Trinity Aretes: Crag Appreciation Thread

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Disaster Master

Social climber
Born in So-Cal, left my soul in far Nor-Cal.
Topic Author's Original Post - Jan 27, 2011 - 10:46pm PT
I love the place. Helped put it on the map. It is near Burnt Ranch off Hwy 299 in Trinity County, in the Humboldt Nation.

So Post your pics and stories. I will start with some teaser shots...
The Trinity Aretes, near Burnt Ranch, CA.
The Trinity Aretes, near Burnt Ranch, CA.
Credit: Disaster Master
Steep enough for you?
Steep enough for you?
Credit: Disaster Master
Credit: Disaster Master
Bennett on the 2nd pitch of "Put Up or SHUT UP!" a Humphrey Route. <br/>
p...
Bennett on the 2nd pitch of "Put Up or SHUT UP!" a Humphrey Route.
photo by E. Chemello, all rights reserved.
Credit: Disaster Master
The start of "El Nino" 5.9 / 5.11 &#40;height dependant start.&#41; Cl...
The start of "El Nino" 5.9 / 5.11 (height dependant start.) Cleaner and more fun than the pic implies.
Credit: Disaster Master
Eric Chemello entering the business of "Burnt Offering" 5.14a. Trinity...
Eric Chemello entering the business of "Burnt Offering" 5.14a. Trinity Aretes, CA.
Credit: Disaster Master
Dru on "4:20 Shadow" 5.11. Trinity Aretes, CA.
Dru on "4:20 Shadow" 5.11. Trinity Aretes, CA.
Credit: Disaster Master
Paul Humphrey on "The Gold Rush" <br/>
photo by E. Chemello, all rights re...
Paul Humphrey on "The Gold Rush"
photo by E. Chemello, all rights reserved.
Credit: Disaster Master
tom woods

Gym climber
Bishop, CA
Jan 27, 2011 - 11:11pm PT
I need to get back in shape. That place is like an hour from my grandparent's house.
mooser

Trad climber
seattle
Jan 27, 2011 - 11:12pm PT
That looks fantastic, Paul! I used to backpack up into the Trinity Alps, and really loved it. I always wondered about the climbing possibilities. Feel encouraged to post a lot more pics!
Disaster Master

Social climber
Born in So-Cal, left my soul in far Nor-Cal.
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 28, 2011 - 02:38pm PT
Eric Chemello and Paul Humphrey, at home beneath the Trinity Aretes.
Eric Chemello and Paul Humphrey, at home beneath the Trinity Aretes.
Credit: Disaster Master
"Whiplash" <br/>
photo by E. Chemello, all rights reserved.
"Whiplash"
photo by E. Chemello, all rights reserved.
Credit: Disaster Master
Credit: Disaster Master
The Locals.
The Locals.
Credit: Disaster Master
The Wedge

Boulder climber
Santa Rosa & Bishop, CA
Jan 28, 2011 - 05:11pm PT
I would like to do some of that climbing but all that great fishing keeps getting in the way.
Capt.

climber
some eastside hovel
Jan 29, 2011 - 12:19am PT
Have to agree with Eric on this one.Got sidetracked by the Trinity River and steelhead.Also it was raining so fishing was obviously the better option.
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Jan 29, 2011 - 12:42am PT
Only been there once, climbed a tiny bit.
It is clear the place totally kicks ass!
Maysho

climber
Soda Springs, CA
Jan 29, 2011 - 01:11am PT
I've had two great trips there, both times at 4th of July weekend. Good shade, some great routes!

Peter
this just in

climber
north fork
Jan 29, 2011 - 10:15am PT
Looks pretty fuking cool. Yes that is steep enough, thanks disaster m
Captain...or Skully

climber
leading the away team, but not in a red shirt!
Jan 29, 2011 - 10:20am PT
Never been there, but Coiler used to rave about the place. Good to see some pics. TFPU, Paul!
Disaster Master

Social climber
Born in So-Cal, left my soul in far Nor-Cal.
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 29, 2011 - 01:14pm PT
A fragment from an old hard drive. Comes off a bit full of myself. But I was. ;)> I will post more pics later. My laptop is lagging.
Credit: Disaster Master

...‘Put Up Or Shut Up, That’s what I’ll call it,’ I envisioned in a moment of clarity. Below me, thirty feet down, forty to the right, Randy sat perched utop a cabin sized boulder. I traversed up & left until I found myself floating above the lip of a gaping limestone grotto’s ceiling, I stuck my pinky into a small air-bubble pocket & twisted my hand until the knuckle jammed in the diminutive hole. Leaning back, I let a single knuckle take my weight. My “gun”, a nine pound battery powered hammer-drill, swayed with my movements, its strap carving into my sholder. My eyes saw double in rainbow hues, a consequence of the Psilocybin ‘shrooms R. & I had ingested. With my free hand I hoisted the drill overhead, pulled the trigger & watched, half-paniced as the limestone pulverized away leaving a void into which I pounded my steel security.

Put Up Or Shut Up. Along with other strange souls I had vocalized & and challenged the void, annoyed at the gawkers who fed like vultures on the carrion of our First Ascents. They would gather around our self-published guide at the local gear store / hangout, counting x’s on the maps; hieroglyphic maps of bolts, cams, nuts & the adventures of Chemello, Wanden, Humphrey, Wright, Leary and the rest. Like armchair quarterbacks, they praised and judged to fuel their own sedentary vanities. They hadn’t a clue. Perhaps in their minds they wanted to feel superior, or at least equal.

As I squirmed and sweated my way up “Put Up…” I was proud. I was also seeing the horizon twist in the corner of my eyes. Flying inside and out, I wiggled a suspect micro-cam into a virgin seam. The protection I used on this ascent should keep me from smacking the ground, but it wouldn’t let me off easy. Solid bolts warded off the worst consequences, but there was gear-craft as well. The keys to a thousand problems, blobs of metal & springs were employed to jam snugly into imperfections in the stone and hold me should I fall like a big-screen super hero. You never know. I’ve had many pieces blow, living to tell the tale through redundancy of protection and the actions of my belayers/friends.

On lead that day, the sky seemed midnight blue, decorated on occasion by horse-tail swirls of vapor. This is where I belonged, struggling up the overhanging prow, feeling maxed out and yet calm....
neebee

Social climber
calif/texas
Jan 29, 2011 - 03:05pm PT
hey there say, disaster master, this is wonderful... thanks for the share...

great shots... and thanks for all the notations and stories...


say, i been to or by, some of the trinty river once...
love them rivers, too...

god bless...

:)
James

climber
My twin brother's laundry room
Jan 29, 2011 - 03:10pm PT
Pasaiano Buttress is one of the best sport routes around.
drunkenmaster

Social climber
santa rosa
Jan 29, 2011 - 04:12pm PT
yeh paisano looks fukn rad! most of the routes there are unlike any other routes anywhere!! the dimples and solder patches and pinch tufa/collonette type things - fukn rad!!! good post as usual disaster master and great job finding and doing all those fa's.
solder patches
solder patches
Credit: drunkenmaster


dimples
dimples
Credit: drunkenmaster

Richie Esquibel sends Cro-Magnon with Eric Chemello hangin around on a...
Richie Esquibel sends Cro-Magnon with Eric Chemello hangin around on a new line in the background.
Credit: drunkenmaster

the first ascent of the Trinity Traverse &#40;i love bouldering, even ...
the first ascent of the Trinity Traverse (i love bouldering, even at sport crags:)
Credit: drunkenmaster
billygoat

climber
Pees on beard to seek mates.
Jan 29, 2011 - 05:30pm PT
Some of the best limestone around. I'd like to go back.
Adamame

climber
Santa Cruz
Apr 23, 2011 - 11:47am PT
Anybody have the word on conditions right now? It looks like rain will continue in the area for a while longer, but how long does it take to dry out? Would the other regional areas (Cecilville, Marble Caves) be any good right now or a few weeks down the line? I was at the Trinity Aretes ten years ago and fell in love with the place and I'm really itching to get back up into the area. And get away from all the busy limestone areas.
drljefe

climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
Apr 23, 2011 - 12:06pm PT
That shot of Goldrush is sick.
eliot carlsen

Social climber
San Diego
May 20, 2011 - 10:09pm PT
Bumping for more pics if you got 'em! Place looks awesome!
Darwin

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
May 21, 2011 - 12:37am PT
Good for climbing posts, Humboldt and I hope Disaster is doing well. I like the beach bouldering more, though.
kennyt

climber
Woodfords,California
Mar 17, 2012 - 07:34pm PT
What are the approaches like?
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