Slab Appreciation thread

Search
Go

Discussion Topic

Return to Forum List
This thread has been locked
Messages 21 - 40 of total 100 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
Feb 5, 2019 - 10:55am PT
Holy Biotch bump from 2011!


choss slab going in with long modern bolts.

NutAgain!

Trad climber
South Pasadena, CA
Feb 5, 2019 - 10:56am PT
There are a variety of good reports from the ST olden days about Glacier Apron:

 http://www.supertopo.com/tr/Goodrich-to-the-Oasis-Trip-Report/t413n.html
 http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/1315256/Has-anyone-climbed-Green-Dragon-to-Mr-Natural-lately
-http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/2310692/Glacier-Point-Apron-appreciation
 http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/2883334/Getting-down-from-the-Oasis
 http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/1568902/Tightrope-Clevenger-and-Carters-Apron-Madness-1975
 http://www.supertopo.com/tr/Goodrich-Pinnacle-right-side/t11936n.html
 Coonyard Pinnacle - Frequent Flyer Miles http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=988294



I thought I had posted a report from le_bruce and me on Goodrich Pinnacle in wet drippy conditions... can' find it. I'll see if I can dig up the pics.

edit: here are a few











NutAgain!

Trad climber
South Pasadena, CA
Feb 5, 2019 - 11:16am PT
And some Parkline Slabs love:
http://www.supertopo.com/tr/TR-2011-02-Parkline-Slabs/t10972n.html


mouse from merced

Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
Feb 5, 2019 - 12:52pm PT
Prime climbs here for the older couch inhabitant.

Up & down & down a beer.

Repeat as often as possible.
perswig

climber
Feb 5, 2019 - 02:41pm PT
Killing me!

Nice shots.
Dale
jogill

climber
Colorado
Feb 5, 2019 - 03:43pm PT
Before the first outstanding British boulderer, Oscar Eckenstein, demonstrated the notion of balance climbing on steep slabs, it was common practice to lean into the rock and try to catch part of one's clothing on irregularities. Tweed jackets were popular.




Eckenstein, in the late 1800s shocked Geoffrey Winthrop Young and others by carefully balancing on tiny holds on his eponymous boulder in Wales.
StahlBro

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Feb 5, 2019 - 04:41pm PT
tradmanclimbs

Ice climber
Pomfert VT
Feb 5, 2019 - 05:05pm PT
rogers rock NY
Ghost

climber
A long way from where I started
Feb 5, 2019 - 06:25pm PT
Here's a slab-climbing story for you. I posted it way back in the distant past, but I think it fits in here pretty well because the absolute, hands-down, no-argument, gifted-beyond-belief climbing I ever personally witnessed was on a slab at Washington Pass on North Early Winter Spire.

We'd climbed most of the West Face, and I had just joined Mari at her belay after we'd struggled up the 5.11 tips pitch when we heard a voice below us: "Do you mind if we climb through?"

We looked down and saw a climber starting the pitch we had just bumbled our way up, sort of hanging out as if he were on easy ground.

The hanging belay we were occupying was crowded with just the two of us, but we weren’t in a hurry, and he was obviously climbing ten times faster than us, so we said “Sure, go ahead.” We figured he'd crowd in beside us and bring up his partner, but no, he sauntered part way up the tips crack, but well below us he stepped out onto the face, bypassed our hanging stance, and then moved back into the crack well above us.

Using the crack on that pitch is 10d/11a. So what would the difficulty be if you abandoned it and headed out into no-man's land? I have no idea. Watching this guy (Viren Perumal, we found out much later), it looked like about 5.2. No holds. No pro. No problem. He simply floated by, chatting with us as if we were all sitting on the outdoor deck at our favorite pub. The rope dangling into the distance beneath him.

It had to be at least 12.hard. Maybe harder. There were no holds -- it was pure slab -- and he didn't even notice. And it's not like he was familiar with the place. This was his first climb in the Northwest. His partner (and fiancee) followed the same path, not quite as easily as he did, but not really showing any signs of struggle either.

I've roped up with some pretty good climbers over the years. Climbers who climbed 5.14 before there was 5.15. Climbers who had set speed records on El Cap. But this was like having god draw back the curtain and say "Take a look at what it's really about."

I know slabs aren't everyone's cup of climbing tea, and it's cool to watch Adam Ondra screaming his way up some overhanging crimpfest. But you can at least see the holds he's crimping or palming. But what we saw that day was in another realm entirely.
perswig

climber
Feb 6, 2019 - 04:23pm PT
Archived this after someone posted it here on ST.
One of my favorite climbing vids.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FgjoFv33kKk

Dale
NutAgain!

Trad climber
South Pasadena, CA
Feb 6, 2019 - 04:38pm PT
Cool story ghost.

Not sure if "Poker Face" counts as a slab, since it's really about crimping little flakes. I remember thinking the bolts looked like a ladder when I was belaying le_bruce. But when I followed they seemed a lot farther apart:


Here are a few from Arches Terrace, which is a proper smearing slab much of the way:
mike m

Trad climber
black hills
Feb 8, 2019 - 09:50pm PT
south Platte slab courtesy Bruno
Ksolem

Trad climber
Monrovia, California
Feb 8, 2019 - 10:32pm PT
Courtright Reservoir has some first class slabbing. This one's on Power Dome, I think it's "Go Runout and Pray"


Rico Miledi took the pick. Yeah I know, I probably shouldn't have both ropes clipped there...
tuolumne_tradster

Trad climber
Leading Edge of North American Plate
Feb 9, 2019 - 08:07am PT



Ksolem

Trad climber
Monrovia, California
Feb 9, 2019 - 09:46am PT
Another Courtright classic. It's a slab until it's not. Carson Kodas Arete.

Photo by Maya Shimoguchi (using a disposable camera.)

johntp

Trad climber
Punter
Feb 9, 2019 - 05:17pm PT
Wish I had some photos from the dayz at Quartz in OK. Most runout slabs I've seen. More runout than Suicide.

Maybe BASE104 has some.
StahlBro

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Feb 9, 2019 - 05:30pm PT
bob

climber
Feb 9, 2019 - 05:58pm PT
Lyme Line on Fairview Dome
Ksolem

Trad climber
Monrovia, California
Feb 10, 2019 - 02:10pm PT
Laeger and I put up a route at Patterson Bluff on a face called the Wedding Wall (no idea why.) It was, as Moose describes, entirely devoid of holds. It was four pitches of that, with a lot of this low angle 5.11. Quite annoying really. The angle was low enough that at the belays it seemed like you could just un-clip and walk off to the side, of course that would not have ended well.
StahlBro

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Feb 10, 2019 - 04:33pm PT
I have done a couple of pitches of continuous 5.9 with almost no hands where my calves were screaming for mercy. Good times.
Messages 21 - 40 of total 100 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Return to Forum List
 
Our Guidebooks
Check 'em out!
SuperTopo Guidebooks


Try a free sample topo!

 
SuperTopo on the Web

Recent Route Beta