What was your first climb in Eldorado Canyon?


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Trad climber
Denver, CO
Mar 2, 2011 - 06:48pm PT
Pat - thank you for continuing to share your wonderful stories and history with us, fascinating! I and many of my climbing friends have the utmost respect for you and your generation of climbers that established, in very bold style, the climbs that we enjoy today.

One point I would like to share with you is that even though there are many more climbers today, and even though many of us are climbing established routes versus pioneering new territory, I can assure you that for me as well as many of my climbing partners, the pursuit of climbing is an obsession, very core to our existence and to our soul. So while I agree we might never be able to fully relate to the feelings you experienced in the era you climbed, the "specialness" of climbing certainly isn't lost for many of us that climb today.

You authored one of my most enjoyable climbing reads, High Over Boulder. I met you briefly at a book signing, so my copy is autographed.

Carry on, my friend. Wally

Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
Mar 2, 2011 - 07:09pm PT
Calypso in '75 and rope-soloed the Bastille Crack later that year. I used to hitchhike I-70 back and forth from SoIll to climb there. Also did T2 one time leaving a pair of crutches on the ground with one of my friends who couldn't second the start. I had chipped my heal bone, but it did really bother me climbing, but I hadn't really thought it all the way through and the descent was a nightmarish face-in crab crawl that took forever. Old man Fowler read us the riot act when we finally got down.

Big Wall climber
So Cal
Mar 2, 2011 - 08:02pm PT
Tagger with Jay Eggleston, a very cool pro BMX rider that my then GF knew & set me up with to climb for the day because she had to work.

I still recall the dubious, ancient fixed pins that I'll bet haven't been touched by a hammer in years.

We also did some pitches on T2 & the first pitch of Genesis.

Trad climber
AKA Dwain, from Apple Valley, Ca. and Vegas!
Mar 2, 2011 - 08:32pm PT
Hey jan;
I couldn't find the negative but I took a photo of my collage
that I have hanging on the wall, of the same stance

Jan's pic

and mine
Credit: Cosmiccragsman


Sport climber
Silverado, CA
Mar 2, 2011 - 08:51pm PT

Bastille Crack in 1986

Trad climber
Mar 2, 2011 - 09:21pm PT
The Flakes, 1993 with Nick.

Picked this route because we were from the gunks, and all the vertical faces were freaking us out. We wanted roofs!
The Warbler

the edge of America
Mar 2, 2011 - 10:33pm PT
I believe it was Kloberdanz with none other than The Kloberdanz Kid, in 1974 or 5.

He gave me the beta and I lead the roof first try.

Great route, really liked the second pitch too.

Trad climber
Mar 2, 2011 - 10:45pm PT
Blind Faith.
Bold FA, fun route.
Patrick Oliver

Boulder climber
Fruita, Colorado
Mar 4, 2011 - 12:04am PT
I was there, Kevin, when you led Rain, so easily, so
fluid and smooth, not even a whimper... You were a real
tooling machine back then...
The Warbler

the edge of America
Mar 4, 2011 - 12:54am PT
I would have whimpered but I was so gripped I couldn't breath, Pat.

Hah! smooth?

I'll never forget you yelling up to me that the bolt 15 ft below me was only 1/2 inch long and advising me not to fall!


Funny now in the comfort of my armchair.

I love Eldo...
Patrick Oliver

Boulder climber
Fruita, Colorado
Mar 4, 2011 - 03:04am PT
I did the first ascent of that route, to test out
a new cagoule I was told was really rainproof. I was
getting ready to do El Cap, and on so many climbs I had
been rained on and gotten fabulously soaked through my supposed
waterproof cagoule or rain jacket. I waited until the most horrific
downpour I'd ever seen hit Eldorado and raced up with my young
companion Tom Ruwitch and led upward. Not only was the rain
"bucketing down," as they say in England, but that line on
the Bastille becomes also a waterfall. I climbed straight up through
the waterfall and the torrents of rain, and I had to place
a couple quick bolts, the kind we used back then, dinky things
that probably would hold body weight if placed well. I can't
imagine how difficult that climb must have been in those
conditions, but I was pretty good and really ready to rock,
so to speak, on the rock... Now it's obvious that, like every
other line in Eldorado, it's a natural free climb... I have
since returned and free climbed it, of course, but I will say
that's the easy way to do it!
Yes I have the same sentiment. I love Eldorado...

Mountain climber
Okinawa, Japan
Mar 4, 2011 - 03:34am PT

I don't know why but I have only a hazy recollection of the names of most of the climbs I did in Eldorado. T-2 was pretty hard as I recall, so I'm wondering now why you had the boldness to think Dean and I could climb it? I'm guessing in fact that we didn't?

Mar 4, 2011 - 03:42am PT
Country Club Crack, around 1989 or so. Having done some 12a's in CA, I thought I would cruise it. My attempt was unsuccessful.

Edit: I mean Supremacy Crack.

Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
Mar 4, 2011 - 03:51am PT
"He gave me the beta and I lead the roof first try" and Rain as well - burly.

Mar 4, 2011 - 08:37am PT
T2 and I thought it was pretty stiff. Don't know how we decided that was a good route to try Eldo for size.

had the practically worthless bluey at the start, stiil, don't botch the sequences.

Then wisdom, P1 and 2...but not 3...


Trad climber
Reno, NV
Mar 4, 2011 - 09:13am PT
The Wind Ridge on Wind Tower.

5.6 my ASS! I was in for a harsh reality check on route grading after this bad boy.

Funky 3rd pitch
Funky 3rd pitch
Credit: sieczk
Rockin' Gal

Trad climber
Mar 4, 2011 - 09:25am PT
Bastille Crack with some random Aussie, about 1979.

Social climber
chicago ill
Mar 4, 2011 - 11:08am PT
Kings x

Trad climber
Ridgway, CO
Mar 4, 2011 - 11:56am PT
Werk Supp, all pitches . . . 1987. Met Yabo in the parking lot!

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Mar 4, 2011 - 12:01pm PT
Don't know.....caaan't remember. It was in 1967, I came south from the Teton's and climbed with Bob Polling. I do remember it was rated 5.8.
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