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Ditch Trad

Trad climber
Topic Author's Original Post - Jan 27, 2006 - 07:55am PT

What is that, 40-45 hundred feet tall?


Trad climber
LA, Ca
Jan 27, 2006 - 08:20am PT
Some say that Tehipite Dome is the largest and tallest dome in the Sierras. Others say not, as it is split in half by a ledge system one can hike across. Regardless, it is a huge, spectacular and very remote granite massif which is seldom climbed. A route called Time Warp was done in the early 60's by Freb Becky, Herb Swedlund, John Ahern and Ken Weeks. It was done free in the early 80's by Bob Harrington, Dale Bard and Dick Leversee. IV,5.9. Also the Southwest face is reported to be VI/5.9/a4 (old school?) Across the canyon of the Middle Fork to the South is the amazing Gorge of Despair.
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Jan 27, 2006 - 08:26am PT
interesting climbing topic troll... the picture is from E.C.Joe's web site...
by Eddie himself, who has posted a long history of his activities on that particular dome.

Logistics are the key... getting water in for the climb... navigating the back country, avoiding the poison oak...

But by all accounts a worthy goal whose defenses will probably preserve it's remote big-wall feel

EDIT: OOPS, the picture on the lead thread has been edited... it was formerly the pix on E.C.Joe's website, now something else...

Ditch Trad

Trad climber
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 27, 2006 - 08:33am PT
More just curious about different beta if anyone's done it. Heard it was a snake infested manz whomp to get back there.
P.J. Nolen

Trad climber
Paso Robles
Jan 27, 2006 - 08:57am PT
Some great photos at-
Nice one of Carol Snyder belaying Dennis Richards on crux move on summit.


Big Wall climber
Fresno, CA
Jan 27, 2006 - 09:36am PT
Everything I've read lists it as the tallest/largest. If you climb from the bottom up, why wouldn't it be? It is MUCH taller than El Cap. Why would a ledge, really no matter how large, negate this? To say this would negate most, if not all, wall climbs - places like El Cap. Ledges on most of the routes. Some of them big enough to unrope and even have parties on.

By the way, the approach to Tehipite is 18 miles or so, so what Ed said in his last line will hold true for a VERY long time.

Trad climber
Jan 27, 2006 - 09:48am PT
Think I heard that Dave Nettle put up an all free, 5.11d route up Tehipite, that takes only a standard rack of double cams to climb. The 5.11d was an offwidth though. Anybody else know anything about it ?

Trad climber
cayucos california
Jan 27, 2006 - 10:33am PT
Dude I bet scoping a line there is like picking apples at the grocery store. :)

3hrs to El Cap Meadow, 1.25hrs Pinns, 42min Castle
Jan 27, 2006 - 10:59am PT
The dome is about 3,500 feet. Totally amazing back there--like being in the Valley with no one around. There's so many lines begging to be done. The brilliant thing, is it'll always be like that. There's never gonna be a hoard of people lining up to hike the 20 miles, when El Cap is by the side of the road. That hike is brutal, too. Rolling forest and meadows until you hit the rim, and them the trail sucks (at least it did the year I did it) and it's 3,000+ feet straight down.

I don't remember the rattlesnakes, but my partner tells me there were a few. Lots of bears too.

Social climber
The West
Jan 27, 2006 - 10:38pm PT
Mr Leversee (seen below on Balch camp Flake) mentioned something about loose (falling?) rock, on a more recent new route attempt. anyone know more? I'd love to go out there.


Jan 27, 2006 - 11:35pm PT
Photo caption:

" To ascend rope, put ascender on rope as in diagram A, then..."

NOT Fresno
Jan 28, 2006 - 07:50pm PT
hahaha, good one, hobo! Looks like it's a couple minutes after 4:20, and time to get back to work.

Watch half of ST show up at Tehipite this summer.
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Jan 28, 2006 - 08:03pm PT
yo wrote: Watch half of ST show up at Tehipite this summer.


I don't think so....
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Jan 28, 2006 - 08:30pm PT
E.C. sent this to me once, I don't have the attribution though, the title: "terror@20kft":

check this out too!
Jim Hewett

Jan 28, 2006 - 09:25pm PT
Brian Cork and I spent a couple of weeks out there a few years ago. It's a full days approach, if you are strong when carrying a hundred pounds of gear and food. You can get horses if you have the money.
We camped at the base, where there is plentiful water and lots of rattlers.
We put up 12 free pitches of pretty high quality. Ratings up to .12+ with some pitches sparsely bolted with buttonheads (too heavy to carry bigger ones!). Our highest pitch still was a few pitches from the large ledge 2/3 of the way up. It is about 3,000 ft from the bottom to the top.
The approach discourages your average climber, but there is a lot more activity out there than you will read about in the magazines. I guess that's a good thing.
If anyone's really interested in going out there, I'd be happy to tell you everything I know about it.

Trad climber
on a rock or mountain out west
Jan 29, 2006 - 12:18pm PT
Tehipite used to be high on my list of Sierra routes to do.

However, it has some funked up stream crossings that make it really time of year dependent. In the summers it's stinking hot. And there's rattlesnakes all over the place according to everyone I know who ever attempted it.

But my most telling advice on Tehipite came from Fred Beckey himself (who did the first ascent of it). He told me "it's a son of a bitch hike in, totally not worth it. And the rock was.....eh. There's better out there, don't waste your time."

Ever since Fred told me that, Tehipite is no longer much on my list. If I'm gonna do a brutal couple day hike in with all my free and aid gear on my back, bivy, food, and all provisions, fighting off streams and rattlesnakes.....while it sounds like a tempting adventure, there's better places I can spend my time getting more done for the same ordeal.

I've got a couple of somewhat current KILLER pics of Tehipite at work that I can post tomorrow, it's very enticing to look at. I'm out in the Tree right now helping a friend assemble a desk. Til then folks.

EC Joe today is probably the best authority on the place now.

Jan 29, 2006 - 12:32pm PT
I've heard the lines are discontinuous and the routes are broken up with ledges. At least that's what I've heard. The thing is so huge. So beautiful looking from a distance. Same thing with Angel Wings.
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Jan 29, 2006 - 04:38pm PT
nobody's mentioned the poison oak yet...

Jan 29, 2006 - 04:51pm PT
When I was young and hanging out night and day in the backcountry, I was immune to both poison oak and ivy. I would rub the leaves on my arms and I never had a minute of trouble with it. I think I must have been a mutant. Chiggers and seedticks were my bane.

Trad climber
LA, Ca
Jan 29, 2006 - 09:14pm PT
If you like real back country climbing on great rock, check out The Gorge of Despair. As a bonus you will get awesome views of Tehipite from above, looking down.
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