Discussion Topic |
|
This thread has been locked |
| Messages 1 - 16 of total 16 in this topic |
dougalclimber
climber
|
|
|
Topic Author's Original Post - Jun 13, 2011 - 08:28pm PT
|
It's gorgeous, it's often photographed, but has anyone here climbed it. If so, by what route? Comments? Beta?
|
|
dee ee
Mountain climber
citizen of planet Earth
|
|
|
Jun 13, 2011 - 09:41pm PT
|
I did that NE Face route in July 1977 with S. H. FA Gary Colliver and Steve Thompson 7/67.
We enjoyed the route but were not sure if we adherred perfectly to the FA route. There was good climbing and loose rock here and there. There was a hard (5.9)chimney section about 2/3s of the way up. It was the crux for us. We did see at least one fixed pin en route. We descended the N. face.
I have hiked by the peak many times since, it is totally beautiful.
|
|
Spike Flavis
Trad climber
Truckee California
|
|
|
Jun 13, 2011 - 10:09pm PT
|
I did the NE face in '98 w/ the late, great Allison Kreutzen. see my blog @
http://www.garagegymtraining.com/
Like Dee ee I remember a 5.9? loose, grainy chimney that wasn't too bad. I also remember noting
that some of the other routes looked good as well. We climbed it car to car no problem. Have fun.
|
|
tallguy
Trad climber
eastside
|
|
|
Jun 13, 2011 - 11:44pm PT
|
Be ready for old school 5.9 from the era when men were men. Bring a big cam or two for the standard route. Fun.
|
|
pc
climber
|
|
|
Jun 14, 2011 - 02:20am PT
|
Great photos T-bone! Good looking climbing.
|
|
dougalclimber
climber
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 14, 2011 - 09:45am PT
|
Be ready for old school 5.9 from the era when men were men.
That's probably all I need to know. I wasn't one of those then and I'm old now.
Thanks all for comments. Nice photos T-Bone.
|
|
dee ee
Mountain climber
citizen of planet Earth
|
|
|
Jun 14, 2011 - 12:37pm PT
|
In retrospect I'm not sure the chimney was the crux.
|
|
dougalclimber
climber
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 14, 2011 - 02:13pm PT
|
Very nice photo Dee ee. Secor lists a Class 5 route he calls the E. Side route which seems to be the broad ridge line which is climbers left in your photo and separated from the NE Face by a couloir. The FA was done in 1958. I saw a trip report somewhere of this route which described the rock as very good.
In the same area, I'm also curious about Mt. Haeckel. Moynier and Fidler list an alternative to the NW Arete as a Class 4 buttress to the east with "many cracks, flakes and knobs reminiscent of the SE buttress of Cathedral Peak."
|
|
dougalclimber
climber
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 14, 2011 - 02:44pm PT
|
|
|
aldude
climber
Monument Manor
|
|
|
Jun 14, 2011 - 05:21pm PT
|
While you're @ it check out the North Arete on Clyde Spires.....8 pitches 10a ***
|
|
Fat Dad
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
|
|
|
Jun 14, 2011 - 05:33pm PT
|
Thanks t-bone. First time I've ever seen photos of that route.
Quite a while back I spent a couple of nights at Hungry Packer while climbing Mt. Haeckel, etc. Had lots of time to contemplate that face and figure out where the route went. Hard not to take a good picture of that thing.
Must get back there.
|
|
tallguy
Trad climber
eastside
|
|
|
Jun 14, 2011 - 05:52pm PT
|
aldude.. Any more info on the clyde spires route? Based on your three stars, I'd love to give it a try. Details please..
|
|
rdh
climber
|
|
|
Jun 15, 2011 - 04:10pm PT
|
The NE face/Colliver route was for me one of the better/best 5.9s in the high country. The crux I remember was a short steep corner (fixed pin), a pitch or two above the chimney. Very little loose rock, and very enjoyable 3rd class for the last 500 ft. to the top. As was noted, it was a very doable car to car.
|
|
aldude
climber
Monument Manor
|
|
|
Jun 15, 2011 - 04:18pm PT
|
tallguy - 3 out of 5*.....cool crux OW on third pitch. Info in Secor.
|
|
| Messages 1 - 16 of total 16 in this topic |
|
SuperTopo on the Web
|
Let us know!