What was your first climb in Eldorado Canyon?

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Levy

Big Wall climber
So Cal
Mar 2, 2011 - 08:02pm PT
Tagger with Jay Eggleston, a very cool pro BMX rider that my then GF knew & set me up with to climb for the day because she had to work.

I still recall the dubious, ancient fixed pins that I'll bet haven't been touched by a hammer in years.

We also did some pitches on T2 & the first pitch of Genesis.
socalbolter

Sport climber
Silverado, CA
Mar 2, 2011 - 08:51pm PT

Bastille Crack in 1986
SeaJellie

Trad climber
Booolduh
Mar 2, 2011 - 09:21pm PT
The Flakes, 1993 with Nick.

Picked this route because we were from the gunks, and all the vertical faces were freaking us out. We wanted roofs!
Sisyphus

Trad climber
Utah
Mar 2, 2011 - 10:45pm PT
Blind Faith.
Bold FA, fun route.
Patrick Oliver

Boulder climber
Fruita, Colorado
Mar 4, 2011 - 12:04am PT
I was there, Kevin, when you led Rain, so easily, so
fluid and smooth, not even a whimper... You were a real
tooling machine back then...
Patrick Oliver

Boulder climber
Fruita, Colorado
Mar 4, 2011 - 03:04am PT
I did the first ascent of that route, to test out
a new cagoule I was told was really rainproof. I was
getting ready to do El Cap, and on so many climbs I had
been rained on and gotten fabulously soaked through my supposed
waterproof cagoule or rain jacket. I waited until the most horrific
downpour I'd ever seen hit Eldorado and raced up with my young
companion Tom Ruwitch and led upward. Not only was the rain
"bucketing down," as they say in England, but that line on
the Bastille becomes also a waterfall. I climbed straight up through
the waterfall and the torrents of rain, and I had to place
a couple quick bolts, the kind we used back then, dinky things
that probably would hold body weight if placed well. I can't
imagine how difficult that climb must have been in those
conditions, but I was pretty good and really ready to rock,
so to speak, on the rock... Now it's obvious that, like every
other line in Eldorado, it's a natural free climb... I have
since returned and free climbed it, of course, but I will say
that's the easy way to do it!
Yes I have the same sentiment. I love Eldorado...
Jan

Mountain climber
Okinawa, Japan
Mar 4, 2011 - 03:34am PT
Pat-

I don't know why but I have only a hazy recollection of the names of most of the climbs I did in Eldorado. T-2 was pretty hard as I recall, so I'm wondering now why you had the boldness to think Dean and I could climb it? I'm guessing in fact that we didn't?
mcreel

climber
Barcelona
Mar 4, 2011 - 03:42am PT
Country Club Crack, around 1989 or so. Having done some 12a's in CA, I thought I would cruise it. My attempt was unsuccessful.

Edit: I mean Supremacy Crack.
healyje

Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
Mar 4, 2011 - 03:51am PT
"He gave me the beta and I lead the roof first try" and Rain as well - burly.
426

climber
Mar 4, 2011 - 08:37am PT
T2 and I thought it was pretty stiff. Don't know how we decided that was a good route to try Eldo for size.

had the practically worthless bluey at the start, stiil, don't botch the sequences.

Then wisdom, P1 and 2...but not 3...

sieczk

Trad climber
Reno, NV
Mar 4, 2011 - 09:13am PT
The Wind Ridge on Wind Tower.

5.6 my ASS! I was in for a harsh reality check on route grading after this bad boy.

Rockin' Gal

Trad climber
Boulder
Mar 4, 2011 - 09:25am PT
Bastille Crack with some random Aussie, about 1979.
chez

Social climber
chicago ill
Mar 4, 2011 - 11:08am PT
Kings x
Kalimon

Trad climber
Ridgway, CO
Mar 4, 2011 - 11:56am PT
Werk Supp, all pitches . . . 1987. Met Yabo in the parking lot!
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Mar 4, 2011 - 12:01pm PT
Don't know.....caaan't remember. It was in 1967, I came south from the Teton's and climbed with Bob Polling. I do remember it was rated 5.8.
steve s

Trad climber
eldo
Mar 4, 2011 - 10:52pm PT
Super Slab, then Wide country to Outer space,1978
peace and fuk-nes
Captain...or Skully

climber
The Seas of Stone.
Mar 4, 2011 - 10:56pm PT
I'm at the pre-prancing stage, as yet.
blackbird

Trad climber
the flat water trails...
Mar 4, 2011 - 11:03pm PT
Breakfast in Bed (I *think* that's the correct name?? Breakfast something or other .10ish)
philo

Trad climber
Somewhere halfway over the rainbow
Mar 4, 2011 - 11:21pm PT
Blackbird, Breakfast in Bed 5.8+ PG is on the west side of the Bastille and Breakfast of Champions 5.11a R is on the lower ramp of the Redgarden wall



My first was the Bastille Crack back in the days of steam powered guitars.


Bastille Crack in 1964. I held a long leader fall with a 3/8th goldline on the last pitch when one of my partners pulled a big block off and rode it to the ramp below.
Ewww brutal!
Captain...or Skully

climber
The Seas of Stone.
Mar 4, 2011 - 11:23pm PT
Steam. It's a beautiful thing. Steam Rocks!
Messages 41 - 60 of total 179 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
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