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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Feb 18, 2017 - 09:02pm PT
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Classic placement!
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7SacredPools
Trad climber
Ontario, Canada
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Feb 18, 2017 - 09:15pm PT
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I always carry a black, pink and red.
Often they're more secure than any camming device, especially if the pocket or horizontal is dirty or low friction. I'd place them more frequently but seconds usually need two hands to free them.
The new style tapered Evo's are easier to clean and place one handed.
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tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
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Feb 19, 2017 - 02:34am PT
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if i climbed someplace whre there were pockets like that I would break the dust off them. maybe......
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Flydude
Trad climber
Prather, CA
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Feb 21, 2017 - 05:53pm PT
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Yeah, I think I stole that biner from you in '78...didn't think, you'd miss it
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dee ee
Mountain climber
Of THIS World (Planet Earth)
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Aug 11, 2017 - 09:53am PT
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Never saw the need. And yes, I too must have missed the critical placement on the Magic Mushroom and at Courtright.
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Aug 11, 2017 - 12:45pm PT
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I did a route near the top of the Palm Springs Tram, we called it “Corner’s Report.” A key piece of protection is a medium sized ball-nut. Nothing else will work, but the ball-nut is 100% bomber.
I put the tricams in the same category as those ball-nuts; an elegant design that shines in placements where more normal gear won’t work. In other words specialty gear. I think they are way funky in crack placements where an SLCD will be much more stable and therefore more reliable.
Stand and Deliver at Josh was mentioned up-thread. There’s a horizontal after the second bolt (I should say where the second bolt used to be before some vandal chopped it) which is dicey to rock up onto for the next clip. A yellow TCU and pink Tricam set next to each other protect that well. Neither piece looks good alone but they stabilize each other. But I’m prolly just a wimp for wanting pro there 😊
edit: It was apparently a red one as this evidence shows...
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