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sethsquatch76
Trad climber
Joshua tree ca
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Definitely glad your ok!!!!!!!
12 feet off the ground, not sure how you did not have the right size piece of gear.......#2 camalot......
Being supportive, I promise. Here is a synopsis of the formula I teach clients. On a 1 to 4 scale. One being sh#t, and 4 being the cats meow.
Step 1. Do we have good rock quality, both macro and micro? If so add +1
Step 2. Do we have a parallel sided crack? Or constricted crack? If so add +1
Step 3. Is my cam 50% or more compressed? If so add +1
Step 4. Do I have good contact on all lobes (3 or 4)? If so add +1
Add steps consecutively.
With out step one, look else where. Hopefully...... Step 2, things are looking good, I will have to work hard to screw this up! Step 3, sitting pretty!!!! Step 4, bomber, Lets haul the SUV up the cliff!!!!!!!
Hope this helps,
Seth
http://www.cliffhangerguides.com
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big ears
Trad climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 9, 2011 - 12:16am PT
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here is the whole story.....
Got up, took a fall on the red one, it held. Realized I needed a smaller piece for the rest of the route, and it just so happened there was a BOMBER green c3 right in front of my face, I back cleaned (stupid move I know. Hindsight is a wonderful thing). pulled the green piece out, and almost immediately the red one popped. The green would have held. I was suspect about the red on the whole time, but figured since it held the fall, I was ok. I was wrong
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Pennsylenvy
Gym climber
A dingy corner in your refrigerator
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Thank god I'm not a noob.....
"Definitely glad your ok!!!!!!!
12 feet off the ground, not sure how you did not have the right size piece of gear.......#2 camalot......
Being supportive, I promise. Here is a synopsis of the formula I teach clients. On a 1 to 4 scale. One being sh#t, and 4 being the cats meow.
Step 1. Do we have good rock quality, both macro and micro? If so add +1
Step 2. Do we have a parallel sided crack? Or constricted crack? If so add +1
Step 3. Is my cam 50% or more compressed? If so add +1
Step 4. Do I have good contact on all lobes (3 or 4)? If so add +1
Add steps consecutively.
With out step one, look else where. Hopefully...... Step 2, things are looking good, I will have to work hard to screw this up! Step 3, sitting pretty!!!! Step 4, bomber, Lets haul the SUV up the cliff!!!!!!!
Hope this helps,
Seth
http://www.cliffhangerguides.com "
doing math while climbing??????
I always try to place extra gear down, place two pieces in critical ground fall zones! I see many climbers trust one piece of gear in critical situations...not me.
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Ian Gill
Big Wall climber
Redding, CA
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Decked one time about 29 years ago, due to that great equalizer - STUPIDITY.
1st pitch of South Seas - First placement off the ground was a hook, to reach a fixed pin. Pin looked like it had been there forever - I DIDN'T EVEN TEST IT! What a dumbass move, especially with all the wall experience I had.
Pin pulled as soon as I stepped onto it, luckily sending me only about 6-8 feet or so to the apron below. I had never NOT tested a fixed pin before!
That false sense of security of being so close to the ground made me careless. Only 8 feet? Yeah, but STILL could've been hurt if I had landed on my head, as no one (or almost no one), including myself, wore helmets in those days.
Always test, always use the right piece - forced pieces force falls!
Glad you're okay!
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big ears
Trad climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 9, 2011 - 01:05am PT
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ok, I was suspect about it UNTIL it held the fall. Then, as I stated, stupidly, thought it was good
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PAUL SOUZA
Trad climber
Clovis, CA
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Sounds like someone is bored......
Troll
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ß Î Ø T Ç H
Boulder climber
bouldering
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I was belaying a dude on something at ORG. He got about that far up and fell. I ignored the rope etc and just spotted him. He said "nice catch", but I'm pretty sure he was pissed or whatever.
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ontheedgeandscaredtodeath
Trad climber
San Francisco, Ca
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Once the moves stop feeling solid for me I almost always back the gear up- if'n I can't, and the fall would have consequences if the last piece were to fail, I seriously reconsider my options.
Leading at one's limit requires constant evaluation and re-evaluation of ability, gear, rock quality, and fall scenarios.
I'm glad the OP is o.k.!
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o-man
Social climber
Paia,Maui,HI
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My good friend Ed became unattached to the rock while we were climbing one day. He was out from the gear just about a foot or so shy of the distance the gear was to the ground. I was tied off to a sturdy tree and when he softly hit the ground,I was suspended in the air fully locked off on my belay plate. We finished that climb and did numerous others in the years to come. ED 185lb me 135 lb
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utahman912
Social climber
SLC, UT
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The next day, a group asked to borrow our stick to avoid a replay
Stick Clip - Don't leave home without it
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