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tuolumne_tradster
Trad climber
Leading Edge of North American Plate
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Aug 20, 2015 - 08:48am PT
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Old Original, Machete Ridge, Pinnacles
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L
climber
California dreamin' on the farside of the world..
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Aug 21, 2015 - 10:19am PT
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Great minds....rgold. I was just going to mention Yum Yum Yab! :-)
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Sierra Ledge Rat
Mountain climber
Old and Broken Down in Appalachia
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Aug 21, 2015 - 10:28am PT
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Beginner's Route Whitehorse Ledge was my first multi-pitch lead about 40 years ago.
Great White Book was my first rock-climb in California about 35 years ago.
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Wayno
Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
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Aug 21, 2015 - 10:52am PT
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The 5.6 part of the Exum on the Grand is very short. The rest is a cake walk and one of the longest "fun" routes that I've been on.
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crankster
Trad climber
No. Tahoe
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Aug 21, 2015 - 11:09am PT
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The NE Ridge of Bear Creek Spire is a lot of fun at 5.5. Not as classic as the 5.8 N. Ridge but well worth it.
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The Chief
climber
Lurkerville east of Goldenville
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Aug 21, 2015 - 11:16am PT
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If anyone has climbed here, they have done many a Classic Route under 5.5:
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Sierra Ledge Rat
Mountain climber
Old and Broken Down in Appalachia
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Aug 21, 2015 - 11:28am PT
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NE Ridge of Bear Creek Spire is a lot of fun at 5.5 When I soloed it, that ridge was class 4
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The Chief
climber
Lurkerville east of Goldenville
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Aug 21, 2015 - 02:10pm PT
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^^^^^^SLR is correct. As it was Class 4 when I first did it back in 1972. When Clyde FA'd it in 1923 and all through the late 90's (Secor 1st and 2nd Ed, Roper's ACG to The High Sierra and both ed's of Moynier/Fiddler's GB's) the route was rated at Class 4.
Beats me who upgraded it. But then that is the sign of the times.
Edit: There are many other Clyde 4th Class routes out there that are definitely stouter and more challenging then the NR of BCS that remain Class 4 to this day. Go figure.
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i'm gumby dammit
Sport climber
da ow
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Aug 21, 2015 - 02:30pm PT
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Norma's Book at COR was listed as 5.5 when we did it.
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AP
Trad climber
Calgary
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Aug 21, 2015 - 02:36pm PT
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Yes, unroped on big alpine north faces with full shank boots and a fairly heavy pack.
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NutAgain!
Trad climber
South Pasadena, CA
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Aug 21, 2015 - 03:49pm PT
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Jaybro, you get more style points for making a video in the middle of your descent and posting it to youtube and then linking in here ;)
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Aug 21, 2015 - 07:01pm PT
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Just got back from the Wham Ridge on Vestal. 21.25 miles with 7000 vertical....long day, 12 hours CTC. Fun climb with a little 5.4 which is very solo friendly.
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 21, 2015 - 08:19pm PT
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Nice Jim. Sousa like a great day. I think I would like to take u up on the black canyon day. Maybe in the spring
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surfstar
climber
Santa Barbara, CA
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Aug 21, 2015 - 08:52pm PT
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Have you climbed 5.5 or below?
Trick question.
We've attempted many 5.4 and 5.5 routes, but they all had 5.6+ moves!
The quote/captions afterwards is always "5.4 my ass"
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Sierra Ledge Rat
Mountain climber
Old and Broken Down in Appalachia
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Aug 22, 2015 - 04:16am PT
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SLR..
supertopo.com/rock-climbing/High-Sierra-Bear-Creek-Spire-Northeast-Ridge
Okay, I figured it was just another "Norman Clyde" class 4.....
I'd be lying if I said that I wasn't scared up there soloing the upper "class 4" section.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Aug 22, 2015 - 08:14am PT
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Spring it is Mike.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Aug 23, 2015 - 04:42pm PT
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Hands/fists/offwidth and rated 5.5.....sounds like a typical Seneca sandbag.
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looks easy from here
climber
Ben Lomond, CA
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Apr 21, 2017 - 02:07pm PT
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My cousin high on p2 of Tollhouse Traverse yesterday:
Since he got p2 I got the mantle. :)
Edit: Got a laugh at this Ed Hartouni line waaay upthread:
"Is it still 5.5 if you have to pull on a piece?"
that's known as cinq.cinq
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divad
Trad climber
wmass
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Apr 21, 2017 - 04:08pm PT
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When I was younger and dumber, my first trip up Boston,5.4+, at the Gunks, was a free solo. At the o/w crux, I remember that it was a bit committing. A couple of years ago, on my second ascent, on lead, I backed off at the crux because I didn't have a big enough piece of gear. Oh, the humility!
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