nutjob
Gym climber
Berkeley, CA
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May 31, 2011 - 03:56pm PT
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Hourglass Right - one original looking quarter incher above the tree belay at start of P3. Very fun 5.8-5.9 climbing to approach it. I would not bet on that thing holding a fall, though le_bruce had more confidence in it.
One item for discussion... maybe put in a new 2-bolt anchor at or a little below the tree, to help keep the tree alive. Or maybe turn that bolt above the tree belay into part of a new anchor. If the approach hike was shorter, the belay tree would probably be gone already. As it is now, it is a little sketchy hanging out there, and mandatory climbing through the tree to pass it.
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LongAgo
Trad climber
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May 31, 2011 - 10:02pm PT
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Another vote for Piece de Resistance, but then since Vern Clevenger and I did the FA, I might be biased. Sure seemed like a great line and route, though I did get reports back in years after FA indicating crux pitch was not as high quality rock as I remembered, and maybe closer to 5.12 than our rating of 5.11. I'd be interested in your appraisal of the rock quality of the headwall pitch if you do it.
Not sure of the rebolting status of other Fairview Dome classics, maybe you could post. Thanks for all your good work.
Tom Higgins
LongAgo
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pvalchev
Social climber
Mountain View, CA / Calgary, AB
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May 31, 2011 - 10:47pm PT
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This one is quick & easy single pitch and not in the league of the other routes mentioned here, but the anchor on top of Babble On (at Pat & Jack) is a really sad looking tree that's going to pull out some day. See the comments @ MP (http://mountainproject.com/v/california/yosemite_national_park/yosemite_valley/105990395) - most others have felt the same fear. Would be nice to put a couple of rappel bolts there... (the only alternative is to use the anchors from Boneheads, but sometimes two different parties do these two routes, and it's quite a bit to the side). Would be happy to help, etc. feel free to email me.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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le_bruce,
I have seen photos of that bolt on Hourglass Right Side, and it appears to be outdated by cams? (and on a strange side of the crack). Replacement would be a judgement call.
As for an anchor to bypass a tree, we only replace existing bolts with ASCA bolts. Sometimes if an existing fixed anchor (fixed pitons) is unsafe, we might replace it with our own bolts and hangers.
So we have a somewhat narrow objective - replacement of existing bolts, usually as defined by an accurate guidebook topo (and sometimes with more research).
We don't try to add fixed anchors or substitute bolts for trees.
We often subtract extra bolts at belays (i.e. when there are more than 2) and sometimes protection bolts obviously added (such as when Angel's Approach p1 went from 4 bolts on the topo to about 11, with the added bolts all the same type of hanger and about 2' above existing bolts...).
Those things might or might not be good ideas in terms of public service or preservation of shared climbing experiences, depending on the circumstances.
But we try to avoid these things, as they are controversial and not central to our mission.
pvalchev,
For Babble On, I agree with the comments on mp to use the bolt anchor on Showtime/Boneheads instead of the tree (although someone else may be using it).
Maybe contact Ed and suggest a change to the route description on mp?
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Jun 29, 2011 - 01:04am PT
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> The Lemon anchor is on the list and will get fixed. Right now it is one good bolt/ring hanger that Greg placed and one hangerless bolt. I don't know the chopping history.
I fixed it on June 19. I hope it lasts. It seems that somebody does not want an anchor there.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Jun 29, 2011 - 01:07am PT
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Midnight Rambler (just left of Lunatic Fringe) - all 3 bolts replaced by Roger and I.
Thanks to my friend Ian Post for leading Lunatic Fringe, for the setup.
Roger also replaced all the bolts on Duck and Cover, further left.
I don't think it will see many leads, due to the fragile flake.
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Jun 29, 2011 - 09:23am PT
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roger's look'n good!
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lucho
Trad climber
California
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Jun 29, 2011 - 09:31am PT
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Killer Pillar on Elephant Rock has an anchor bolt/hanger on the 11b route, the north most route on the formation that is cracked. Its been that way since it was placed according to Dimitri and its kinda sketch. Go take a look! I would say some of the other anchor bolts need replacing too, cause its a long way down to the Merced from there.
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cultureshock
Trad climber
Mountain View
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Aug 15, 2011 - 12:34pm PT
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Once climb that could use an upgrade, though I assume it still see's a bunch of traffic in the current state, is The Boltway on Stately Pleasure Dome.
It seems that it has been randomly upgraded since the FA.
On the first pitch there are a variety of 5/16 inch (i think) button heads and a single 1/4 bolt and maybe even one or two modern 3/8 inch bolts.
(Can you still use tuning forks to get out 5/16 inch bolts? Any other methods besides a crowbar?)
The second pitch seems to have been upgraded to 3/8 inch hardware.
Also another meadows climb that could use a single bolt fixed would be Needle and Spoon.
The 2nd bolt on the 2nd pitch is still an old 1/4 inch while the rest have been upgraded to 3/8 inch stainless.
Small tasks I'm sure in the big scheme of things.
 Luke
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Aug 15, 2011 - 12:45pm PT
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Luke,
I think the problem with Boltway is that its start bolted over Eunuch, so it shouldn't really be there.
Last time I was up there, the original 1/4" Eunuch bolt was still in place, surrounded by 3/8" added below and above it....
Non-original bolts tend to just get left and not replaced.
Yes, Roger has tuning forks for 5/16" and 3/8".
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cultureshock
Trad climber
Mountain View
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Oct 19, 2012 - 09:22am PT
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Bump. Did the anchor on Pink Dream on Elephant Rock ever get replaced?
I might be heading that way this weekend and didn't know if I should bring a bolt kit...
(Clint, thanks for the info on the Boltway. There is a bunch of history that I am not aware of!)
Luke
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Oct 19, 2012 - 02:00pm PT
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Luke,
The Pink Dream anchor is not replaced yet.
It's safe enough to use, because there are several bolts and other gear backs it up.
But it's ugly.
If you would like to leave a rope fixed on it, Roger, Dan or I could go up and replace it.
You can borrow a good lead line from me to do this if you'd like.
Or contact Roger or Dan.
Roger is in the VIP (Volunteers in Parks) site in North Pines, next to site 401.
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splitclimber
climber
Sonoma County
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Oct 22, 2012 - 11:17am PT
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Thx Clint and Roger for your hard work.
had the pleasure to clip the new bolts (and skip the one above the roof, yikes) on the first two pitches of nuts n bolts on starr king this weekend. Looks like you guys stopped there.
The third pitch has a single lead bolt and two bolts at top of p3, then way up on the climb a couple more lead bolts here and there, then anchors on the top of pitch 7?. One super sketchy,, but unnecessary, bolt above p7 anchors.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Oct 22, 2012 - 03:04pm PT
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Thanks for the beta on Nuts and Bolts, p3 and above!
Yes, you are right - we stopped at the top of p2. Based on route descriptions, I didn't think there was going to be a higher anchor to rappel from.
But climbing the route is the only way to get this info - I will update the overlay/topo based on your helpful info.
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SuperTopo on the Web
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![3rd bolt on Midnight Rambler [aka Midnight Rampest], just left of Luna...](http://www.supertopo.com/photos/8/61/207612_1409_L.jpg)
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