Discussion Topic |
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Ditch Trad
Trad climber
CA
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Topic Author's Original Post - Jan 27, 2006 - 10:55am PT
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What is that, 40-45 hundred feet tall?
Discuss...
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Ksolem
Trad climber
LA, Ca
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Jan 27, 2006 - 11:20am PT
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Some say that Tehipite Dome is the largest and tallest dome in the Sierras. Others say not, as it is split in half by a ledge system one can hike across. Regardless, it is a huge, spectacular and very remote granite massif which is seldom climbed. A route called Time Warp was done in the early 60's by Freb Becky, Herb Swedlund, John Ahern and Ken Weeks. It was done free in the early 80's by Bob Harrington, Dale Bard and Dick Leversee. IV,5.9. Also the Southwest face is reported to be VI/5.9/a4 (old school?) Across the canyon of the Middle Fork to the South is the amazing Gorge of Despair.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Jan 27, 2006 - 11:26am PT
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interesting climbing topic troll... the picture is from E.C.Joe's web site...
http://www.ecjoe-vertical-logistics.com/
by Eddie himself, who has posted a long history of his activities on that particular dome.
Logistics are the key... getting water in for the climb... navigating the back country, avoiding the poison oak...
But by all accounts a worthy goal whose defenses will probably preserve it's remote big-wall feel
EDIT: OOPS, the picture on the lead thread has been edited... it was formerly the pix on E.C.Joe's website, now something else...
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Ditch Trad
Trad climber
CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 27, 2006 - 11:33am PT
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More just curious about different beta if anyone's done it. Heard it was a snake infested manz whomp to get back there.
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Nefarius
Big Wall climber
Fresno, CA
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Jan 27, 2006 - 12:36pm PT
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Everything I've read lists it as the tallest/largest. If you climb from the bottom up, why wouldn't it be? It is MUCH taller than El Cap. Why would a ledge, really no matter how large, negate this? To say this would negate most, if not all, wall climbs - places like El Cap. Ledges on most of the routes. Some of them big enough to unrope and even have parties on.
By the way, the approach to Tehipite is 18 miles or so, so what Ed said in his last line will hold true for a VERY long time.
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ablegabel
Trad climber
Livermore,Ca.
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Jan 27, 2006 - 12:48pm PT
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Think I heard that Dave Nettle put up an all free, 5.11d route up Tehipite, that takes only a standard rack of double cams to climb. The 5.11d was an offwidth though. Anybody else know anything about it ?
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bulgingpuke
Trad climber
cayucos california
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Jan 27, 2006 - 01:33pm PT
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Dude I bet scoping a line there is like picking apples at the grocery store. :)
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billygoat
climber
3hrs to El Cap Meadow, 1.25hrs Pinns, 42min Castle
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Jan 27, 2006 - 01:59pm PT
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The dome is about 3,500 feet. Totally amazing back there--like being in the Valley with no one around. There's so many lines begging to be done. The brilliant thing, is it'll always be like that. There's never gonna be a hoard of people lining up to hike the 20 miles, when El Cap is by the side of the road. That hike is brutal, too. Rolling forest and meadows until you hit the rim, and them the trail sucks (at least it did the year I did it) and it's 3,000+ feet straight down.
I don't remember the rattlesnakes, but my partner tells me there were a few. Lots of bears too.
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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Jan 28, 2006 - 01:38am PT
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Mr Leversee (seen below on Balch camp Flake) mentioned something about loose (falling?) rock, on a more recent new route attempt. anyone know more? I'd love to go out there.
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hobo
climber
PDX
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Jan 28, 2006 - 02:35am PT
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Photo caption:
" To ascend rope, put ascender on rope as in diagram A, then..."
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yo
climber
NOT Fresno
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Jan 28, 2006 - 10:50pm PT
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hahaha, good one, hobo! Looks like it's a couple minutes after 4:20, and time to get back to work.
Watch half of ST show up at Tehipite this summer.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Jan 28, 2006 - 11:03pm PT
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yo wrote: Watch half of ST show up at Tehipite this summer.
Bwahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahaha!
I don't think so....
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Jan 28, 2006 - 11:30pm PT
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E.C. sent this to me once, I don't have the attribution though, the title: "terror@20kft":
check this out too!
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Jim Hewett
climber
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Jan 29, 2006 - 12:25am PT
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Brian Cork and I spent a couple of weeks out there a few years ago. It's a full days approach, if you are strong when carrying a hundred pounds of gear and food. You can get horses if you have the money.
We camped at the base, where there is plentiful water and lots of rattlers.
We put up 12 free pitches of pretty high quality. Ratings up to .12+ with some pitches sparsely bolted with buttonheads (too heavy to carry bigger ones!). Our highest pitch still was a few pitches from the large ledge 2/3 of the way up. It is about 3,000 ft from the bottom to the top.
The approach discourages your average climber, but there is a lot more activity out there than you will read about in the magazines. I guess that's a good thing.
If anyone's really interested in going out there, I'd be happy to tell you everything I know about it.
-Jim
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Fluoride
Trad climber
on a rock or mountain out west
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Jan 29, 2006 - 03:18pm PT
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Tehipite used to be high on my list of Sierra routes to do.
However, it has some funked up stream crossings that make it really time of year dependent. In the summers it's stinking hot. And there's rattlesnakes all over the place according to everyone I know who ever attempted it.
But my most telling advice on Tehipite came from Fred Beckey himself (who did the first ascent of it). He told me "it's a son of a bitch hike in, totally not worth it. And the rock was.....eh. There's better out there, don't waste your time."
Ever since Fred told me that, Tehipite is no longer much on my list. If I'm gonna do a brutal couple day hike in with all my free and aid gear on my back, bivy, food, and all provisions, fighting off streams and rattlesnakes.....while it sounds like a tempting adventure, there's better places I can spend my time getting more done for the same ordeal.
I've got a couple of somewhat current KILLER pics of Tehipite at work that I can post tomorrow, it's very enticing to look at. I'm out in the Tree right now helping a friend assemble a desk. Til then folks.
EC Joe today is probably the best authority on the place now.
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todd-gordon
climber
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Jan 29, 2006 - 03:32pm PT
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I've heard the lines are discontinuous and the routes are broken up with ledges. At least that's what I've heard. The thing is so huge. So beautiful looking from a distance. Same thing with Angel Wings.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Jan 29, 2006 - 07:38pm PT
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nobody's mentioned the poison oak yet...
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Ouch!
climber
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Jan 29, 2006 - 07:51pm PT
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When I was young and hanging out night and day in the backcountry, I was immune to both poison oak and ivy. I would rub the leaves on my arms and I never had a minute of trouble with it. I think I must have been a mutant. Chiggers and seedticks were my bane.
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Ksolem
Trad climber
LA, Ca
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Jan 30, 2006 - 12:14am PT
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If you like real back country climbing on great rock, check out The Gorge of Despair. As a bonus you will get awesome views of Tehipite from above, looking down.
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billygoat
climber
3hrs to El Cap Meadow, 1.25hrs Pinns, 42min Castle
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Jan 30, 2006 - 01:14am PT
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"It has some funked up stream crossings that make it really time of year dependent"--true. We couldn't cross the creek coming off the falls in June. Totally fcked up shitz.
"There's rattlesnakes all over the place according to everyone I know who ever attempted it." Do as I do, not as they say.
'Fred Beckey himself told me "it's a son of a bitch hike in, totally not worth it..."' Depends on how much you like a twenty mile slog over rolling, hot, forrested, and poison oak covered hillside with a grand finale 3,000+ foot descent on shitzy ass trail. I, personally would never carry a haul bag down there.
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WBraun
climber
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Jan 30, 2006 - 01:37am PT
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George Meyers and Andy Cox went to do it in early 70's. Andy fell trying to cross the stream over a waterfall and drowned. The searchers from yosemite encountered rattlesnakes and one person was bit on the index finger while looking for Andy.
Yes it's like they say in this thread down there ......
Anyone here go that far back to knowing Andy Cox, the New York taxi cab driver who climbed El Cap in early 70's?
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Fluoride
Trad climber
on a rock or mountain out west
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Jan 30, 2006 - 07:36pm PT
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Crap, I had a whole file of great photos I'd researched and topos for Tehipite when I was planning to do it last year, I think I deleted it when it fell permanently off my to-do list. Google isn't coming up with much anymore.
BUT, here's a post I have lifted from sumitpost in the Gorge of Despair area with Tehipite in the background (and El Commandante Turret in foregrond). Yeah, Tehipite is one HUGE dome of granite. But when you weigh the pro's with the con's....the minuses for doing the thing were ultimately just too great for me to stay enthused about ever heading there. Props to whoever that is in the pic who went out there and hit the area (photo said it was taken on Cobra Turret).
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Ksolem
Trad climber
LA, Ca
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Jan 30, 2006 - 08:02pm PT
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That's me in the pic. Guy Keesee took the shot as we were descending from an ascent of the Cobra. The Gorge of Despair is worth every step of the arduos approach, by the way...
edit: PS I put together a fairly detailed set of pages on the area you can see on Summitpost, just look it up in the mountain pages if you're interested.
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Nate D
Trad climber
San Francisco
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Jan 30, 2006 - 08:08pm PT
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Been back since, Kris?
Oh, and where's Rincon?
(not that I'll ever make it to either place)
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Ksolem
Trad climber
LA, Ca
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Jan 30, 2006 - 08:16pm PT
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We made several trips in there, Guy Keesee and me that is. Also Chelsea Griffie went with us the last time. We did some FA's and also some of the established routes from the old days.
Rincon is in the southern Sierra, it's best to go with someone who knows where it is, at least first time.
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Nate D
Trad climber
San Francisco
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Jan 30, 2006 - 08:21pm PT
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"...it's best to go with someone who knows where it is, at least first time."
Good answer.
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Fluoride
Trad climber
on a rock or mountain out west
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Jan 30, 2006 - 09:01pm PT
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Hey kris, did you guys get over to Tehipite or climb mainly in the Gorge of Despair? How long did it take for the hike in to GoD?
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Ksolem
Trad climber
LA, Ca
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Jan 30, 2006 - 09:38pm PT
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Flouride,
The Gorge of Despair is best approached from near Cedar Grove, on the South Fork of the Kings River along the road. You hike up over the divide and down into the north facing hanging canyon. While you can see Tehipite right there, the deep chasm of the North Fork forms a formidable obstacle making travel from the gorge to the big dome nearly impossible.
All the beta you need to get to the Gorge of Despair is on Summitpost. Go to "Mountains" and enter the place name.
The approach could be done in a day by very fast hikers with light loads. We took two, with tons of gear. It's 12 miles, starting at around 4,000 and going over a pass at about 10,500 as I recall. Cross country the last few miles. No PO, not a lot of snakes but there's bears around.
edit: Nate, email me if you want to go some time...rincon that is.
edit: that should read "deep chasm of the middle fork..."
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Jerry Dodrill
climber
Bodega, CA
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Jan 31, 2006 - 06:50pm PT
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What would Tehipite's approach be like in winter? Seems like it would be easier, and less snakes, to ski it. Maybe the el. is too low though?
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Jerry Dodrill
climber
Bodega, CA
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Jan 31, 2006 - 07:04pm PT
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Hmmm. I like it. I've certainly gone farther around the world to climb crappy rock. Skiing would be adventurous. Has it seen a winter ascent?
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Ksolem
Trad climber
LA, Ca
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Jan 31, 2006 - 09:44pm PT
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The "normal" approach, that is hiking overland from Wishon and descending to the base of the dome, will be longer in winter as most winters they will close the road to the trailheads right at the far side of the Wishon Dam. I think this will add a few miles to the trek. Skiing in sounds like a blast.
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aldude
climber
Monument Manor
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Kris, you mean the deep chasm of the MIDDLE fork of the Kings River - right?
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Ksolem
Trad climber
LA, Ca
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Oooops. That would be right. The middle fork.
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E.C. Joe
climber
Lafayette
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You guys that haven't been there don't EVEN know the gist of it. Rumors and tales keep more for the rest of us. Go to my site www.ecjoe-vertical-logistics.com (Tehipite Dome page)to see that the stone is every bit of the Captain. "In the Niche of Time" is VI 5.10+ A4 and 20+ pitches with a 60m rope...
 ec
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Patrick Sawyer
climber
Originally California now Ireland
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EC Joe, I read your Tehipite article the other day. Sound like it was an awesome climb. But, but, but... what about the rattlers? Being around one or two makes me nervous, but if there are a bunch of them...
Lafayette? Would that be in the East Bay? The Lafayette next to Walnut Creek? Lafayette and Walnut Creek are my old stomping grounds (Lafayette Elementary, Fairview Intermediate and Del Valle HS).
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E.C. Joe
climber
Lafayette
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Yeah, I have been trying to dig out a living in the EB. The rattlers can be an issue. However, the big flood the January that Yosemite got wiped out, T Valley did as well. It seems as if the place was literally washed of snakes (and landscape)when I last visited, the spring after the flood.
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lucho
Gym climber
San Franpsycho
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Hey E.C. Joe does that email work from your ST profile, I had some questions about the southern sierra climbing and some of the stuff you've done and places you've been.
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E.C. Joe
climber
Lafayette
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Lucho,
Yeah, it is the same. Launch one my way.
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alpinist
Trad climber
tahoe city
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Feb 10, 2006 - 01:34pm PT
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My climbing amigo Brandon told me about this recent thread going on about Tehipite and I can't resist tossing in a few tidbits as well. The general "feel" of all the comments I read are that it is a brutal hike, infested with snakes, and although big not worth it cuz it's discontinuous...Hmmm. While Tehipite will certainly never be a busy "crag" because it IS a full value objective here are a few of MY personal thoughts that I hope will encourage a few hearty souls.
One of the threads speculated that establishing new lines on Tehipite is probably like picking apples at the grocery store...unfortunately, there are actually not a ton of continuous systems on the main wall and they will be more like trying to pick an apple from the end of the top branch without a ladder. It's also very hard to get a good angle to see the main wall except from across the valley (and raging river) but that's another story...
The approach to the top of the dome is a liesurely and beautiful 15 mile hike. Our route "The Wall of Ages" 2001-5.11+, A0 24 pitches)Can be approached from the top by rappeling the route. You scramble down a gully to the main ledge that divides the upper dome from the main lower face and begin the rappels there. On our final ascent of the whole route we did the rappel and climbed the route in a day. The route WAS established from the ground up and you certainly get bonus points and some character building opportunities for doing it that way if you wish. Although I never saw a snake on the ground up approach it sure looked like a place that snakes would love. If one is not inclined to commit to the single push you can descend to a spacious ledge system with water and bivy gear, drop it off, continue the rappels to the base then climb about 13 pitches back to the ledge. It is another 5 steep pitches to the main ledge where you can drop off the haul bag, then another 6 pitches (that you don't want to haul on!) up the final dome to the top. On our final push we left some water at various points along the way as we descended to the start of the route.
If you're into scouting things out before jumping in (I think they call that common sense though I can't speak from personal experience)you could hike in for a 3 day recon with a light pack and rack and just climb the 6-8 pitch upper dome which has many beautiful routes that stand alone by their own right.
It is possible to hire pack horses but he will only take you as far as Crown Creek (or maybe 30 minutes beyond to a nice campsite with water if you beg him!) There is a nice creek that is running most of the year (if its dry its probably hotter than you want to climb there anyway) that you cross just before dropping into the west approach gully. Take the time to dial in the approach and cache your rack etc, then come back the next day early.
The climbing is fantastic and the setting is amazing. The line is direct, sustained, varied, well protected and there are no "filler" pitches of scrambling that often crop up on long backcountry routes. Be sure to bring at least a few BIG cams up to the new C4 Camalot size 6 for the attention-getting OW near the start of the route.
There's no doubt that for Tehipite (and most of the long Sierra backcountry gems) you gotta love a lot of walking, adventure and challenging trad climbing, but then again who wouldn't?!
Cheers!
Dave Nettle
by the way the name "Wall of Ages" was a tongue in cheeck jab at the age spread and decade representation of the crew who were involved in establishing the route: Scott Thelen was the teens, Brandon Thau was the twenties, John Fehrman was the thirties and I (gulp) was the forties.
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Nate D
climber
San Francisco
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Feb 10, 2006 - 05:32pm PT
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I don't rank as a "hearty soul", but thanks for sharing this info Dave. Dare I ask if you have any photos (for those of us who mostly adventure vicariously), or do they reside on the web somewhere already?
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rincon
Trad climber
SoCal
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Tehipite bump!
Wonder if "Wall of Ages" ever got a repeat?
Or any of of the routes out there?, new routes?
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justin01
Trad climber
sacramento
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Since this has been started, I have been in there twice, but neither time for climbing. Thought I would share my experiences on this place.
The first time was on a m. kings kayaking trip from Bishop pass out to pine flat reservoir. Epic to say the least. We spent a night below that beast, and caught countless 12+ in trout on a handline and spinner. Fried em up on a flat rock over a fire…no butter/seasoning, and so delicious. From that trip, that valley climbed my list to one of, if not, my favorite places in the sierras. The Dome is so unbelievably massive; the valley is pristine; the camping is sandy perfection; You will not see another soul; the Gorge of Despair is ominous (with all the drama in the name, it does not do it justice). And yes there are snakes, but just don’t screw with them and you should be good to go. We walked by five on the river bank when we pulled up in our boats, and I didn’t unpack my sleeping bag until bed. Granted my dreams were more tortured with drowning in the bottom 9 (the following day of boating). Snakes seemed benign by comparison.
I hiked back in with my wife the following year from the Rancheria TH. We routinely log big mile days in the sierras, but that hike in was pretty brutal (we did get a bit off trail, the pathetic trail that is there got burned out at one point). The drop into the canyon was more painful going down then the return up. We did it in a day, but we were wiped when we got down to the river. We spent the next day fishing, with poles this time, in the side creeks because the kings was raging. You could catch your limit in an hour, and I am a terrible fisherman (meps all the way). You could subsist on the fish down there. On that trip we did not see a single snake, so go figure, and both were at nearly the same time of year.
I think on a return trip I would like to drop down the gorge of despair into the valley, a sort of high sierra canyoneering adventure.
One more thought, on my Kayak trip, we were forced to carry our 100 lbs of kayak and gear (using jury rigged pack systems) over bishop pass and down into leconte canyon. That was really no big deal especially when I consider the pain in lugging a 100lb haul bag into tehipite valley. This would be an approach most would not quickly recover from.
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nutjob
Gym climber
Berkeley, CA
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Wow Justin, I can't really picture hauling a Kayak over Bishop Pass. That is dedication. The entire trip is pretty far out from my sense of the possible/probable. It sounds like an amazing adventure! I'd love to see a TR of that.
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Radish
Trad climber
SeKi, California
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The ultimate wilderness bigwall climbing trip. Pic shows just the upper half of the dome with the "ledge" at the base.We had a fire up there a few years ago and got some pics from the heli.
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justin01
Trad climber
sacramento
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Nutjob,
Yeah crossing the sierra by boat was definitely a highpoint in my outdoor endeavors, and a low point at the same time. It is wild to get on a river with 150 cfs and take off with 4000cfs. You see the whole drainage and all the majestic canyons along the way.
I sadly did not take a camera on the trip...but this outstanding trip report (written by a really good photographer) was from the week after my buddy and I got off it.
http://www.kayakphoto.com/darinmcquoid/middlekings.html
So it is pretty indicative of our trip, the only difference is we had a touch more water and they skipped the last 10 miles of class V and hiked out of the canyon (not really sure why folks do that). Some pictures of tehipite are on his last page.
Looking at that last one everyday makes me want to climb it so badly. But I think it would be a multiyear expedition of a challenge, and I am not yet up to it. Its good to have goals though. This valley left an indelible mark on me.
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tom woods
Gym climber
Bishop, CA
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In that last shot, Tehipite looks a lot wider than shots from below.
As for Becky saying that there is bad rock, Becky routes always have bad rock. His eye gravitates toward quantity, not necessarily quality. He just wants to get up the thing and get moving to the next 700 climbs he has in mind.
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justin01
Trad climber
sacramento
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Tom, thats how I remember it...but maybe I have been staring at the picture for too long.
That whole canyon has a pretty vertical wall on both sides. Some incuts and gorges here and there, but a lot of vertical granite. I am sure there are countless bigwall lines up and down that valley.
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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Great thread.
Hey, sorry to be a kook but,
How do you pronounce Tehipite?
Teh-hee-pee-teh?
Looks epic.
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justin01
Trad climber
sacramento
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micronut...you are on fire! Great video.
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mojede
Trad climber
Butte, America
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3:05 is pretty cool, too...
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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That video is fantastic!!
FWIW my Gorge of Despair stuff, with Guy Keesee's great photos is now up on Mountainproject here.
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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Thanks skully.
I always thought people where talking about Tehachapi and I was like wtf there's no wall there.
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Captain...or Skully
climber
or some such
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Tiny Tehachapi walls? Hehehe.
Whole 'nuther World, bro. I'd go there. It's fricken worthy.
Badass, even. Cheers!
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justin01
Trad climber
sacramento
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best whitewater in the world...and dare I say, the best mountain range too...
That may piss off the CO posters here, but come on. How can you not be passionate seeing this kind of stuff?
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micronut
Trad climber
fresno, ca
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nice work mojede!
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justin01
Trad climber
sacramento
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yeah...how can you say no to that dome.
This is my favorite thread by far.
I have spent the last 7 years boating all over this naturally blessed state, and now I am only just really getting into climbing full time. Aside from skiing of course.
Looking at that wall everyday makes me think of the possibilities.
I guess I have to climb a big wall first before I am ready for tehipite...
Salathe anyone?
In due time.
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micronut
Trad climber
fresno, ca
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Sooooo Big. Found these on The WerldWideWeb.
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rincon
Trad climber
SoCal
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Awesome pictures and the airplane tour of Tehipte Valley is priceless, TFPU!!
And the Kayaking is mind blowing!
I used to kayak the easy little "Banzai" run, which is the last 9 miles before it hits Pine Flat reservoir. The thing that always struck me about the Kings was the clarity of the water. On glassy flat sections, you get the feeling of floating in the air as the river bottom glides beneath your boat.
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mooch
Trad climber
Old Climbers' Home (Adopted)
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I'm with you F.....pass on Tehipite. And the rattler feedback is gospel too. Got it from a friend who was out there a few years back. Said they encountered at least a half dozen in a 2 mile spread. All close encounter. Having done Castle Rock Spire....this approach ranks right up there (with a longer approach of course). Not a big fan of buzz worms!
Kris -
Yep, GOD is on the list for 2012. Can't wait!
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JEleazarian
Trad climber
Fresno CA
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As Flouride mentioned five years ago, getting there depends on stream crossings, which are still iffy right now. In addition, my experience has been that rattlesnake encounters increase in heavy snowfall years, like this one, and particularly in remote areas like Tehipite Valley.
Still, it is one of the most adventurous, remote and beautiful places to climb in the Sierra.
John
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Fat Dad
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
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Yep, GOD is on the list for 2012. Can't wait! I feel like I should know what "GOD" stands for but don't. What is it?
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JEleazarian
Trad climber
Fresno CA
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Gorge of Despair. God made everything on the list. ;-)
John
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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These stills don't hold a candle to the aerials upthread, but I sure am glad that Mr Keesee lugged his camera in on our trips. Yes, when you get to GOD you will think you died and went to heaven.
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Fat Dad
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
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Gorge of Despair. God made everything on the list. ;-) Duh. I knew it would be something obvious. Thanks.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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In the back of the same Ascent, this Chuck Kroger route description for his route on Tehipite Dome.
A bolt-less Grade VI!
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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…Then, early in July, the three of us returned to the valley floor with more hardware, food, women and water bottles.
FACT: CLASSIC!
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ec
climber
ca
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After going in the first time, it was more than obvious we would be in over our heads. We needed way more water bottles and hardware than we had shlepped in. Never figured in the women factor though. Props to Chuck & crew. I know what it took to pull it off.
ec
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Inner City
Trad climber
East Bay
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Wow, this thread is unbelievably good!
I love reading these stories and seeing the video of the kayak trip! Wholly backcountry wonder. 100 pound packs were not even the most daunting part of that trip. Heck climbing packs wouldn't be that heavy...would they?
Justin, 'nut, Steve and all of you, thanks for something like this that really draws me in to this virtual campfire.
I also have a question. I'd like to do an east west hiking traverse of this area. Does the Bishop Pass to Kings Canyon Road's end (or proximity) make sense as a fun canyoneering route? Any tips or thoughts or different options would be appreciated. I've got the horrendous car shuttle covered. Reading Secor on the subject is intriguing but doesn't describe the best East to West option, I don't think..?
Super Duper Topo! A special thread!
Dave Reid
Berkeley CA
5.5 leader or former weekender/phat Dad
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guyman
Trad climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Most excellent thread. Big Country!
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ec
climber
ca
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micronut,
That video was great! Not exactly sure, but I do think that your bud violated the Wilderness Act by flying in there...
ec
edit: I had this friend of mine fly us over from Livermore in this Cessna 172. I had planned for him to go in like that so I could take pics. When we reached the rim, he wasn't ready for the view of the chasm and said, "What the f*ck is that!" We flew a couple of times, but he wouldn't go in; it freaked him out. So, I unbolted the strut to the window and hung out and took as many shots for recon as I could...
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ec
climber
ca
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Aug 16, 2011 - 08:51pm PT
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The 2011 AAJ is out. 'small blurb on the new route, 'Tehipite Sanction' and a great pic with the current routes overlayed on it...
ec
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Scott Thelen
Trad climber
Truckee, Ca
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Aug 17, 2011 - 10:00pm PT
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All I recall is geting eaten alive by red ant's and a bear that took my gallon of wiskey while we were on the route for five days.
It's still worth the hike.
Thanks for hooking it up Mr. Big
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Sonic
Trad climber
Roaming the South, Merica
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Info BUMP!!!
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HighTraverse
Trad climber
Bay Area
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Was talking with Curt Chadwick this summer. What Kroger doesn't say in his report is the key role the women played.
And I don't mean THAT role, or at least Curt didn't mention it in the presence of his wife.
The women helped haul the whole catastrophe into the canyon, had sustenance and water waiting for the men when they got back to camp. And generally made the entire trip more endurable. They were tough ladies and were an excellent support team.
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McHale's Navy
Trad climber
Panorama City, California & living in Seattle
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Others say not, as it is split in half by a ledge system one can hike across.
Maybe somebody could 'chip' the ledge system away?
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Kalimon
Trad climber
Ridgway, CO
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ec BUMP!
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Captain...or Skully
climber
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Now THAT'S a place to spend several weeks. Big Fat Worthy Rock.
That's what it's all about. To me, anyway.
Man.
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cultureshock
Trad climber
Mountain View
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May 13, 2013 - 06:47pm PT
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Bump!
When does Tehipite get too hot?
I assume it would be no fun in early july...
I'm guessing September might be ideal?
Luke
(1) South Face/Time Warp (Beckey-Swedlund & Ahern-Weeks, 1963; FFA Bard-Harrington-Leversee, 1983). (2) Southwest Face (Chadwick-Kroger-Weeden, 1970). (3) Too Hip (Felton-Leversee, 1996). (4) In the Niche of Time (Felton-Joe-Zielsky, 1997). (5) Wall of Ages (Fehrman-Nettle-Sweeney-Thau, 2001). (6) Tehipite Sanction (Brumbaugh-Menitove-Pizem, 2010). Jay Wilkerson
Photo of the Tehipite Sanction. Looks like they took the In the Niche of Time to finish.
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ec
climber
ca
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May 13, 2013 - 08:04pm PT
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Nice! I saw that out there...cool TIAD!
ec
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Brandon-
climber
The Granite State.
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May 13, 2013 - 08:25pm PT
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It's formations like Tehphite(sp?) that make me want to be a stronger climber.
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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May 13, 2013 - 09:14pm PT
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It's formations like Tehipite that make me want to be a stronger hiker. ;-0
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Powder
Trad climber
the Flower Box
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May 13, 2013 - 09:23pm PT
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It's formations like Tephite that make me want to be a stronger climber AND backpacker.... @_@ :O
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limpingcrab
Trad climber
the middle of CA
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Oct 14, 2013 - 11:24am PT
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Bump because I was on it yesterday and reeeeeaaally want to climb it, the rock looked so good! No rangers to enforce a shutdown here...
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PAUL SOUZA
Trad climber
Central Valley, CA
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Oct 14, 2013 - 11:31am PT
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DUDE!!!!!!!!
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Powder
Trad climber
the Flower Box
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Oct 14, 2013 - 11:40am PT
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D**n How did I spell it incorrectly without being aware of it...??! Tephite!????!!!!! That doesn't even look close.....
This is so embarrassing..... ~~~>_<~~~
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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Oct 14, 2013 - 12:13pm PT
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BAM! and DOUBLE BAM!
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Oct 14, 2013 - 01:08pm PT
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NICE..... you boys do a new route???
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micronut
Trad climber
Fresno/Clovis, ca
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Oct 14, 2013 - 01:59pm PT
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Rimping Clab you EVA-WEE-WHERE!!!!
You clazy for big crimb!!!!
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limpingcrab
Trad climber
the middle of CA
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Oct 14, 2013 - 04:05pm PT
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No we didn't have time to climb this trip, just hiked spanish mountain and tehipite over the weekend to scope stuff out and explore. I want to climb Tehipite but all the other formations in that valley were what I was there to see!
Also, couldn't find the rap anchors to Astro-Gil... That was the original goal but I couldn't get Friday off :(
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Sheets
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Oct 14, 2013 - 06:31pm PT
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Jeez, pretty cool looking. Meant to go out there this fall to check out the approach but so far it hasn't happened.
Anything else in that valley to climb?
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ec
climber
ca
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Oct 14, 2013 - 06:47pm PT
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I musta been dyslexic when writing the description: Shoulda said, "left of the 1970 Kroger Route. Anyway, I bet it's the steepest bigwall in the Sierra backcountry.
ec
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mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
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Oct 14, 2013 - 06:51pm PT
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I bet it's the steepest bigwall in the Sierra backcountry.
Coming from you EC, that's worth sloggin back there for a mortal/aid route.
BIG ASS STONE.
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ec
climber
ca
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Oct 14, 2013 - 07:21pm PT
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That IS, one BIG ASS Stone!
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limpingcrab
Trad climber
the middle of CA
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Oct 14, 2013 - 08:12pm PT
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Anything else in that valley to climb?
LOTS! Normally I wouldn't post my prospects for all the world to see but there's an eternity of now routes to be had out there. It's like a smaller version of Yosemite with only a few routes on El Cap and nothing else has been climbed. Not to mention the obelisk, hoffman mountain, finger peak, kettle dome, crown rock, tombstone ridge, gorge of despair and all the other pretty chunks of rock within sight of Tehipite!
So little time...
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Sheets
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Oct 14, 2013 - 08:58pm PT
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Cool. That was my impression of the Angel Wings area--so much rock! Now I really need to go down there.
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Rudbud
Gym climber
Grover Beach, CA
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Oct 14, 2013 - 10:30pm PT
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I need a partner for Tehipite in the spring if anyone is interested, im also interested in putting up a new route. Im down to split the cost on a mule too. Astro Gill looks good, im up for repeating any free climb just for starters. Get ahold of me.
Tom
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limpingcrab
Trad climber
the middle of CA
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Oct 14, 2013 - 10:57pm PT
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Looking for other partners, does this mean you've given up on me Tom!?
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ec
climber
ca
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Oct 15, 2013 - 12:31pm PT
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Oct 15, 2013 - 12:50pm PT
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Nice shots EC....
(not the Guy in photo)
So little time...
True that.... so did you get a good look at the stuff EAST of the GOD???
And Crab... is the Jeep Road still working??? I have always wondered about that one.
I had some friends who skied and hiked down into the Middle Fork, in Febuary for 10 days, they did some short craging and told me "Its like YV only no people... and lots of NA stuff to see.
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ec
climber
ca
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Oct 15, 2013 - 12:55pm PT
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Prior to climbing the Big T, I had this acquaintance fly his Cessna into the valley. When we initially breached the ridge into the valley, he freaked, as he didn't expect the drop. I hung out of the window and took photos of all the immense walls there.
ec
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limpingcrab
Trad climber
the middle of CA
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Oct 15, 2013 - 02:30pm PT
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Really cool shots ec! What's up with the vertical20 site, you ever gonna get it back up?
so did you get a good look at the stuff EAST of the GOD??? Ya, that canyon looked awesome too but a lot harder to get around in. I've looked down into it from the east also and it was gnarly. It would be cool to climb the whole north ridge of el commandante turret.
is the Jeep Road still working??? Haven't done it myself. A friend who came last weekend did it last year in his stock toyota tacoma and made it with only one flat tire and one dent :) He said it was rough. I though about skiing in, that would be a great adventure and I was wondering if anyone did that.
I hung out of the window and took photos of all the immense walls there. Oooh I'd love to see those photos! I'm saving for a powered paraglider and then I'll have all the scouting photos I can ever want!
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ec
climber
ca
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Oct 15, 2013 - 03:47pm PT
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Ron and I did the jeep road once. 'Pretty serious in a regular pick-up w/ 4WD.
ec
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Oct 15, 2013 - 04:20pm PT
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The rock there looks like choss, and not much climbing. Canyouguysletthisthreaddiealreadyforf*#kssake!?!?!
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PAUL SOUZA
Trad climber
Central Valley, CA
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Oct 15, 2013 - 05:35pm PT
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^^For realz!!
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ec
climber
ca
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Oct 16, 2013 - 12:26pm PT
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show some Tehipite Love...
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Inner City
Trad climber
East Bay
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Oct 16, 2013 - 03:22pm PT
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I think a descent of that Gorge of Despair as a canyoneering adventure sounds like a spectacular way to approach that remote valley.
Anyone done this?
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limpingcrab
Trad climber
the middle of CA
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Oct 16, 2013 - 04:07pm PT
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One unconfirmed descent of the GOD, but after looking at it for a couple hours I'm not sure I believe it's been done...
Terrible approach, once you start there's no turning back and some of those drops look reaaaaaaally big.
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looks easy from here
climber
Ben Lomond, CA
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Jul 24, 2015 - 11:15pm PT
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^^^Any confirmation on that GOD descent one way or the other? Or has there been a more recent successful effort?
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High Fructose Corn Spirit
Gym climber
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Jul 28, 2018 - 05:43pm PT
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re: descent/ascent of Gorge of Despair
re: traverse crossing from Harrington to Tehipite
So any update on this?
Ksolem? Ec? limpingcrab?
So both seem worthy adventurous projects: (1) Ascent or descent of GOD from/to Tehipite Valley; (2) A crossing from Harrington (access to SR180) to Tehipite (Valley, Dome).
Anyone with update or general beta on these?
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High Fructose Corn Spirit
Gym climber
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Jul 28, 2018 - 08:38pm PT
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Hooblie, thanks for the link, very relevant.
What I've learned over the years is that a lot of climbers are mainly climbers while some others are more or less equally climbers and mountaineers.
I think a lot of mountaineering explorer types, if they found themselves up the GOD, most esp after several occasions, would feel compelled to investigate the whole of it top to bottom.
I've never been there. But recently I've been hearing about it, and I've been researching it some, for a possible project. I think it would be sweet to link a Cedar Grove area trailhead, via Mt Harrington and GOD to Tehipite Dome and then to Wishon R.
Most likely not all at once initially. Not with all the exploring to be had. But after a time or two or three maybe. At some point, maybe some climbing too. :)
[Click to View YouTube Video]
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mbKMW5T2uTs
Later this week, hope to inquire more.
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JerryA
Mountain climber
Sacramento,CA
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Jul 29, 2018 - 08:24am PT
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Hiked the 28 miles from the Rancheria Trailhead near Wishon Reservoir to the summit of Tehipite Dome with a Sierra Club group years ago . There are few places in the Sierra that feel as remote and the views are great. Bob Burd has posted a very good online report of the hike .
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limpingcrab
Trad climber
the middle of CA
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Jul 29, 2018 - 11:12am PT
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I forgot the details and who I was talking to but basically I talked to someone who’s dad or friend descended the GOD down to the river. Had lots of details and I remember believing the person.
That’s probably not the most descriptive or helpful info but long story short I do think it was actually descended. It would be awesome to do
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Jul 29, 2018 - 11:33am PT
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Les Wilson, his son Chris, and Gus Benner. They came over Harrington Pass, descended the GOD, and went downriver to Yucca Point. Hiked up, retrieved stashed bikes, and rode back up to camp.
I met Les and Gus at Berkely Ironworks when I did a slide show there one year ago last May. He took interest in my Gorge of Despair pics and routes.
Some folks at the gym who know those guys say they are still getting out there, adventuring and thrashing the gnar.
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