Sep 21, 2006, at 8:11 AM, Peter Haan wrote:
> Hi John and Anastacia,
>
> It was great to see you after all these years, John, and to meet
> you Anastacia. I hope your drive back home was reasonably
> comfortable. Thanks for inviting me to the Oakland hills
> memorial. It was really helpful for everyone there. Of course it
> was excruciating at first but I felt a huge burden leave us all
> towards the end, and it seemed that a special sort of new happiness
> took its place. I don't think I had ever met Steve Karafa, but came to
> support you two. And it was really great to finally meet Dave
> Yerian. Hopefully he will contact me soon so we can do stuff
> together down here.
>
> Accidents such as these can and do happen to all of us; sometimes
> we're at the wheel, sometimes we are in the back seat. It just
> happens, and it occurs all the time and to everyone, including
> Wolfgang G and Roberta N., you and me. I hope you understand that
> we all support you and that in your heart, guilt and regret do not
> take the place of the important business of going forwards,
> continuing to be the superb climber and man that you are. You are
> one of our heros, and for plenty of permanent and great reasons.
>
> best Peter H.
>
Twenty-two months later he was gone.
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ron gomez
Trad climber
fallbrook,ca
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 5, 2011 - 01:42pm PT
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Paola, thanks for your input here. I was hesitant to mention your name, but after talking with you this morning I'm glad I posted this thread. Heavy heart and many thoughts today, but I always know that John was happy and had love in his heart at the end. Give Tyrus a big hug, I'll talk with him later today. We had a great weekend...Malto Buono!
Peace
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klk
Trad climber
cali
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drove up to the lakes last week, first time ive been since the memorial.
stopped off at steelfingers on the way home.
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Rick A
climber
Boulder, Colorado
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Thinking back to the slide show at Neptune’s that snowy February night in 2009. The crowd was alive and the excitement was palpable. Few had ever heard John speak and most knew John only from his routes and campfire tales.
He handled the performance like he would have handled soloing a 5.9 hand crack: completely at ease, secure, and enjoying himself. He had an understated style, but his comic timing was perfect. He showed a slide from the 80’s of some impressive solo, but there were murmurs from the crowd because of his attire: then-trendy pink lycra tights. He waited a beat, then said something like, “Let this be a lesson to you young climbers out there, give some thought to what you are wearing when you climb.”
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steve west
Social climber
Newport Beach
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So Jesus the owner of Boreal is very impatient,, my wife and I and the sales manager are in the car waiting for john ,,, jesus says steve go find him.
I run back to the lab as john was detailing a shoe to be called the "stinger" it was a new technical shoe that raised the bar for so called slippers.. there was john.. and five factory guys. John is at the chalk board teaching them algebra.. OMG.. they were trying to save leather with the die casts , they needed a little math.. yep his dad would of been proud..
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east side underground
Trad climber
Hilton crk,ca
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miss shooting the sh#t about powder runs at the vons. RIP JB
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WBraun
climber
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Me and Rick Cashner once walked up to look at a new route to free climb.
We looked at it for a while and decided we didn't belong here and realized it's a Bachar lead.
We told him later there's this killer new pitch and it's YOU.
It is what's now called "The Phantom" on the Iota at Reeds Pinnacle climbing area .......
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D.Eubanks
climber
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I remember being on the Sheep Ranch and at dusk John started playing his saxohone in the meadows. The sound of Johns sax bouncing off the East face of El Caps amphitheater was incredible.
He sure had a knack for music too.
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