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| Messages 1 - 35 of total 35 in this topic |
Slater
Trad climber
Central Coast
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Topic Author's Original Post - May 13, 2011 - 11:45pm PT
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It's finished! We're sending it off to the printers.
Tollhouse Rock means so much to so many people, and it's so rich in history, and the climbing is just plain fun. It was a great project to be a part of and I met some really cool people along the way. The guide comes alive with Dwight's artwork and wonderful prose. We added a ton of history and it's full color with some watercolor thrown in to keep it artsy. Here is a peek...
Thank you so much to everyone who helped out, it's a great book and we hope it lives up to your expectations.
Long live the 'house!
-Tom
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socalbolter
Sport climber
Silverado, CA
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May 14, 2011 - 12:07am PT
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Congrats Tom!
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cragnshag
Social climber
san joser
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May 14, 2011 - 12:39am PT
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Good looking watercolor topo there.
Are all the topos watercolor?
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murcy
Gym climber
sanfrancisco
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May 14, 2011 - 01:56am PT
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sweet. first trip there only a few weeks ago. where do i send my box tops?
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JEleazarian
Trad climber
Fresno CA
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May 14, 2011 - 02:42am PT
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I'm looking forward to it, Tom. Thanks.
John
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Texplorer
Trad climber
Sacramento
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May 14, 2011 - 05:03am PT
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How would we go about getting one of these?
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Slater
Trad climber
Central Coast
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Topic Author's Reply - May 14, 2011 - 09:06pm PT
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The local Fresno REI I think is going to carry them.
Maximus Press online and probably other regional climbing stores.
I always do the mail me a check and I'll mail you the book deal as well...
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ODW
Mountain climber
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Jun 28, 2011 - 12:22am PT
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Hey Slater, Whats your address so I can get one of those tollhouse route books. They dont have them at the Fresno Rei yet.
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Roxy
Trad climber
CA Central Coast
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Jun 28, 2011 - 12:49am PT
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nice work Tom!
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Slater
Trad climber
Central Coast
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 28, 2011 - 11:38pm PT
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should be back from printers in August at the latest... maybe before?'
stay tuned, will post!
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micronut
Trad climber
fresno, ca
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Jun 29, 2011 - 12:33am PT
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Hooray. Well done man. I look forward to having one in the bookshelf and out on the rock. But I'm not gettin rid of my hand made, signed 1984 guide. 16 pages of history, done on a typewriter.
Mark Haymond gave it to me when I was in high school over 20 years ago......we never met, so he probably doesn't remember signing it. It reads....
"Scott,
Build on the heritage of the past. Go your own way. Put up your own routes wherever you go. Push into new territory. The rock is waiting!"
Mark Haymond
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bhilden
Trad climber
Mountain View, CA
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Jun 29, 2011 - 12:44am PT
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Hopefully, Mark Haymond can back this up, but as I was told, a lot of the early first ascents were accomplished by dropping a 600'+ rope down a proposed route. As the leader climbed up, when he felt the need for a protection bolt, he tied off onto the rope, drilled the bolt and moved on.
I hope this is covered in the guidebook as it is a unique way to establish first ascents and is an interesting commentary on climbing styles.
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Slater
Trad climber
Central Coast
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 29, 2011 - 02:22am PT
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Mark was a huge contributor, contributed a large part of the history section, and some sweet old pics that really added that connection to the past.
He was also the first guy to put in an order for two books, even though we tried to give them away to him for free.
Lots of cool T-house old skool guys, glad to have worked (and sent an FA) with Dwight and to have met some of them. Looking fwd to the book release and meeting the rest of 'em.
Thanks for the quote from your guide, that's rad.
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this just in
climber
north fork
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Jun 29, 2011 - 10:40am PT
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How much is it going to retail for? The watercolors turned out good, nice work Dwight and Tom.
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Ropeboy
Trad climber
Fresno CA
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Jun 29, 2011 - 12:14pm PT
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To bhildon, The top rope bolting stories slowly change over the years. Truth is, no one had a 600 foot rope. We used the 50 meter ropes standard for the day. We would eyeball a line from below. We would rap it, placing bolts where it seemed to make sense. Sometimes it took a couple of trips to the rock to get the route prepared. Then we would cross our fingers and do it from the bottom up, hoping that we had not put in a route that was too hard for us to climb. We considered Tollhouse a practice rock. It was all great fun. - Mark
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mooch
Trad climber
Old Climbers' Home (Adopted)
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Jun 29, 2011 - 12:43pm PT
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Hey Mark! I remember Lenny telling me the same. You heard from him lately? Need to get my Technos over to Barry soon. Was it you who told me you went up to place an additional bolt on Marvin's Mantle a few years back to protect the "ankle breaker"?
Ruffles....now there's a route. Still grainy to this day. I remember taking a skidder to the ground and eventually landed on my back with my head downhill and in the bushes! A few scrapes and scratches but was laughing because Carlos was standing there with his jaw still dropped in shock. LOL!!
A tidbit of T-house trivia........'The Day Carlos Fell To The Earth' (fell soloing up to the Cap Rocks area....all the way to the bottom! Garage sale at Carlos truck that same day....)
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micronut
Trad climber
fresno, ca
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Jun 29, 2011 - 04:54pm PT
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Mooch,
I always thought that was urban legend. Please....gimme the whole story!
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Ropeboy
Trad climber
Fresno CA
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Jun 29, 2011 - 08:24pm PT
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Hi Mooch,
I talked around a bit with other climbers and decided not to add a bolt to Marvin's Mantle. So the crux pitch is still R rated.
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tim_b
Trad climber
Corona, CA
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Jul 11, 2011 - 07:05pm PT
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Tom --
You said you do the mail thing ... send money, and you send the Tollhouse book.
Btw, got an address ?
And how much do I make the check for ?
(you know, stupid little details ...)
 Tim B
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Slater
Trad climber
Central Coast
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 20, 2011 - 08:07pm PT
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Just got my copy in the mail from the printers...
damn it's a nice little guide if I do say so myself!
I think Dwight should be getting these like this week, then off to Fresno REI and book distributors. After I get some boxes I will also sell them from here and mail them out, free shipping ($20).
84 pages
Color
Glossy Cover
Great binding (sturdy)
Title on Spine
It ain't no Ferrari, more like a bitchin' little Mustang.
Built by locals.
Thanks again guys!
Hope you boys like it!
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LuckyNeck
Trad climber
the basement of Lou's Tavern
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Jul 21, 2011 - 08:28pm PT
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I would be happy to send you a check for one of those. Just tell me where.
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P.Rob
Social climber
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Jul 30, 2011 - 04:46pm PT
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I enquired at REI and they were unfamiliar with it and had no listing. Where might one procure a guide at present? As one who in a previous incarnation (mis)spent many days at Tollhouse, I am looking forward to this new and present part of the story. Thank you for your hard work and contribution to the climbing community.
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Slater
Trad climber
Central Coast
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 30, 2011 - 04:53pm PT
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shipment arrives on Aug 4... you'll have to give the system a couple weeks to get moving (boxes unpacked, distributed to distributors, to REI, and local shops).
But August is the month, perfect for fall trips!
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P.Rob
Social climber
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Jul 30, 2011 - 05:04pm PT
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Thank you for your quick reply - I am feeling nostalgic in anticipation. Do you know if any other routes have been established on what we referred to at the time as Fat Andy's Buttress? When Andy Des Jarlis & I established Fat Andy & Attitudes of the People we had done some extensive cleaning on it but never got the opportunity to further develop it. There was decidedly steep and interesting rock here and worth developing
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gizzard
Trad climber
sacrramento
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Jan 26, 2017 - 08:36am PT
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stoked for my 1st romp out to Tollhouse,
anyone been this Jan 2017? Hows the conditions? good to go?
Thanks!
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limpingcrab
Trad climber
the middle of CA
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Jan 26, 2017 - 09:31am PT
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Hasn't rained in a few days so I'm sure it's good to go. Dries really fast. The road might be a little muddy so you might have to walk up the back but it's a short hike either way.
Have fun!
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micronut
Trad climber
Fresno/Clovis, ca
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Jan 26, 2017 - 11:38am PT
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Go git sum!
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gizzard
Trad climber
sacrramento
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Jan 26, 2017 - 12:40pm PT
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awesome possum! keep ya posted on our adventure. stoked!
Thanks for the update
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gizzard
Trad climber
sacrramento
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Jan 27, 2017 - 08:37am PT
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I should have asked before.
Is my 4wd Truck necessary? if I take my 2wd how much longer of a hike is it?
just wondering if its worth driving my gas guzzler 4 hours for just a short section of 4wd.. either way, we are going climbing.
thanks for the tips from this out-a-towner chasing sunny granite goodness in Jan.
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doughnutnational
Gym climber
its nice here in the spring
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Jan 27, 2017 - 08:53am PT
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4 wd is not needed, the main advantage to 4wd is that you could drive to better camping or do a little less walking.
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Nanobody
Trad climber
Fresno, CA
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Jan 27, 2017 - 09:25am PT
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You don;t need 4WD. You can walk up the hill faster than people can drive up it. I have literally walked past trucks trying to navigate the washouts on the way up. It is maybe 5-8 minutes from where you part to the top where you pick up the decent trail to the base.
Only reason to drive up there is if you want to camp
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gizzard
Trad climber
sacrramento
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Jan 27, 2017 - 10:53am PT
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thanks guys sooo much. amazing beta.
really appreciate it.
ROCK IT!
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Radish
Trad climber
SeKi, California
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Jan 27, 2017 - 01:13pm PT
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Cool place to climb with some rich history!
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micronut
Trad climber
Fresno/Clovis, ca
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Jan 27, 2017 - 07:24pm PT
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The steep "washed out " old fire- road with all kinds of heavy ruts has been graded smooth in the past few months or so. It is still very steep but doesn't have the massive, truck swallowing ruts of the good old days.
If you park in the flats long below the first steep climb ( A mile down the dirt road from the pavement) it adds about eight-ten minutes of walking time on. If you make that climb in your truck it gives you a fantastic view and great parking spot on the old hang glider slab.
Many people park on top of the old hang glider launch slab and walk down to the base of the climbs from there. If you want to continue hiking to the top of the main dome and the caprocks feel free to or even take your rig all the way to the top. But it's pretty steep that last bit.
Have fun and post up some photos!
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micronut
Trad climber
Fresno/Clovis, ca
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Tollhouse bump for the upcoming Tollhouse Face-Off this weekend. Fri Sat Sunday. Lots of locals coming out. THE WEATHER IS GONNA BE SPLIITER! Gathering Friday night I believe. Raffle on Saturday afternoon. I'll be filming all weekend with a small crew....shooting a nice little film about Tollhouse, its history, its climbers, its vibe and what it means to all of us who love it. Who's coming?
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| Messages 1 - 35 of total 35 in this topic |
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