Wings of Steel Part III

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Messages 21 - 40 of total 83 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Russ Walling

Social climber
Same place as you, man...... (WB)
Apr 25, 2006 - 07:13pm PT
AlDude, this thing is so YOU!!!

We should get out the bleach and propane torch for the bottom of your shoes and then you can give it a go.... You my man, are just the man for the job.
caughtinside

Social climber
Davis, CA
Apr 25, 2006 - 07:15pm PT
Careful, climbing hard slab really dates you.
'Pass the Pitons' Pete

Big Wall climber
like Oakville, Ontario, Canada, eh?
Apr 25, 2006 - 07:17pm PT
Thanks, Russ. It's on order. I'll read it when I'm on the wall not climbing, which is most of the time.

You know, if you're not going to climb, going not climbing with me would be a good start...
aldude

climber
Monument Manor
Apr 25, 2006 - 07:22pm PT
Russ, We need a breakthrough in rubber technology (hint,hint Charles).Then replace exsisting holes w/real bolts. Then a crisp morning and Divine Intervention. SLAB NIRVANA! That photo rocks!
'Pass the Pitons' Pete

Big Wall climber
like Oakville, Ontario, Canada, eh?
Apr 25, 2006 - 07:29pm PT
Tom! We need a breakthrough in rubber technology! Bring on the Secret Weapon!
JuanDeFuca

Big Wall climber
Stoney Point
Apr 25, 2006 - 07:37pm PT
Gecko Rubber
'Pass the Pitons' Pete

Big Wall climber
like Oakville, Ontario, Canada, eh?
Apr 25, 2006 - 07:38pm PT
If you could get those micro-hairs to work.....
Tom

Big Wall climber
San Luis Obispo CA
Apr 26, 2006 - 02:12pm PT
There were some guys at MIT, Purdue, or similar, that were using nanohairs to produce the Gecko Effect. I think they said it would take a rather large surface area to support a person, though.

A more immediate solution might be just that: a solution, as in glue your self to the wall and use a solvent to unstick and move. 39 days to the top sounds about right.
Landgolier

climber
the flatness
Apr 26, 2006 - 05:42pm PT
Pete, I said it before, I'll say it again, with the standing record at 39 days you could bag yerself a speed record here. Sharpen them hooks!
Tom

Big Wall climber
San Luis Obispo CA
Apr 26, 2006 - 06:25pm PT
Dr. Johnson to Dr. Piton:

"That's not wall climbing, that's wall camping!"
'Pass the Pitons' Pete

Big Wall climber
like Oakville, Ontario, Canada, eh?
Apr 26, 2006 - 06:36pm PT
Damn straight it's camping. I refuse to climb any other way!

OK, so what has kept people from repeating this thang? Something about crumbly hook placements, only some of which hold body weight? Some don't?

What do you do if the edge that held those guys twenty years ago won't hold you today? Enhance it? Use a cheat stick?

Haven't some people tried the first few pitches and found them to be very hard?

The Reid guide shows two starts. What's the deal with that? Are those x's all rivets, or hooks, or enhanced hooks? Looking at the topo it looks reasonable - one A5 pitch and not too many A4. After 13 pitches you're on Aquarian.

Why did it take them so long? I mean, if *I* of all people am asking this question.....

If Tom and I go for the second ascent, will anyone help us schlepp loads? Will you think we're doin' somethin' bitchin', or doing something worthless?

And I've got the book on order, and it was shipped to Randy yesterday.

I'll confess I *am* curious.....

....my posts

... are starting ...


... to look like Ricardo's....
Russ Walling

Social climber
Same place as you, man...... (WB)
Apr 26, 2006 - 07:14pm PT
Pete sez: What do you do if the edge that held those guys twenty years ago won't hold you today? Enhance it? Use a cheat stick?

Therein lies the problem. Damned if you do, damned if you don't. Bring a jewlers loupe and hope for the best.
bringmedeath

climber
la la land
Apr 26, 2006 - 07:19pm PT
Pete, if it goes bad... suicide!
'Pass the Pitons' Pete

Big Wall climber
like Oakville, Ontario, Canada, eh?
Apr 26, 2006 - 07:21pm PT
Well, I've got one ace-in-the-hole - they say they can't find the original topo, so nobody knows what the hole count is!

"tink tink tink"

I've never enhanced a hook placement, but oh man, have I ever wanted to a few times!
Lovegasoline

Trad climber
Sh#t Hole, Brooklyn, NY
Apr 26, 2006 - 07:22pm PT
Pete, this has the makings of a magnum opus for you with its intersection of various qualities rolled into one.
Lure Chongo out of retirement, do the second ascent, stay up longer than 39 days, become a part of the controversy as well as the solver of an ancient mystery while putting a lick El Cap's elapsed time record:
If you beat the time of the FA party you get the speed record for the route; and if you take longer, you get an even prouder wall camping record (2nd place?).
Russ Walling

Social climber
Same place as you, man...... (WB)
Apr 26, 2006 - 07:28pm PT
Hey Pete:

here is what I wrote in part one.... so you don't have to part the Granite Sea to find it:

WosS FAist writes: Our "enhancements" didn't create a hole or go diagonally into the cliff. There are many enhanced hook placements on Wings of Steel, but, unlike the Sea, when you do the climb you won’t be able to tell which flakes were enhanced and which ones weren’t. **

This is the fatal flaw with the "method". If I can't tell which flakes have been ENHANCED, then am I allowed to ENHANCE my hook placements in order to do the route? How do I know I am even doing the correct route? Do I need to spend full days out on lead with a lupe just to get a legitimate ascent? Here is where it is total bullsh#t. I have been hosed by missing bat hook holes on a route and ended up bailing, only to come back to finish the route with a new topo showing the holes. It appears the same will happen to any fool who tries to do a second of WofS, and a good style ascent just may be impossible. Definining the degree of ENHANCEMENT is a silly game. The difference between we only cleaned a little with the drill, and drilling a hole is minimal in my book. I think I actually would prefer a hole with something in it. **


Then JIMB'o called me pussy and asked I would like every hook placement circled with a magic marker or something to that effect. hahahahaha!
Lovegasoline

Trad climber
Sh#t Hole, Brooklyn, NY
Apr 26, 2006 - 07:39pm PT
Do the route and pass your notes along to C. Mac for inclusion in the next edition of Supertopo BigWalls. Breath some life back into that slab.
bringmedeath

climber
la la land
Apr 26, 2006 - 07:45pm PT
ok f*#kers... keep jackin off with all this bullsh#t.
'Pass the Pitons' Pete

Big Wall climber
like Oakville, Ontario, Canada, eh?
Apr 26, 2006 - 10:07pm PT
I'm with Russ on this one. Enhancing hooks just a bit is like being just a bit pregnant. Either you drill, or you don't. You don't "clean with a drill"!

I find it hard to believe you couldn't tell what flakes had been doctored and which ones haven't, then again, it's been 20 years.

Of course, there's only one way to find out. It all sounds so silly, I really am quite curious now.
Tom

Big Wall climber
San Luis Obispo CA
Apr 27, 2006 - 02:46am PT
NostraThomas predicts that if someone doesn't go up there, on hooks, the Flatlanders will bondo holds all over the wall (paid for by ESPN) and then we'll have to deal with THAT.
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