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Slater
Trad climber
Central Coast
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Topic Author's Original Post - May 13, 2011 - 11:45pm PT
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It's finished! We're sending it off to the printers.
Tollhouse Rock means so much to so many people, and it's so rich in history, and the climbing is just plain fun. It was a great project to be a part of and I met some really cool people along the way. The guide comes alive with Dwight's artwork and wonderful prose. We added a ton of history and it's full color with some watercolor thrown in to keep it artsy. Here is a peek...
Thank you so much to everyone who helped out, it's a great book and we hope it lives up to your expectations.
Long live the 'house!
-Tom
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socalbolter
Sport climber
Silverado, CA
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May 14, 2011 - 12:07am PT
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Congrats Tom!
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cragnshag
Social climber
san joser
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May 14, 2011 - 12:39am PT
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Good looking watercolor topo there.
Are all the topos watercolor?
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murcy
Gym climber
sanfrancisco
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May 14, 2011 - 01:56am PT
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sweet. first trip there only a few weeks ago. where do i send my box tops?
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JEleazarian
Trad climber
Fresno CA
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May 14, 2011 - 02:42am PT
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I'm looking forward to it, Tom. Thanks.
John
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Texplorer
Trad climber
Sacramento
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May 14, 2011 - 05:03am PT
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How would we go about getting one of these?
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Slater
Trad climber
Central Coast
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Topic Author's Reply - May 14, 2011 - 09:06pm PT
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The local Fresno REI I think is going to carry them.
Maximus Press online and probably other regional climbing stores.
I always do the mail me a check and I'll mail you the book deal as well...
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ODW
Mountain climber
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Jun 28, 2011 - 12:22am PT
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Hey Slater, Whats your address so I can get one of those tollhouse route books. They dont have them at the Fresno Rei yet.
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Roxy
Trad climber
CA Central Coast
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Jun 28, 2011 - 12:49am PT
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nice work Tom!
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Slater
Trad climber
Central Coast
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 28, 2011 - 11:38pm PT
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should be back from printers in August at the latest... maybe before?'
stay tuned, will post!
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micronut
Trad climber
fresno, ca
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Jun 29, 2011 - 12:33am PT
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Hooray. Well done man. I look forward to having one in the bookshelf and out on the rock. But I'm not gettin rid of my hand made, signed 1984 guide. 16 pages of history, done on a typewriter.
Mark Haymond gave it to me when I was in high school over 20 years ago......we never met, so he probably doesn't remember signing it. It reads....
"Scott,
Build on the heritage of the past. Go your own way. Put up your own routes wherever you go. Push into new territory. The rock is waiting!"
Mark Haymond
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bhilden
Trad climber
Mountain View, CA
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Jun 29, 2011 - 12:44am PT
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Hopefully, Mark Haymond can back this up, but as I was told, a lot of the early first ascents were accomplished by dropping a 600'+ rope down a proposed route. As the leader climbed up, when he felt the need for a protection bolt, he tied off onto the rope, drilled the bolt and moved on.
I hope this is covered in the guidebook as it is a unique way to establish first ascents and is an interesting commentary on climbing styles.
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Slater
Trad climber
Central Coast
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 29, 2011 - 02:22am PT
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Mark was a huge contributor, contributed a large part of the history section, and some sweet old pics that really added that connection to the past.
He was also the first guy to put in an order for two books, even though we tried to give them away to him for free.
Lots of cool T-house old skool guys, glad to have worked (and sent an FA) with Dwight and to have met some of them. Looking fwd to the book release and meeting the rest of 'em.
Thanks for the quote from your guide, that's rad.
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this just in
climber
north fork
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Jun 29, 2011 - 10:40am PT
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How much is it going to retail for? The watercolors turned out good, nice work Dwight and Tom.
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Ropeboy
Trad climber
Fresno CA
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Jun 29, 2011 - 12:14pm PT
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To bhildon, The top rope bolting stories slowly change over the years. Truth is, no one had a 600 foot rope. We used the 50 meter ropes standard for the day. We would eyeball a line from below. We would rap it, placing bolts where it seemed to make sense. Sometimes it took a couple of trips to the rock to get the route prepared. Then we would cross our fingers and do it from the bottom up, hoping that we had not put in a route that was too hard for us to climb. We considered Tollhouse a practice rock. It was all great fun. - Mark
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mooch
Trad climber
Old Climbers' Home (Adopted)
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Jun 29, 2011 - 12:43pm PT
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Hey Mark! I remember Lenny telling me the same. You heard from him lately? Need to get my Technos over to Barry soon. Was it you who told me you went up to place an additional bolt on Marvin's Mantle a few years back to protect the "ankle breaker"?
Ruffles....now there's a route. Still grainy to this day. I remember taking a skidder to the ground and eventually landed on my back with my head downhill and in the bushes! A few scrapes and scratches but was laughing because Carlos was standing there with his jaw still dropped in shock. LOL!!
A tidbit of T-house trivia........'The Day Carlos Fell To The Earth' (fell soloing up to the Cap Rocks area....all the way to the bottom! Garage sale at Carlos truck that same day....)
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micronut
Trad climber
fresno, ca
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Jun 29, 2011 - 04:54pm PT
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Mooch,
I always thought that was urban legend. Please....gimme the whole story!
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Ropeboy
Trad climber
Fresno CA
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Jun 29, 2011 - 08:24pm PT
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Hi Mooch,
I talked around a bit with other climbers and decided not to add a bolt to Marvin's Mantle. So the crux pitch is still R rated.
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tim_b
Trad climber
Corona, CA
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Jul 11, 2011 - 07:05pm PT
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Tom --
You said you do the mail thing ... send money, and you send the Tollhouse book.
Btw, got an address ?
And how much do I make the check for ?
(you know, stupid little details ...)
 Tim B
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Slater
Trad climber
Central Coast
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 20, 2011 - 08:07pm PT
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Just got my copy in the mail from the printers...
damn it's a nice little guide if I do say so myself!
I think Dwight should be getting these like this week, then off to Fresno REI and book distributors. After I get some boxes I will also sell them from here and mail them out, free shipping ($20).
84 pages
Color
Glossy Cover
Great binding (sturdy)
Title on Spine
It ain't no Ferrari, more like a bitchin' little Mustang.
Built by locals.
Thanks again guys!
Hope you boys like it!
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