Discussion Topic |
|
This thread has been locked |
Jay Wood
Trad climber
Land of God-less fools
|
|
|
May 10, 2011 - 03:00pm PT
|
Thanks, Greg.
There's (supposed to be) one of those lost-at-sea bolts on 'Breathing Hard'- Medlicott, that I never found.
Also, Blues in A, Bumps, & probably Bitter Creek have some mank.
|
|
karodrinker
Trad climber
San Jose, CA
|
|
|
May 10, 2011 - 03:16pm PT
|
Turn Karma into a via ferrata...
|
|
Roger Brown
climber
Oceano, California
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - May 10, 2011 - 09:41pm PT
|
Crazy only had the first four pitches replaced when we were there in August 2008. Smith-Crawford only had the first three pitches and the four protection bolts on the forth pitch replaced. That was all I could get to from our high point on Mother Earth. It would be nice to finish both of them this season:-)
|
|
nutjob
Gym climber
Berkeley, CA
|
|
|
May 10, 2011 - 09:43pm PT
|
There's this bolt on Via Aqua... only the one as I recall but it really needs replacing!
That face traverse on Steck Salathe has something pretty sketchy looking.
Overhang Bypass has some historic looking old license plate or coke can type hanger.
Ok, I'll stop being a jack@ss.
|
|
Greg Barnes
climber
|
|
|
May 10, 2011 - 10:43pm PT
|
Overhang Bypass bolt is new. But I didn't reuse the original hole:
The Overhang Bypass bolt was an old Star-dryvin that I was positive I could not remove and reuse the hole with the tools I had (actually there was a second one right next to it missing a hanger). I would have needed needlenose pliers, 3/8" lag bolt, extra long wrench for that lag bolt, funkness (maybe), maybe a nail/hook type thing to get steel sleeve bits out, and to have rigged a rope to hang on (as opposed to working from stance while following). So I had to place a new bolt next to it. And since the old bolt looks really cool I decided to leave it as a museum piece. In future rebolting it will be possible to reuse the original hole (if the lag screw method works on that sleeve) and remove/patch the new bolt. Not the best solution (best would have been to just leave it and come back loaded for bear), but functional for now (yes I also forgot to patch the extra old hole). Thanks to Joe Denicola for a patient belay (he also put up with replacing the Wise Crack anchor that weekend).
Before:
After:
|
|
bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
|
|
|
May 10, 2011 - 11:18pm PT
|
Share your rebolting ethos, strategies and tactics with us. Show us how to rebolt a route, from the up front research to leaving minimal trace.
I think many people are interested and would participate, but don't have the info to do the best job. Even a few people taking your MO into the field could be a boon for sensible rebolting. I'd be particularly hopeful to see an upstanding rebolter's take on research and route character.
Good post. Mike.
And thanks Greg, Clint, Roger and Sal on the work!!!
|
|
Greg Barnes
climber
|
|
|
May 11, 2011 - 02:11am PT
|
Found some photos on the Middle Earth bolt next to the flake (there is pro right next to it in a somewhat hollow flake, with even better pro at foot level since the flake is much thicker there). Karen didn't even clip it on lead, he placed a cam instead.
Before:
After:
Detail of old bolt location:
The first bolt on the route - protecting the long traverse right - was horrible. It popped instantly, one of those that I might have been able to remove simply by pulling out hard on the draw.
|
|
Tom
Big Wall climber
San Luis Obispo CA
|
|
|
May 11, 2011 - 03:55am PT
|
How about everything 1/4", as a start?
I've seen some stuff literally crumble when a tuning fork tried to pull it out.
As a general rule, the old belay bolts looked *OK* from the outside, and were totally rotten when pulled out. The corrosion and danger were hidden from view.
God Bless you, for taking the time to pull, redrill and repair those ancient anchors. I know what a PIA it is to take the time to do it.
|
|
Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
|
|
|
May 11, 2011 - 04:10am PT
|
Anybody ever replace the bolts on top of the Slack (a few pitches above Sacherer cracker?) They were a nightmare (if there was even two)
The Rorp on Reeds had some bad Anchorage on tope as well.
The First Seven pitches of Hall of Mirrors have nasty bolts, it's easy to rap them by climbing Goodrich, then two pitches of Galactic Hitchhiker. Then you can rap to the hang (where a giant flake has sorta blocked the rap anchors but there is another set jury rigged for rapping on the left edge of the ledge.
Some ideas, thanks for the pubic service
Peace
Karl
|
|
Roger Brown
climber
Oceano, California
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - May 11, 2011 - 11:09am PT
|
Karl,
Re. Hall of Mirrors. Our log book shows that we replaced one bolt at each of the first three anchors, the other bolt had already been replaced. We have no record of any protection bolts being replaced so I guess they had already been done. It is on Clint's to do list as a top down adventure.
|
|
k-man
Gym climber
SCruz
|
|
|
May 11, 2011 - 11:51am PT
|
I've been doing my best to get on some of these renewed routes, what a pleasure, Shakey Flakes, Quicksilver, Sailin' Shoes, The Rambler.
I would love to see a list of what's been replaced--is there one?
Thanks for the hard work guys, and please let me know if ya need help fixin'.
EDIT: OK, I see the LIST! Nice. Wow, that is a LOT of work.
For the record, we did the first 6 of Shakey Flakes, and found the first bolt on the 7th to be an old 1/4" with a fat run above... Anybody know the details of what is above that--it didn't appear that the next bolt was new, although difficult to tell from 25' away...
|
|
mikeyschaefer
climber
Yosemite
|
|
|
May 11, 2011 - 12:27pm PT
|
I'd be willing to help get the rope above Crazy and the Smith/Crawford. I'll be there next weekend and will be staying till mid-june.
|
|
M. Volland
Trad climber
Grand Canyon
|
|
|
May 11, 2011 - 12:29pm PT
|
Pink Dream anchor needs replacing.
|
|
Alexey
Trad climber
San Jose, CA
|
|
|
May 11, 2011 - 03:11pm PT
|
intermediate rap station on Slab Happy Pinnacle [ 3 relict bolts from 70 th]
|
|
Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
|
|
|
May 12, 2011 - 02:14am PT
|
Mikey,
Wow, thanks - it would be great to get help fixing on Crazy and the middle and upper parts of Smith-Crawford. I'll contact you when Roger has a plan for when he is starting this year.
I had a grand scheme in 2009 of fixing from the top of Smith Crawford on down to the ground, but we had an epic hauling the ropes across the North Face Traverse, and then it looked harder than I expected to continue after crossing Mother Earth. (Plus it looked like we didn't have enough ropes....).
Marc,
Yeah, that Pink Dream anchor is quite "picturesque"!
It's a good one to do quickly in the fall when approach access is easier, I think.
Alexey,
Yeah, I have seen some of those bolts on Slab Happy (in 2004), especially the free version of the Center route. I replaced one, and wasn't having much luck on the moves above it ... will need a little help up there, too. :-)
Kelly,
hoipolloi reported on the "Arches Terrace TR" that the bolts on p7 of Shakey Flakes are all still original 1/4". The topo doesn't show any bolts on p8.
|
|
bhilden
Trad climber
Mountain View, CA
|
|
|
May 12, 2011 - 02:43am PT
|
What's the status of the next rap anchor down when you are rapping off of Sunset Ledge? I seem to remember a lot of funk and not being very fond of it.
|
|
Greg Barnes
climber
|
|
|
May 12, 2011 - 02:43am PT
|
In 2008 we replaced the anchor on top of the first pitch of the Center Route on Slab Happy, but didn't get any of the (super sketchy) pro bolts (it was getting dark).
That golden granite up there is HARD rock even by Valley standards!
|
|
Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
|
|
|
May 12, 2011 - 02:53am PT
|
Bruce,
> ... rapping off of Sunset Ledge ...
Do you mean rapping down Serenity Crack (or Adrenaline/Endorphine)?
Those are all fine.
(Although there was the fatality when the guy was rapping single strand from the top of Serenity p3 and assumed the knot would stay jammed in what was probably an oversize ring).
nutjob,
Here's the bolt on Via Aqua:
Looks actually pretty good to me.
Those big Star Dryvins can be quite good.
Usually it's the hanger that goes bad, and you wish you could just replace that.
Here the hanger is fine.
|
|
k-man
Gym climber
SCruz
|
|
|
May 12, 2011 - 11:35am PT
|
Clint, reading the ASCA Yosemite bolt replacement page, I see this:
"Route found between Reefer Madness and Greasy but Groovy Route starts at the top of 1st pitch of Reefer Madness and goes pretty much straight up to the top of the 8Th pitch of Greasy but Groovy.
All bolts replaced."
Is there a topo for this? Number of bolts per pitch maybe? Sounds wild!
Yes, I was with hoipolloi when we discovered the 7th of Shakey Flakes still needs some work. I was wondering if you remember getting above p6 on that climb?
Also, I know it's outta season, but don't the bolts on Double Cross need work ;-)
|
|
Brokedownclimber
Trad climber
Douglas, WY
|
|
|
May 12, 2011 - 11:43am PT
|
Just read the TR on "Lemon" that the anchor atop the first pitch needs fixin'. It's an unsafe rappel, otherwise.
|
|
|
SuperTopo on the Web
|
Let us know!