Bolting on stance - ground up - leading

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Messages 181 - 200 of total 209 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Apr 3, 2013 - 07:53am PT
This thread needs chiseling. lol
guyman

Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
Apr 3, 2013 - 08:51am PT
Hanging on the Tiny Hook and hammering like mad.
Hanging on the Tiny Hook and hammering like mad.
Credit: guyman

This is a climb at Courtwright Reservour, The Gold Standard 5.12+.

Kris, Jan and I did it back in the mid 90's ....

We didn't even consider rap bolting it because it wasn't our style. And the top is way way upthere.

After trying to hook it with normal hooks and failing, Kris came up with the idea of the "thin hook" its not really a hook but rather a squaire edge. If you found the right "dime" edge and you put your weight on it sowley it would hold!

We took many sliders before we got the bolts in and we had a climb that was a huge challenge for all of us - an adventure for sure.

I don't know if it has ever had a second ascent.


I do get upset when I show up at a local climbing place (im thinking texas canyon) and find a brand new 5.10 located right between my favorate two 5.10s that were very close together to begin with, now there are 3 climbs, with the same characteristics within 30 feet.

A public service was performed by shelfless climbers who promptly REMOVED the offending climb.
patrick compton

Trad climber
van
Apr 3, 2013 - 10:57am PT

A public service was performed by shelfless climbers who promptly REMOVED the offending climb.

So a public service is removing something that offends you personally?

Sweet! I'll blow up the local church.
guyman

Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
Apr 3, 2013 - 11:07am PT
Patrick... in short. YES

But seriously... I can't fathom just why somebody would step up to a chunk of stone. Look 6 feet right at climb A, and 6 feet left to climb B and think "I have found my purpose in life - this unique line must GO"

Lame.... IMHO.

It's not a climb you did, right?

but heck lets not derail this climbing topic
patrick compton

Trad climber
van
Apr 3, 2013 - 11:14am PT
Somebody did that for the same reason you put up a climb, then looked 12' left and decided to put in another.

The fact that 'somebody' else decided to chop the line the middle because it was in between their two lines is compeltely arbitrary. If there were no lines, and the middle one went in first, is it then ok to chop the one to either side?

This isn't hijacking the thread at all. Bolting on lead does require skill and balls, but you are still drilling holes and pounding in metal. The impact on the rock is the same.

'You are not a special flower' - Fight Club

... the line you bolted isn't either.
guyman

Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
Apr 3, 2013 - 12:51pm PT
patrick.... First there was a first.

second there was a second

third there was a turd.... right in the middle.

I understand your troll... 100%

But is there room for esthetics????

Mungeclimber

Trad climber
the crowd MUST BE MOCKED...Mocked I tell you.
Apr 3, 2013 - 01:29pm PT
if those bolts are within an arms reach of each of either line. pull and patch, why not?


guyman

Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
Apr 3, 2013 - 01:41pm PT
Munge... you "get it"

tradmanclimbs

Ice climber
Pomfert VT
Apr 3, 2013 - 04:07pm PT
Squeeze jobs suck. if a bolt is close enough to an existing climb to tempt the leader of the existing climb to clip the new bolt that is very poor location for a climb. There is however no majick pass that makes a GU bolt less offensive than a TD bolt if either is poorly placed. A hack job is a hack job regardless of TD or GU. the most common mess that the GU climber creates is the dead end into a bolt ladder to nowhere.. the climbing gets too hard and the great aspirations for a free climb degenerate into an AO bolt ladder. that is ok if the climb eventually goes somwhere interesting but i have seen a few of these that simply petered out and gave up.
Myles Moser

climber
Lone Pine, Ca
Apr 3, 2013 - 05:10pm PT
Wandering on the Central Tower
Wandering on the Central Tower
Credit: Myles Moser


Some times you just gotta' get lost!
rgold

Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
Apr 3, 2013 - 07:19pm PT
How to fail utterly at bolting on stance---ground up---leading (and be schooled by a master): http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/1616302/An-afternoon-with-Kamps
StahlBro

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Apr 3, 2013 - 08:29pm PT
Credit: Todd Gordon
ghostfromthepast

Social climber
oakhurst ca
Apr 24, 2013 - 11:07am PT
your post explains why I consider the dispute over whether I freed Hall of Mirrors utterly absurd. Thanks,Chris Cantwell
larryhorton

Trad climber
NM
Apr 24, 2013 - 05:23pm PT
This post and all the talk of hooks reminds me of the time Pratt told me about a bat hook route he had done on the Mount Davidson cross. This is just a ho hum concrete cross on a hilltop in San Francisco — nothing but 90˚ angles, smooth surface, probably 100 feet high.

The idea of climbing it had immense appeal to a young freak in the late sixties, so I set about creating a couple of bat hooks for the job. As I recall, I started with a Chouinard product — I forget what it was called. A cliffhanger? Something like that…

My metallurgical skills were even more meager than my good sense. I hammered and ground until I had a right angle piece that would fit in a small bolt hole. Looked good to me. And I talked Jeff, a climbing friend of mine, into joining me for the excursion.

My memory of the ‘route’ is that it had four empty bolt holes between bolts. And standing in the top loop of my homespun slings was required to reach each hole. I was always impressed at the notion of drilling a hole from such a stance. But most disconcerting was realizing, at forty feet off the deck, that my bat hooks were bending as I ascended. I had not successfully tempered the steel.

My memory isn’t entirely clear if we finished then or not (more than forty years ago). We definitely got to the top of the arm. I seem to have some recollection of trying it in the dark, also. I do recall that the local constabulary arrived and demanded that we come down, but no arrests or tickets were issued, and that was in broad daylight.

That was my last excursion with hooks. Pratt listened to the story in typical, understated amusement.

All respect to those who place bolts from questionable stances!
Tfish

Trad climber
La Crescenta, CA
Jun 16, 2013 - 07:13pm PT
I just bolted a fun 10a ground up and put all 5 bolts in from stances. So rewarding.
Bolting on lead
Bolting on lead
Credit: Tfish
Tfish

Trad climber
La Crescenta, CA
Jun 21, 2013 - 11:53am PT
2 more routes!

Bolting from a pumpy undercling
Bolting from a pumpy undercling
Credit: Tfish

I forgot my blow tube
I forgot my blow tube
Credit: Tfish
Ksolem

Trad climber
Monrovia, California
Jun 21, 2013 - 01:35pm PT
the most common mess that the GU climber creates is the dead end into a bolt ladder to nowhere..

Got some examples?

When I arrived in Ca in the early 1980's the SoCal areas like Josh, Idyllwild, The Needles, etc., were meccas of ground up climbing, and bolting from stances on lead. I cannot think of one such "mess" as you describe in any of these areas. There are a couple of bolt ladders in Josh but they were not the result of an attempted free climb.

Bolting on lead does require skill and balls, but you are still drilling holes and pounding in metal. The impact on the rock is the same.

Bolting on lead means less impact both in terms of the typical # of bolts on a route and the # of routes which get done.
mucci

Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
Jun 21, 2013 - 02:00pm PT
the most common mess that the GU climber creates is the dead end into a bolt ladder to nowhere..

Never happened to me, or anybody I climb with that goes strictly ground up.

I see this as when a climber attempts to bolt beyond his/her capabilities (physical ability, technical ability, and bolting ability). OR did not do a good job scoping the line, and being able to decipher the stone before the first bolt is sunk.

Stay within your limits, master the art of GU.


Mungeclimber

Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
Jun 21, 2013 - 04:07pm PT
Tfish! Looks steep and sik!

Nice job
rSin

Trad climber
calif
Jun 21, 2013 - 04:18pm PT
can think of a few rap bolted routes that deaded ended though...
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