Securing fixed ropes - best option?

Search
Go

Discussion Topic

Return to Forum List
This thread has been locked
Messages 1 - 18 of total 18 in this topic
audiobahn1000

climber
Topic Author's Original Post - May 29, 2011 - 06:55pm PT
The other day, at Dinner Ledge on the Prow, a few people were arguing about how to secure a fixed rope that went up the bolt ladder on the dihedral. For those not familiar, the fixed rope was running over a sharp dihedral between pitch three and four and they wanted to secure overnight in a manner to prevent the wind from destroying the rope by blowing it over the same sharp edge over and over. Anyway one person said the rope should be free to move around a bit and another said the rope should be secured to the lower belay station and tensioned with a wall hauler or locking belay device so it wouldent move.

Whats the best way to secure a fixed rope overnight in high winds so as to prevent it from getting sawed through on a sharp edge? Tension it or let it fly around a bit?
karodrinker

Trad climber
San Jose, CA
May 29, 2011 - 06:56pm PT
Id use knots.
Captain...or Skully

climber
or some such
May 29, 2011 - 06:59pm PT

Dinner Ledge isn't on The Prow.
karodrinker

Trad climber
San Jose, CA
May 29, 2011 - 07:06pm PT
I think that's called a roof. And sharp indeed, luckily someone had taped it already.
utahman912

Social climber
SLC, UT
May 29, 2011 - 07:13pm PT
I would defer to the Taco's own super-guru of climbing best parctices, Phil Olinick, on this one. Phil, can you help us out?
Tom

Big Wall climber
San Luis Obispo CA
May 29, 2011 - 09:03pm PT
You're worried about a rope over a sharp edge swinging around idly in the middle of the night.

But, you're not worried about sawing through the rope while learning to jug the next day.

.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.

Yer gonna die



audiobahn1000

climber
Topic Author's Reply - May 29, 2011 - 09:48pm PT
So I take it no one knows the answer.
Captain...or Skully

climber
or some such
May 29, 2011 - 09:54pm PT
I never fixed from there. Led it & kept going.
It's your call onsite.There's a big tree on the other side of the ledge so you could tie up clear of your Nemesis. Try that, maybe.
Cheers.
WBraun

climber
May 29, 2011 - 10:14pm PT
Securing fixed ropes

If you have no clue then give it up now.

What's the world coming to?
mucci

Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
May 29, 2011 - 10:23pm PT
It would help if you could tell us exactly which route.

Bunch of tricks for the fixing the Kor.

Garden hose, sliced down the middle and some Ducktape works wonders on your psych during the jug in the morning.
JakeW

Big Wall climber
CA
May 29, 2011 - 11:29pm PT
I'm guessing that in the amount of time people were arguing about this, mid-wall, you could've just topped out. Ditto for the amount of time it would take to do all the weird garden hose duck tape stuff.

But there are lots of fixed ropes in Yosemite. If you want to secure one for yourself, just go get it...its all yours.
mucci

Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
May 29, 2011 - 11:43pm PT
Sometimes duck tape just isn't enough when you venture beyond the milk runs.

2 min STOPS THE CHOP!
karodrinker

Trad climber
San Jose, CA
May 30, 2011 - 01:34am PT
Has anyone gotten the chop jugging up he Kor roof? That edge was un nerving as hell.
Tom

Big Wall climber
San Luis Obispo CA
May 30, 2011 - 04:57am PT
WVB is the one to ask about chopped n00bs on Dinner Ledge.

The traditional place to saw through your rope while jugging is from the P4 anchor of the Tangerine Trip. Three ropes tied together make it almost impossible to not bounce the rope back and forth over the sharp edge.

Nowadays, people wanting to live to finish the TT fix to P5.
rockermike

Trad climber
Berkeley
May 30, 2011 - 05:11am PT
Decades ago a friend of mine fixed the Kor roof, and pulled the rope really tight, then anchored it for the night. The wind blew all night and the rope got to vibrating, with the sharp edge continually sawing in the same spot. When he jugged in the morning the rope was cut 3/4s of the way through. Needless to say he had to clean his pants.

I always tie the lower end with maybe 3 feet of slack. (it won't cut, but wont blow around the corner either). A super tight rope cuts real easy.

and/or you can tie in a lose runner from just above to just below the edge, as a backup if things go bad in the night.

Now what to do about hungry rats. That one I don't have an answer for.
Tom

Big Wall climber
San Luis Obispo CA
May 30, 2011 - 05:32am PT
The wind blew all night and the rope got to vibrating

Well, there you have it: a long stretched rope in thin air is gonna go medieval guitar string on your ass, and the Devil's riff is gonna get you.



Wade Icey

Trad climber
www.alohashirtrescue.com
May 30, 2011 - 12:13pm PT
I recall the p4 anchors on the Trip being a straight air shot to the trees. sharp edge at the top of two has chopped a cord or two. And then there are the jugging mishaps cleaning pitch 4.
ElCapPirate

Big Wall climber
California
May 30, 2011 - 02:41pm PT

I only tension my fixed ropes if there are no edges and the rope is plenty far away from the rock. Otherwise I leave a little slack in it. If I’m really worried about the edge I will tie a knot at either side of the edge on good protection. This way there is no weight on the sharp edge, it’s the weight of the rope combined with the wind moving it that causes a problem.

Oh, and use a proper rope protector… duct tape on the rock is SOO ghetto.

Have FUN!
Messages 1 - 18 of total 18 in this topic
Return to Forum List
 
Our Guidebooks
spacerCheck 'em out!
SuperTopo Guidebooks

guidebook icon
Try a free sample topo!

 
SuperTopo on the Web

Recent Route Beta