bolt replacement ideas for 2011

Search
Go

Discussion Topic

Return to Forum List
This thread has been locked
Messages 1 - 70 of total 70 in this topic
Roger Brown

climber
Oceano, California
Topic Author's Original Post - May 9, 2011 - 10:10am PT
Clint and I are making our plans for this seasons bolt replacement efforts. We thought we would ask here on the Forum for ideas. The recent trip report on Slander Session with its old bolts and bad hangers is now on our list.
karodrinker

Trad climber
San Jose, CA
May 9, 2011 - 10:37am PT
KARMA
frog-e

Trad climber
Imperial Beach California
May 9, 2011 - 11:14am PT
IMHO by order of route popularity,
hence potential wear (repeated loading)
of the anchors.

Carrying a couple load limiters for the less traveled
climbs with bolt protection/anchors seems a reasonable
measure.

And thank you very much for the exemplary effort.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
May 9, 2011 - 12:02pm PT
Karma is not a good candidate because it needs to be reworked to meet modern standards and isn't a simple matter of removal and replacement. Ken and Dave need to be involved in the decision making as it is their line and is far from straightforward.
karodrinker

Trad climber
San Jose, CA
May 9, 2011 - 12:06pm PT
KARMA
Jay Wood

Trad climber
Land of God-less fools
May 9, 2011 - 12:29pm PT
Unh-Huh. Only 2 bolts.

Roseanne.

Harlot.

Curve like her. Replace fixed pin with bolt?

Ursula.

Tune Up. Haven't done it but want to.
Greg Barnes

climber
May 9, 2011 - 12:44pm PT
Jay, Roger already replaced Ursula - and every other bolt on the steep right wall of Dozier Dome (including Tune Up)! We didn't even fix ropes for him, that's where we sent him when we couldn't keep up with fixing ropes for him everywhere else in Tuolumne!

He did remove a 1" rusty piton protecting the crux of Ursula - with his fingers. 1" cams fit nicely.

edit: Roseanne is replaced (Drew Rollins), except for one bolt that Drew never found (some people find it, some don't)
Mighty Hiker

climber
Vancouver, B.C.
May 9, 2011 - 03:39pm PT
http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/1265655/Bolt-Replacement-2010

http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/912351/Bolt-replacement-2009
mooch

Trad climber
Old Climbers' Home (Adopted)
May 9, 2011 - 03:58pm PT
A few old buttonheads with SMC hangers on Big Rock....1st bolt on 'Pudnurdle' comes to mind. Even if you came off near the second bolt.....its pretty useless bolt.
looking sketchy there...

Social climber
Latitute 33
May 9, 2011 - 04:52pm PT
Piece de Resistance
Pass the Chongo, Chongo

Social climber
love, trust, and T*Rs nuts!
May 9, 2011 - 04:58pm PT
please do the 5.9 on the slab in the alcove on el cap, cant belive that one hasnt been done yet,,, and no need for rope fixing monkeys. karo and i will be reroing karma next week any one wanna help??!?!?

-ptcc
Salamanizer

Trad climber
The land of Fruits & Nuts!
May 9, 2011 - 05:01pm PT
First of all, I'd like to offer my services helping to fix ropes if needed.

Suggested replacement ideas:

*Upper half of Mother Earth and Smith Crawford.
*Misty Wall and Geek Towers (I hear their not so good, dont know for sure)
*Ahwahnee Buttress
*Many routes on North Dome
*Sentinel West Face?
*All the stuff above Point Beyond? ( Lucifers??)
*Karma (would love to help)
*Bircheff Williams
*Crazy
*The Odyssey (might be a waste of time)
*Tour de Force??
*The Cobra


That's all I can think of off the top of my head. I'd be willing to help out with any of these or other routes.


Edited to add: Ah hell, I wasn't even thinking of Tuolumne. I'm game for all that too. I know Fairest of All and Heart of Stone have some bunk bolts on them.
Happy rebolting...
Elcapinyoazz

Social climber
Joshua Tree
May 9, 2011 - 05:23pm PT
"The Odyssey"

Yes. Plenty of other good ones requested too.
Pass the Chongo, Chongo

Social climber
love, trust, and T*Rs nuts!
May 9, 2011 - 05:28pm PT
simulkrime!!!!! http://www.supertopo.com/rock-climbing/Yosemite-Valley-El-Capitan-Simulkrime


-PTCC

Salamanizer- u can join karo and i up there next week. grossman is hooking up some space stations. going to be a hoot.
Salamanizer

Trad climber
The land of Fruits & Nuts!
May 9, 2011 - 05:44pm PT
I was just going to tie into two fattie ropes and sack the fukk up. I don't think you can get to it very easily from the top. It'd probably take thousands of feet of rope and a couple days to fix safely.

I really don't think retreat is an option either, at least not very easily.

You could MiniTrax the thing, but if you fall you're still going to face the chop. Ain't no spurt route up thar.
Impaler

Gym climber
Vancouver
May 9, 2011 - 06:15pm PT
The bolts on middle earth (Marioulumne dome) are heinous and in serious need of replacement if it hasn't been done by someone else yet in the last 3 years. There are two sets of double bolt anchors on top of pitch 2 within 15 feet of one another (vertically). The lower set should be replaced by a single bolt and upper by a double bolt anchor.

Thanks again for all your work, Roger!
Greg Barnes

climber
May 9, 2011 - 06:20pm PT
I replaced all the bolts on Middle Earth in 2008 with Karen Chaltikian and Peter Valchev rope gunning.

All bolts except the doubled pro bolt (now one good bolt) and the bolt next to the flake (we chopped it, there was good pro at foot level with modern cams). The lower set of doubled bolts was the original anchor and better stance, the upper one was doubled pro bolts and bad fall potential off the belay if we were to have made that the belay.
Impaler

Gym climber
Vancouver
May 9, 2011 - 06:29pm PT
Thanks Greg! That route is pretty sweet and should be getting more traffic now!
Double D

climber
May 9, 2011 - 07:12pm PT
Piece de Resistance
Yup and might as well add Mr. Toads if it hasn't been. Two very fine routes.

*The Odyssey (might be a waste of time)
Would be a waste of time. There's only a couple of bolts on the 10c face pitch if I remember right and the "gardening" pitch prolly needs a shovel, hoe, rake and sandblaster to get it up to par again. The 11d OW pitch is stellar though...too bad.
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
May 10, 2011 - 05:43am PT
Thanks, Jay, Randy, Chad, Will, and Dave. Good stuff.
Your help was really great last year, Chad!
I still feel bad you had to climb that mud/grass/bushes pitch in the arch twice! to access Benzoin and Edges. All fixed now, though!

Here's p2 on The Cobra (in 2004) with ancient 1/4" Star-Dryvins and the step across the wet streak/stream:

And as for you folks spamming "Karma" - "You'll get yours"! :-)

Tuolumne may not be accessible for awhile due to all the snow, and Roger may be ready soon, so stuff in the main Valley is good, even if scattered around a bit.
The "easy pickin's" of Arches Terrace, Glacier Point Apron, and Middle Cathedral North Apron are mostly done; now looking for the remaining rusty 1/4"ers that are hiding here and there.

We had some routes like El Matador and Champagne on Ice on the list last year, but didn't get to them. After the big rockfall, maybe it's good we didn't....

The list on the ASCA site of rebolted climbs is fairly complete, although it is still missing the stuff replaced in 2009 on the Middle Cathedral North Apron
http://www.safeclimbing.org/areas/california/yosemitefree.htm
(I think Crazy was replaced, or maybe most of it?)
[Edit: see below, only the first 4 pitches were replaced on Crazy]
Jay Wood

Trad climber
Land of God-less fools
May 10, 2011 - 03:00pm PT
Thanks, Greg.

There's (supposed to be) one of those lost-at-sea bolts on 'Breathing Hard'- Medlicott, that I never found.

Also, Blues in A, Bumps, & probably Bitter Creek have some mank.
karodrinker

Trad climber
San Jose, CA
May 10, 2011 - 03:16pm PT
Turn Karma into a via ferrata...
Roger Brown

climber
Oceano, California
Topic Author's Reply - May 10, 2011 - 09:41pm PT
Crazy only had the first four pitches replaced when we were there in August 2008. Smith-Crawford only had the first three pitches and the four protection bolts on the forth pitch replaced. That was all I could get to from our high point on Mother Earth. It would be nice to finish both of them this season:-)
nutjob

Gym climber
Berkeley, CA
May 10, 2011 - 09:43pm PT
There's this bolt on Via Aqua... only the one as I recall but it really needs replacing!

That face traverse on Steck Salathe has something pretty sketchy looking.

Overhang Bypass has some historic looking old license plate or coke can type hanger.

Ok, I'll stop being a jack@ss.
Greg Barnes

climber
May 10, 2011 - 10:43pm PT
Overhang Bypass bolt is new. But I didn't reuse the original hole:

The Overhang Bypass bolt was an old Star-dryvin that I was positive I could not remove and reuse the hole with the tools I had (actually there was a second one right next to it missing a hanger). I would have needed needlenose pliers, 3/8" lag bolt, extra long wrench for that lag bolt, funkness (maybe), maybe a nail/hook type thing to get steel sleeve bits out, and to have rigged a rope to hang on (as opposed to working from stance while following). So I had to place a new bolt next to it. And since the old bolt looks really cool I decided to leave it as a museum piece. In future rebolting it will be possible to reuse the original hole (if the lag screw method works on that sleeve) and remove/patch the new bolt. Not the best solution (best would have been to just leave it and come back loaded for bear), but functional for now (yes I also forgot to patch the extra old hole). Thanks to Joe Denicola for a patient belay (he also put up with replacing the Wise Crack anchor that weekend).

Before:

After:
bluering

Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
May 10, 2011 - 11:18pm PT
Share your rebolting ethos, strategies and tactics with us. Show us how to rebolt a route, from the up front research to leaving minimal trace.

I think many people are interested and would participate, but don't have the info to do the best job. Even a few people taking your MO into the field could be a boon for sensible rebolting. I'd be particularly hopeful to see an upstanding rebolter's take on research and route character.

Good post. Mike.

And thanks Greg, Clint, Roger and Sal on the work!!!
Greg Barnes

climber
May 11, 2011 - 02:11am PT
Found some photos on the Middle Earth bolt next to the flake (there is pro right next to it in a somewhat hollow flake, with even better pro at foot level since the flake is much thicker there). Karen didn't even clip it on lead, he placed a cam instead.

Before:

After:

Detail of old bolt location:

The first bolt on the route - protecting the long traverse right - was horrible. It popped instantly, one of those that I might have been able to remove simply by pulling out hard on the draw.
Tom

Big Wall climber
San Luis Obispo CA
May 11, 2011 - 03:55am PT
How about everything 1/4", as a start?

I've seen some stuff literally crumble when a tuning fork tried to pull it out.

As a general rule, the old belay bolts looked *OK* from the outside, and were totally rotten when pulled out. The corrosion and danger were hidden from view.




God Bless you, for taking the time to pull, redrill and repair those ancient anchors. I know what a PIA it is to take the time to do it.
Karl Baba

Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
May 11, 2011 - 04:10am PT
Anybody ever replace the bolts on top of the Slack (a few pitches above Sacherer cracker?) They were a nightmare (if there was even two)

The Rorp on Reeds had some bad Anchorage on tope as well.

The First Seven pitches of Hall of Mirrors have nasty bolts, it's easy to rap them by climbing Goodrich, then two pitches of Galactic Hitchhiker. Then you can rap to the hang (where a giant flake has sorta blocked the rap anchors but there is another set jury rigged for rapping on the left edge of the ledge.

Some ideas, thanks for the pubic service

Peace

Karl
Roger Brown

climber
Oceano, California
Topic Author's Reply - May 11, 2011 - 11:09am PT
Karl,
Re. Hall of Mirrors. Our log book shows that we replaced one bolt at each of the first three anchors, the other bolt had already been replaced. We have no record of any protection bolts being replaced so I guess they had already been done. It is on Clint's to do list as a top down adventure.
k-man

Gym climber
SCruz
May 11, 2011 - 11:51am PT
I've been doing my best to get on some of these renewed routes, what a pleasure, Shakey Flakes, Quicksilver, Sailin' Shoes, The Rambler.

I would love to see a list of what's been replaced--is there one?

Thanks for the hard work guys, and please let me know if ya need help fixin'.



EDIT: OK, I see the LIST! Nice. Wow, that is a LOT of work.

For the record, we did the first 6 of Shakey Flakes, and found the first bolt on the 7th to be an old 1/4" with a fat run above... Anybody know the details of what is above that--it didn't appear that the next bolt was new, although difficult to tell from 25' away...
mikeyschaefer

climber
Yosemite
May 11, 2011 - 12:27pm PT
I'd be willing to help get the rope above Crazy and the Smith/Crawford. I'll be there next weekend and will be staying till mid-june.

M. Volland

Trad climber
Grand Canyon
May 11, 2011 - 12:29pm PT
Pink Dream anchor needs replacing.
Alexey

Trad climber
San Jose, CA
May 11, 2011 - 03:11pm PT
intermediate rap station on Slab Happy Pinnacle [ 3 relict bolts from 70 th]
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
May 12, 2011 - 02:14am PT
Mikey,

Wow, thanks - it would be great to get help fixing on Crazy and the middle and upper parts of Smith-Crawford. I'll contact you when Roger has a plan for when he is starting this year.
I had a grand scheme in 2009 of fixing from the top of Smith Crawford on down to the ground, but we had an epic hauling the ropes across the North Face Traverse, and then it looked harder than I expected to continue after crossing Mother Earth. (Plus it looked like we didn't have enough ropes....).

Marc,

Yeah, that Pink Dream anchor is quite "picturesque"!
It's a good one to do quickly in the fall when approach access is easier, I think.

Alexey,

Yeah, I have seen some of those bolts on Slab Happy (in 2004), especially the free version of the Center route. I replaced one, and wasn't having much luck on the moves above it ... will need a little help up there, too. :-)

Kelly,

hoipolloi reported on the "Arches Terrace TR" that the bolts on p7 of Shakey Flakes are all still original 1/4". The topo doesn't show any bolts on p8.
bhilden

Trad climber
Mountain View, CA
May 12, 2011 - 02:43am PT
What's the status of the next rap anchor down when you are rapping off of Sunset Ledge? I seem to remember a lot of funk and not being very fond of it.
Greg Barnes

climber
May 12, 2011 - 02:43am PT
In 2008 we replaced the anchor on top of the first pitch of the Center Route on Slab Happy, but didn't get any of the (super sketchy) pro bolts (it was getting dark).

That golden granite up there is HARD rock even by Valley standards!
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
May 12, 2011 - 02:53am PT
Bruce,

> ... rapping off of Sunset Ledge ...

Do you mean rapping down Serenity Crack (or Adrenaline/Endorphine)?
Those are all fine.
(Although there was the fatality when the guy was rapping single strand from the top of Serenity p3 and assumed the knot would stay jammed in what was probably an oversize ring).

nutjob,

Here's the bolt on Via Aqua:
Looks actually pretty good to me.
Those big Star Dryvins can be quite good.
Usually it's the hanger that goes bad, and you wish you could just replace that.
Here the hanger is fine.
k-man

Gym climber
SCruz
May 12, 2011 - 11:35am PT
Clint, reading the ASCA Yosemite bolt replacement page, I see this:

"Route found between Reefer Madness and Greasy but Groovy Route starts at the top of 1st pitch of Reefer Madness and goes pretty much straight up to the top of the 8Th pitch of Greasy but Groovy.
All bolts replaced."

Is there a topo for this? Number of bolts per pitch maybe? Sounds wild!

Yes, I was with hoipolloi when we discovered the 7th of Shakey Flakes still needs some work. I was wondering if you remember getting above p6 on that climb?

Also, I know it's outta season, but don't the bolts on Double Cross need work ;-)
Brokedownclimber

Trad climber
Douglas, WY
May 12, 2011 - 11:43am PT
Just read the TR on "Lemon" that the anchor atop the first pitch needs fixin'. It's an unsafe rappel, otherwise.
pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
May 12, 2011 - 12:11pm PT
anymore slabs to fix on?
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
May 12, 2011 - 03:35pm PT
Kelly,

> "Route found between Reefer Madness and Greasy but Groovy Route starts at the top of 1st pitch of Reefer Madness and goes pretty much straight up to the top of the 8Th pitch of Greasy but Groovy.
All bolts replaced."

> Is there a topo for this? Number of bolts per pitch maybe? Sounds wild!

This route is Cosmic Diesel 5.11+, FA by Ron Skelton, et al.
It's on my route list actually:
1690. Cosmic Diesel 5.11+, 7p, starts just L of GBG, crosses GBG on final pitch, ST
http://www.stanford.edu/%7Eclint/yos/YOS.HTM
You may wonder how Ron got the bolts in.
On lead, of course. But there's a good chance it was with a 1/4" power drill -
his special setup so he could drill quickly one-handed.
The drill goes in a special sleeve/pack on his back - he just grabbed a hold with his left hand, then reaches over his shoulder and grabbed the drill! (Not to suggest that the rest is easy!)
Back in the late 80s when power drilling was believed to be legal.

Here is the photo overlay from the Arches Terrace 2007 rebolting report.
(rightmost green line, route "N")

Here are the upper pitches
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=416237&tn=40
How about you guys do it and fill in the ratings and number of bolts?
There were wet streaks on it during the summer of 2007.
Ryan and I climbed its p7 and p8 '07, and Ryan replaced the bolts on its p9 while we were eyeing a thunderstorm approaching from Half Dome.

Rodger,

Thanks for the tip on Lemon. Looks easy to approach!

Ryan,

Sure, there are plenty of slabs on the list! Hopefully not as wicked runout as your lead on Exodus to fix in 2009 - that was way rad.... I will get a list together and you can have "dibs"! :-)
survival

Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
May 12, 2011 - 03:42pm PT
I second Weld-Its request for Black Primo. That is such a fine route and could use it. And that's from the waaay back machine!!

How about the DNB? Seems like that one has probably already been upgraded?
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
May 12, 2011 - 03:49pm PT
Bruce B,

"Weld_it" was trolling, or doesn't know what he is talking about.
I presume trolling, when he says "Fact".
Black Primo and Cat Dancing were fixed years ago by James Selvidge + Bernie Rivadeneyra.

DNB was fixed awhile back; it doesn't have many bolts on it anyway (except for belay anchors replacing old fixed pins).
Although there is an added Petzl Longlife just above the mantle which I would like to remove.

Check the ASCA Master List of replaced bolts I posted in the previous page:
http://www.safeclimbing.org/areas/california/yosemitefree.htm

[Edited:] I thought Black Primo and Jigsaw were on the master list, and might have been lost in an edit, but I checked the archive and never found them on the list. So my source on that must have been something else.
survival

Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
May 12, 2011 - 04:04pm PT
HA!

FACT: Weld It is almost always trolling...

I just saw his post and thought it was a rare moment of seriousness.

Thanks for the update Clint. I rarely ever check anything like a master list before I open my pie hole......
pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
May 18, 2011 - 12:25pm PT
clint,
i have the second week of august off and will be in mammoth the entire time. if you let me know i'll take a day to drive down to the valley to replace some old bolts. i'd really like to replace stuff outta Toulumne just cuzz it'll be closer.
also, it's sad but true some rap-bolting bone head has been putting up squeeze roots at Echo and is using ASCA hangers. i can give a name through PM. be careful who you give those hangers out too!
RM
BrassNuts

Trad climber
Save your a_s, reach for the brass...
May 18, 2011 - 12:40pm PT
Seems like the last time I did Mr. Natural the anchor bolts at the top were a bit ancient. Have those been upgraded in recent times? Cheers for all your hard work!
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
May 18, 2011 - 03:09pm PT
Ryan,

Sure, if we do stuff in the Meadows in August, will let you know!
Send the person's name to Greg (Barnes). Greg's email is on the ASCA site http://www.safeclimbing.org .
I have found ASCA hangers on a couple of obscure new routes before, but a few could be from old Sloan retros that somebody didn't agree with?

Dave,

Yes, the Mr. Natural anchors were replaced.
Got one when I climbed it with Jared in 2008.
http://www.stanford.edu/%7Eclint/rep/08427.htm

Then Roger got the other one when he did all the anchors on that right side of the Apron in September 2009.
pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
May 20, 2011 - 12:17pm PT
thank's clint! i'll let greg know. my buddy waugh took a photo of (ASCA hanger spray painted with brown paint) the evidence. it's a shame that some rap-bolter would use ASCA hangers then paint the hanger and the surrounding rock. strange!

also: if your around the L.A area on a thursday then stop on bye Boulder 1 around 7pm because Cole BBQ's hot dog'z for all who show at Stoney! i have a friend who would love to meet the rebolting master mind!
RM

edit:
evidence pic of false rebolting.
here is a picture of his roots. just left of the black water line. i've climbed here since 95'. this stuff is OFF.
here is the first bolt taken from the left most route.

So, U put a bolt then spray to color over. why not spray then place it?


once again! people are putting ASCA stamped hangers on new roots. then camo painting it on the rock.

Todd Gordon

Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
May 29, 2011 - 04:25pm PT

Tork

climber
Yosemite
May 29, 2011 - 05:21pm PT
I agree with Brokedown, would be nice to have the rap on Lemon fixed... but is it just going to get chopped again?
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
May 31, 2011 - 02:04am PT
Roger and I fixed 600' of rope on Saturday, scouted in the snow/rain Sunday, and fixed 1400' of rope on Monday.

We found about 90 1/4" bolts for Roger to replace in the next few weeks. Plans are in the works to fix ropes on some big routes for replacement, too.

The Lemon anchor is on the list and will get fixed. Right now it is one good bolt/ring hanger that Greg placed and one hangerless bolt. I don't know the chopping history.
bhilden

Trad climber
Mountain View, CA
May 31, 2011 - 03:26pm PT
Clint, Roger,

Nice start to the year's activities. I have a question for you.

Do you ever consider moving an anchor bolt, or two to make a belay anchor better. I am thinking of your photo of the anchor in the slime and also the situation where the two anchor bolts are poorly positioned (not at same height, too far apart, etc.)?

I know it is a bit of a difficult decision to make when you are doing a one-for-one bolt replacement, but it seems to me it is best to great the best anchor possible.
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
May 31, 2011 - 03:46pm PT
Bruce,

In 2007, I moved an anchor slightly on Friday the 13th, to move it out of a slime streak. It was also very low to the stance.
Later I noticed that the slime streak got wider and narrower over the course of the day!
nutjob

Gym climber
Berkeley, CA
May 31, 2011 - 06:56pm PT
Hourglass Right - one original looking quarter incher above the tree belay at start of P3. Very fun 5.8-5.9 climbing to approach it. I would not bet on that thing holding a fall, though le_bruce had more confidence in it.

One item for discussion... maybe put in a new 2-bolt anchor at or a little below the tree, to help keep the tree alive. Or maybe turn that bolt above the tree belay into part of a new anchor. If the approach hike was shorter, the belay tree would probably be gone already. As it is now, it is a little sketchy hanging out there, and mandatory climbing through the tree to pass it.
LongAgo

Trad climber
Jun 1, 2011 - 01:02am PT
Another vote for Piece de Resistance, but then since Vern Clevenger and I did the FA, I might be biased. Sure seemed like a great line and route, though I did get reports back in years after FA indicating crux pitch was not as high quality rock as I remembered, and maybe closer to 5.12 than our rating of 5.11. I'd be interested in your appraisal of the rock quality of the headwall pitch if you do it.

Not sure of the rebolting status of other Fairview Dome classics, maybe you could post. Thanks for all your good work.

Tom Higgins
LongAgo
pvalchev

Social climber
Mountain View, CA / Calgary, AB
Jun 1, 2011 - 01:47am PT
This one is quick & easy single pitch and not in the league of the other routes mentioned here, but the anchor on top of Babble On (at Pat & Jack) is a really sad looking tree that's going to pull out some day. See the comments @ MP (http://mountainproject.com/v/california/yosemite_national_park/yosemite_valley/105990395); - most others have felt the same fear. Would be nice to put a couple of rappel bolts there... (the only alternative is to use the anchors from Boneheads, but sometimes two different parties do these two routes, and it's quite a bit to the side). Would be happy to help, etc. feel free to email me.
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Jun 1, 2011 - 03:49am PT
le_bruce,

I have seen photos of that bolt on Hourglass Right Side, and it appears to be outdated by cams? (and on a strange side of the crack). Replacement would be a judgement call.

As for an anchor to bypass a tree, we only replace existing bolts with ASCA bolts. Sometimes if an existing fixed anchor (fixed pitons) is unsafe, we might replace it with our own bolts and hangers.
So we have a somewhat narrow objective - replacement of existing bolts, usually as defined by an accurate guidebook topo (and sometimes with more research).
We don't try to add fixed anchors or substitute bolts for trees.
We often subtract extra bolts at belays (i.e. when there are more than 2) and sometimes protection bolts obviously added (such as when Angel's Approach p1 went from 4 bolts on the topo to about 11, with the added bolts all the same type of hanger and about 2' above existing bolts...).
Those things might or might not be good ideas in terms of public service or preservation of shared climbing experiences, depending on the circumstances.
But we try to avoid these things, as they are controversial and not central to our mission.

pvalchev,

For Babble On, I agree with the comments on mp to use the bolt anchor on Showtime/Boneheads instead of the tree (although someone else may be using it).
Maybe contact Ed and suggest a change to the route description on mp?
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Jun 29, 2011 - 04:04am PT
> The Lemon anchor is on the list and will get fixed. Right now it is one good bolt/ring hanger that Greg placed and one hangerless bolt. I don't know the chopping history.

I fixed it on June 19. I hope it lasts. It seems that somebody does not want an anchor there.
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Jun 29, 2011 - 04:07am PT
Midnight Rambler (just left of Lunatic Fringe) - all 3 bolts replaced by Roger and I.
Thanks to my friend Ian Post for leading Lunatic Fringe, for the setup.

Roger also replaced all the bolts on Duck and Cover, further left.
I don't think it will see many leads, due to the fragile flake.
pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
Jun 29, 2011 - 12:23pm PT
roger's look'n good!
lucho

Trad climber
California
Jun 29, 2011 - 12:31pm PT
Killer Pillar on Elephant Rock has an anchor bolt/hanger on the 11b route, the north most route on the formation that is cracked. Its been that way since it was placed according to Dimitri and its kinda sketch. Go take a look! I would say some of the other anchor bolts need replacing too, cause its a long way down to the Merced from there.
cultureshock

Trad climber
Mountain View
Aug 15, 2011 - 03:34pm PT
Once climb that could use an upgrade, though I assume it still see's a bunch of traffic in the current state, is The Boltway on Stately Pleasure Dome.

It seems that it has been randomly upgraded since the FA.

On the first pitch there are a variety of 5/16 inch (i think) button heads and a single 1/4 bolt and maybe even one or two modern 3/8 inch bolts.

(Can you still use tuning forks to get out 5/16 inch bolts? Any other methods besides a crowbar?)

The second pitch seems to have been upgraded to 3/8 inch hardware.

Also another meadows climb that could use a single bolt fixed would be Needle and Spoon.

The 2nd bolt on the 2nd pitch is still an old 1/4 inch while the rest have been upgraded to 3/8 inch stainless.

Small tasks I'm sure in the big scheme of things.

 Luke
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Aug 15, 2011 - 03:45pm PT
Luke,

I think the problem with Boltway is that its start bolted over Eunuch, so it shouldn't really be there.
Last time I was up there, the original 1/4" Eunuch bolt was still in place, surrounded by 3/8" added below and above it....
Non-original bolts tend to just get left and not replaced.

Yes, Roger has tuning forks for 5/16" and 3/8".
cultureshock

Trad climber
Mountain View
Oct 19, 2012 - 12:22pm PT
Bump. Did the anchor on Pink Dream on Elephant Rock ever get replaced?

I might be heading that way this weekend and didn't know if I should bring a bolt kit...

(Clint, thanks for the info on the Boltway. There is a bunch of history that I am not aware of!)

 Luke
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Oct 19, 2012 - 05:00pm PT
Luke,

The Pink Dream anchor is not replaced yet.
It's safe enough to use, because there are several bolts and other gear backs it up.
But it's ugly.
If you would like to leave a rope fixed on it, Roger, Dan or I could go up and replace it.
You can borrow a good lead line from me to do this if you'd like.
Or contact Roger or Dan.
Roger is in the VIP (Volunteers in Parks) site in North Pines, next to site 401.
cultureshock

Trad climber
Mountain View
Oct 22, 2012 - 01:01pm PT
Got in touch with Dan and we were able to replace the bolts on top of P2 of Pink Dream.

Anchor is nice and shiny now!


http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=455645&msg=1959896#msg1959896

Thanks for all the hard work! I'll have to help out more in the future!

Cheers,

Luke
splitclimber

climber
Sonoma County
Oct 22, 2012 - 02:17pm PT
Thx Clint and Roger for your hard work.

had the pleasure to clip the new bolts (and skip the one above the roof, yikes) on the first two pitches of nuts n bolts on starr king this weekend. Looks like you guys stopped there.

The third pitch has a single lead bolt and two bolts at top of p3, then way up on the climb a couple more lead bolts here and there, then anchors on the top of pitch 7?. One super sketchy,, but unnecessary, bolt above p7 anchors.

Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Oct 22, 2012 - 06:04pm PT
Thanks for the beta on Nuts and Bolts, p3 and above!
Yes, you are right - we stopped at the top of p2. Based on route descriptions, I didn't think there was going to be a higher anchor to rappel from.
But climbing the route is the only way to get this info - I will update the overlay/topo based on your helpful info.
Ryan K

climber
the valley
Jan 27, 2016 - 04:14pm PT
So Clint...

Ever get on Cosmic Diesel??? Looks like a sick line!
Messages 1 - 70 of total 70 in this topic
Return to Forum List
 
Our Guidebooks
spacerCheck 'em out!
SuperTopo Guidebooks

guidebook icon
Try a free sample topo!

 
SuperTopo on the Web

Recent Route Beta