Tell me a dacks story...

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Naitch

climber
Seneca area
Topic Author's Original Post - Feb 16, 2011 - 04:07pm PT
Normally, my climbing is limited to VA and WV, and NC venues because of my location, work & family. However, each year my wife and I take a vacation that includes a fair bit of climbing. Through vacations and work travel I/we have been able to hit up a some major and minor climbing areas here and abroad (though, no Yosemite yet).

This year for various reasons, we’ll not be flying anywhere but taking a road trip that will take us up to the ‘dacks for a couple weeks. I’ve never been there and don’t have any friends who’ve climbed there and know next to nothing except what the good book tells me.

Sooo…to get my psych up, tell me some dacks stories…(not the frozen kind! :-)
Aya K

Trad climber
New York
Feb 16, 2011 - 04:59pm PT
I live in the Dacks. There is a ridiculous amount of climbing, rock, ice, mixed. I'm not sure what kind of stories you want!

...oh and to which "good book" do you refer? the new one, I hope.
jstan

climber
Feb 16, 2011 - 05:10pm PT
The cliffs in the Adirondacks are probably several inches higher than they were when I was there. So I won't try to discuss them. The nicest shirt I ever had came out of a garbage pit at Lake Colden. Depending upon the circumstances of your family, climbing the Colden Slide may be one of your prime objectives

If you plan to take a family to the Adirondacks when the ground does not have snow on it, be prepared for the blackflies.

Oh, before I forget. There is no way to prepare for the blackflies.
Naitch

climber
Seneca area
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 16, 2011 - 05:17pm PT
Yeah, it's the new book. No families - just us two and we'll be going in Sept. so there shouldn't be black flies.

Anything in general, climbing areas, TRs, whatever anyone wants to share. I hear very little about the dacks and it seems like great climbing with several lifetimes of climbing to do with just what's listed - probably a lot more not listed. It seems like a lot of it is centered around Keene but wouldn't want to limit ourselves to that area.

Any place to canoe into climb and camp?
steveA

Trad climber
bedford,massachusetts
Feb 16, 2011 - 06:27pm PT
I'm not sure what you mean by the climbing "is centered around Keene". It's about 2 hours drive north from Keene.

Make sure you do a few classic's on Poko, like Bloody Mary and the Fastest Gun. The fall would be a great time to go. If you have time and never have been there, visit Cathedral Ledge, in New Hampshire.
cintune

climber
the Moon and Antarctica
Feb 16, 2011 - 06:41pm PT
Mitchell Pond Mountain is a nice boat-in/climb/boat-out day trip. It's in the new guide. Make sure to pack everything you'll need and then some, though, 'cause it's way back in there.
Aya K

Trad climber
New York
Feb 16, 2011 - 06:45pm PT
Er, Steve, I don't know what Adirondacks you're climbing in, but I live in Keene (NY) (Home of the High Peaks, as the sign proclaims), and two hours north of us would put you in squarely in Canada.

The highest concentration of developed climbing is definitely around Keene, as you can probably gather from the guidebook, but there's loads of climbing all over the (6 million acre) park. For a trip, heading to the Keene area is probably your best bet in terms of maximizing climbing and minimizing driving.

There is definitely canoe/camp/climbing possible, although someone else can tell you more about that since I've never done it - but for example, down on Lake George (about an hour south of Keene) you can canoe out to Roger's Rock. Watch out, I had a friend drop his partner's entire rack in to the water there once.

Camping abounds... you can camp pretty much anywhere on state land that's 150ft from a road or water source...

tons of roadside cragging, tons of back country cragging, tons of long backcountry adventure climbing, aid climbing, slabs, cracks, roofs, face climbing, you name it... pick your poison! I think I've posted a few TRs in the past. If you root around you can find a few on my blog (that hasn't been updated in over two years) at smellabella.blogspot.com.

I'm more than happy to try to answer any specific or logistical questions you have.
Ksolem

Trad climber
Monrovia, California
Feb 16, 2011 - 06:49pm PT
What I want to know is how it got started calling the place "The Daks?"

Good grief that sounds wonky. No place cool has a name like that.

In 1980 we all went climbing in The Ads. There isn't that better? A nice positive word. Ads.

I'll never forget my first visit to Poco Moonshine. My world was rocked.

Here I'm toproping on a road cut between Long Lake and Tupper on a drizzly day. Whillans harness and EB's. About 1978.
Kris Solem on a road cut in the Ads.
Kris Solem on a road cut in the Ads.
Credit: Julie Lazar

edit: Maybe that's not a Whillans.
steveA

Trad climber
bedford,massachusetts
Feb 16, 2011 - 06:51pm PT
Sorry, I was thinking Keene, New Hampshire.
E thatch

Trad climber
New Hampshire
Feb 16, 2011 - 06:58pm PT
There is an absurd amount of climbing in the Adirondacks. I make several trips a year over there from NH, usually in late summer through fall. You'll be hitting it in prime season. My recommendation would be to set up camp In Chapel Pond. P.161 in the new guide books shows the location of the free campground and all of the climbing with in a mile in either direction. The cragging opportunities here are endless from moderates at the Beer Walls and Creature Walls, to some of the best crack climbing in the East on the spiders web. long multi pitch slab is also within walking distance of the campground, as is the pond which is lovely to jump in on hot days. If bored, the town of Keene is a 5 minute drive away (check out the Noonmark Diner for some of the best pies of your life), and access to two 4,000'+ mountains is under a half mile walk from the campsite.
Lake Placid is a fun place to visit with an epic sandwich shop and fun brewery, among the myriad of tourist traps that haunt the former olympic town, and only 30 minutes or so up the road. Also an hour up the road from here is Pokomoonshine with incredible multipitch trad climbs from 5.8 and up. Burlington is a gorgeous 2hr drive away and could be a fun diversion on a rainy or rest day.

From the campground, awesome multi-pitch trad is within a short drive at Moss Cliff, Pitchoff Chimney cliff, and Hurricane Cliff. Long slides can be climbed in the immediate area as well. There are countless other cliffs that i don't have the experience with to comment on, but I'm sure you're seeing them in the book.

Mountain project has some great route beta:
http://www.mountainproject.com/v/new_york/adirondacks/keene_valley/105912143
http://www.mountainproject.com/v/new_york/adirondacks/lake_champlain_region/106050968


A great video of some classic climbs on the Spider Web:
http://vimeo.com/12317491


Finally, I'm in Wyoming for the semester and miss NH and NY climbing immensely, any chance I can get to chat about the climbing back home is thoroughly enjoyed, so if you have any more focused questions about the 'Dacks or surrounding area feel free to PM me or post up here and I'll do my best to answer them.
-Erik

JoeSimo

Trad climber
New York
Feb 16, 2011 - 07:11pm PT
I went climbing in the adirondakcs once.
sween345

climber
back east
Feb 16, 2011 - 07:41pm PT
Naitch,

You can get some local input here http://www.adkforum.com/index.php?
And here's a story http://marcadrian.wordpress.com/something-wicked/


TRo

climber
Feb 16, 2011 - 08:44pm PT
I hear TR is nice (on the Spider's Web).
wrw

climber
Feb 16, 2011 - 09:42pm PT
This thread is meaningless without photos... let's see em...


Credit: wrw
Credit: wrw
Credit: wrw
Credit: wrw
Credit: wrw
Credit: wrw
Credit: wrw
Credit: wrw
dm
dm
Credit: wrw
lucander

Trad climber
New England
Feb 16, 2011 - 10:31pm PT
Fastest Gun (4 pitch, 5.10-) is one of the best crag routes that I've ever done - anywhere. Every pitch is outstanding and different from the others, and it's just long enough for you to feel like you're on a small scale adventure.

While you're at Poke-O, make sure that you do a fair share of 5.10 ish thin face climbs with mixed small gear and bolts. Remarkable and sharp razor crimps.

Spider's Web is probably the showpiece single pitch crag for steep & sustained crack climbing. Anyone with a sensibility of climbing aesthetics will be able to pick out a line, just make sure you can climb a few steep 5.9 & 5.10 moves in a row before you go there.

Have fun!

D. Lucander
adam d

climber
The Bears, CA
Feb 16, 2011 - 11:04pm PT
nice shots WRW...heh heh

a couple more...

Pete's Farewell
Pete's Farewell


Credit: adam d

Credit: adam d
E thatch

Trad climber
New Hampshire
Feb 16, 2011 - 11:05pm PT
Frosted Mug 5.9, Beer Walls
Frosted Mug 5.9, Beer Walls
Credit: E thatch
The El 5.8, Pitchoff Chimney Cliff
The El 5.8, Pitchoff Chimney Cliff
Credit: E thatch
Tilman's Arete, 5.7, Chapel Pond
Tilman's Arete, 5.7, Chapel Pond
Credit: E thatch
Slim Pickins 5.9+, Spiders Webb
Slim Pickins 5.9+, Spiders Webb
Credit: E thatch
TR 5.10, Spiders Webb
TR 5.10, Spiders Webb
Credit: E thatch
Flying and Drinking, Drinking and Driving 5.10, Beer Walls
Flying and Drinking, Drinking and Driving 5.10, Beer Walls
Credit: E thatch
Fear and Loathing in Keene Valley 5.11b, Spiders Webb
Fear and Loathing in Keene Valley 5.11b, Spiders Webb
Credit: E thatch
Fear and Loathing in Keene Valley, 5.11b Spiders Webb
Fear and Loathing in Keene Valley, 5.11b Spiders Webb
Credit: E thatch
It's Only Entertainment, 5.11c Spiders Webb
It's Only Entertainment, 5.11c Spiders Webb
Credit: E thatch
Aya K

Trad climber
New York
Feb 16, 2011 - 11:39pm PT
Fastest Gun, 5.10? Nah, it's 5.9....
Digging around... I don't have much in the way of rock, alas. Hey, the good pictures of me are in the guidebook ;)

Slim Pickens, 5.9, Spiders Web
Slim Pickens, 5.9, Spiders Web
Credit: Aya K
Fun Country, 5.10-, Barkeater Cliffs
Fun Country, 5.10-, Barkeater Cliffs
Credit: Aya K
Credit: Aya K
Credit: Aya K

neebee

Social climber
calif/texas
Feb 17, 2011 - 12:03am PT
hey there all, say.... thanks for the very excellent shares.... i never knew much about this area....


oh my,thanks to supertopo i know that it can be called the:

"ads"
"daks"
or
"dacks"


:)


and that it CAN also have black flies...
:)



*seriously, this is a really neat thread with lots of nice info...
thanks one and all...
:)

good subject... :)
Aya K

Trad climber
New York
Feb 17, 2011 - 12:08am PT
neebee... did you know the adirondacks are the biggest state park in the lower 48? we're bigger than yosemite + yellowstone + glacier with a lot of acres to spare!

Hey, here's a link to a bunch of new routes that aren't in the book... http://www.adirondackrock.com/newroutes.htm
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