TimM
Trad climber
Indian Wells, CA
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Topic Author's Original Post - Jan 18, 2006 - 09:51am PT
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I need to improve my offwidth technique. Are there any recommended offwidths in JT that can be used to improve technique that are not meatgrinders (or are non-meatgrinder JT offwidths an oxymoron)?
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426
Sport climber
Buschville, TN
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Jan 18, 2006 - 10:55am PT
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Hobbit Hole(?)
If I were you I'd try to get down to Woodson every so often...
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TimM
Trad climber
Indian Wells, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 18, 2006 - 11:05am PT
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Good point. I haven't been there in a long time.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
one pass away from the big ditch
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Jan 18, 2006 - 11:10am PT
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there are no good offwidths in JT
however, if one were inclined to cheez gratering Brutus of Wyde might have recommended line nears Steve's Canyon for you.
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10b4me
Trad climber
On that V2 problem at the Happies
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Jan 18, 2006 - 11:30am PT
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Orphan comes to mind.
there used to be a good one over by Gunsmoke. forget the name but, it was destroyed in a rockfall a few years ago.
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The Schmutzvink
climber
The WAY past
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Jan 18, 2006 - 12:27pm PT
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Hex Marks the Poot has the softest off-width I recall (low angle 5.7).
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caughtinside
Social climber
Davis, CA
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Jan 18, 2006 - 12:34pm PT
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Orphan on the Old Woman. Wear long pants.
I'd note here that after watching me lead this one, my partner was in tears he was laughing so hard. He then proceeded to follow it, face climbing the whole way!
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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Jan 18, 2006 - 01:34pm PT
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I robert johnsoned to 'the earthborn spirit' long before I ever went to Josh, so I don't have the specifics, but there are some good ones to learn on, there.
I'll check the book when I'm back at the ranch.
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marty(r)
climber
beneath the valley of ultravegans
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Jan 18, 2006 - 02:10pm PT
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Kill two birds with one stone--Big Bob's Wedge: 35 feet of bighands and fists through a roof, 3-4 feet off the ground, then an awkward chicken-wing/shoulder/knee thing to the top. Some folks boulder the roof with a swami-belt, then have their buddy clip that into a pre-strung toprope for the top-out.
If that seems like too much work, the upper part of Fisticuffs (10a) is wide-ish, and Dolphin (5.7) on Isles in the Sky could chew a hole in some jeans.
There's an incredible roof-to-OW/squeeze on a prominent boulder below Wanger Banger that's rad and really really hard. There's a photo in an old Rock and Ice of a dude completely inverted in the squeeze--headed pointed straight for his pad. Can't remember the name (Inquisition--v7?) Approach like you're going to the Rusty Wall and look for a cave-like boulder facing the road. The crack in it makes a kind of lightning bolt pattern.
And if you can get some JT local to blindfold you and take you to the top-secret Saturn Boulder there's a thing there called "Marlin Fishing in Baja." Go back to the "Wide with pride" post from ages ago. Russ put up a photo of it on there. http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=15444#msg52433
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TimM
Trad climber
Indian Wells, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 18, 2006 - 02:20pm PT
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I've messed around on Big Bob's Wedge a few years ago. Never thought about the TR thing to finish it out. Thanks for the other suggestions too. I'll check them out.
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Rhodo-Router
Trad climber
Otto, NC
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Jan 18, 2006 - 02:51pm PT
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Boulders near here, as yet unsent. Anyone care to spot?
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TimM
Trad climber
Indian Wells, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 18, 2006 - 03:07pm PT
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Ewwwwwww. This wasn't what I had in mind ;-)
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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Jan 18, 2006 - 03:10pm PT
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I'm there!
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can't say
Social climber
Pasadena CA
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Jan 18, 2006 - 03:16pm PT
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Edit: Thread drift
Check out Castaways, it's a 11c roof crack that starts out fingers and progresses evenly out to fullbody wiggle that pops you out the top of the roof. It's on a canted slab that fell against another rig and split down the middle. What's cool is you can protect it from on top of the roof by dropping pro in if you don't feel like leading it. Sort of a cool party trick type of thing.
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TimM
Trad climber
Indian Wells, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 18, 2006 - 03:25pm PT
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I was recently out there going nowhere on Marathon Crack and I went to look for Castway and never found it... but I didn't look too hard. It was windy and cold and we wanted to get back to the car. Next time I'm out there (hopefully on a warmer day) I'll take a look. Thanks.
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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Jan 18, 2006 - 03:29pm PT
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-Can't say, where were you for the "wierd" photos?
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WBraun
climber
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Jan 18, 2006 - 03:34pm PT
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Jay who is belaying?
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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Jan 18, 2006 - 03:41pm PT
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Dennis McMahon
I think Walt & Watusi have each climbed it without a belayer, though.
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Fluoride
Trad climber
on a rock or mountain out west
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Jan 18, 2006 - 03:50pm PT
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Championship Wrestling. It's to the right of Leave it to Beaver. Second half of the climb is all OW, gets wider as you go til the top. Very fun for an OW, good for improving technique.
Tumbling Rainbow gets called OW often, but I didn't really think it was that bad. Hardly OW by true offwidth standards. Even though it's still a fun climb. But worth doing if you're going up to do Run for Your Life (the opposite of OW), 2 good climbs next to each other worth ticking off.
Damper has been seeing a lot more activity over the last few years. Not a serious OW like some of these, but enough to get a feel for it.
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WBraun
climber
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Jan 18, 2006 - 03:54pm PT
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Off topic
That "leave it to beaver" is one of the best routes in Josh?
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