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skywalker
climber
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Topic Author's Original Post - Mar 10, 2011 - 08:26pm PT
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I know this depends on the route but if beta calls for some hand placed angles, some beta saying sawed off, how much do you saw off as a rule of thumb? 1/2? I realize its route dependent. Seems to me if hand placed keep-em long and use hero loops to girth hitch it tight to the rock and secure with another loop in the event the placement pops.
Any input is appreciated.
Cheers!
S...
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xtrmecat
Big Wall climber
Kalispell, Montanagonia
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Mar 10, 2011 - 10:07pm PT
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I sawed off about two thirds of my pins in this manner. I sawed off one about one third of the usable part, and then sawed off just over half of another and then leave one full length. When paring down the rack, I always opt to leave the full length pieces, and work with the shorter ones. Never had a sawed off hand placed bottom out and be too long, although those placements are out there somewhere, I just haven't been stuck with no other choices yet.
As far as use, yes hero loops to tie off short and I clip a sling and biner to the rope to prevent loss should it wiggle out(quit likely sometimes). Caution, I have fallen on hero loops, and tied off pins, and even in the shorter dynamic falls, my hero loops have always failed, every time. Most of my tied off pins are angles or blades, go figure, the sharp edged ones. The angles I have needed to tie off were mostly fixed mank with eyes torn out.
Burly Bob
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skywalker
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 10, 2011 - 11:28pm PT
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Thanks Xtrmecat.
Lots to digest... Thanks!!!... I'm sure it will work itself out!
Cheers!!!
S...
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skywalker
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 10, 2011 - 11:56pm PT
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Xtrmecat,
yep! thanks, makes sense...its just hard to picture it. I veer toward tri-cams...
Thanks!
Cheers!!!
S...
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mud
Trad climber
CO
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Mar 11, 2011 - 12:24am PT
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Yep, I’m with xtremecat on this.
Be careful not to CUT off the wrong end
Seriously
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Mark Hudon
Trad climber
Hood River, OR
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Mar 11, 2011 - 12:27am PT
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I have some that I cut in half but I discovered that they are pretty much useless now. I'd say to cut about a third off.
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John Mac
Trad climber
Littleton, CO
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Mar 11, 2011 - 12:38am PT
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Yes, I agree with Mark. Cutting a third off provides the most options.
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skywalker
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 11, 2011 - 10:24am PT
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Jeeze Mud,
I thought you'd have a bunch to loan us. Your gettin old!
S...
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Popeye!!
Trad climber
Montague, MA
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Mar 30, 2011 - 02:45pm PT
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I searched for a while on this yesterday and today and couldn't find any details:
So you saw 1/3 the length off a BD angle, check.
5/8, 3/4, and 1" seem to be the most useful.
Does anybody have feedback on these:
http://www.mountaingear.com/pages/product/product.asp/imanf/CAMP/idesc/Baby+Angle/Store/MG/item/218387/N/0
There are only 3 sizes: ~ 1/2, 5/8, and 3/4"
They list their (what looks like) blade length: 1.1, 1.5, 1.5", resp.
BD lists their full length (including eye), confirmed by their climbing email contact: 4, 4.25, 5.62", which who knows what the 2/3 blade length is (I don't have them at work to measure).
Any thoughts or comments? They are cheaper (above 1/2") AND you don't have to saw them off, but DO THEY WORK?
Thanks!
edit: grammar
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Popeye!!
Trad climber
Montague, MA
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bump: anybody?
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OlympicMtnBoy
climber
Seattle
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I have a couple, one I found near the base of Zodiac. They are cute but I haven't had an opportunity to use one yet. That doesn't say as much about their utility as it does about my not getting out to climb.
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