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M. Volland
Trad climber
Grand Canyon
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Topic Author's Original Post - Feb 20, 2011 - 11:10pm PT
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Grizzly Peak is the rounded peak just south of Half Dome. The Southwest Ridge follows the horizon on it's right side in the below picture:
I partnered up with Joshua Leroy Holmes around 2004 for this enjoyable outing after two failed ropeless solo trips. I do not have pictures of the climb, but this is what I remember:
1) Approach to Sierra Point - At the beginning of the Mist Trail is an interpretive sign on the left titled "Rock Piles", with no pun intended consider this to be your cairn to leave the trail. No kidding, behind the rock piles sign is a well marked path up the talus slope. Follow this uphill aiming for the trees above. Follow a dirt path uphill and to the right (south) until you reach a short section of cliff. An easy scramble leads to another trail to the right (south). When the trail forks, take the one on the left that continues uphill and wraps around to the south side of Grizzly Peak and the Sierra Point overlook railing.
2) Southwest Ridge - From the railing, walk and scramble uphill. Following the line of least resistance will eventually force you east until you reach a cliff with great exposure. Rope up here for a short pitch involving an exposed mantle. Continue scrambling uphill and back to the western side of the ridge and some exposure to the west. Some cool easy rock brings you to the base of a deep chimney with increasing exposure. Set up a belay here. You could climb the chimney, however, we climbed a crack on its right side that was 5th class. (I seem to remember a fixed piece of pro here.) Scramble to the sandy summit.
3) Descend - Walk off the northeast side until you are in a saddle. We bushwacked to Lost Lake and took the slot between Mt. Broderick and the Liberty Cap to the mist trail and back to Curry. This took much longer than expected though. Next time, I will try the rappels down the north gully of Grizzly Peak (LeConte Gully). I am not sure if this option requires two ropes or not, but I would be willing to bet the farm that one rope will work.
I have fond memories of this route and was surprised not to see a thread discussing it...
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squishy
Mountain climber
sacramento
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Feb 21, 2011 - 09:30am PT
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I have attempted it twice without rope and turned back, I am planning on making it next time with the proper gear. If I remember correctly there is also a short section of down climbing or rappelling near the start..
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M. Volland
Trad climber
Grand Canyon
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 21, 2011 - 03:45pm PT
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Squishy
On the bottom third of the route, the line of least resistance forces you to the right (east). What I remember is that while heading to the eastern side of the ridge, the top of a gully system is crossed. This involves some down-scrambling to get into the gully, then some up-scrambling on the other side (passing a large tree) and ending at the top of an exposed cliff. This is where the roped climbing begins (and where my solo trips ended). We used the big tree as a belay here. The climbing in this section is a one or two move mantle over puckering exposure, protected by a finger sized alien. After this, the climb moves back over to the west side of the arete and a large chimney pitch above, just below the summit.
Sounds like you are having the same experiences I had. This route is solid 4th. Both of the cruxes are directly over deadly exposure. I was honest with myself in choosing to partner up for this one. In hindsight, I would want to complete this route a couple of times roped before adding it to my ropeless repertoire.
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ß Î Ø T Ç H
Boulder climber
bouldering
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Feb 21, 2011 - 04:15pm PT
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Thanks for the beta. I've only done LeConte Gully.
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Buju
Big Wall climber
the range of light
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Feb 21, 2011 - 06:40pm PT
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SWEET! It is on the to do list!
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M. Volland
Trad climber
Grand Canyon
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 21, 2011 - 06:51pm PT
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Del Cross
We climbed a crack with a pin in it just to the right of the chimney, and this was definitely the crux for us. As we set up the belay for this, we were staring right at an exposed step over into the chimney. Next time, I'd like to get into the chimney and wiggle up that thing.
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klk
Trad climber
cali
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Feb 21, 2011 - 08:24pm PT
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that looks like a blast.
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corniss chopper
climber
breaking the speed of gravity
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Feb 22, 2011 - 12:25am PT
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You get a different view of the waterfalls from up there.
We took 2 ropes for the route and used them for 2 or 3 longish raps down the gully, finally walking out of the forest right at Happy Isles.
There was a trickle of water at one spot in the gully but we got filthy from sand and dirt showering down while pulling the ropes.
Went straight into the Merced for a swim which was very welcome.
Trail walking with the multitudes is avoided.
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M. Volland
Trad climber
Grand Canyon
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 27, 2011 - 11:58am PT
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A Climber's Guide to Yosemite Valley (the red one)has this to say about the Southwest Arete:
Class 4. First ascent unknown. Take the trail to Sierra Point, and then climb up class-3 and class-4 rock to the arete. Follow this to the top, turning difficult sections on the right or left.
If you read this thread and decide to give this cool line a try, post up.
Enjoy!!!
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