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Prezwoodz

climber
Anchorage
Oct 14, 2011 - 05:38am PT
Hey Paul,

In reference to your comments about Upper Pivot I'm not sure who has been adding bolts to that area. I have seen a lot of cars there this last year so its had a huge increase in traffic. The route you posted of the 6yo on the rock, did she really TR that bottom section? Man I thought it was kind of tough. At least directly from where that person put the bolt in. Of course its only hard for 4ft but oh well.

That bolt on Butt Crack is a silly one. It looks like it has been there for a long time. My thought was that maybe it was one they put in a long time ago for the face climb? I was also surprised that someone added a few more bolts to the 5.8 as I didn't think it was all that bad before. I was up in that area looking for bolts to replace and felt that they were all good (at least newish) except for that one which, of course, had no reason to be replaced. Its old and to close to a crack. I did replace the anchor on the Lefty area. I was surprised to see the bolts on Centre Fire and wondered who put them up as well. I think that most of this specific type of bolting has been limited to the Pivot Area. It seems to see the most traffic of all the areas as well. I haven't seen a single other person installing bolts since I've been climbing on the highway, I am really curious!

I have been climbing all the highway routes to put them in the book. I've also talked with everyone I can think of who put those routes up on the highway. If you know of anyone who I can get in touch with to get more history / information on any of the routes please let me know.

Todd Gordon

Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
Oct 14, 2011 - 09:47am PT
tolman_paul

Trad climber
Anchorage, AK
Oct 14, 2011 - 12:26pm PT
Kelsey,

Pat Rinehart is the only one I know of that is active doing stuff on the highway (but not at upper pivot), but I don't think he's done much lately. I think he and Jason Moncrieff (who's apparently moved out of state) did the bolting on Pivot.

As to new routes, The 3 bolt face route on upper crack in the woods was bolted by me and Pat the got the FA calling it 10a, but that was about 10 years ago, and I forget what it was named. On Party World I bolted the line that starts to the left of Urban Blight and runs pretty much straight up to a set of chains, Pat also did the FA calling it 10b. I named that one Gerard McDonnel Memorial after our friend that was killed on K2.

I'm also the one that's bolted a new line on Good Vibes wall that starts to the left of classic crack, but I still haven't gotten back to finish it. There are 3 bolts, it needs a 4th and a rap station above it. I'd thought I'd finish it this summer, but it just didn't happen.

Oh, I did some rebolting on Sunshine Ridge a week or so back. I put two 1/2" bolts with hangers at the top, replaced the old 1/4" well rusted leeper hanger and button head just below the summit with a ss 3/8" 5 pc rawl, and rapped to the top of the 3rd pitch to pull the 5/16" button head and replaced it with a 1/2" ss 5 pc rawl. I still need to replace the 2nd bolt at the start of the route. Years ago I replaced the 1st and 3rd bolts on the first pitch with 3/8" ss 5pc rawls.

Are you going to include the ice climbs in the new Seward book?
Prezwoodz

climber
Anchorage
Oct 14, 2011 - 03:37pm PT
Paul,

Thanks for the info! You filled a few holes I have for sure. I am glad you replaced those on Sunshine. I was going to go up there and replace them myself so you beat me to it! Let me know if you need a partner to go finish up that one on Good Vibes. Weather is still good for a climb.

The route left of Urban Blight meets with Urban blight after about 3 bolts or so correct? I think I know just which one you are talking about. I am gathering a list of people I am going to send a rough draft of the book to so everyone can help fill in blanks and fix mistakes. Would you mind being on that list?

Todd , Thanks for the tip. I'm going to go buy some gray paint for my next rebolting.

Kelsey
tolman_paul

Trad climber
Anchorage, AK
Oct 14, 2011 - 03:42pm PT
As I recall, it's been a few years, the line L of Urban Blight has 2 bolts on an overnhanging face, two on an arete, the 5th bolt is one of the existing bolts on Urban blight, and then I don't recall if there is another bolt before the belay station or not, I don't think so.

It's looking like my work schedule is going to be crazy busy until early/mid November so not likely I'll be able to get away to finish up the new route this season.
Prezwoodz

climber
Anchorage
Oct 14, 2011 - 04:10pm PT
I rarely have a 1/4 in bolt break off in the whole and unless the rocks bad I usually use the same hole to put the new bolt in.

Paul,
Well if you get ansy let me know. I'll probably be climbing out there on the rock to december.
Studly

Trad climber
WA
Dec 1, 2011 - 01:37pm PT
There are people who climb, and there are people who climb who think they should tell everyone else what to do and how to climb, not sure why. Interesting read.
johnkelley

climber
Anchorage Alaska
Sep 20, 2015 - 06:39pm PT
Kelsey WTF is wrong with you? Did you have to knowingly retro bolt the start of Escape from the Lemming Farm?
Lurkingtard

climber
Sep 20, 2015 - 07:20pm PT
Lol. Like we care.

Canadians


~~~
cavemonkey

Ice climber
ak
Sep 20, 2015 - 07:28pm PT
30 year old
5 star jam crack with a spicy start
been working up my nerves for a couple years for the lead
guess i dont have too anymore

If this was in yosemite, there would be blood
asca bolts too probably! ironic

Kelsey
u are a great photographer
but set a very poor example as a rock climber
please rethink and remove your bolts
and show some f*#kin respect

gotta draw the line in the sand somewhere
cuvvy

Sport climber
arkansas
Sep 20, 2015 - 09:05pm PT
I think you people should move where there is more sun. Might make you happier.
johnkelley

climber
Anchorage Alaska
Sep 21, 2015 - 08:15am PT
Nope cave monkey you can just clip Kelsey's Gays retro bolts now... How many lines is this guy going to retro bolt? This isn't the first time Kelsey has decided to add bolts to old, established routes.


Is the ASCA still giving this guy bolts?
Dommelheimer

Trad climber
Anchorage
Sep 25, 2015 - 06:57pm PT
http://www.mountainproject.com/v/alaska-climbing/110840760__2#a_111067335
couchmaster

climber
Sep 26, 2015 - 07:16am PT


You still don't have Kelseys phone number 3 years later? Jesus. Go look it up John and call him about it. Or go get a beer together and discuss it.

Johnkelly posted:
"Sept 20, 2015 - 06:39pm PT
Kelsey WTF is wrong with you? Did you have to knowingly retro bolt the start of Escape from the Lemming Farm? "

cavemonkey

Ice climber
ak
Sep 26, 2015 - 08:36am PT
This is a current, recent, ongoing issue couch. The lines have been drawn in the sand, and noone is budging. Rather unfortunate, because a bolting-chopping-rebolting-rechopping-internet spraying-rebolting-re rechopping will likely ensue. Chelsea has made a lot of positive climbing related content to this site.....but he is in the wrong on this issue. John is a well known internet sh#t talker, but absolutely in the right on this issue, and I applaud him for bringing this issue to light. It is interesting to ponder what our climbing areas will look like in the future, because there are no laws against indiscriminate bolting, and anyone CAN put bolts wherever they want. Other than the climbing communities self regulation. Example.....Nothing is stopping me from putting a bolt ladder from the bottom to the top of El Cap
qualifier- I have been climbing and establishing routes in this particular area long before either of the two involved had even heard of it and was lucky enough to have climbed/camped/philosophized with the pioneers as well
Tom

Big Wall climber
San Luis Obispo CA
Sep 27, 2015 - 11:19pm PT
It sounds like you guys have a "Nanook of the North" up there.

The one down here has been uncontrollably obnoxious for more than a decade.

Good luck on restricting the vandalism at your crags.
thebravecowboy

climber
The Good Places
Sep 27, 2015 - 11:21pm PT
I heard that dirty laundry is best aired with the shitty, shitty side out.

Congrats, AlaskA!
Bent knee

Ice climber
VT
Sep 28, 2015 - 07:03am PT
Lived in Alaska from 2009- 2013. Encountered Kelsey numerous times both on the highway and in Hatcher. Spoke with him on a number of occasions regarding some of his rebolts, he never seemed to grasp the idea that replacing sh#t bolts doesn't give you the right to change a routes character. Basic argument "it doesn't get climbed with x so I'll do y and people will climb it." Some of my Kelsey bolt rage stemmed from going to a spot that had been bouldered for years and finding bolts on top not far from cracks and trees to TR off.So, one day I found his online route database for updating and spent a bit more than a year retracing his steps. bolts that were loose, out of character, or moved from the original got the chop or noted and someone else did the job. I think only 2 bolts were ASCA provided and iirc I was able to remove the hangers wth just my fingers. At the time not only was he cluster f*cking up routes he was doing a poor job at it.



Don't get me wrong Kelsey really is a nice guy and a solid climber with a lot of love for the sport but some of his goals have blinded him from seeing what he's doing.
Dommelheimer

Trad climber
Anchorage
Sep 28, 2015 - 11:22am PT
This new issue is probably not actually a retrobolt, and I'm pretty sure neither Cavemonkey or John Kelley have actually gone up there to see what is being sprayed about, they might not even have seen a picture, but the new bolts are reportedly 15ft away from the climbs on either side.

The person who bolted this with Kelsey is as against retrobolts (or generally bolts) as anyone I know. It wasn't me as is being suggested.

This isn't an ethical discussion about retro bolts, but rather John's unreasonable dislike of Kelsey. I dislike retros as much as everyone, and while I probably wouldn't have squeezed a new line in there, Roger Pollard (one of the FAs) suggested to Kelsey that he establish a route there.

It would be great to give Kelsey credit for being one of the driving forces behind replacing old rustyass button heads in Alaska, and not let one or two outspoken characters demonize him by making (often) false accusations about him.

johnkelley

climber
Anchorage Alaska
Sep 28, 2015 - 12:58pm PT
Here's what Sweeney, half of the FA party, had to say about it...

"Hadn't heard about the bolts on Lemming Ranch. Though it had good gear...pussies".

No one asked him anything about retro bolting his old routes. The idea that permission was given by the FA party to add bolts is a lie.

The idea that these bolts don't alter the start of Lemming Ranch is false.

The question I've repeatedly asked, that you have continued to dodge, is why? There's tons of unclimbed stone in the area. Tons of untouched rock for you to sink all the bolts into you want without anyone complaining too much. Why does the start of a high quality route need bolts added to it a quarter century after it was first climbed?

Why risk having this controversy at all?

It's a blatant slap in the face right down to the route name. Collateral Damage...

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