bolt replacement ideas for 2011

Search
Go

Discussion Topic

Return to Forum List
Post a Reply
Messages 41 - 60 of total 71 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Brokedownclimber

Trad climber
Douglas, WY
May 12, 2011 - 11:43am PT
Just read the TR on "Lemon" that the anchor atop the first pitch needs fixin'. It's an unsafe rappel, otherwise.
pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
May 12, 2011 - 12:11pm PT
anymore slabs to fix on?
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
May 12, 2011 - 03:35pm PT
Kelly,

> "Route found between Reefer Madness and Greasy but Groovy Route starts at the top of 1st pitch of Reefer Madness and goes pretty much straight up to the top of the 8Th pitch of Greasy but Groovy.
All bolts replaced."

> Is there a topo for this? Number of bolts per pitch maybe? Sounds wild!

This route is Cosmic Diesel 5.11+, FA by Ron Skelton, et al.
It's on my route list actually:
1690. Cosmic Diesel 5.11+, 7p, starts just L of GBG, crosses GBG on final pitch, ST
http://www.stanford.edu/%7Eclint/yos/YOS.HTM
You may wonder how Ron got the bolts in.
On lead, of course. But there's a good chance it was with a 1/4" power drill -
his special setup so he could drill quickly one-handed.
The drill goes in a special sleeve/pack on his back - he just grabbed a hold with his left hand, then reaches over his shoulder and grabbed the drill! (Not to suggest that the rest is easy!)
Back in the late 80s when power drilling was believed to be legal.


Here is the photo overlay from the Arches Terrace 2007 rebolting report.
(rightmost green line, route "N")


Here are the upper pitches
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=416237&tn=40
How about you guys do it and fill in the ratings and number of bolts?
There were wet streaks on it during the summer of 2007.
Ryan and I climbed its p7 and p8 '07, and Ryan replaced the bolts on its p9 while we were eyeing a thunderstorm approaching from Half Dome.

Rodger,

Thanks for the tip on Lemon. Looks easy to approach!

Ryan,

Sure, there are plenty of slabs on the list! Hopefully not as wicked runout as your lead on Exodus to fix in 2009 - that was way rad.... I will get a list together and you can have "dibs"! :-)
survival

Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
May 12, 2011 - 03:42pm PT
I second Weld-Its request for Black Primo. That is such a fine route and could use it. And that's from the waaay back machine!!

How about the DNB? Seems like that one has probably already been upgraded?
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
May 12, 2011 - 03:49pm PT
Bruce B,

"Weld_it" was trolling, or doesn't know what he is talking about.
I presume trolling, when he says "Fact".
Black Primo and Cat Dancing were fixed years ago by James Selvidge + Bernie Rivadeneyra.

DNB was fixed awhile back; it doesn't have many bolts on it anyway (except for belay anchors replacing old fixed pins).
Although there is an added Petzl Longlife just above the mantle which I would like to remove.

Check the ASCA Master List of replaced bolts I posted in the previous page:
http://www.safeclimbing.org/areas/california/yosemitefree.htm

[Edited:] I thought Black Primo and Jigsaw were on the master list, and might have been lost in an edit, but I checked the archive and never found them on the list. So my source on that must have been something else.
survival

Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
May 12, 2011 - 04:04pm PT
HA!

FACT: Weld It is almost always trolling...

I just saw his post and thought it was a rare moment of seriousness.

Thanks for the update Clint. I rarely ever check anything like a master list before I open my pie hole......
pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
May 18, 2011 - 12:25pm PT
clint,
i have the second week of august off and will be in mammoth the entire time. if you let me know i'll take a day to drive down to the valley to replace some old bolts. i'd really like to replace stuff outta Toulumne just cuzz it'll be closer.
also, it's sad but true some rap-bolting bone head has been putting up squeeze roots at Echo and is using ASCA hangers. i can give a name through PM. be careful who you give those hangers out too!
RM
BrassNuts

Trad climber
Save your a_s, reach for the brass...
May 18, 2011 - 12:40pm PT
Seems like the last time I did Mr. Natural the anchor bolts at the top were a bit ancient. Have those been upgraded in recent times? Cheers for all your hard work!
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
May 18, 2011 - 03:09pm PT
Ryan,

Sure, if we do stuff in the Meadows in August, will let you know!
Send the person's name to Greg (Barnes). Greg's email is on the ASCA site http://www.safeclimbing.org .
I have found ASCA hangers on a couple of obscure new routes before, but a few could be from old Sloan retros that somebody didn't agree with?

Dave,

Yes, the Mr. Natural anchors were replaced.

Got one when I climbed it with Jared in 2008.
http://www.stanford.edu/%7Eclint/rep/08427.htm

Then Roger got the other one when he did all the anchors on that right side of the Apron in September 2009.
pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
May 20, 2011 - 12:17pm PT
thank's clint! i'll let greg know. my buddy waugh took a photo of (ASCA hanger spray painted with brown paint) the evidence. it's a shame that some rap-bolter would use ASCA hangers then paint the hanger and the surrounding rock. strange!

also: if your around the L.A area on a thursday then stop on bye Boulder 1 around 7pm because Cole BBQ's hot dog'z for all who show at Stoney! i have a friend who would love to meet the rebolting master mind!
RM

edit:
evidence pic of false rebolting.
here is a picture of his roots. just left of the black water line. i've climbed here since 95'. this stuff is OFF.
Credit: pyro
here is the first bolt taken from the left most route.

So, U put a bolt then spray to color over. why not spray then place it?
Credit: pyro


once again! people are putting ASCA stamped hangers on new roots. then camo painting it on the rock.

Todd Gordon

Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
May 29, 2011 - 04:25pm PT


Tork

climber
Yosemite
May 29, 2011 - 05:21pm PT
I agree with Brokedown, would be nice to have the rap on Lemon fixed... but is it just going to get chopped again?
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
May 31, 2011 - 02:04am PT
Roger and I fixed 600' of rope on Saturday, scouted in the snow/rain Sunday, and fixed 1400' of rope on Monday.
One of the anchors we found while fixing ropes on Saturday.
One of the anchors we found while fixing ropes on Saturday.
Credit: Clint Cummins
Second anchor with vintage webbing....
Second anchor with vintage webbing....
Credit: Clint Cummins
Roger heading for an intermediate station, before it started sprinklin...
Roger heading for an intermediate station, before it started sprinkling.
Credit: Clint Cummins
Roger, fixing the first 600' static on Monday.  Lots of slime on the r...
Roger, fixing the first 600' static on Monday. Lots of slime on the rock from the wet spring and rain Sunday.
Credit: Clint Cummins
Roger, getting ready to fix the second set of ropes Monday. <br/>
Sporting...
Roger, getting ready to fix the second set of ropes Monday.
Sporting the NPS Volunteer shirt that Jesse got him.
Thanks for all the help, Jesse!
Credit: Clint Cummins
Intermediate anchor. <br/>
The scenery was nice, and no Memorial Day Weeke...
Intermediate anchor.
The scenery was nice, and no Memorial Day Weekend gridlock up here!
Credit: Clint Cummins
A slimey anchor we found.
A slimey anchor we found.
Credit: Clint Cummins
The rope reaches the ground, yay!
The rope reaches the ground, yay!
Credit: Clint Cummins

We found about 90 1/4" bolts for Roger to replace in the next few weeks. Plans are in the works to fix ropes on some big routes for replacement, too.

The Lemon anchor is on the list and will get fixed. Right now it is one good bolt/ring hanger that Greg placed and one hangerless bolt. I don't know the chopping history.
bhilden

Trad climber
Mountain View, CA
May 31, 2011 - 03:26pm PT
Clint, Roger,

Nice start to the year's activities. I have a question for you.

Do you ever consider moving an anchor bolt, or two to make a belay anchor better. I am thinking of your photo of the anchor in the slime and also the situation where the two anchor bolts are poorly positioned (not at same height, too far apart, etc.)?

I know it is a bit of a difficult decision to make when you are doing a one-for-one bolt replacement, but it seems to me it is best to great the best anchor possible.
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
May 31, 2011 - 03:46pm PT
Bruce,

In 2007, I moved an anchor slightly on Friday the 13th, to move it out of a slime streak. It was also very low to the stance.
Later I noticed that the slime streak got wider and narrower over the course of the day!

nutjob

Gym climber
Berkeley, CA
May 31, 2011 - 06:56pm PT
Hourglass Right - one original looking quarter incher above the tree belay at start of P3. Very fun 5.8-5.9 climbing to approach it. I would not bet on that thing holding a fall, though le_bruce had more confidence in it.

One item for discussion... maybe put in a new 2-bolt anchor at or a little below the tree, to help keep the tree alive. Or maybe turn that bolt above the tree belay into part of a new anchor. If the approach hike was shorter, the belay tree would probably be gone already. As it is now, it is a little sketchy hanging out there, and mandatory climbing through the tree to pass it.
LongAgo

Trad climber
Jun 1, 2011 - 01:02am PT
Another vote for Piece de Resistance, but then since Vern Clevenger and I did the FA, I might be biased. Sure seemed like a great line and route, though I did get reports back in years after FA indicating crux pitch was not as high quality rock as I remembered, and maybe closer to 5.12 than our rating of 5.11. I'd be interested in your appraisal of the rock quality of the headwall pitch if you do it.

Not sure of the rebolting status of other Fairview Dome classics, maybe you could post. Thanks for all your good work.

Tom Higgins
LongAgo
pvalchev

Social climber
Mountain View, CA / Calgary, AB
Jun 1, 2011 - 01:47am PT
This one is quick & easy single pitch and not in the league of the other routes mentioned here, but the anchor on top of Babble On (at Pat & Jack) is a really sad looking tree that's going to pull out some day. See the comments @ MP (http://mountainproject.com/v/california/yosemite_national_park/yosemite_valley/105990395); - most others have felt the same fear. Would be nice to put a couple of rappel bolts there... (the only alternative is to use the anchors from Boneheads, but sometimes two different parties do these two routes, and it's quite a bit to the side). Would be happy to help, etc. feel free to email me.
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Jun 1, 2011 - 03:49am PT
le_bruce,

I have seen photos of that bolt on Hourglass Right Side, and it appears to be outdated by cams? (and on a strange side of the crack). Replacement would be a judgement call.

As for an anchor to bypass a tree, we only replace existing bolts with ASCA bolts. Sometimes if an existing fixed anchor (fixed pitons) is unsafe, we might replace it with our own bolts and hangers.
So we have a somewhat narrow objective - replacement of existing bolts, usually as defined by an accurate guidebook topo (and sometimes with more research).
We don't try to add fixed anchors or substitute bolts for trees.
We often subtract extra bolts at belays (i.e. when there are more than 2) and sometimes protection bolts obviously added (such as when Angel's Approach p1 went from 4 bolts on the topo to about 11, with the added bolts all the same type of hanger and about 2' above existing bolts...).
Those things might or might not be good ideas in terms of public service or preservation of shared climbing experiences, depending on the circumstances.
But we try to avoid these things, as they are controversial and not central to our mission.

pvalchev,

For Babble On, I agree with the comments on mp to use the bolt anchor on Showtime/Boneheads instead of the tree (although someone else may be using it).
Maybe contact Ed and suggest a change to the route description on mp?
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Jun 29, 2011 - 04:04am PT
> The Lemon anchor is on the list and will get fixed. Right now it is one good bolt/ring hanger that Greg placed and one hangerless bolt. I don't know the chopping history.

I fixed it on June 19. I hope it lasts. It seems that somebody does not want an anchor there.
Lemon anchor - before. <br/>
The bolt Greg replaced is on the left; somebo...
Lemon anchor - before.
The bolt Greg replaced is on the left; somebody had taken the hanger.
Two different parties rapped from the single 5/16" buttonhead in the morning before the anchor was replaced.
Credit: Clint Cummins
Lemon anchor - after. <br/>
Later I did a toprope lap, and then noticed th...
Lemon anchor - after.
Later I did a toprope lap, and then noticed there is a separate anchor with 3/8" SS wedgebolts, about 10' above and left.
It likely had a Fixe anchor chain on it, like other nearby routes, but the hangers/chain are currently gone.
Credit: Clint Cummins
Messages 41 - 60 of total 71 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Return to Forum List
Post a Reply
 
Our Guidebooks
Check 'em out!
SuperTopo Guidebooks


Try a free sample topo!

 
SuperTopo on the Web

Review Categories
Recent Trip Report and Articles
Recent Route Beta
Recent Gear Reviews