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nutjob
Gym climber
Berkeley, CA
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May 25, 2011 - 07:12pm PT
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Dear Donini,
Was it boring when there was only igneous rock to climb in the beginning?
How did you prepare for sedimentary and metamorphic stuff when that later came along?
What do you think will be next?
My climbing girlfriend uses crack gloves, and I'm a little embarrassed. What should I do?
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Largo
Sport climber
The Big Wide Open Face
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May 25, 2011 - 08:43pm PT
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Jim, I'll bet anyone here one million dollars that Bridwell was the first one up - all the way up - the compressor route. I've heard the stories and all the details - I actually interviewed Jim for Mountain about this like 200 years ago and I'm convinced that the Bird got up the thing first.
And you?
JL
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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May 25, 2011 - 08:45pm PT
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Asked and answered Largo.
Everyone here knows Jim finished it.
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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May 25, 2011 - 08:51pm PT
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You drink Buttwiper?
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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May 25, 2011 - 09:01pm PT
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Largo, I think you're right.
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Hawkeye
climber
State of Mine
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May 25, 2011 - 09:04pm PT
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My partner's hot wife keeps coming on to me at parties, should I go for it or tell him about it? I'm pretty conflicted about it because he ropeguns all the hard pitches when we climb...
Almost conflicted in Margaritaville
i cannot pretend to have donini's knowledge but this is easy. if your partner's wife is hot and he has money then drop his ass a great distance next time out....
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Decko
Trad climber
Colorado
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May 25, 2011 - 10:59pm PT
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Dear Dininosauraus.......
Why oh why do you travel far away to go climb when you have not traveled the comparatively short distance to Cody Wyoming for Ice Nirvana ???
Why oh Why ???
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Fritz
Trad climber
Choss Creek, ID
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May 25, 2011 - 11:12pm PT
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Hawkeye: For some reason: I thought about this question, while out pulling weeds on the ranchette this afternoon.
Pulling weeds: clears my mind wonderfully.
Re your comment:
i cannot pretend to have donini's knowledge but this is easy. if your partner's wife is hot and he has money then drop his ass a great distance next time out....
Your thoughts do not work in Donini-world, or the real world.
Here's my thoughts on the rules.
First rule is: don’t think with your penis. Penises don’t think well.
Second rule is: Don’t mess with the wife of someone who is your friend. You will be sorry.
Third rule is: If you can’t work through the first two rules: don’t climb with someone who is pissed off at you.
Fourth rule is: Don’t think with your penis.
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guido
Trad climber
Santa Cruz/New Zealand/South Pacific
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May 25, 2011 - 11:23pm PT
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There once was a lad named Donini
Who some thought a bit of a meany
Cantankerous at best
He slandered the rest
While frontpointing a slab of Linguine
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this just in
climber
north fork
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May 25, 2011 - 11:46pm PT
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Hey Donini, did Jesus smoke pot?
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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May 25, 2011 - 11:48pm PT
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An old climber named Jim had a rack.
To the Creek he would always come back.
He'd corner some prey,
And, "just for the day,.."
He'd sandbag with a "pre-wired" crack.
(Jim, its not a secret any more,..lol)
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couchmaster
climber
pdx
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May 26, 2011 - 10:01am PT
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There once was a climber named Jim
Who's build was lithe, lean, and slim
he said with a grin, while wiping his chin.....
wait -needs work, I'll be back
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Roger Breedlove
climber
Cleveland Heights, Ohio
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May 26, 2011 - 11:49am PT
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I like your poem. Jim rhymes; Arnold doesn't. They both come back. Otherwise, hard to tell apart.
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Prod
Trad climber
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May 26, 2011 - 12:02pm PT
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I think Alpinist MAgazine needs a "Dear Jim" Advice column. 100% non climbing related. How funny would that be?
Prod.
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DJS
Trad climber
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May 26, 2011 - 12:22pm PT
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Dear Jim
I retrieved a stuck BD Number 1 cam yesterday. It had been in a roof crack for 2 weeks and suffered some rust. What is the best way to clean it for further use?
By the way I tried shoving it up my friends ass for placing it in an obvious constriction.
That didn't work.
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Hawkeye
climber
State of Mine
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May 26, 2011 - 12:58pm PT
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fritz, you need to lighten up buddy!
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Bargainhunter
climber
Central California
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May 26, 2011 - 02:38pm PT
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Dear Donini,
What was it like to babysit Fred Beckey?
Sincerely,
BH
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nutjob
Gym climber
Berkeley, CA
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May 26, 2011 - 03:41pm PT
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Dear Donini,
Did you really rest on the 7th day or was that rumor started much later?
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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May 26, 2011 - 03:45pm PT
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I wonder if Jim will enlist Werner's help with the answers? He's a suitably inscrutable oracle.
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healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
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Topic Author's Reply - May 27, 2011 - 01:14am PT
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Straight off of RC.com today: Dear Donini...
Help. Climbing with my buddy is a downer
So one of my good buddies is also my main climbing partner and climbing with him has been a freaking downer lately.
He gets really upset whenever he can't send a route or problem after one or two tries and it makes him look like a pouty little girl. He punches the wall and walks around like he stepped in dog sh#t without shoes. The thing is that these routes/problems are above his limit yet he expects to magically get better without putting in the hard work and effort. I've tried bringing it up to him and nothing changes.
I tell him that climbing should be fun at the very least and that he shouldn't be climbing if he is going to leave the gym/crag all fumed. I tell him that if he is pushing his limit that he should not only expect to fall, but to fall over and over again. He tells me how much better I am than him at climbing but in a way where he is putting himself down but it is because I worked my ass off (I sent almost every V0, V1, and V2 before even touching a V3 at the gym). I could go on and on.
The worst part is that when this happens his safety goes out the damn door. We were climbing on TR the other day and there was literally 15 feet of slack in the system which I know isn't a "big deal" compared to lead falls but it's not necessary. (I was climbing on an overhanging route and the rope was drooped over my shoulder and I couldn't see it, otherwise I would have stopped sooner) He stops doing partner checks and I know that it is stupid/mindless stuff like this that is going to get one of us hurt/killed in the future (if I keep climbing with him)
I already have multiple climbing partners but I want to keep climbing with him based on our pasts. How would you guys approach this situation?
TLDR
My good buddy is my main climbing partner. He becomes a whiny little bitch whenever he can't send and his safety goes out the window. What would you do?
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