Discussion Topic |
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Patrick Oliver
Boulder climber
Fruita, Colorado
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Topic Author's Original Post - Feb 24, 2011 - 06:47pm PT
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The Dvd of my film, The Disciples of Gill, has arrived,
and ready to ship for those who would like the
film and those who have already ordered. The run
is not huge, so get your order in now. They might
not last long...
Order through patament.org
Thanks, and all the best to everyone.
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kunlun_shan
Mountain climber
SF, CA
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Feb 24, 2011 - 07:00pm PT
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Cool! Thanks, Pat.
I was away and missed seeing it when you were in the Bay Area last year. Just placed an order. Can't wait to see this film :-)
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Brokedownclimber
Trad climber
Douglas, WY
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Feb 24, 2011 - 07:09pm PT
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Pat-
You might want to post the price here...might get more takers.
Rodger
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mooser
Trad climber
seattle
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Feb 24, 2011 - 07:13pm PT
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Thanks, Pat. If you could post up all pertinent order info, that'd be great.
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PhilG
Trad climber
The Circuit, Tonasket WA
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Feb 24, 2011 - 07:21pm PT
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mooser:
Go to his web site, click the pay now button and the order is made.
Thanks, Pat. Look forward to seeing a film about one of my all time favorite climbing hero.
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The Lisa
Trad climber
Da Bronx, NY
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Feb 24, 2011 - 10:34pm PT
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Woo hoo! Looking forward to seeing it, Pat. Just in time for some stoke for the pending climbing season here in the northeast :)
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neebee
Social climber
calif/texas
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Feb 25, 2011 - 02:25am PT
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hey there pat, say, congratualtions!!!!
i have no money, so i can't pledge to buy one, but i send all the best wishes for you to sell out in great style!
:)
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ß Î Ø T Ç H
Boulder climber
bouldering
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Feb 25, 2011 - 03:20am PT
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Not to be too snitty, but how many minutes is the film? Hope your health is good, and you are ripping the rocks to pieces Pat.
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Patrick Oliver
Boulder climber
Fruita, Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 25, 2011 - 07:20am PT
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Neither, but I am working on my second film.
As most know I have a kind of "Godfather part II" going,
since the first film really only tapped the surface...
Even now, as I finish this second film, I realize
how deep the climbing world's love goes for my friend
John Gill. There is no end to it...
The Disciples of Gill is about an hour in length,
and everything else is there at the website. patament.org
My new CD has arrived too. It will probably be gone,
though, quickly, just in the mailing to those
who have been faithful longtime fans... There are
people here who have been listening to my music since
I would perform for little groups that would gather
at the lodge or at the chapel in Yosemite late at night...
in about 1970... Time flies, as they say...
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steveA
Trad climber
bedford,massachusetts
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Feb 25, 2011 - 07:52am PT
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Pat,
Just ordered both cd's. I still remember your piano playing in the Lodge around 1971. I was pretty impressed!
After listening to your music on your website--I was really impressed!!!
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phylp
Trad climber
Millbrae, CA
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Feb 25, 2011 - 11:38am PT
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Yay! Looking forward to it!
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J. Werlin
Social climber
Cedaredge, CO
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Feb 25, 2011 - 11:50am PT
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I'm in.
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Patrick Oliver
Boulder climber
Fruita, Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 25, 2011 - 02:32pm PT
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Thanks so much, Steve. I remember a day when I snuck off to
play the piano in the lodge, and Breashears went around and
gathered up a little crowd of people, and suddenly it was like
a concert. No one was there but our little group... I miss
not having that big lounge to relax in and play chess...
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Mark Rodell
Trad climber
Bangkok
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Feb 25, 2011 - 07:38pm PT
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Best of luck in your ventures, Pat.
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mooser
Trad climber
seattle
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Feb 25, 2011 - 08:02pm PT
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Thanks, Phil.
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stilltrying
Trad climber
washington indiana
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Feb 25, 2011 - 08:54pm PT
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Done. looking forward to watching your DVD on John Gill.
Had the privledge of meeting Mr. Gill and eating a little pizza with him in Pueblo a few years ago after climbing there and sharing a hike down with him. Very nice man and a fast hiker. A few years ago David Crosby released a three CD compilation called "Voyages" One of the obscure songs I had never heard before was "The Climber" Interstingly he said in the book that came with the CDs that he thought it was the best song he ever wrote.
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Doug Robinson
Trad climber
Santa Cruz
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Feb 25, 2011 - 09:48pm PT
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I'm in.
Pat, I enjoyed the books about Gill, and I find myself mulling over for years his observations about climbing. So I'm looking forward to this.
Thanks,
Doug
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Largo
Sport climber
The Big Wide Open Face
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Feb 25, 2011 - 10:01pm PT
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Congrats, Pat. I look forward to buying a copy soon.
JL
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Patrick Oliver
Boulder climber
Fruita, Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 26, 2011 - 02:21am PT
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Thank you, John. You were one of the great ones.
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Wayno
Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
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Feb 26, 2011 - 02:23am PT
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Thanks indeed. It is now on the top of my "get" list.
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Patrick Oliver
Boulder climber
Fruita, Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 27, 2011 - 01:10am PT
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by all indicatios, I could sell out on this first
run, so better order quick...
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Patrick Oliver
Boulder climber
Fruita, Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 27, 2011 - 02:42am PT
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I forgot to mention the first hundred will be
autographed. (minor detail, but that will make the
film worth its weight in diamond, haha)
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Patrick Oliver
Boulder climber
Fruita, Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 27, 2011 - 06:00pm PT
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Come one come all, get your The Disciples of Gill
while they last... goin goin goin fast...
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Patrick Oliver
Boulder climber
Fruita, Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 28, 2011 - 01:31pm PT
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orders going out in boxfulls today...
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Patrick Oliver
Boulder climber
Fruita, Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 1, 2011 - 02:34pm PT
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Is it wrong to bump your own thread? Just want to
make sure people know about the arrival of the DVD...
Pat
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matty
Trad climber
under the sea
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No, it's knott wrong Pat!!!
BUMP!
I already ordered, so shud the rest of you slackers!!!!!
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Patrick Oliver
Boulder climber
Fruita, Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 2, 2011 - 01:25am PT
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Thanks, friend/s.
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The Lisa
Trad climber
Da Bronx, NY
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I came home tonight after a loonng day at the office to....... a package from Pat Ament! :)
Pat please tell me you wrote the envelope yourself so that I have an autographed envelope that will be worth its weight in diamond too LOL
I am so looking forward to watching and listening this weekend :)
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matty
Trad climber
under the sea
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Me too! Opened the mailbox thinking, nah not yet, too soon. But there it was. Will report back later...
Signatures look the same to me.
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Patrick Oliver
Boulder climber
Fruita, Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 3, 2011 - 02:31am PT
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Well, I have to admit... I forged my own signature.
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The Lisa
Trad climber
Da Bronx, NY
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LOL Pat. Shhh, don't tell.
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Patrick Oliver
Boulder climber
Fruita, Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 5, 2011 - 12:45am PT
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I've been getting some feedback. A fellow in California
phoned me to say he absolutely loved the film. That made
me feel good. He said he was very impressed with the quality
as well.
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Patrick Oliver
Boulder climber
Fruita, Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 5, 2011 - 11:37pm PT
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I will bump this one or two more times, just to keep it
out there for a time that the dvd of
the Disciples of Gill
is here, and I mail it
the day you order. Go to the website, patament.org, for info...
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stilltrying
Trad climber
washington indiana
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Got my copy in the mail a couple days ago. Could not sleep Thursday night (happens too often lately) so I watched the DVD at 3:30 am. It was very good and I totally enjoyed it. The quality is outstanding and it is a truly unique piece of work in this day and age of over rated hero shots and boring rap music. Definitely a must have and would have been a great purchase at twice the price.
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PhilG
Trad climber
The Circuit, Tonasket WA
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Thank you, Pat.
Thanks for making such a beautiful film that not only documents but pays will deserved tribute to John Gill and other pioneers of American Bouldering.
Allow me to thank-you with 1000 words:
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jogill
climber
Colorado
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My observation is the videos, far more so than stills ever could, show a remarkable evolution of footwork from Gill to Holloway to the present.
You may not be far off the mark here, DMT, but for a different reason. I was fascinated with upper body strength for many years and cultivated a very gymnastic style that I considered - this may get me into trouble! - masculine. The competitive rope climb was mostly upper body with the legs "striding", and the still and flying rings were virtually all upper body. Actually, I was OK with my feet as a climber. Bob Kamps and I and others became proficient at no-hands routes, but for more general bouldering I consciously avoided heel hooks for many years because I thought this made the performance of climbing a little like what we gymnasts called "jungle gymnastics." To me the gymnastic style was more important than simply getting up something with every ounce of desparation or contorting myself into what I considered awkward bodily configurations.
So, the evolution of footwork you speak of was more a product of climbers focusing on pure difficulty rather than performance style. And, yes, as you might suspect, back in the 50s and early 60s I was virtually alone - with a few notable exceptions like the splendid boulderers Rich Goldstone and Pat Ament - in my perception of the sport!
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426
climber
☬
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Really interesting post, John.
Speaking of disciples, I feel that often Sharma was somewhat criticized for "not using feet well" when he was younger. Actually, he was using his feet quite well, when you get into really steep terrain, sometimes one or no feet on is clearly the most efficient way of going about it--something I've been learning in the last decade...watching Sharma now, one can see the evolution of this movement, his whole body "kips" for lack of a better term...
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rgold
Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
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I few further observations about footwork.
(1) You have to try the center no-hands route on Falling Ant Slab at Jenny Lake to see just how good Gill was at footwork. My now-distant memory is that thing was 5.10 with both hands, with a really high step onto a dime edge at the crux---I could never do it, nor did I ever see anyone else except for Gill ever do it (although I wouldn't be surprised to learn that Kamps had done it).
(2) Modern rubber has revolutionized foot technique by allowing climbers to pivot on a weighted foot. BITD, if you moved your foot at all, it would blow off a hold. Many of the sport-climbers standard tricks would have been way dicier in the pre-sticky rubber days.
(3) The combination of rubber and downturned toes has give climbers a much more viable option to pull with their feet in overhanging rock.
John is right about heel-hooks though; we thought of them as terrible style and poor technique. Then Henry Barber and Steve Wunsch started climbing things with heel hooks that we couldn't do. So then we figured maybe we should pay attention...
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Patrick Oliver
Boulder climber
Fruita, Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 8, 2011 - 02:35am PT
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John was amazing with his feet on delicate balance problems
where upper body strength wasn't an issue, only good footwork.
I bouldererd with him at many locations, but one of our first
outings to Split Rocks I was a bit astounded by how well he used
his feet and the really difficult foot problems he did. There
was one where he stood up like nothing on the tiniest edge, and
I could barely see it and barely stand up on it. Yet he liked
the overhangs where he could do those pull-ups and one-arm things.
His abilities are, though, by no means limited to upper body
strength. I don't think anyone, including Holloway or any other climber
I've spent time with in the last several decades, can do it better,
when it comes to footwork. Even my friend Tom Higgins, one of the
best at footwork (Kamps too was one of the best) will attest to
Gill's transcendant technique.
Thanks to everyone who has sent me positive feedback about the film.
I am about to finish the second film, Gill Across Time. There was
far too much stuff to fit into the first film.... and I realized
the subject deserved much more. I work on this film in and around bouts
of despair and chronic fatigue... Keep sending me your good
energies. Something has kept me going, I'm not sure what, but probably
the good spirits of my friends...
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Patrick Oliver
Boulder climber
Fruita, Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 9, 2011 - 03:26pm PT
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I better bump this up there again, just to make sure word stays
fresh on the dvd of "The Disciples of Gill." To order it, go to
my site, patament.org
I have been getting good feedback on the film. It won't
be easy to make the second film that good, although it
seems to be developing into a very different kind of creation....
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Patrick Oliver
Boulder climber
Fruita, Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 9, 2011 - 03:28pm PT
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Maybe a few of you would send out the word to some of
your friends. That would surely help. Anything with
Gill's name attached to it is a good karma sort of thing...
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phylp
Trad climber
Millbrae, CA
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Mar 10, 2011 - 12:38pm PT
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My copy arrived yesterday! Can't wait to watch it, Pat.
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Patrick Oliver
Boulder climber
Fruita, Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 10, 2011 - 08:47pm PT
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If you can't wait, then why didn't you watch it yesterday!!
(haha) (you know I'm joking)
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The Lisa
Trad climber
Da Bronx, NY
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Mar 12, 2011 - 08:41pm PT
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Well I have had my copy for two weeks now and am finally settling down to watch. Just came home from bouldering at the gym so this is timely.
Beer in hand (Brooklyn Lager chocolate stout and I have earned it!) I am so glad to finally press 'play.' Later!
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Rick A
climber
Boulder, Colorado
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Mar 12, 2011 - 10:03pm PT
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It's a great film and this is a great thread. Every climber should have Pat's film in his or her collection.
As for this thread, thanks to the contributors, who are a pantheon of bouldering history, including Gill, Goldstone, Ament and Long.
Heel hooks and fancy footwork only for sissies! Who knew?
Rick
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Patrick Oliver
Boulder climber
Fruita, Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 13, 2011 - 05:24pm PT
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Rick,
You are just the best of the best and always have been.
I cherish our climbs together. I wonder if sometime
you'd take me up something easy in Eldorado, you
know Pseudo Sidetrack to the last part of Anthill... easy
but has that Eldorado exposure...
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The Lisa
Trad climber
Da Bronx, NY
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Mar 14, 2011 - 11:46pm PT
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I thoroughly enjoyed your film, Pat. It is very sweet your daughter is in it along with all the great climbers.
It is interesting to read the above discussion of John Gill and 'no hands' climbing as that is not what I was thinking when watching the film - that seemed to be practically 'no feet' :)
We are just home from the gym having been inspired to work on 'no feet' campusing and traversing. Whew it is hard, yet fun!
There was some heel hooking performed tonight. I did not knw that used to be a bad thing ;)
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Patrick Oliver
Boulder climber
Fruita, Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 15, 2011 - 12:42am PT
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Not a bad thing at all. There simply are certain
routes where John would define his goals and impose upon
himself certain rules. He envisioned how
he wanted to perform a certain sequence. Ripper Traverse,
for example, is done with "the Eagle Move," a lovely
horizontal positioning of the body, and lever move, and he
wouldn't feel right to use some other form of
"jungle gymnastics" just to get across. Many routes
can be done... in whatever way you can get up or
across them. Other routes require a certain form,
some stylistic idea... such things of which John is a master.
On some other route, though, a heel hook would have been
the right thing, the most elegant way for a problem
to be done. It's a fine distinction, not simply
all encompassing negation of heel hooks or footwork.
No, that's getting it wrong and missing the point.
Anyone who has climbed with Gill knows he has footwork
that is as good as any climber's ever was. We've spoken
about his no-hands routes, some of which the best climbers
of that day couldn't repeat using their hands... but there
are countless other routes he's done that involve some
remarkable footwork.
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Patrick Oliver
Boulder climber
Fruita, Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 15, 2011 - 02:38pm PT
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Just a hint, if you don't order the dvd within the next day or so,
you'll have to wait to the next run, as I'm just about out...
Best to all,
pat
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Patrick Oliver
Boulder climber
Fruita, Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 15, 2011 - 03:59pm PT
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It's just such a silly thing to do, really, no one paid
much attention. Anyone knows he has incredible footwork,
as good as anyone ever had.
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The Lisa
Trad climber
Da Bronx, NY
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Mar 15, 2011 - 04:12pm PT
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DMT, maybe everyone is struck dumb by your audacity ;)
It is nice to have a civilized discussion, I do agree.
A recent issue of 'Climbing' magazine has an article about the importance of footwork - duh, obvious - but it is humorously written and one of the top 5 indications your footwork may be lacking is:
'You climb as hard in flipflops as you do in your rock shoes.'
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Patrick Oliver
Boulder climber
Fruita, Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 15, 2011 - 08:48pm PT
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no bad feelings. We're all in it for fun. I do
not belittle anyone for thinking Gill is a show
of muscle. Lots of people have thought so through
the years. But as his partner for many years and on
countless outings together, you get a different look.
I quickly realized it wasn't his strength that made
him so great. That was just a nice addition to
phenomenal climbing ability. He could out footwork
about anyone on the planet on the most delicate of
slabs.
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Patrick Oliver
Boulder climber
Fruita, Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 15, 2011 - 08:50pm PT
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Just a tip to anyone thinking of ordering the dvd.
The price will go up after this initial run. You will
note, for example, the $25 dollar price on other dvds
that aren't even as long as mine. Through the retail
market, the price undoubtedly will go up. But for the time
I've offerred a low price, really, since it covers shipping
as well. But that won't last forever... I suggest go for it
now, if you can.
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rgold
Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
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Mar 15, 2011 - 10:20pm PT
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Footwork at work: Fenton's Corner, Hagermeister Boulders, Estes Park, CO.
Picture from Pat's Disciples of Gill blog, before that from Pat's Master of Rock and originally from one of Gill's albums.
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Patrick Oliver
Boulder climber
Fruita, Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 17, 2011 - 02:54am PT
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Do I have a blog? Where? I didn't know. Or do you mean this one
here, Rich?
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Patrick Oliver
Boulder climber
Fruita, Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 17, 2011 - 02:56am PT
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By the way, that photo of Gill at Hagermeister... He looks so
relaxed and casual, and you just try that route. You need a
microscope to find a hold anywhere, and it's about 5.13 or
something... He walks up it.
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ß Î Ø T Ç H
Boulder climber
bouldering
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Mar 17, 2011 - 03:42am PT
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Just from reading your brilliant commentary on this thread, I'm gonna buy a copy.
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Patrick Oliver
Boulder climber
Fruita, Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 17, 2011 - 05:23am PT
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I don't know about anything "brilliant," just casual
banter...
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wildone
climber
Troy, MT
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Mar 17, 2011 - 08:14am PT
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Pat, something you said just upthread about the strength being just an added bonus to a phenomenal rockclimber...
I couldn't agree more. When I watched that video, I was struck by the thought of how precise his body positioning was. In one scene, he's one arm campusing, and there is NO SWING in his body or any unnecessary movement at all. Nothing superfluous at all. It seemed that if his core was a millimeter to the left or right as he pulled up, there would be some wild swing of his legs or something, but no, he was totally locked in to the exactly perfect way to climb. This is what happens, I think, when you devote your life to a pursuit with the discipline of a samurai and try to perfect even the most minor aspects of your craft. A pleasure to watch.
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rgold
Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
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Mar 17, 2011 - 11:29am PT
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Pat, I was referring to http://disciplesofgill.files.wordpress.com.
I chickened out of Fenton's Corner bitd on my only visit to Hagermeisters. Hard, totally insecure, tiny footholds, and (this is what did it for me) high enough to get hurt (no pads or spotters then, of course). But I did get high enough to report that some very serious and totally critical footwork is involved---in those days, in rather floppy kletterschues with decidely non-sticky rubber. You ain't gonna muscle your way up that one, Jack.
I was there with Gill, who walked it. Whatever his limit might have been for such delicate problems, he was nowhere near it on Fenton's.
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klk
Trad climber
cali
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Mar 17, 2011 - 01:23pm PT
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some years ago i spent a really enjoyable day following john around on some of his solo circuit in the mountains above pueblo. it's a lovely granite buttress in the middle of nowhere- not even a real trail for the 40 minute approach --on a fairly complicated ridge.
at no point do you ever really get a good view of the entire buttress, let alone clear sight lines of the entirety of any potential route. so it's one of these deals where you have to take it as it comes, in sections, never knowing if the way above will dead-end or play out. none of the climbs we did had any mandatory climbing harder than maybe one move of 5.9 (and most of it was easy to mid 5th), but none of them were shorter than four or five pitches, and none of them was the sort of thing appropriate for the average roadside cragger who likes to do some soloing. it wasn't trashcan rock at jtree or even royal arches where you can preview the route from below. it was much more like the kind of climbing you get into in a lot of alpine rock climbing.
john was really at home in that environment, and he moved through it like the best mountaineers with whom i've climbed over the years. no high-steps, no wasted energy, lots of small, intermediate footholds, three points of contact, steady, continuous pace. in other words, he moved more like the alpinists i've known than like a more traditional rock climber, if that makes sense.
i wasn't quite surprised by the experience, since i knew john had done a lot of work in the rockies and the tetons and elsewhere. but it brought home to me the way that john's practice in the 50s grew out of a world in which rock climbing was still pretty bound up with alpinism, and it reminded me how much time john had spent up high as well as on the boulders.
it made for a really remarkable counterpoint or perhaps backdrop to the very different movement you can see on the dakota bouldering routes in pat's film.
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Patrick Oliver
Boulder climber
Fruita, Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 17, 2011 - 02:14pm PT
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Good thoughts and insights, those last three entries,
thanks. Rich, yes. Dave Rearick and I went up there
to Fenton's Corner years ago and did a few routes and
"admired" a few. It was pretty awe-inspiring. I went back
later in much stronger shape and did a few more of the
hard ones, but it was a real effort, whereas Gill had
more or less happened along and simply strolled whatever
the mood directed. There are so many Gill areas around
the mid-west, and then all those in the east and south.
People don't realize he was actually a much stronger
climber in those early days than in my film. Those
earlier days were before all the injuries, climber's elbow,
etc.
By the way, Kerwin, I've followed John on that solo, or
something akin to it, and I like your descriptions and
how you liken his techniques to an Alpine climber. Most people
don't realize John did a host of longer climbs in the Tetons,
some of the earliest 5.10 routes, no doubt. Very subtle
and beautiful descriptions on your part. And for those who
think he was all muscle, they should climb in the Needles
on thos tiny nubbins...
By the way, Rich, that "blog" was started by an official
at the AAC, and I don't think it ever got any "play" or
progressed beyond that first page!! It was intended to
raise money for the first film. I never saw a penny.
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Patrick Oliver
Boulder climber
Fruita, Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 17, 2011 - 11:31pm PT
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Update. I'm virtually finished with my second film, just
waiting for some footage shot in the Black Hills decades
ago...
thanks to Mark Powell's wife, Bev...
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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Mar 17, 2011 - 11:40pm PT
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Leggs
Sport climber
El Presidio, Tucson
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Mar 17, 2011 - 11:46pm PT
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^^ I remember that day well, Jef ... Do you have
his whole sequence?
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Patrick Oliver
Boulder climber
Fruita, Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 18, 2011 - 01:20am PT
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Oh wow. Cool. On my old route. What's with those
pads. That makes it three grades easier!! You have to
fall onto that pointed rock below!! haha.
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ß Î Ø T Ç H
Boulder climber
bouldering
|
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Mar 18, 2011 - 03:43am PT
|
I chickened out of Fenton's Corner ... high enough to get hurt ... I always looked at that photo like he was about 3 feet off the ground, but you can see it was taken from a low angle. Doubtful the photographer laid on the ground to take it, like they do now-a-days.
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go-B
climber
Sozo
|
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Mar 20, 2011 - 01:27am PT
|
Thanks Pat,
Pullin down, forever young, crimp on brother!
The Doctor Zhivago Film Award
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Patrick Oliver
Boulder climber
Fruita, Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 21, 2011 - 03:44pm PT
|
Sold out of the first run before I could even send all
the copies to those who contributed, but the order is in.
I redesigned the front and back cover of the dvd case,
so all those first orders will have a unique, perhaps one day
collector item version, with an autograph. To get right
on this second run, either go to Chessler books or send me
an order through Paypal and have your dvd in the mail virtually
the second they arrive from New York... in a few
days.
Nothing but good reports
on the film so far, which greatly pleases me. I'm not a perfect
person, by any stretch of the imagination, so nothing I do will
be perfect, but the film captured the spirit I had hoped for
(and with the help of my little daughter even more than what
I had hoped).
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Patrick Oliver
Boulder climber
Fruita, Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 22, 2011 - 07:33pm PT
|
My daughters are here now with me for spring break,
make me wait on them hand and foot. I don't mind.
Keep those orders coming, friends,
Pat
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Patrick Oliver
Boulder climber
Fruita, Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 26, 2011 - 11:02pm PT
|
If you haven't heard, yet, I am working on a second part
to the film, and it's all but done. One little scene I'm
working on. Whatever goes into the first film helps in
the funding of the second, so get your copy of the Disciples
of Gill, if you haven't. patament.org
Thanks to everyone,
Pat
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Patrick Oliver
Boulder climber
Fruita, Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 31, 2011 - 03:08pm PT
|
Let's keep this up there, where people can know the dvd is
available. Through patament.org
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Patrick Oliver
Boulder climber
Fruita, Colorado
|
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 1, 2011 - 08:37pm PT
|
I thought I would share a few words from the great Bowling Green poet
Howard McCord, who wrote me today:
Dear Pat--- THE DISCIPLES OF GILL arrived today and I have just watched it.
I was much more deeply moved than I anticipated. You really caught the essence
of the magic of rock and the friendships it can create among those who love
that world. It took me back. Your opening and closing scenes with your wonderful
daughter are simply brilliant in their beauty, simplicity, and wisdom. It was
also good to see all those climbers I have read about for years,
but never met. Thank you so much for creating this masterpiece.
Howard McCord
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Patrick Oliver
Boulder climber
Fruita, Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 2, 2011 - 02:28am PT
|
Wow that went away fast. Guess I better bump it.
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Patrick Oliver
Boulder climber
Fruita, Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 2, 2011 - 12:13pm PT
|
I get it now, it's a game. Everyone who doesn't like me
comes in and bumps several threads, and I'm gone in a heartbeat.
It's a conspiracy, I just know it...
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Patrick Oliver
Boulder climber
Fruita, Colorado
|
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 2, 2011 - 02:40pm PT
|
self-bump
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The Lisa
Trad climber
Da Bronx, NY
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Pat-bump!
Competition for the front page is tough here, Pat. Maybe we need a 'LIKE Pat on Facebook' thread ;)
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Patrick Oliver
Boulder climber
Fruita, Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 2, 2011 - 09:59pm PT
|
Thanks, Lisa. I'll take whatever I can get. But I find I get orders
for the dvd when the thread is up front, and none when it's three or
four pages back, so for a little while I hope people can bump it, or
not mind if I do...
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Patrick Oliver
Boulder climber
Fruita, Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 3, 2011 - 01:19pm PT
|
self-bump
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Patrick Oliver
Boulder climber
Fruita, Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 4, 2011 - 05:38am PT
|
My best wishes to Bob D'Antonio who introduced me at my Gill film show
in Boulder and then later at Bridges Gym in Berkeley. My friend gets around.
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Patrick Oliver
Boulder climber
Fruita, Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 5, 2011 - 01:59am PT
|
to the top, as Gill would do...
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Patrick Oliver
Boulder climber
Fruita, Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 5, 2011 - 08:27pm PT
|
Gill was the best at no-hands...
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Patrick Oliver
Boulder climber
Fruita, Colorado
|
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 5, 2011 - 11:06pm PT
|
To the top, in one flying move...
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Patrick Oliver
Boulder climber
Fruita, Colorado
|
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 6, 2011 - 02:32am PT
|
flying swing move on my little finger
|
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Patrick Oliver
Boulder climber
Fruita, Colorado
|
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 6, 2011 - 06:46pm PT
|
one-arm front lever to a one-finger mantel
(no wait, I can't do those things)
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Patrick Oliver
Boulder climber
Fruita, Colorado
|
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 7, 2011 - 01:16am PT
|
I ran at it this time and, springing off one
foot, flew to a one-finger grab at the top.
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Patrick Oliver
Boulder climber
Fruita, Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 8, 2011 - 08:18pm PT
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his hand goeth forth like speed
into the brightness of the day
and catcheth the stone that standeth
in late color... (I think that
was a line from Shakespeare)...
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damo62
Social climber
Brisbane
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Mercy bump.
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Patrick Oliver
Boulder climber
Fruita, Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 9, 2011 - 12:12pm PT
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ahh, through what narrows yonder
doth young yonder rock climber peek?
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Patrick Oliver
Boulder climber
Fruita, Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 10, 2011 - 01:06pm PT
|
Nobody here must read Shakespeare
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go-B
climber
Sozo
|
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Apr 10, 2011 - 02:42pm PT
|
Pat, The Disciples of Gill---Bump!
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Patrick Oliver
Boulder climber
Fruita, Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 10, 2011 - 10:04pm PT
|
Keep those orders coming, my friends. A fellow told
me today he was deeply moved by the film and actually
had a few tears. I got another strong endorsement a
day or so ago from
the President emeritus of the American Alpine club,
Jim McCarthy who called the film "Beautifully conceived."
Well wishes to all my friends, Pat
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Patrick Oliver
Boulder climber
Fruita, Colorado
|
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 11, 2011 - 02:17pm PT
|
Effortless he flew past all the difficulties
on his way to the ground
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Patrick Oliver
Boulder climber
Fruita, Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 12, 2011 - 01:24am PT
|
From his pogo stick he bounced upward past
the crux and found the key hold at the lip.
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Patrick Oliver
Boulder climber
Fruita, Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 12, 2011 - 09:33pm PT
|
I try not to use my hands or feet while climbing.
It makes things so much easier.
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Patrick Oliver
Boulder climber
Fruita, Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 13, 2011 - 01:51pm PT
|
or my chin or knees.
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The Lisa
Trad climber
Da Bronx, NY
|
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Apr 13, 2011 - 03:25pm PT
|
I like your style, Pat - you just 'float' up there.
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Patrick Oliver
Boulder climber
Fruita, Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 13, 2011 - 10:04pm PT
|
Thanks, Lisa. I only let gravity affect me
when I want it to (which has been the entire
second half of my life).
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Patrick Oliver
Boulder climber
Fruita, Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 14, 2011 - 01:36am PT
|
...when your gravity fails, and negativity
don't pull you through...
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john hansen
climber
|
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Apr 14, 2011 - 03:00am PT
|
Hey Pat, watched your movie tonight. I like the way you belay your daughter,, one hand ,good enough,,,
Really good stuff, you can see how strong Gill was, his arms were like a preying mantis lifting him to the next hold. The pull up power he had is incredible, you can see him levering his way up these route's.
The music and interviews are also very cool.
Amazing stuff,,, thanks
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Patrick Oliver
Boulder climber
Fruita, Colorado
|
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 14, 2011 - 06:22pm PT
|
Thanks, John.
It means a lot to me to get feedback
from people.
Pat
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adikted
Trad climber
|
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Apr 14, 2011 - 09:33pm PT
|
BUMP....Just purchased a copy and am psyched to watch it.....Thanks for all your hard work Pat... i look forward to the Video.
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Patrick Oliver
Boulder climber
Fruita, Colorado
|
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 15, 2011 - 12:44am PT
|
Thanks... my friends...
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Patrick Oliver
Boulder climber
Fruita, Colorado
|
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 15, 2011 - 06:22pm PT
|
this must smack of extreme desperation...
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Patrick Oliver
Boulder climber
Fruita, Colorado
|
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 15, 2011 - 09:25pm PT
|
Yet everyone who has seen the film has been glad
they learned about it.
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Patrick Oliver
Boulder climber
Fruita, Colorado
|
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 16, 2011 - 03:27pm PT
|
Since the late 1960's, John Gill has remained my dear
friend and the most inspirational climber I have known.
When I made the Disciples of Gill, I realized how much
there was to say about John and how many people had
strong sentiments they wanted to share. Thus I went right
ahead with the second film, which is nearing completion.
Any contributions would be most welcome, as I battle
various health problems that seem to want to slow me
down at every turn. Many thanks to those of you who have
had faith in me...
Pat
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Patrick Oliver
Boulder climber
Fruita, Colorado
|
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 17, 2011 - 12:43am PT
|
topside with this...
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Patrick Oliver
Boulder climber
Fruita, Colorado
|
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 17, 2011 - 11:32pm PT
|
from a toenail hold to a fingernail mantel...
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Patrick Oliver
Boulder climber
Fruita, Colorado
|
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 18, 2011 - 02:45pm PT
|
This is like a good kind of fishing. I cast in my line, and
someone is happy to get the dvd. We both win.
But I have to keep letting people know.
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Patrick Oliver
Boulder climber
Fruita, Colorado
|
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 18, 2011 - 11:41pm PT
|
Got a bite (an order), casting again...
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Patrick Oliver
Boulder climber
Fruita, Colorado
|
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 19, 2011 - 02:53am PT
|
I'm up late again, so thought I'd bump
this. Surprise, surprise.
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drunkenmaster
Social climber
santa rosa
|
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Apr 19, 2011 - 03:00am PT
|
another bite - im up late too and i meant to buy this awhile back but i was broke as a joke :) but not today! hook line and sinker.
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Patrick Oliver
Boulder climber
Fruita, Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 19, 2011 - 02:42pm PT
|
Thanks, dm. That's what I admire, the kind of spirit
where one spends his last nickle on some climbing dvd...
You have your heart in the right place...
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Patrick Oliver
Boulder climber
Fruita, Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 20, 2011 - 12:00am PT
|
Did you mean Jim? Are you thinking of some other climber than
John Gill? I suppose if he's one of your inspirations
you wouldn't get the name wrong. But
indeed there are some other Gills floating around...
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Patrick Oliver
Boulder climber
Fruita, Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 20, 2011 - 03:09am PT
|
The next person who orders will get not only the
DVD of "The Disciples of Gill" but my new CD of
original songs.
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Patrick Oliver
Boulder climber
Fruita, Colorado
|
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 20, 2011 - 02:22pm PT
|
As younger climbers we often try to make comparisons
between the good climbers, and finally we realize
such comparisons aren't very wise or insightful. It's
better to view people as individuals, to see their gift
to us almost the way we view artists of the Renaissance.
They come from different times, different eras, different
backgrounds and circumstances, and different desires
and styles. They set before themselves different goals.
Time passes, and one really can only be judged by their
own period in history. Who is to say, for example,
that if the best climbers of the fifties were born today
they would not step right into the present consciousness
and be equally outstanding? With so many rock gyms and
so much competition, and the way climbers today virtually
inherit the knowledge and consciousness of present advances,
people now become very strong very fast. No one today, though,
is as far ahead of his (or her) time as was John Gill.
Strangely calm and masterful, Gill went about his training
and his climbs. He could do a one-finger (one-arm) front
lever. He could climb a rope to the top of a tall gym in
3.8 seconds. If you want to compare yourself to him, try
those things alone. Not to mention his one-finger pull-up
on either of the first two fingers of either hand.
He was a self-taught gymnast, a significant fact itself, and, as I
understand, could do a slow butterfly mount on the rings
(where you start in a hang and slowly pull yourself up into
an iron cross...). John never did push as hard as climbers
do today. He would find something that intrigued him and
perhaps work at it for a few hours or a couple of days at
most. I can't even imagine what he would have done had he
wanted to push his abilities. Climbers go about visiting
his boulder routes and repeating them, in some cases so as
to feel they are in a league with Gill, yet some fail to realize
how easily he put up most of these. They were fairly relaxed
little achievements, just right for his sort of play and
meditation. Many of his later routes were done after he had
injured his elbows and then later detached his bicep. So he
was climbing at a considerably lower level from about 1975
on. Even then, the best climbers are humbled to sense his
abilities in these routes that were fundamentally moderate
for him. But Gill's gifts went far beyond
strength. His balance and footwork were genius, and his no-hands
routes were a challenge to repeat using feet and hands. Royal
said it well in Reardon's film about Bachar, speaking of Gill,
"We were playing at bouldering in California, but here was
the real thing." Gill could have been some
kind of ego freak, you know, a snob, self-centered, and
instead was and remains one of the most gracious and humble
climbers on the planet. To have all those attributes, ability,
technique, strength, humility, and character, all those together,
and to be the intelligent spirit he is,
truly make John one of a kind.
|
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jstan
climber
|
|
|
Apr 20, 2011 - 02:53pm PT
|
Thank you, Pat.
I don't need to add this caution directed at the young ones, but I will.
You can tear your hand apart with those one finger moves.
It will probably not fully recover,
ever.
|
|
Patrick Oliver
Boulder climber
Fruita, Colorado
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 20, 2011 - 04:00pm PT
|
Sherman's dad is named Gill?
Thanks, John. Yes I see a lot of this one-finger
in the hole pulling on sport climbs, and I too
can attest to the need for care. I tore the big
tendon on my left middle finger and never could
climb as well again, or rather never could use that
finger very well. My right side of the Red Wall,
for example, became about three grades harder...
just that "little" difference proved not so little.
Tendons in fingers just don't heal very well...
|
|
Patrick Oliver
Boulder climber
Fruita, Colorado
|
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|
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 20, 2011 - 05:01pm PT
|
When I was young I felt invincible. How very
wrong that proved to be...!
|
|
Patrick Oliver
Boulder climber
Fruita, Colorado
|
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 21, 2011 - 12:57am PT
|
Watched some old footage this evening of Kamps
and Gill playing volleyball in the Black Hills.
How fast these sacred days fly away, on wings
of time.
|
|
Patrick Oliver
Boulder climber
Fruita, Colorado
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 21, 2011 - 06:20pm PT
|
First to order after this reply
gets a free copy sent to the address
they stipulate, for a friend...
|
|
klk
Trad climber
cali
|
|
|
Apr 21, 2011 - 08:22pm PT
|
i actually like the shorter lines.
jstan was
the first one i saw
doing it on the st.
it makes bigger blocks of prose much more readable.
|
|
jstan
climber
|
|
|
Apr 22, 2011 - 01:15pm PT
|
Text and speech both depend upon
timing.
"We were playing at bouldering in California, but here was
the real thing."
The last three words from Royal's comment completely sums up John Gill. A pause allows our minds to rest at the point of impact.
|
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Patrick Oliver
Boulder climber
Fruita, Colorado
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 22, 2011 - 03:03pm PT
|
Yes I get to typing and forget what I'm doing.
Sorry for the lack of spacial paragraph breaks.
I'll try to do better. Sometimes I simply start
typing, and the last thing on my mind is
the appearance, when I'm thinking about whether
or not I am being coherent.
I too don't like big blocks of type, but usually
when I start to read I can tell whether or not
it will be a block worthwhile or not... and then
if it is
I don't mind the format...
We had an immediate winner on the last invitation, so I'll put it
up again. The next person to order "The Disciples
of Gill" dvd will get a second copy free for a friend
(presumably)...
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adikted
Trad climber
|
|
|
Apr 22, 2011 - 09:38pm PT
|
Pat...I have watched the Film repeatedly and love it everytime...I love the bouldering scene at the end...your HARDCORE for sure....keep up the good energy....Inspiring...
|
|
Patrick Oliver
Boulder climber
Fruita, Colorado
|
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|
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 23, 2011 - 01:01am PT
|
Thanks so much. I have been surprised at how well
people like that last section... it simply worked
out...
|
|
Patrick Oliver
Boulder climber
Fruita, Colorado
|
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|
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 23, 2011 - 08:53pm PT
|
I am hoping to finish the second film about Gill today,
if all goes well.... It feels as though this one is
kind of like my rite of spring or something -- very
techical and much more difficult to put together than
the first one...
|
|
Patrick Oliver
Boulder climber
Fruita, Colorado
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 24, 2011 - 12:51am PT
|
Getting close... Had to crash and burn a bit...
|
|
Patrick Oliver
Boulder climber
Fruita, Colorado
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 25, 2011 - 12:07am PT
|
Had dinner today with Nate McKnight, who
used to climb. He could do one-arm pull-ups,
but he is a big guy and says his finges were
so weak the one-arms didn't help!
|
|
Patrick Oliver
Boulder climber
Fruita, Colorado
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 25, 2011 - 07:44pm PT
|
Upward and onward...
|
|
Patrick Oliver
Boulder climber
Fruita, Colorado
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 26, 2011 - 01:21pm PT
|
Today, today, if all goes well, I will
finish my second Gill film. Cross your
fingers, those who care.
Today I heard from a great old friend,
Gordy Ryan... who has been a drummer
for some major bands, toured with
the Dead and others... a rich
involvement with music... he and I
climbed quite a bit in the '60s.
|
|
klk
Trad climber
cali
|
|
|
Apr 26, 2011 - 01:33pm PT
|
good news, hope it goes well to the finish.
the very end is always such a grind-- all these last, little niggling things you hoped would take only a few moments that end up dragging out and then multiplying.
|
|
The Lisa
Trad climber
Da Bronx, NY
|
|
|
Apr 26, 2011 - 04:59pm PT
|
Glad to hear the film is receiving its finishing touches, Pat. Looking forward to seeing this one!
|
|
Patrick Oliver
Boulder climber
Fruita, Colorado
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 27, 2011 - 01:50am PT
|
Thank you my friends, Kerwin and Lisa and
all. I crashed and burned today, so I
didn't finish, yet I made some good progress
here and here. The last scene, what I call
a scene, has about 400 clips in it... or
such, quite a little monster... just to
make something that will look simple... when
it's done...
|
|
Patrick Oliver
Boulder climber
Fruita, Colorado
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 27, 2011 - 07:35pm PT
|
Running on low energy today, but I made some
progress. Getting closer. Hopefully tonight, after
my karate class, I can focus in.
|
|
adikted
Trad climber
|
|
|
Apr 27, 2011 - 07:37pm PT
|
Keep on Keeping on Pat....were psyched to see the new one...
|
|
Patrick Oliver
Boulder climber
Fruita, Colorado
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 27, 2011 - 11:02pm PT
|
thanks. I am working on it, as I speak.
Hopefully will finish tonight, if I don't
crash and burn. I have serious problems with
energy, all diabetes related and probably
a messed up chemistry, and depression on top
of that... but chronic pain saps my energy,
so I have these times where I
just drop in my tracks and can't move,
or else I can't sleep all night but am too
tired to work. But yesterday I met the
most beautiful girl in the world, and we
seem to have hit it off... I can't imagine
why I would will someone like myself on her,
though. Yet wow, it blew my mind just to
talk with her for five minutes. She's
probably too young for me. I suppose my
days of love and romance are long gone.
|
|
klk
Trad climber
cali
|
|
|
Apr 27, 2011 - 11:09pm PT
|
She's probably too young for me.
I'm sure she is.
Congrats, and we can all wait a bit longer for the film.
heh
|
|
Patrick Oliver
Boulder climber
Fruita, Colorado
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 28, 2011 - 02:12pm PT
|
I was up at 4 and past last night, wide awake,
mind going fast... Today is the day, I believe,
today, if I can just tighten this last part...
The key to the whole film... Hard to stay
objective... I've recorded a lot of new music,
hard to know how and what to use... Getting
close, though...
|
|
Patrick Oliver
Boulder climber
Fruita, Colorado
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 29, 2011 - 03:20am PT
|
Quitting now, for the day. Got a lot done
on the film, almost done. Tired.
Hope all is well with my friends.
|
|
Patrick Oliver
Boulder climber
Fruita, Colorado
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 29, 2011 - 05:38pm PT
|
Got up early, worked until now. I'm on the last
minute of the film... Hope to finish soon,
the gods willing.
|
|
Patrick Oliver
Boulder climber
Fruita, Colorado
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 29, 2011 - 07:12pm PT
|
Well, the film is done. All I have to do is render it
and burn it to a disk... What a project. What a
learning process.
|
|
Patrick Oliver
Boulder climber
Fruita, Colorado
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 30, 2011 - 05:43am PT
|
Up at 3:30 a.m., did a little rendering...
|
|
Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
|
|
|
Apr 30, 2011 - 10:42am PT
|
Photos?
Drove through Fruita yesterday, shoulda said "hey"
|
|
Patrick Oliver
Boulder climber
Fruita, Colorado
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 30, 2011 - 04:02pm PT
|
Yes my friends should call me when they come
through. There is a nice little cafe/coffee shop
about a block from where I live...
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The Lisa
Trad climber
Da Bronx, NY
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Apr 30, 2011 - 08:50pm PT
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Pat, I will be heading to Cedar Edge, CO in July (flying into Grand Junction). I would love to see you at that cafe :)
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Patrick Oliver
Boulder climber
Fruita, Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - May 1, 2011 - 01:50am PT
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Ok, Lisa. You just have to phone me or
send me an email as to where you'd like to
meet. I can pick you up at the airport, for
that matter. It's not far away.
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drunkenmaster
Social climber
santa rosa
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Bouldering = "The Poetry of Mountaineering" by Pat Ament.
I just got my copy a few days ago and saved it for a special occasion to watch. last night/saturday night was the occasion and i loved it!! old school footage of john gill was classic and re-inspiring. i never knew he did a one arm lock off/one arm pull up on nearly every climb he did!! he looked stronger than most V15 climbers today! enjoyable and entertaining and most importantly an archive of the bouldering history of america. priceless :)
drunkenmaster/chris summit
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Patrick Oliver
Boulder climber
Fruita, Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - May 1, 2011 - 05:21pm PT
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Thanks so much, Chris. Nice words. I
really appreciate it.
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roadkillphil
Trad climber
Colorado
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Looking forward to seeing the DVD. Old Fart nostalgia story...On my first climbing trip to the Needles in the early '70's I was repeatedly failing on the 5.8 "problem" on the Campground Boulder-I will use the excuse that I was wearing my mountain boots, even though that excuse doesn't work anymore-and met this really nice guy who pointed out numerous lines I couldn't and will never do, complete with the arrow to show the start. I told my slightly more experienced fellow gumbies about it at camp, and they went crazy, telling me I had been "climbing" with John Gill.
Never have met him since, but took this pic last week on a snowy day in the Outlets. Hard to find some of those arrows anymore.
If I think about it hard enough, I'm pretty sure one of those "gumbies" was Wolf City Jaybro. We met when I found him and 3 other dudes pushing a VW Microbus UP a hill trying to start it, but that's another story.
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Patrick Oliver
Boulder climber
Fruita, Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - May 2, 2011 - 12:48am PT
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Yes that looks like one of the outlet problems. Gill
easily cruised those problems which still give good
boulderers fits...
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Patrick Oliver
Boulder climber
Fruita, Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - May 2, 2011 - 10:02pm PT
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Next person to order the dvd of "the Disciples of Gill"
will get a second copy for free, to be mailed where
you want it to go...
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Patrick Oliver
Boulder climber
Fruita, Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - May 3, 2011 - 03:46pm PT
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That went fast.
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Patrick Oliver
Boulder climber
Fruita, Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - May 4, 2011 - 01:03am PT
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I must get off my rump
and get online and bump...
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Patrick Oliver
Boulder climber
Fruita, Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - May 4, 2011 - 11:59am PT
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Sorry for that bad poetry.
I'm off now for a hydrobionomy session.
Ever heard of it? Very soft touch
massage that is supposed to trigger
or activate the body's natural healing
powers... The first time I went,
I almost laughed. It was so light
I couldn't imagine it could do anything,
and then the next day I was so sore
I could hardly move (I know, "You
don't have to get sore about it.")
The lady doing it is the mother of
one of my karate students and just
wanted to give back... I took her up
on it... This will be my fifth or
sixth session...
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Patrick Oliver
Boulder climber
Fruita, Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - May 5, 2011 - 01:48am PT
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One of the best so far. She is great.
Tomorrow I will step onto the rock
for a few minutes, just to see what
it feels like. I haven't climbed
since that fall I took in the film...
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Patrick Oliver
Boulder climber
Fruita, Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - May 5, 2011 - 12:02pm PT
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I was almost sure that report of
my going "climbing" would have
caused a few minor heart attacks.
I guess no one cares anymore...
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plund
Social climber
OD, MN
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Thanks a lot for "Disciples", Pat- it's a great addition to an already-admirable body of work. The Gill & Holloway footage is awe-inpiring, at least to a fat wannabe.....
Only one comment about the Ament climbing footage -- OUCH!!!
If you could post purchase info for the second installment, I'll be all over it!
Thanks again, and keep plugging away!
PS - how did the recent post-treatment climbing go for you?
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Patrick Oliver
Boulder climber
Fruita, Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - May 5, 2011 - 02:21pm PT
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I'm going out in an hour. Actually
the reason is that this photographer
wants to do a photo shoot of me.
I keep telling him I've lost
whatever photogenic quality I ever had,
and maybe only with a long shot,
maybe fifty yards away could he get
anything that might look real...
The hydrobionomy was great,
and the climbing (in an hour)
will be more like some trivial
bouldering for about an hour...
Everyone has seen in the film
that I am a major has-been...
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klk
Trad climber
cali
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glad yr getting out. i dont think anyone
expects you to crush v12. but i hope to still have
some kind of climbing practice however long i make it.
actually, that's why fontainebleau remains the healthiest
bouldering scene ive ever witnessed. stacks of folks from
eight to eighties out in the woods and on the stone.
we're really just now trying to make that transition
in the us, from a culture in which sports were for
young people, hobbies to be given up once you hit
middle age. the traditional exceptions were field sports
like hunting and fishing.
at the moment, bouldering is the most grommet-oriented
subculture in north america. there were so few serious boulderers
in the gill-to-ament generations that it's a novelty for the
groms to see someone in their 60s or 70s on the boulders.
i wish i had the dough and time to spend a year or two in 'bleau
on a documentary both of the early history and also of the
social history of the place and all those sort of nameless bleausards
who continue to climb way past retirement age, almost none of them
household names or ever even sponsored athletes.
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Patrick Oliver
Boulder climber
Fruita, Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - May 5, 2011 - 05:37pm PT
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Nice visit with Ryan Day Thompson,
photographer... good spirit...
Although that was a bit strange. I mean, I
bouldered a couple of feet above ground
but was a little reluctant... still
envision myself flying down the wall
(i.e., in the film)... don't trust the holds
to stay on... He got some good photos,
he says, and I hope he did... Think I'll just
stay retired...
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Patrick Oliver
Boulder climber
Fruita, Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - May 5, 2011 - 08:19pm PT
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Bump it or dump it...
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klk
Trad climber
cali
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I bouldered a couple of feet above ground
you say that like it's a bad thing.
that's where i live these days. nice movement is nice movement.
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Patrick Oliver
Boulder climber
Fruita, Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - May 6, 2011 - 01:34am PT
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Thanks for the vote of confidence/and/or encouragement,
Kerwin. The older I get, the smaller the climbs... it seems.
I'm down now to about three feet. I did pull up just a little
on those holds that disintegrated on me in the movie, but
frankly that was too freaky... to go back to where I met
my demise, of sort...
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Pat, glad you're getting out - it's the desire and intent that matter, not the result. But don't get hurt again, eh?
at the moment, bouldering is the most grommet-oriented subculture in north america.
And Kerwin, being a historian who has likely read his Samuel Eliot Morison, likely even knows what a gromet is. Gromet being the correct spelling - a grommet is a gadget that is used on fabric to make an attachment point.
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Patrick Oliver
Boulder climber
Fruita, Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - May 6, 2011 - 02:07pm PT
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I wouldn't call it "getting out." A quick
glimpse at the rock, then ran away in terror...
with Ryan taking shots of my retreating
backside...
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klk
Trad climber
cali
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Gromet being the correct spelling - a grommet is a gadget that is used on fabric to make an attachment point.
Yeah, canvas tarps (like sails) used to have grommets. Although the spelling then was "grommet," possibly an Americanization or maybe just regular typos in the OI literature.
I have no idea how "grommet" became part of the vernacular or where. Presumably surfing, since mx and climbing in SoCal seemed to copy surfer culture as closely as possible.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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A gromet is a ship's boy on a sailing vessel. Not sure what the derivation is, but it's a term that has somewhat fallen into disuse over the last 150 years.
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klk
Trad climber
cali
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A gromet is a ship's boy on a sailing vessel. Not sure what the derivation is, but it's a term that has somewhat fallen into disuse over the last 150 years.
heh
btw, OED also uses two "m"s:
http://www.oed.com/viewdictionaryentry/Entry/82010
apparently from the 15thc french, "grommette." Maybe someone else has the time to chase that down through the etymological dictionaries.
this is some serious thread drift, but maybe it'll sell some merch.
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Patrick Oliver
Boulder climber
Fruita, Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - May 6, 2011 - 06:23pm PT
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I have to confess I have no idea
what you two are talking about.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Don't mind us. We're cheerfully bumping your thread, while discussing arcane maritime terminology. Kerwin started it, when he said that "bouldering is the most grommet-oriented subculture in north america".
Morison says that Columbus' log spelt it "grumetes", but that the equivalent in Elizabethan English was "gromet", usually meaning ship's boys or apprentice seamen. There were ten gromets on Santa Maria, eight on Pinta, and six on Nina. As Morison was a rather well-respected historian, he can spell it however he wanted.
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klk
Trad climber
cali
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pat, "grommet" is jargon for "kid." anders was explaining where the word came from.
one of the cool things about yr gill movie is that bouldering now is so dominated by pre-teen and teenage boys, that many American climbers have a tough time thinking of adults participating in it at all. really good for audiences in the US to see multiple generations of bouldering.
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Patrick Oliver
Boulder climber
Fruita, Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - May 7, 2011 - 12:15am PT
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All right, thanks. That makes sense, and I
appreciate it.
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Patrick Oliver
Boulder climber
Fruita, Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - May 7, 2011 - 03:23pm PT
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Both of my shoulders hurt like heck, since that tiny
little bouldering escapade, and I am sore all over...
in part because of the orthobionomy probably...
My day in the sun feels like some tiny flash of light
in a carabiner some instant of some warm afternoon
a whole lot of decades ago...
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Patrick Oliver
Boulder climber
Fruita, Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - May 7, 2011 - 11:34pm PT
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Got together with my good friend Dave Williams,
with whom I rode the freights a number of years
ago. He was a professor and wanted to learn how,
so phoned me one day and said I should take him
on a trip. It was good fun. He was passing
through today, so we met for dinner... Friendships
are the most important thing.
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Patrick Oliver
Boulder climber
Fruita, Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - May 8, 2011 - 02:49am PT
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keep on keepin' on...
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Patrick Oliver
Boulder climber
Fruita, Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - May 8, 2011 - 04:54pm PT
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...and on...and on...
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Patrick Oliver
Boulder climber
Fruita, Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - May 8, 2011 - 10:34pm PT
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and on even yet once more...
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Patrick Oliver
Boulder climber
Fruita, Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - May 9, 2011 - 01:35pm PT
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I need to get talking about something.
I keep fiddling with this new film,
haven't had much energy to make the last
technical steps... Had a couple of strange
panic-like attacks recently, and yesterday
evening. Thought I was done with those.
I seem not to be bothered by them, and I just
sit there and watch them happen... pretty
subtle and nothing dramatic,
but my body (or mind) must be sending me a
message... of anxiety or something... about
what, I don't know. Maybe it has to do with
the realization that Ryan will post his
new photos so people can see how out of shape
I've gotten. I look a little like that mall-cop
actor... sad. It was weird trying to pull myself
up on tiny holds. Felt as though I had tied
a couple of bowling balls to my fanny pack.
If I could get my feet off the ground it was
one of those moments when the shutter would fly...
Ryan is a great guy, though. Glad I met him.
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stilltrying
Trad climber
washington indiana
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I am looking forward to your next DVD. I thought the first one was excellent and as a not so good climber approaching 60 there where many wonderful touches that I could relate to. Passing on your love of climbing to your Daughter in a calm , collected, thoughtful manner was a highlight and something many folks taking others out to the rock could learn from. Especially if they are impatient and pushy instead of sending the message that climbing offers more than just getting to the top. Your fall actually startled me and was pretty awesome once I realized you were o.k. Could example of "shit happens" to even the most experienced of climbers. What you said about relationships is so true. The last thing my Father gave me before passing on 10 years ago was a coffeee cup that says "Always remember that true value is found in relationships" By my estimate you have had and have many true and meaningful relationships that would fill many lifetimes. Good luck on finishing your project.
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Patrick Oliver
Boulder climber
Fruita, Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - May 9, 2011 - 07:04pm PT
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Thank you so very much for those kind words.
Of course it takes one who is the measure to
BE the measure...
The dream... must be that you know I am saying something,
but I'm not succeeding at making clear what it is I'm saying....
I think I'm saying things to myself as well that I don't understand
or don't exactly "hear"...
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Patrick Oliver
Boulder climber
Fruita, Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - May 11, 2011 - 12:23am PT
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I made some really good progress today on the last stages
of the film, continuity... post production, that sort of
stuff.... which are fancy words for trying to figure out
which end is up... if it's a good film, how to make last
minute tightenings....
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Patrick Oliver
Boulder climber
Fruita, Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - May 11, 2011 - 01:49pm PT
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I woke up at something like three in the morning
and worked on the film for a good hour, almost
as in a dream...
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dlintz
Trad climber
Neebraskee
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May 11, 2011 - 02:13pm PT
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Pat,
If I ordered the first film today when could I expect it to arrive? I'll be moving soon so I'm trying to figure out where to have it shipped. Thanks.
Doug
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Patrick Oliver
Boulder climber
Fruita, Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - May 11, 2011 - 11:49pm PT
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I ship it the day you order, and it takes
sometimes only a day or two to get there,
depending where you are. People have remarked
about how fast they got their dvd.
Don't forget, though, to give the post office
a forwarding address.
Pat
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Patrick Oliver
Boulder climber
Fruita, Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - May 12, 2011 - 02:12pm PT
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All you folks who have been waiting for some reason
to order the dvd, I suggest you do it now.
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Patrick Oliver
Boulder climber
Fruita, Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - May 13, 2011 - 03:43am PT
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The second film is now finished. I am very pleased with it.
I worked very hard on it, and it took about fifty times
as long to do as the first one. Thanks to everyone who
helped.
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The Lisa
Trad climber
Da Bronx, NY
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May 13, 2011 - 06:21am PT
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That is wonderful to hear, Pat, congratulations. Looking forward to seeing it!
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Patrick Oliver
Boulder climber
Fruita, Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - May 13, 2011 - 11:08am PT
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Thanks, Lisa. Hope things are going well for you.
Seems they always are.
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klk
Trad climber
cali
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May 13, 2011 - 12:10pm PT
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congrats, nice to finish a project.
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Patrick Oliver
Boulder climber
Fruita, Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - May 13, 2011 - 05:23pm PT
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Thanks Kerwin. You are a help and an inspiration,
of course.
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Patrick Oliver
Boulder climber
Fruita, Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - May 13, 2011 - 09:44pm PT
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quick bump
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Patrick Oliver
Boulder climber
Fruita, Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - May 14, 2011 - 09:46pm PT
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A few final cleanup edits, and it now should really
be done...
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mud
Trad climber
CO
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May 14, 2011 - 11:42pm PT
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Bump for Pat.....
Awesome as always!
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Patrick Oliver
Boulder climber
Fruita, Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - May 15, 2011 - 03:38pm PT
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Thanks, mate. Send me that book...
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Patrick Oliver
Boulder climber
Fruita, Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - May 15, 2011 - 09:40pm PT
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Just a little self-bump. Hope no one minds.
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Patrick Oliver
Boulder climber
Fruita, Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - May 16, 2011 - 01:10am PT
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Has anyone seen the movie "The Wrestler?" That's not
far off from the story of my life... but for my
daughters who are devoted to me.... Well, in some
ways... feeling a bit worthless and damaged...
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Patrick Oliver
Boulder climber
Fruita, Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - May 17, 2011 - 01:12pm PT
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A good day to all my friends...
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klk
Trad climber
cali
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May 17, 2011 - 01:19pm PT
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Rourke is great in that movie, possibly his best. Playing a drugged up, burned out, entertainer reduced to playing the "B" list: of course, it's not like it was that much of a stretch for that fine actor.
Unfortunately for us, Pat, I suppose Supertopo is a bit like those venues he plays at the end.
I still love Jack Palance in Requiem:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wZ7ND1o2OJA
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survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
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May 17, 2011 - 03:04pm PT
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Are you going to tour this film too Pat? Or just move directly into hustling copies?
Not many quality coodinators out there like myself......HA!!!
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stilltrying
Trad climber
washington indiana
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May 17, 2011 - 03:08pm PT
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You may be damaged as most of us are as we age but you are certainly not worthless. You are one of the first climbers I became aware of twenty years ago when I first began climbing. I once tried to lead your route C'est Le Vie, I bailed from a very long piton but have always intended to return and climb this route. Someday I will return with my Son and have him drag me up it. So twenty years on you are still motivating me.
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Patrick Oliver
Boulder climber
Fruita, Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - May 17, 2011 - 04:08pm PT
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Wow, thanks for that. C'est La View was one of my
first routes in Eldorado, and Larry and I were just kids.
I went up that first pitch, initially and didn't quite know
what to do with that lieback flake. I placed a bolt, and
it didn't go in, so it was sticking three-quarters the way
out, an old kind of bolt where the drill handle screwed
into into the bolt,
and the fangs of the bolt served as the drill, and you twisted
until you got the hole. But it was too hard standing there.
Nevertheless I clipped it and used it. We came back, and Larry
went up to that spot but suddenly bent over with severe pain
in his side. I lowered him, and carried him on my back to
his sister's car which he had borrowed.... He went to the
hospital with an acute appendicitis. So I returned with, Jeff
Wheeler, a relatively unknown but strong climber a generation
or so ahead of me. I did the climb all free but for one
or two pitons in the dihedral, later finally returned and did
that free (although I was beaten to the punch on the first free
ascent)... That was the second time I carried Larry down, as
another day later when we put up a new route
above the upper meadow, we returned
to the bottom of the wall to retrieve the pack, and he tripped
over a boulder and broke his ankle...
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Patrick Oliver
Boulder climber
Fruita, Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - May 17, 2011 - 04:11pm PT
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Bruce, the real test of the great promoter is to pull it off
twice. I guess I will see what I do in the way of "touring," based
on what comes up and who is willing to help. Yes you did a good
job, as I tell you again, and I am grateful. You had the courage
and vision to take charge and follow through, even when you were
very worried it wouldn't work....
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Patrick Oliver
Boulder climber
Fruita, Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - May 17, 2011 - 09:58pm PT
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Kerwin,
It wasn't so much the drugs he took, because they were
necessary, the pain killers, with so much pain, but
of course there were the steroids, and they showed how
even those can be addictive, but it was more about
being alone... surrounded by acquaintances but a feeling of
not belonging exactly. That movie has a tremendous
loneliness about it. One thing, when people grow and change
and become better, often the world is unforgiving and
doesn't care... Lots of provocative issues in that movie...
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Patrick Oliver
Boulder climber
Fruita, Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - May 18, 2011 - 05:09am PT
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bump from 2:55a.m.
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Patrick Oliver
Boulder climber
Fruita, Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - May 18, 2011 - 10:13pm PT
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Gill Across Time
the title of the new film...
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ron gomez
Trad climber
fallbrook,ca
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May 18, 2011 - 10:31pm PT
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Pat, we've talked in the past a bit, but remember....if you need help in this area with the "tour", I'm just a phone call away! Congratulations!
Peace
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dogtown
Trad climber
JackAssVille, Wyoming
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May 19, 2011 - 02:58am PT
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Gill is a Hero of many in the world of rock climbers. A man of fantastic skills ahead of his time by decades.
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Patrick Oliver
Boulder climber
Fruita, Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - May 19, 2011 - 01:30pm PT
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If there is anyone who would like to set up
a premier showing of the new film, let me know...
hopefully in June... I will listen to
offers... and ideas...
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Patrick Oliver
Boulder climber
Fruita, Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - May 20, 2011 - 05:37am PT
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Thanks, Ron. You are a good man. We'll stay in
touch.
Pat
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Patrick Oliver
Boulder climber
Fruita, Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - May 20, 2011 - 08:10pm PT
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Another bump for the dvd...
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Patrick Oliver
Boulder climber
Fruita, Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - May 20, 2011 - 11:20pm PT
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again, another Gill. This thread is about John Gill,
the one and only.
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Patrick Oliver
Boulder climber
Fruita, Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - May 21, 2011 - 06:51pm PT
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Next person to order a dvd, gets another one free
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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May 22, 2011 - 06:40am PT
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Where is Jim now, Weld_it?
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Patrick Oliver
Boulder climber
Fruita, Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - May 22, 2011 - 07:45pm PT
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Today I turned on my swamp cooler. They worked on it
on the roof, and it's started to get slightly hot.
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Patrick Oliver
Boulder climber
Fruita, Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - May 24, 2011 - 12:15am PT
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A poem:
I waited in some trees alone.
I didn't look back where I heard the sounds,
some distant noise, a city maybe,
back that way that seemed a battle,
men gone mad out in the streets.
I gazed instead where silence grew,
to which things silent
quietly were drawn, half day,
half night, a few initial stars,
the rock, some water,
air I felt that I was blessed to breathe.
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Patrick Oliver
Boulder climber
Fruita, Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - May 25, 2011 - 03:15am PT
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I thinks me days are running down. Had a good one, though,
today. Got a lot done un ze film, most of the final
edits... Soon now it should be showable. If I can get
some energy.
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Patrick Oliver
Boulder climber
Fruita, Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - May 26, 2011 - 12:34am PT
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and bob Gill and fred and larry too
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Patrick Oliver
Boulder climber
Fruita, Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - May 26, 2011 - 12:34am PT
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and don't forget that John Gill in that Star Trek episode.
Remember how they had him all drugged out...?
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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May 26, 2011 - 12:36am PT
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Patterns of Force.
didn't he have a race change?
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Patrick Oliver
Boulder climber
Fruita, Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - May 27, 2011 - 12:15am PT
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No, I don't think so... just drugged and brain
washed...
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Patrick Oliver
Boulder climber
Fruita, Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - May 27, 2011 - 05:41am PT
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Patrick Oliver
Boulder climber
Fruita, Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - May 29, 2011 - 01:47am PT
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Today I made the final edits,
after showing the film to John.
So I guess this is the finishing day,
and I think it's everything I want it
to be...
Gill Across Time
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Patrick Oliver
Boulder climber
Fruita, Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - May 30, 2011 - 06:38am PT
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Weld, why don't you start your own thread and talk
about your heroes. I'm sure they're important and
valid individuals. But here, well, to chime in here,
I don't know what your point
is, that someone else has the last name of Gill?
Hmmm, big surprise. But this thread has to do with
John Gill. I mean, if Jim Gill has something to
do with any of this, let us know. Maybe he's related,
maybe he's a fan of Gill's, maybe he has a voice of
his own, whatever. Just to keep mentioning his name,
as though there is some point we're missing
and are going to have to
pick up on by ourselves, well, I don't get it. Then
again maybe I shouldn't try to make sense out
of what most people do on this site.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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May 30, 2011 - 09:30am PT
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I think he was big in Chatsworth, didn't wear five tennies, though...
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Patrick Oliver
Boulder climber
Fruita, Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - May 31, 2011 - 03:48am PT
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Das cool bro man rastafarian climbee, i digs you now and
what you porpose wuz alls along, so all good, my man...
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Patrick Oliver
Boulder climber
Fruita, Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 2, 2011 - 01:52am PT
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The first to order a copy of Disciples of Gill
will get also a copy of the new film Gill Across Time,
when it comes out on dvd. Go to patament.org and order
the Disciples film.
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Patrick Oliver
Boulder climber
Fruita, Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 2, 2011 - 02:11pm PT
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This thread seems to have no further interest to anyone. I
will start one about the new film, though I am still
doubting myself and think I need to work on it sum mor
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| Messages 1 - 234 of total 234 in this topic |
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