Slab Appreciation thread

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k-man

Gym climber
SCruz
Topic Author's Original Post - May 9, 2011 - 03:01pm PT
This is a kind of a shout-out to all the folks who've been putting in hard work rebolting the beautiful slab lines in Yosemite. Not wanting to list the names of all those who've worked on the lines, I will say the list wouldn't be complete without starting with Roger's. Here's to you Bro!

I've lurked after the rebolting efforts, seeing how the old lines felt with new hardware. What a Pleasure, climbing on Middle, GPA, and the Arches Terrace. YeeHaw that slab stuff is fun. While you might find yourself looking at a slider, it's nice to not worry about falling onto lonely and loose Leeper hanger, hanging off a bent 1/4" button head.

Anybody got any pictures of what I'm talking about, climbing these slab climbs?


ALSO: Huge shout out to those who put these babies up.
JEleazarian

Trad climber
Fresno CA
May 9, 2011 - 03:30pm PT
Hear, hear! There have been threads showing rebolting on the Apron a while back, and I've certainly seen (and clipped into) the results of the ASCA efforts all over. Thank you all.

John
bluering

Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
May 9, 2011 - 07:36pm PT
I love the slab...
213

climber
Where the Froude number often >> 1
May 9, 2011 - 08:10pm PT
Not the Valley, but SLAB nonetheless!!!!

Brother Joe on Rocco's:


<3 slab
Mighty Hiker

climber
Vancouver, B.C.
May 9, 2011 - 08:20pm PT
http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/219262/Difficulty-of-Slab-Climbs

http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/287643/1970s-Bolt-protected-run-out-slab-climbing
Brokedownclimber

Trad climber
Douglas, WY
May 9, 2011 - 08:26pm PT
Here's some Colorado slab:


And more!


The Dome in the South Platte offers GREAT slab climbing without the rockfall of the Apron.


ASCA recently replaced all the bolts on the first 3 pitches and half of the original 14 on the final 5.10b lead.
Ŗ ő ō T « H

Boulder climber
ne'erĖdoĖwell
Feb 3, 2019 - 11:43pm PT
[Click to View YouTube Video]
Gary

Social climber
Desolation Basin, Calif.
Feb 4, 2019 - 06:01am PT
God invented slab so old fat guys can continue to climb.
mike m

Trad climber
black hills
Feb 4, 2019 - 02:48pm PT
Steep slab
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Feb 4, 2019 - 02:51pm PT
Slabs...sorry guys, canít go there. I climb them when they get in the way on a multi pitch...not with any grace, mind you.
johntp

Trad climber
Punter
Feb 4, 2019 - 03:08pm PT
jeff constine

Trad climber
Ao Namao
Feb 4, 2019 - 06:23pm PT
Dameat and Levy INYO kern wall.
Gary

Social climber
Desolation Basin, Calif.
Feb 5, 2019 - 07:12am PT
Slabs...sorry guys, canít go there. I climb them when they get in the way on a multi pitch...not with any grace, mind you.

Different strokes for different folks, that's what makes the world an interesting place. I always liked slab. Especially way out on the sharp end. Talk about feeding the rat!
thebravecowboy

climber
The Good Places
Feb 5, 2019 - 07:14am PT
strong legs weak fingers bump

Ksolem

Trad climber
Monrovia, California
Feb 5, 2019 - 07:22am PT
I've always liked my slab on the steepish side, where there has to be some sort of features resembling holds, not just undulations, shallow scoops and sticky spots. The first pitch of Valhalla is a good example of this type of slab, as are Count Dracula (Josh) and several things at Dome Rock.
Nick Danger

Ice climber
Arvada, CO
Feb 5, 2019 - 08:36am PT
The older I get the slabbier I become. I have always loved slabs, and the South Platte is my local slab nirvana. Topographic oceans, bolts to nowhere, bolts to somewhere, what fabulous memories. Helen's Dome is just great for some steeper slabaciousness.

Thanks for starting this thread.
telemon01

Trad climber
Montana
Feb 5, 2019 - 09:00am PT
In the early 80ís, as a new climber in the Adirondacks, I got my start on slabs as a matter of circumstance. Chapel Pond Slab, Poko Moonshine- these were the areas in the guidebook that had the 5.6ís and 5.7ís. Since we started leading right from the start we sought out the easier climbs. They were always run out but we didnít know any better and up we went. We never fell and eventually progressed through the grades and as we built up our racks we climbed more cracks and less slab.

Fast forward a couple years to my first trip to Joshua Tree. Same pattern- find the easy routes in the guidebook and start there- Echo Rock served up fun spicy slab climbing. We progressed to the 9ía and 10ís, and I remember Sidewinder being fun and exciting.

Then on to Yosemite for the first time in 1987. We checked out Glacier Point Apron and had fun on the polished granite. Even took a few harmless sliders. I went back the next year with some friends from Colorado and mentioned Glacier Point Apron. Thatís when one of my buddies turned to me and said ďGlacier Point Apron!? Alan Lester calls that Fag Rock!!Ē

There went my affinity for slab... which is too bad because I always found that type of climbing to be fun. Oh man !! Now however as a wizened adult I can venture onto all sorts of slab and though I feel a twinge of self - consciousness I still have a good time.
telemon01

Trad climber
Montana
Feb 5, 2019 - 09:05am PT
Zoltani

Trad climber
LV, NV
Feb 5, 2019 - 10:35am PT
Zoltani

Trad climber
LV, NV
Feb 5, 2019 - 10:39am PT
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
Feb 5, 2019 - 10:55am PT
Holy Biotch bump from 2011!


choss slab going in with long modern bolts.

NutAgain!

Trad climber
South Pasadena, CA
Feb 5, 2019 - 10:56am PT
There are a variety of good reports from the ST olden days about Glacier Apron:

 http://www.supertopo.com/tr/Goodrich-to-the-Oasis-Trip-Report/t413n.html
 http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/1315256/Has-anyone-climbed-Green-Dragon-to-Mr-Natural-lately
-http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/2310692/Glacier-Point-Apron-appreciation
 http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/2883334/Getting-down-from-the-Oasis
 http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/1568902/Tightrope-Clevenger-and-Carters-Apron-Madness-1975
 http://www.supertopo.com/tr/Goodrich-Pinnacle-right-side/t11936n.html
 Coonyard Pinnacle - Frequent Flyer Miles http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=988294



I thought I had posted a report from le_bruce and me on Goodrich Pinnacle in wet drippy conditions... can' find it. I'll see if I can dig up the pics.

edit: here are a few











NutAgain!

Trad climber
South Pasadena, CA
Feb 5, 2019 - 11:16am PT
And some Parkline Slabs love:
http://www.supertopo.com/tr/TR-2011-02-Parkline-Slabs/t10972n.html


mouse from merced

Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
Feb 5, 2019 - 12:52pm PT
Prime climbs here for the older couch inhabitant.

Up & down & down a beer.

Repeat as often as possible.
perswig

climber
Feb 5, 2019 - 02:41pm PT
Killing me!

Nice shots.
Dale
jogill

climber
Colorado
Feb 5, 2019 - 03:43pm PT
Before the first outstanding British boulderer, Oscar Eckenstein, demonstrated the notion of balance climbing on steep slabs, it was common practice to lean into the rock and try to catch part of one's clothing on irregularities. Tweed jackets were popular.




Eckenstein, in the late 1800s shocked Geoffrey Winthrop Young and others by carefully balancing on tiny holds on his eponymous boulder in Wales.
StahlBro

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Feb 5, 2019 - 04:41pm PT
tradmanclimbs

Ice climber
Pomfert VT
Feb 5, 2019 - 05:05pm PT
rogers rock NY
Ghost

climber
A long way from where I started
Feb 5, 2019 - 06:25pm PT
Here's a slab-climbing story for you. I posted it way back in the distant past, but I think it fits in here pretty well because the absolute, hands-down, no-argument, gifted-beyond-belief climbing I ever personally witnessed was on a slab at Washington Pass on North Early Winter Spire.

We'd climbed most of the West Face, and I had just joined Mari at her belay after we'd struggled up the 5.11 tips pitch when we heard a voice below us: "Do you mind if we climb through?"

We looked down and saw a climber starting the pitch we had just bumbled our way up, sort of hanging out as if he were on easy ground.

The hanging belay we were occupying was crowded with just the two of us, but we werenít in a hurry, and he was obviously climbing ten times faster than us, so we said ďSure, go ahead.Ē We figured he'd crowd in beside us and bring up his partner, but no, he sauntered part way up the tips crack, but well below us he stepped out onto the face, bypassed our hanging stance, and then moved back into the crack well above us.

Using the crack on that pitch is 10d/11a. So what would the difficulty be if you abandoned it and headed out into no-man's land? I have no idea. Watching this guy (Viren Perumal, we found out much later), it looked like about 5.2. No holds. No pro. No problem. He simply floated by, chatting with us as if we were all sitting on the outdoor deck at our favorite pub. The rope dangling into the distance beneath him.

It had to be at least 12.hard. Maybe harder. There were no holds -- it was pure slab -- and he didn't even notice. And it's not like he was familiar with the place. This was his first climb in the Northwest. His partner (and fiancee) followed the same path, not quite as easily as he did, but not really showing any signs of struggle either.

I've roped up with some pretty good climbers over the years. Climbers who climbed 5.14 before there was 5.15. Climbers who had set speed records on El Cap. But this was like having god draw back the curtain and say "Take a look at what it's really about."

I know slabs aren't everyone's cup of climbing tea, and it's cool to watch Adam Ondra screaming his way up some overhanging crimpfest. But you can at least see the holds he's crimping or palming. But what we saw that day was in another realm entirely.
perswig

climber
Feb 6, 2019 - 04:23pm PT
Archived this after someone posted it here on ST.
One of my favorite climbing vids.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FgjoFv33kKk

Dale
NutAgain!

Trad climber
South Pasadena, CA
Feb 6, 2019 - 04:38pm PT
Cool story ghost.

Not sure if "Poker Face" counts as a slab, since it's really about crimping little flakes. I remember thinking the bolts looked like a ladder when I was belaying le_bruce. But when I followed they seemed a lot farther apart:


Here are a few from Arches Terrace, which is a proper smearing slab much of the way:
mike m

Trad climber
black hills
Feb 8, 2019 - 09:50pm PT
south Platte slab courtesy Bruno
Ksolem

Trad climber
Monrovia, California
Feb 8, 2019 - 10:32pm PT
Courtright Reservoir has some first class slabbing. This one's on Power Dome, I think it's "Go Runout and Pray"


Rico Miledi took the pick. Yeah I know, I probably shouldn't have both ropes clipped there...
tuolumne_tradster

Trad climber
Leading Edge of North American Plate
Feb 9, 2019 - 08:07am PT



Ksolem

Trad climber
Monrovia, California
Feb 9, 2019 - 09:46am PT
Another Courtright classic. It's a slab until it's not. Carson Kodas Arete.

Photo by Maya Shimoguchi (using a disposable camera.)

johntp

Trad climber
Punter
Feb 9, 2019 - 05:17pm PT
Wish I had some photos from the dayz at Quartz in OK. Most runout slabs I've seen. More runout than Suicide.

Maybe BASE104 has some.
StahlBro

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Feb 9, 2019 - 05:30pm PT
bob

climber
Feb 9, 2019 - 05:58pm PT
Lyme Line on Fairview Dome
Ksolem

Trad climber
Monrovia, California
Feb 10, 2019 - 02:10pm PT
Laeger and I put up a route at Patterson Bluff on a face called the Wedding Wall (no idea why.) It was, as Moose describes, entirely devoid of holds. It was four pitches of that, with a lot of this low angle 5.11. Quite annoying really. The angle was low enough that at the belays it seemed like you could just un-clip and walk off to the side, of course that would not have ended well.
StahlBro

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Feb 10, 2019 - 04:33pm PT
I have done a couple of pitches of continuous 5.9 with almost no hands where my calves were screaming for mercy. Good times.
tuolumne_tradster

Trad climber
Leading Edge of North American Plate
Feb 10, 2019 - 05:52pm PT
Looking down from the 2nd pitch on Grand Central North Buttress Cathedral Peak

August West

Trad climber
Where the wind blows strange
Feb 10, 2019 - 10:52pm PT
While you might find yourself looking at a slider, it's nice to not worry about falling onto lonely and loose Leeper hanger, hanging off a bent 1/4" button head.

I might have missed this thread the first time around. But replacing those bolts is going to take the adventure climbing out of the apron.

I have vague nightmares of wandering around somewhere between Monday morning slab and the oasis. Trying to locate/decide what crappy bolt to belay off of.

If that rusty pin, earlier pic, on Goodrich right is the one I think it is, I have more specific nightmares of being 100 feet runout on it when I didn't realize the bolted line was off to the right. And that was when I wasn't a very confident 5.9 slab climber.
mouse from merced

Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
Feb 11, 2019 - 03:00am PT
Merced R. canyon, from near the Generator.
bbbeans

Trad climber
Feb 12, 2019 - 04:53am PT

Above Photo: Goodrich Pinnacle, right.

"First ascent: Royal Robbins with his wife, liz and T.M. Herbert, 1964. "The problems are challenging, but never harrowing. And, although one must risk a long fall in two places, it's not a death-defying matter. The result of a slip in these places would be 30 to 50 feet of rolling and bouncing down smooth granite slabs" - R.R. "


tuolumne_tradster

Trad climber
Leading Edge of North American Plate
Feb 12, 2019 - 09:01am PT
Scanned slide from the pre-digital archive, Table of Contents, Sept 1988


Cornucopia, Photo by Eric Collins

Off White

climber
Tenino, WA
Feb 12, 2019 - 10:16am PT
That picture of Cornucopia reminds me that yes, Darrington is noteworthy for the slab aficionado.





Off White

climber
Tenino, WA
Feb 12, 2019 - 10:19am PT
Oh, and here's a shot of slab mecca

tuolumne_tradster

Trad climber
Leading Edge of North American Plate
Feb 12, 2019 - 08:16pm PT

perswig

climber
Feb 13, 2019 - 03:16am PT

Dale

mouse from merced

Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
Feb 13, 2019 - 05:02am PT
TY, Throwpie.
sheepdog

Trad climber
just over the hill
Feb 13, 2019 - 06:52am PT
from the wayback machine

tuolumne_tradster finishing Crest Jewell
mouse from merced

Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
Feb 13, 2019 - 06:59am PT
^^^^Most excellent!
--Wild Stallions
tuolumne_tradster

Trad climber
Leading Edge of North American Plate
Feb 13, 2019 - 09:15am PT
Thanks for posting that Sheepdog...we had a lot of fun that day.

Here's a scanned slide of you on the Apron from the pre-digital archive. Not sure if this is Sailin' Shoes or Ochre Fields? We were with Eric...he would know what route this is...

mouse from merced

Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
Feb 13, 2019 - 09:37am PT
A thread from "Our Wee Powder," a slabby if ever there was one.

Love ya, Powder Girl!

http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=2633812&msg=2633812#msg2633812

couchmaster

climber

Jun 3, 2015 - 06:52am PT

Thanks Clint and Roger for replacing all those bolts on Lucifers! Coonyead to the Oasis has 2 bolt anchors each pitch now Karl. Fun route.

It's been years since I've done Lucifers, although it use to be a Glacier point fav getting there via the Point Beyond/Angels Approach way and I did it all the time. It was my most liked long Apron route. Only tried it to the Oasis once though, a stupidity which was never repeated. The old Meyers book listed a pitch someplace above Lucifers as "5.7", but it seemed harder than any of the others below which were clocking 5.9. (Meyers also listed the fist pitch of Reg NW face of half dome as 5.9, and it seemed hard until the next guide came out and called it 5.11) Coupled with being @ 60-80' from the anchor with no pro between you. Partner and I were both getting up hard 5.10 slabs at the time, and although we both tried it neither of us had the stones to pull the moves. Neither of us thought we were on route, but now I'm not so sure. It was along downclimb for us both, and we had unwisely chosen to climb that day with only one rope as we'd "heard" from a friend confident there was a new single rope rap from the Oasis. It was pretty knarley sh#t getting back to dirt without 2 ropes on hand, and rapping off single 1/4" bolts is not something I suggest for anyone.
Ksolem

Trad climber
Monrovia, California
Feb 13, 2019 - 10:21am PT
Here's one from Joshua Tree bitd. Anyone I.D. the route?

bob

climber
Feb 13, 2019 - 10:54am PT
^^^^^^^ Sexy Sade ^^^^^^ to try and answer Ksolem

Ksolem

Trad climber
Monrovia, California
Feb 13, 2019 - 12:03pm PT
Bob nails it.
micronut

Trad climber
Fresno/Clovis, ca
Feb 13, 2019 - 01:18pm PT
Rad thread. Nice shots Bob.

Here's a contribution or two.

Tollhouse Rock near Fresno. My favorite crag on earth.


And another. From my days living in the South.


Chris McNamara

SuperTopo staff member
Feb 21, 2019 - 12:06pm PT
Wonder what the hardest slab is anyone has ridden a bike up or down?

Here is one from near Tahoe. 5.0+

crackedribs

Trad climber
Portland, OR
Feb 24, 2019 - 08:49am PT
divad

Trad climber
wmass
Feb 24, 2019 - 08:56am PT
Whitehorse Ledge, NH
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Feb 24, 2019 - 11:02am PT
My buddy John Fowler (aka Da Magnus) risked it all on a Curry Cruiser launching from the rope up spot for the Water Cracks on Lembert. A committed rush monster, he went on to lead a productive and decidedly saner life therefter. LOL
Mike Bolte

Trad climber
Planet Earth
Feb 24, 2019 - 11:45am PT
so that story is true. With the years of telling, it had grown to having biked down the full Werner's Wiggle face.

This thread mentions two routes I have not thought about in years. Silent Running at Darrington is a classic classic. One of the lower pitches is unrelenting moves from one slightly-less steep spot on the wall to another. Back in the early 1980s it was also a bit lichen covered in spots. Very tenuous for a whole pitch. And Table of Contents up in the Meadows was one of those climbs where I said to myself "if I get off this alive, I'm giving away all my gear and never climbing again". There are a couple of spots where you just are not sure if the feet are going to hold till you stand up.
Sierra Ledge Rat

Mountain climber
Old and Broken Down in Appalachia
Feb 24, 2019 - 11:55am PT

I did a lot of free-soloing on the slabs of Glacier Point Apron, and slabs in the South Platte.

shylock

Social climber
mb
Feb 24, 2019 - 11:59am PT
interesting question about the bike possibilities..

Off White

climber
Tenino, WA
Feb 24, 2019 - 01:51pm PT
SLR, that's Truckin' Drive, Rawl Drive takes the tongue to the left of the climbers in your picture.

Reilly

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
Feb 26, 2019 - 10:31pm PT
Mike Bolte

Trad climber
Planet Earth
Feb 26, 2019 - 11:43pm PT
I think OffWhite is Right.

I backed off of Rawl Drive twice. That is some very slick rock and a nasty fall.

Now Truckin' Drive is a different game. Lots of fun.

But, hat's off to Patio solo...

perswig

climber
Feb 27, 2019 - 04:18am PT
But, hat's off to Patio solo...

Ah, but he's got a nice snowpack to land on, and it probably cover up the sit-start. (chuckle)


I remember this being a big deal:
https://www.tetongravity.com/forums/showthread.php/108386-Whitehorse-in-North-Conway-has-been-slayed

http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/513273/a-ski-descent-of-Whitehorse-Ledge-North-Conway-NH

Dale
tuolumne_tradster

Trad climber
Leading Edge of North American Plate
Feb 27, 2019 - 07:01am PT

DanMerrick

Social climber
FKA Banquo from Mo' Hill, CA
Feb 27, 2019 - 07:59am PT
A DAMMERR at work.

wstmrnclmr

Trad climber
Bishop
Feb 27, 2019 - 09:47am PT
Since Bob posted..........
[photo[photoid=553783

and before you start posting your photos of hooked 5.12+ power drilled monuments I offer this for consideration:
A not very good photo of an important event. Was it Mikey Schaefer who said one canít on-site FA harder then 5.11c slab? Right where Kurt Smith left it with ďBurning down the houseĒ (unrepeated) before he jumped ship to sport? Here, Myles Moser has just placed a stance drilled 1/4Ēer and will proceed to pull the roof from glassy nubins above on-site to the tune of 5.11d plus decades after sport climbing had buried the o.s.-g.u.- no hooks, no power game. Easily the hardest onsite FFA of slab Iíve ever seen........
perswig

climber
Feb 27, 2019 - 10:14am PT
^^
Excellent!
Dale
Off White

climber
Tenino, WA
Feb 27, 2019 - 11:10am PT
Wow, what a great set of photos wstrnmclmrrrsir
Ksolem

Trad climber
Monrovia, California
Feb 27, 2019 - 01:10pm PT
Was it Mikey Schaefer who said one canít on-site FA harder then 5.11c slab?

I guess Ron Carson didn't get the memo ;_)
wstmrnclmr

Trad climber
Bishop
Feb 27, 2019 - 01:16pm PT
Thus the question mark. Ron Carson hookless by hand from stance on-site? Awesome! True, sometimes 12 can be found/ climbed on-site above a good stance hand drilled. But rare to find stances followed by hard slab. Myles found it and so did Ron.
johntp

Trad climber
Punter
Feb 27, 2019 - 02:39pm PT
We need Base104 to post up with Quartz photos. I don't have any. Climbing at Quartz is more runout than Suicide.
Don Paul

Social climber
Washington DC
Feb 27, 2019 - 04:25pm PT
The picture of a bike on a slab is nothing compared to the Utah trails. I tried the Slickrock trail in Moab and had to walk the bike up the steep climbs. Much harder than what you find in CO.
aldude

climber
Monument Manor
Feb 27, 2019 - 06:08pm PT
Onsight,stanced :
Tahoe - New Blood,Pieshop...12a
The Arena,Horsetail Falls...12a
Tuolumne - Testify,Marioulumne Dome...12b
Yosemite - Gnar Gnar,Middle Cathedral.12a

I'm sure others have proven Mikey mistaken
Kurt Smith and I established Grace Under Pressure in the Meadows in 86'...12a.
rmuir

Social climber
From the Time Before the Rocks Cooled.
Feb 27, 2019 - 06:58pm PT
wstmrnclmr

Trad climber
Bishop
Feb 27, 2019 - 08:39pm PT
Like I said, a question mark and Iím going on possibly, flawed memory of the quote which I think I read here somewhere. Maybe MS will put me in my place.......At any rate, good to see the pics because some may have disappeared along with deleted threads. Had an email exchange with KS about ď Grace under PressureĒ which is a cool looking line and glad to hear it come up. It is still one of the few left on Stately ( or TM for that matter)that hasnít been rebolted (at least as of last summer)yet and Kurt said he thought it hadnít had a second ascent yet. I got a bit excited to revive it but one of TMís slabmasters told me heíd done the second. There it sits waiting for those who still like to climb over old bolts and awaits replacement. Cool Aldude! Thanks for the history, the best thing about this place. I wish I were there to bare witness and participate when this was the game.
henny

Social climber
The Past
Feb 27, 2019 - 08:47pm PT
Onsight stance drilling FAs harder than 11c - as aldude points out, can be and does get done. I don't think it's really that rare.

Perhaps there are more pertinent factors than pure difficulty?

Compare a 12b/c short crux that has a good stance right before it on an otherwise easier route to a continuous 40m pitch with the biggest holds only a sprinkling of 1/4" and few moves under 11a or over 12a.

Which is the harder GU onsight FA?

On one if you're good at bouldering you may well be home free at 12b/c. The other... you're in for some real work if it's a true step off the ground and go until it's done, without taints.

Seems silly to take any number and make it into some kind of holy grail whereafter GU onsight FA can't be done. Too many variables from the route characteristics to the climbers involved.

Edit: "GU onsight" sounds kind of redundant but I guess it still makes contextual sense - there's a difference between plain "GU" and "GU onsight". But what's the alternative to GU? "TD onsight FA"? That makes no sense. So maybe using "onsight" is enough since by definition it implies GU and excludes TD. This is getting too deep.
wstmrnclmr

Trad climber
Bishop
Feb 27, 2019 - 09:06pm PT
^^^^^^ absolutely agree. Continuous stance drilling by hand on sustained climbing is hard, regardless of numbers. I think #ís left from then represent maybe an average of the difficulty back then and of course the yds system may have changed too (at least between sport and how yds was originally used)? The numbers for me are just that, a measurement and they seem to have averaged out fairly well, at least in TM and the Valley as to what climbing you can expect with any given climb from that era. But I think when sport climbing hit, it caused/influenced changed yds numbers ? It always interested me when the Valley climbing scene was put down as being behind the times in the 80ís when it seemed that the games were just different . Climbs like Southern Belle etc. remain to show us that difference. How many have climbed it? Yes there are those still climbing g.u.-on-site by hand from stances but power and larger numbers are hard to pass up. I would rather leave numbers of any FA I put up for others to decide but people want to know what to expect. Thatís if you care or not if people repeat them. But love to hear the history. Thatís why so many question marks. So someone will answer what I donít know.
aldude

climber
Monument Manor
Feb 27, 2019 - 09:57pm PT
Sometimes the stances are the crux !
wstmrnclmr

Trad climber
Bishop
Feb 27, 2019 - 10:58pm PT
^^^^^^There it is! We get caught up in numbers when they have nothing to do with it. I would say that stances are not just sometimes ďthe cruxĒ, theyíre everything. Thatís the game! Your just trying to survive from stance to stance and whatís in between is just trying to get there. Numbers are the last thing your thinking about. Which goes to what henny said. ďIf itís a true step off and goĒ..... Lots of facets to it but what it really comes down to is stances. Theyíre linked islands of survival and your navigating uncharted waters to link them. Youíve cast off into outer space, into the unknown. Theyíre the decider in the progression. Numbers and ego disappear because your just trying to survive and thatís the beauty of that game. Numbers are for after and only enter into it when/if you want to share a partiality of that experience because no-one can repeat the initial experience nor put a number to it. Numbers are a communal bi-product and afterthought.
bob

climber
Mar 3, 2019 - 11:35am PT
Nice thread. Great pics Tony. The commentary has been entertaining for sure.

I just returned from a southern AZ exploratory mission that lasted the whole week. We saw some great possibilities, as well as some great let downs that were exciting possibilities. Good times.

So, yesterday I started up what ended as being an easier 5.10 route that I was on lead establishing. I had the intention (and followed through with it) of bolting it on lead from stances without hanging. (With a power drill legally. The horror!) My ego demanded that I follow that particular style of FA.

After drilling the third bolt I stepped up on a hold and blew the bolt hole out with my tube thingy. As I was stepping back down to the bigger stance from which I was to install the bolt from, the foot hold I was depending on blew. Thus it was to be. To the deck I went. I havenít hit the deck since 93í.

My back is not what it was the day before but I will mend. That said, I am now in a place where I am questioning why the hell I was doing what I was doing the way I was doing it.

My mind is now thinking hard about this experience and Iím no stranger to putting it on the line FA stancedrilling style with hand drills etc.

I just figured it out actually! I had to pay up for using a power drill.

Peace out ST. Keep it rolling!
Ksolem

Trad climber
Monrovia, California
Mar 3, 2019 - 11:50am PT
Longer blow tube?

:-)

Glad you're okay.
bob

climber
Mar 3, 2019 - 11:58am PT
Iíd prefer it be called a longer blow tube thingy. :) I normally use a longer one and simply grabbed the wrong one. Ugh. Ok, I payed the piper because I used a power drill and a short blow thingy. Thanks ksolem for the kind words. Iíll be good to go with some rolling around on my rubber ball thingy.
wstmrnclmr

Trad climber
Bishop
Mar 3, 2019 - 12:36pm PT
Blow tube? Whatís that? Gosh Bob, glad your OK and hope to see you soon. Welcome back from the dark side.......
bob

climber
Mar 3, 2019 - 12:50pm PT
Back from the dark side. No sh#t, eh Tony?!? Whew, Iím lucky! Though, I think Iím in the grey side cataplexy (<<<<Category is what I meant but that word cataplexy is rad!!.).

Ir like you to know that it wasnít my drill. I never bought one, but...... ;-)

Back out that way end of the month. Iím give you a shout for sure. Hope youíre healing well.
tuolumne_tradster

Trad climber
Leading Edge of North American Plate
Mar 3, 2019 - 01:49pm PT
August West

Trad climber
Where the wind blows strange
Mar 3, 2019 - 02:45pm PT
After drilling the third bolt I stepped up on a hold and blew the bolt hole out with my tube thingy. As I was stepping back down to the bigger stance from which I was to install the bolt from, the foot hold I was depending on blew. Thus it was to be. To the deck I went. I havenít hit the deck since 93í.

Hope you are ok. Maybe it was an easier section, but as a general rule if you come off just before clipping the third bolt, I would hope that the second bolt would catch you.
August West

Trad climber
Where the wind blows strange
Mar 3, 2019 - 02:47pm PT
I tried to find a picture of Dancing in the Light. I got up to Squamish 3 or 4 times. I remember it as a great route. Do they still climb moderately hard slabs up there or has the lichen taken back over?
bob

climber
Mar 3, 2019 - 03:18pm PT
^^^^^^. Did The way I write it come off as though the second bolt didnít catch me? After drilling the hole for the third bolt I stepped up higher to blow out the hole that was to be filled with the third bolt. Second bolt caught me. I still hit the turf. I just didnít hit as hard as I would have if it didnít catch most of it.
wstmrnclmr

Trad climber
Bishop
Mar 3, 2019 - 08:41pm PT
I remembered a friend had filmed this. Hard to find vids of stance drilling.....
[Click to View YouTube Video]
Sierra Ledge Rat

Mountain climber
Old and Broken Down in Appalachia
Mar 3, 2019 - 10:51pm PT

mouse from merced

Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
Mar 4, 2019 - 09:50am PT
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=1598132&msg=1598132#msg1598132


One should appreciate the PLETHORA of other slab threads on SuperTopo.
mouse from merced

Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
Mar 4, 2019 - 04:33pm PT
Breedlove's basics for beginners, n00bs, gymsters and journalists.

Roger knows slabs.
mouse from merced

Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
Mar 13, 2019 - 07:43pm PT
On D.R.'s Facebook page.

Doug has a thing going on in Mammoth Saturday night. Check out the page.
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Mar 13, 2019 - 07:57pm PT
Unclimbed slab in Patagonia...will likely go with Crocs...get on it!
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