Bolting on stance - ground up - leading

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sac

Trad climber
Sun Coast B.C.
Jun 21, 2013 - 05:04pm PT
g/u adventure @ Khartoum <br/>
g/u adventure @ Khartoum

Credit: sac
Salamanizer

Trad climber
The land of Fruits & Nuts!
Jun 21, 2013 - 05:46pm PT
the most common mess that the GU climber creates is the dead end into a bolt ladder to nowhere..


Got some examples?



I've been stopped dead in my tracks a couple of times on routes I was working on. Hit a tough spot and didn't have the balls or ability to climb through. I left them as open projects and would work on them when I got an inspiration. Eventually I was able to complete every single one. The most recent of which was a project sitting idle for 5 years which had a runnout on difficult terrain I was always unwilling to commit to. Over the years I realized I've developed an ability to drill from increasingly poor stances and found I could actually make use of a particularly bad one. Though it took about 4 hours spread between two days and several dozen falls, I was able to place a bolt where needed to commit to the moves above.

Point is, it may be a blank dead end for now, but eventually you or someone will come along and finish even the most bleak of routes.
Brian in SLC

Social climber
Salt Lake City, UT
Jun 22, 2013 - 08:03am PT
Two pitchs, GU, drilled on lead...fun!

Somewhere in western Utah...photo by EH.
Somewhere in western Utah...photo by EH.
Credit: Brian in SLC
Tfish

Trad climber
La Crescenta, CA
Aug 26, 2013 - 09:56am PT
When the crack ends the drill begins.

Ground up FA up Angeles Crest
Ground up FA up Angeles Crest
Credit: Tfish
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 26, 2013 - 10:11am PT
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=149476&msg=2106130#msg2106130
the most common mess that the GU climber creates is the dead end into a bolt ladder to nowhere

in my experience, the consequences of "uncertainty" is to avoid putting bolts in and just running out the pitch into "X" territory, if the route is worth reporting, you've left a "death route."

the FA is open to all sorts of criticism, failed attempts, trashing up the cliff with dead end lines aka "projects," too much runout, too many bolts... on and on.

the alternatives aren't too good either, such as not reporting routes... which might be best if you can take the criticism when you report that that new n-teenth bolt sport climb saw a previous ascent with no bolts... once you get through the incredulity that it had been done, you get criticized for being reckless...

fact is that few climbers put up FAs and the vast majority that don't fancy themselves credible judges of what constitutes a good climb...



Salamanizer

Trad climber
The land of Fruits & Nuts!
Aug 26, 2013 - 05:39pm PT
^^^^^^^^^

Uhhhhhhh.....
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WHAT!!!???
afcb

Social climber
UK , UT
Aug 26, 2013 - 06:33pm PT
New routing with the kitchen sink.
New routing with the kitchen sink.
Credit: afcb
thebird

Big Wall climber
palm desert, ca.
Aug 26, 2013 - 08:35pm PT
I believe it depends upon certain variable such as steepness; a human cannot stand in balance at more than 82 degree angle, what percentage of the route requires bolts, the skill level the leader and the type of route desired. In the final analysis, does the end justify the means?
Personally I would rather do a route where bolts are in the correct location as apposed to how the bolts are placed. After all subsequent assents don't give a damn how the bolts were placed. There is a fine line between boldness and stupidity as there is between prudence and cowardice.
When sport climbing is the aim, rappel bolting is the game. The other variables being whether power drills are permitted and the quality of the rock.
S.Leeper

Social climber
somewhere that doesnt have anything over 90'
Sep 6, 2013 - 05:28pm PT
bump...the bird has spoken.
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