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Toker Villain

Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
Jan 27, 2006 - 12:25am PT
The 6th ascent was May '76, Kauk, Graham, Bachar

Rumor was John was freaked at the exposure. That summer he walked up to me at Komito's and said," So! Did you do the Shield?"
I said, "Yes"
He said,"You're a f*#king liar!"

Ten minutes later he was back. "You never soloed the Shield."
"Never said I did. You asked me if I climbed it."
"Yeah, but you didn't solo it."

I suppose I had my brash moments as well.
Gramicci

Social climber
Ventura
Jan 27, 2006 - 12:25am PT
Werner, now I have Alzheimer’s on that east butt climb. I beleive you and dale did the 4th ascent?

Ron, stranger than fiction this must be the missing link I thought for sure Tobin had done it right after us (5th). I believe I may have a shot of that very rope tied off at the top of that pitch. That was definitely the season for that climb. Never though that rope was rigged for reverse engineering only. Wow! So the story could be true. That could have been quite a ripper. You probably would have hear the screams all the way to Utah. Twice

Hear the route goes clean now, yet people still want to pound sawed off angles into it.

I still remember putting 9 rurps in a row in the grove amonst the fixed and of the 35 porter put in.

What a place!
Toker Villain

Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
Jan 27, 2006 - 12:44am PT
I fixed the first cabled rurps on it and then showed the remainder to Yvon. His subsequent cables were thinner though.

Didn't heard any screams, but then I was in Colorado and thats a bit farther...
Largo

Sport climber
Venice, Ca
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 27, 2006 - 12:44am PT
I didn't get around to doing the Shield till 1977 but even then--and moreso now--I can't imagine just slapping the jugs on some phantom rope and start chugging over the Roof. I swear Tobin is the only person who would ever consider doing that.

JL
Gramicci

Social climber
Ventura
Jan 27, 2006 - 12:54am PT
Na, John wasn’t freaked he had already done trip the season before. Could have been me being the third man out one of us had to free jumar. I thought I’d have a little fun and I kicked myself off the wall for a little extra swing! OMG when I finial stopped swinging I took this shot of Kauk laughing at me.

Point of the photo here. There is the infamous rope tied off just as Werner described it

WBraun

climber
Jan 27, 2006 - 12:56am PT
Hey Mike where the phuck is Bachar now? I know for sure he's lurking, common John, post up!

:-)
Toker Villain

Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
Jan 27, 2006 - 12:59am PT
Surprised you got the photo.

That's how Trevor found the rope (but not how he left it.)
Toker Villain

Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
Jan 27, 2006 - 01:02am PT
I suspect he'll be in Utah this weekend.
Gramicci

Social climber
Ventura
Jan 27, 2006 - 01:05am PT
Yeah, Werner its the good ole Outdoor retailer show this weekend. going myself tomorrow.

bye

WBraun

climber
Jan 27, 2006 - 01:06am PT
Say hi to all the bros for me, Mike

And about that Sheild, it don't matter if one did the first ascent or the last. That's one hell of a wild place to hang around for a while.
can't say

Social climber
Pasadena CA
Jan 27, 2006 - 07:57am PT
Joe, that's a no-brainer. It's EEEEEEEEEEEErickson. He was also the guy holding the rope when Tobin led The Edge. I think it left an impression on the poor boy..LOL

It seems there were only a few guys who have been tagged with the original moniker of Stonemaster. Since the only qualification was to lead Valhala at Suicide, there were many folks who would be considered Stonemasters but not part of that inner clique. But back then (I arrived on the scene in 76) there were quite a few folks who had led it by then and didn't seem to be part of that inner clique. At least that's my take on it. So, lets see who was in that first tier group.

1st tier Stonemaster roll call, and you guys please correct me if I am wrong or omitted anyone

John Long
Mike Graham
Ricky Accomazzo
Tobin Sorenson
Richard Harrison
Jim Wilson
John Bachar
Gib Lewis
Bill Antel
Rob Muir
Erik Eriksson

Once these guys started showing up at in the Valley, the name sort of became synonymous with both the No Cal guys and So Cal guys.
mastadon

Trad climber
Seattle
Jan 27, 2006 - 09:54am PT
Werner,

The beauty of Alzheimers is that you're always making new friends.

I think it might have been Love Supreme or something like that. It's to the right of the trail up to the Phobos area. We went up there and tried it long before anyone had ever successfully done it. We were both scared s###less of the nasty swing.

It's funny, the stuff you remember and don't remember. I remember, with total clarity, seemingly insignificant scenes from 30+ years ago in Yosemite and/or C4. Smells, sounds-just about anything can trigger these memories. Makes you wonder, as you wander through life, whether there are certain moments in your life of total clarity that you won't realize till later. Insignificant moments, like just walking down a trail, where maybe you're close to the surface of something.

Then there are whole seasons that are blank. Maybe we were doing too many controlled substances those months.

Gramicci-don't get me wrong. I liked Dale and did stuff with him but he, at times, REALLY pissed me off.

The trench, in those days as it is now, was a real soap opera. There were always little dramas, and dramas within dramas. You'd think you could escape it by getting off the deck but that only presented different dramas. Camp 4 was a teeming, festering drama. It used to make me laugh. Now I can walk through there and be totally detached, but I can still recognize the current kings and queens of drama.

Gramicci

Social climber
Ventura
Jan 27, 2006 - 10:28am PT
Pat, As Largo put it up top. It is really a frame of mind. I couldn’t count that high to list all that aspire to maintain the style and the respect for the rock as much we enjoyed to. Erik is a poster child of the ideal, with his ability and soft spoken word.

Mastadon, I hear you. Dale could really Piss me off too but I really love picking him up every time I see him.

Werner, I’ll catch up with everyone for you out in Utah.


Signing off
Kofi Donny Annan

climber
darkest of africa
Jan 27, 2006 - 10:33am PT
who IS mastadon?

my guess is Don Harder
Largo

Sport climber
Venice, Ca
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 27, 2006 - 10:40am PT
Jobee--

I still remember that night at MC's house and the big turkey and also a lot of beer and of course all the gorgeous girls. One of the greatest things about the Stonemasters was the way they interacted with girls, or rather, how the girls stepped in and sorted things out and kept the balance. It would have been boring and hopeless without the girls, who were heros to put up with us waving turkey legs around and taking up all the space. Most all the Stonemasters were pretty rustic and unformed back in the day, but all were kind people in their own way.

JL
mastadon

Trad climber
Seattle
Jan 27, 2006 - 10:43am PT
Thanks Donnie!

So much for anonymity.
can't say

Social climber
Pasadena CA
Jan 27, 2006 - 10:45am PT
I agree Mike, it's much more a tude or lifestyle so many of us adopted back then. I think it's pretty cool you guys set a cultural standard that was aped by monkeys around the world.

I think it's kind of amazing what Erik is still doing..at his age:) So many of the old dads are beached now, but E is still going strong. The dude is as whippet thin (largoism alert) as he was 30 years ago.
Kofi Donny Annan

climber
darkest of africa
Jan 27, 2006 - 10:52am PT
chuckle....

i did not make my first timid forays into the trench until '78 or so (and never did make much of a dent), but i DID meet the WA boys. Pat McNertney and Eric Simonson et al. And they said Don/ you was the most highly capable of the bunch.
mastadon

Trad climber
Seattle
Jan 27, 2006 - 11:08am PT
Donny,

This must be what it's like to be outed.

I feel like I've been violated!
Ditch Trad

Trad climber
CA
Jan 27, 2006 - 11:21am PT
Whippet thin means 2 bucks and a nickel, right. Or did i drop a dime?
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