Discussion Topic |
|
This thread has been locked |
| Messages 1 - 89 of total 89 in this topic |
k-man
Gym climber
SCruz
|
|
|
Topic Author's Original Post - Jan 7, 2006 - 07:24pm PT
|
Not that I've taken the award winning flight, but I'm hoping to
provide some inspriation to the crowd.
Not much of a story here, my hook blew a hold while drilling
on a project. I flew a modest 15-20'. Notice my beautiful,
loved friend Jaime who shares the picture (no, not the dude in white...).
So share 'em if you got 'em -- what's the best whipper you took
in '05?
|
|
lucho
Gym climber
San Franpsycho
|
|
where is that Pinnacles?
Oh and where did you get that dancing baby footage from in the other post? I remember when that came out in Ally Mcbeel and the dudes I was interning with at this special fx place were way into that dancing baby. They even made some of their own dancing babies using 3d studio max - http://www.dph.com/projects/Misc/Big_Babies.avi
|
|
WBraun
climber
|
|
Not to knock your project or anything man, but that sure is ugly looking rock. Looks like solidified mud and pebbles.
|
|
bulgingpuke
Trad climber
cayucos california
|
|
And I dont want to sound like a SuperDick but Kate easily takes the prize for whipper of the year.
|
|
k-man
Gym climber
SCruz
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 7, 2006 - 07:54pm PT
|
Hahahaha, hey that happens to be the best rock in the Monument!
And no, it's *left* of POS...
Not everybody can be spoiled by the hardened granite of the High Sierra. Sometimes you gotta take what you can get.
But what the heck, many a YoHardman [well, a few at least] have cut their A4 teeth on that choss.
(Still laughing....)
PS: Since Kate has honors, let's hear about the runner up!
|
|
bulgingpuke
Trad climber
cayucos california
|
|
Does anyone agree that popping on aid is wayyy trippier than free?
|
|
happiegrrrl
Trad climber
New York, NY
|
|
Well....I think I might qualify for the wimpiest whipper of the year.....
Let's see. I have how many pieces of gear, two of which are nuts set through tunnels and the last piece at my chest, in the space the photo frame.... To be fair, it was like my 4th lead, and it was leading at my following limit, but I fell so many times off that stupid crux.
|
|
maculated
Trad climber
San Luis Obispo, CA
|
|
K-Man, is that over on the rock formations across from the Sisters? When I was doing my Epic Ascent of the Sisters in a Day, I noticed some guys go over there and I could hear them talking, but they never showed up on the established routes there.
Hehehehe . . . I made a guy whip on his first lead ever. Accidentally. I figured he could do 5.8 with no probs, but he whipped at the very top and he was a big guy, I got a ride. Kudos to him, though . . . he finished the route after a long break.
And Ty, I'll agree with you that popping on aid is more trippy. One minute you're standing, the next you're not . . . :)
|
|
pud
climber
Sportbikeville
|
|
Devil's Punchbowl, no?
|
|
dirtineye
Trad climber
the south
|
|
radical, that climb she is falling on is so protected there, you'd need dynamite to blow that top piece, and there are still two strong ones right under it. that is southern sandstone, hard as nails. The piece is in a tunnel.
She claims that's her following limit, 5.7 (real 5.7) but that's BS. IF happiegrrrl could just ditch her wimpiegrrrl persona she could probably lead at least a few 5.9s, if they were g rated, and absolutely follow some 5.9.
Terrie, I bet you could leadt pitch 2 of that thing in the BSF.
|
|
dirtineye
Trad climber
the south
|
|
Locker, no decking is not whipping. Decking is decking, and if you walk away unscathed, well, you're damned lucky haha. I know I was.
|
|
Jaybro
Social climber
The West
|
|
My idea of a true whipper is that you have to fall long enough that the rope stretches, then dynamically contracts to it's normal length, thus 'whipping' the climber back up on the rebound.
Like when my feet once brushed the ground but when it was all over I was slightly off the deck.
|
|
climberweenie
Trad climber
San Jose, CA
|
|
|
Jan 10, 2006 - 03:04am PT
|
no whippers this year, but did 25 foot slab fall twice near the start of Crest Jewel. I led everything that day and the early falls made me hug bolts the rest of the way up.
|
|
ricardo
Gym climber
San Francisco, CA
|
|
|
Jan 10, 2006 - 04:58pm PT
|
nothing major to report .. took 4 falls in 2005 ..
1 - 6 feet to the deck in yos,valley (sad and depressing)
2 - 4 foot to a good piece on Central Pillar of Frenzy (pitch 2)
3 - static daisy fall on Wet Denim Daydream ..
3 - 10'+ on the 1st pitch of south seas ..
and yes .. AID falls are scarier.
|
|
handsome B
Gym climber
Saskatoon, Saskatchawan
|
|
|
Jan 10, 2006 - 05:22pm PT
|
|
|
handsome B
Gym climber
Saskatoon, Saskatchawan
|
|
|
Jan 10, 2006 - 05:23pm PT
|
|
|
handsome B
Gym climber
Saskatoon, Saskatchawan
|
|
|
Jan 10, 2006 - 05:24pm PT
|
|
|
handsome B
Gym climber
Saskatoon, Saskatchawan
|
|
|
Jan 10, 2006 - 05:25pm PT
|
|
|
handsome B
Gym climber
Saskatoon, Saskatchawan
|
|
|
Jan 10, 2006 - 05:25pm PT
|
|
|
Burns
Trad climber
Arlington, VA
|
|
|
Jan 10, 2006 - 05:34pm PT
|
ouch... is that guy OK?
Any idea why 2 peices pulled?
|
|
healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
|
|
|
Jan 10, 2006 - 05:35pm PT
|
Aren't you going to post the last shot in the sequence...?
|
|
Matt
Trad climber
places you shouldn't talk about in polite company
|
|
|
Jan 10, 2006 - 05:35pm PT
|
note to self: don't climb on that guy's anchors...
|
|
handsome B
Gym climber
Saskatoon, Saskatchawan
|
|
|
Jan 10, 2006 - 05:37pm PT
|
|
|
handsome B
Gym climber
Saskatoon, Saskatchawan
|
|
|
Jan 10, 2006 - 05:37pm PT
|
|
|
Matt
Trad climber
places you shouldn't talk about in polite company
|
|
|
Jan 10, 2006 - 05:38pm PT
|
keep 'em commin!
|
|
handsome B
Gym climber
Saskatoon, Saskatchawan
|
|
|
Jan 10, 2006 - 05:39pm PT
|
All smiles. Never to climb on Trango gear again.
|
|
Matt
Trad climber
places you shouldn't talk about in polite company
|
|
|
Jan 10, 2006 - 05:39pm PT
|
overheard that day:
"dood- i thought i said to spot me until i get 6 pieces in!"
edit:
cheap ass HB piece of sh#t?
(ok, close)
so those were the trango flex cams, or what?
|
|
Matt
Trad climber
places you shouldn't talk about in polite company
|
|
|
Jan 10, 2006 - 05:45pm PT
|
nice use of naturally occurring sandstone bouldering pad...
|
|
matisse
Trad climber
|
|
|
Jan 10, 2006 - 06:07pm PT
|
man that's ugly. cringe. what was that 2 or 3 pieces that zipped?
|
|
Jaybro
Social climber
The West
|
|
|
Jan 10, 2006 - 06:08pm PT
|
never saw that very last photo before, makes it all better.
Still,
it's not a whipper 'just' a deck.
glad he seems okay.
|
|
happiegrrrl
Trad climber
New York, NY
|
|
|
Jan 10, 2006 - 06:13pm PT
|
Not a whipper, just a deck.
heeheehee....
But a fully-photographed decking, with a happy ending, surely beats a whipper, no?
|
|
Matt
Trad climber
places you shouldn't talk about in polite company
|
|
|
Jan 10, 2006 - 06:14pm PT
|
hmmmm...
seems like if he'd decked w/out whipping, it mighta actually hurt more
|
|
WBraun
climber
|
|
|
Jan 10, 2006 - 06:15pm PT
|
That should never have happened ......
To many pieces were blown.
|
|
Melissa
Gym climber
berkeley, ca
|
|
|
Jan 10, 2006 - 06:18pm PT
|
Looked like a whipper-decking combo. Also looked like your belayer deserves a gold star for getting in the foot or two of slack that kept if from being a solid head-opening decking.
Amazing photos. (Though w/o the last one, I couldn't look at them!) Are they stills from a video?
|
|
handsome B
Gym climber
Saskatoon, Saskatchawan
|
|
|
Jan 10, 2006 - 06:22pm PT
|
Two pieces blew/broke.
Shot with a camera on continuous shoot mode.
|
|
WBraun
climber
|
|
|
Jan 10, 2006 - 06:23pm PT
|
Melissa
Are you at home? I thought I saw Jays truck at ranger rock this afternoon.
Why did the piece break?
|
|
Melissa
Gym climber
berkeley, ca
|
|
|
Jan 10, 2006 - 06:39pm PT
|
Howdy, Werner. Yep, I'm in Berkeley and J is in your neck of the woods, hopefully having a great day outside. (That's why I was playing online so late last night too. ;-)
|
|
Burns
Trad climber
Arlington, VA
|
|
|
Jan 10, 2006 - 06:47pm PT
|
Trango? That almost looks like one of those splitter gear 4 cams. Thats an amazing sequence.
|
|
nate
Trad climber
virginia
|
|
|
Jan 11, 2006 - 10:34am PT
|
I thought the deal was that the gear was too small for the crack. Hey burns that guy looks like Whit.
|
|
Landgolier
climber
the flatness
|
|
|
Jan 11, 2006 - 10:51am PT
|
Splitter 4 cam design, which are now the bottom 5 of the trango flexcam set. That looks like Mal's shorty trigger, but I don't remember what the original splitter triggers look like.
Cam looks way small, and snapped trigger wires would seem to indicate same. I saw the pics thread on rc.com, was there an analysis later?
|
|
JacksColdSweat
Mountain climber
midwest
|
|
|
Jan 11, 2006 - 01:08pm PT
|
didn't he 'knowingly' use the wrong sized cams?
rumor.
JCS
|
|
handsome B
Gym climber
Saskatoon, Saskatchawan
|
|
|
Jan 11, 2006 - 01:14pm PT
|
Wow, a lot of rumors going around. The first piece that blew was the wrong size. The crack (Ruby's Cafe, Indian Creek, Utah) takes yellow metolious. The first piece that blew was a blue metolious. The second piece that blew was a Trango Flex cam, and you can see for yourself what happened to it.
|
|
TradIsGood
Trad climber
Gunks end of country
|
|
|
Jan 11, 2006 - 01:21pm PT
|
I can't tell for sure from the pictures, but did the rock you landed on act as a "shock absorbing lever", i.e. did the side you landed on rock down? It would help explain the smile!
When I was a kid I was about 15 feet up a ladder over an A/C unit, painting shutters. Bottom of ladder slid away from house (downhill). No place to jump, so I rode the ladder down in the position I was in (leaning sideways). I "landed" still on the ladder between the A/C and the house, softly, since the long end of the ladder seesawed up in the air.
No broken gear to display, but I was covered in black paint! Thank fully none of it hit the white siding.
Hope your belayer was treated royally afterwards. She did a great job!
|
|
poop*ghost
Trad climber
Denver, CO
|
|
|
Jan 11, 2006 - 03:17pm PT
|
Falling! Errrrrrr - Ping!
Falling Again! Errrrr - KaFloughie!
Still Goddamned Falling - Errrrrr - Dirt!
that guy walked away from an ankle breaker or worse.
jason
|
|
mark miller
Social climber
Reno
|
|
|
Jan 11, 2006 - 03:56pm PT
|
I hate falling when you can yell " falling " 3 times and your still falling.
|
|
Jaybro
Social climber
The West
|
|
|
Jan 11, 2006 - 04:32pm PT
|
I was belaying my friend on the half dollar pitch on free blast, when;
The rope went slack and started falling toward me. He got out a
"Falling, it's gonna be a big ONE!" in increasingly shrill tones as he shot past me.
|
|
Cloudraker
Trad climber
BC
|
|
|
Jan 11, 2006 - 06:58pm PT
|
Holy shit!!! Those are awesome photos!! Glad to see the guy is alright.
|
|
Elcap102
Sport climber
Durango
|
|
|
Mar 29, 2006 - 03:22pm PT
|
Is that Nick Iverson? if it is you Nick Email me (Ben Ryan) Elcapitan102@hotmail.com I'm gonna head out to the Creek soon
Peace
|
|
Shack
Big Wall climber
Reno NV
|
|
|
Mar 29, 2006 - 03:55pm PT
|
No pictures...
but I took my first "whipper" at NIGHT last year.
It was the C2? pitch off of Ahwanee ledge on WFLT.
Kinda wierd just seeing only the rock that the headlamp illuminates, go wizzing by.
But not as scary as being able to see the exposure!
|
|
BKW
Mountain climber
Central Texas
|
|
|
Mar 29, 2006 - 04:21pm PT
|
Awsome photo sequence. Great to see the last shot and the climber was ok.
|
|
guyman
Trad climber
Moorpark, CA.
|
|
|
Mar 29, 2006 - 05:09pm PT
|
In the third frame you can see the "whip" of the cord. Then the "decking"....So this is a whipperdecker.
Great series of shots...
|
|
Largo
Sport climber
Venice, Ca
|
|
|
Mar 29, 2006 - 05:24pm PT
|
That's an incredible sequence. Never heard of that many cams blowing out. Fricking belayer deserves a trophy.
JL
|
|
WoodySt
Trad climber
Riverside
|
|
|
Mar 29, 2006 - 06:15pm PT
|
Kinda makes me want to go back to pins.
|
|
billygoat
climber
3hrs to El Cap Meadow, 1.25hrs Pinns, 42min Castle
|
|
|
Mar 29, 2006 - 06:42pm PT
|
Okay,
I took a 35+ footer past the belay on the nipple pitch. I was trying to back clean a bunch, and the last thing I had clipped was the top bolt on the ladder leading off the belay. I was reaching out to clip the free belay, so I could back clean more, when I levered the cam out. Quite the whipper. When it was all over I looked down and couldn't find my belayer anywhere. Then I look up and he's been pulled a few feet up past the belay. He's all freakin' out saying (well, screaming), "I fell up! I fell up!" I had to tell him to chill out, so I could get back up there and continue on with the pitch. Needless to say, I backcleaned a whole lot less that I had originally planned and I did not re-attempt to climb the free belay. By the fall factor calculator on Petzl's site I took about a 1.15 or 1.2 fall.
|
|
Tom
Big Wall climber
San Luis Obispo CA
|
|
|
Mar 29, 2006 - 08:38pm PT
|
I'll take POP-POP-POP for fifty feet, Alex.
He blew a fixed head, pin stack, fixed head, pin, and four Screamers 2000 feet up El Capitan.
What is "Me on Tribal Rite"?
Correct. Go again.
No thanx.
|
|
billygoat
climber
3hrs to El Cap Meadow, 1.25hrs Pinns, 42min Castle
|
|
|
Mar 29, 2006 - 11:23pm PT
|
Nice one! We should get Dave Turner to chime in; didn't he take some big one(s) on the new routes he put up? Also, I heard rumors about Kate taking a big, big one...like 130 feet or something???
|
|
Holdplease2
Big Wall climber
Yosemite area
|
|
|
Mar 29, 2006 - 11:58pm PT
|
Hey Billygoat - 120 according to the bros behind me who measured it, not including rope stretch. Broke a rivit hanger and ripped the pitch, which was a rivit ladder. Ugh.
Fun times.
-Kate.
|
|
Mungeclimber
Trad climber
one pass away from the big ditch
|
|
|
Mar 30, 2006 - 12:13am PT
|
as the Metolius Pres once told me in a nice letter when my cam pop'd on a concrete crack...
you have to have hard enough material to deform the metal
sandstone is scary
oh, and to kman's original point- Salathe, Roper, Bridwell, Holmgren, McConachie Bros, all climbed in Pinns, that's good enough for me.
|
|
billygoat
climber
3hrs to El Cap Meadow, 1.25hrs Pinns, 42min Castle
|
|
|
Mar 30, 2006 - 02:09am PT
|
Alright, I'm with bulgingpuke...Kate takes the boat.
Kate...you gotta fall factor on that one? Sounds like it was close to 2.
|
|
healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
|
|
|
Mar 30, 2006 - 03:49am PT
|
Here's the some discussion on RC of that decking fall above.
My take on it was that, once all the cams were rotated up and to the horizontal and the top one popped, it put all the others in play. By "in play" I mean each succeeding cam in turn had to first rotate back down in order to hold the fall. That process of "rotating down" essentially put all the cam lobes in motion against slick creek sandstone with only the hope that they would somehow manage to re-engage, re-grip the rock, and stop the fall. In reality, once the cam lobes are moving [at some speed] against that slick stuff the odds are not all that bad they'll simply keep moving and pull. People tend to be pretty casual about slamming cams in splitters (without paying attention to their depth), then short slinging them and hoping for the best. Most of the time folks get away with it, but this guy got bit on the ass for it.
|
|
johnx01
Trad climber
UK
|
|
|
Mar 30, 2006 - 04:05am PT
|
To the guy with the green bandana : Nice spot kid.
The woman's a top belayer tho'
Reminds me of a friend I was climbing with a few years ago, he'd just come back from the States and was telling us a story of a couple of climbers working a route.
As the leader got to past the hard bit, he turned to his belayer and said
'Hey dude, I'm gonna whip' and just came off for a thirty footer.
We thought this was so cool we would try this approach to falling, we spent the next few weeks trying it, we never got past
'Hey doooooooo - aaaargh'
John
|
|
hardman
Trad climber
love the eastern sierras
|
|
|
Mar 30, 2006 - 09:04am PT
|
gunks local cody who just bagged freerider on el cap this past september
|
|
Eddie
Trad climber
Boston
|
|
|
Mar 30, 2006 - 09:18am PT
|
Are helmets really that out of style these days?
|
|
Holdplease2
Big Wall climber
Yosemite area
|
|
|
Mar 30, 2006 - 09:38am PT
|
Hi Billy: It wouldn't really have been factor two, though the distance might make it seem so.
I ripped/broke 8 pieces of pro and deployed 8 screamers on the way down, reducing the rate of fall. The catch was soft, and the screamer on the pro that caught me didn't even fully deploy.
A bolt 10 feet off the anchor is what stopped the fall. It was the only pro on the pitch that wasn't a head or rivit.
-Kate.
|
|
sevrdhed
Boulder climber
salt lake city
|
|
|
Mar 30, 2006 - 10:29am PT
|
Well, I'm glad I found this thread. Funny to see those pictures posted on the internet.
"That's an incredible sequence. Never heard of that many cams blowing out. Fricking belayer deserves a trophy.
JL "
Haha, she certainly does, if not more. Not only did she do a superb job of belaying, she held it together after watching him deck, AND then proceeded to rope up 10 minutes later and aid up the route to clean it and set up a TR so we could try it. She's got way bigger balls than I do, certainly.
Scariest thing I've ever seen in my entire life, bar none. If I go the rest of my climbing career without watching someone else hit the dirt, I'll be a happy man.
Steve
|
|
hashbro
Trad climber
Not in Southern California
|
|
|
Mar 30, 2006 - 01:17pm PT
|
Unfortunately there are no photos (only blurred memories) of my big whipper on Pinky Paralysis in the Valley in the late 70's. Pat Timson belayed me on the second pitch of the aptly named thin crack.
Not having the appropriate sized nuts (with testosterone levels still high) I went for it anyway. I put in several bad hexes and kept hoping the next one would be better, but it wasn't.
Getting pumped, I finally reached down for my last nut and it pulled straight out sending me backwards out in space. I pulled one, two, three and then four nuts and flew a full forty til Pat stopped me on a hip belay, with only two fixed pins between he, I and eternity.
I found myself dangling in space, having flown over the roof on the first pitch, ribs and ego bruised (or broken).
I guess I must have survived.
|
|
Texplorer
Trad climber
Las Vegas
|
|
|
Mar 30, 2006 - 01:47pm PT
|
From my solo on Zodiac this summer. . . .
. . . Next up was the grey circle which I encountered more spice. The pitch leading up to the Nipple had some spicy hooking and copperhead placements. Sarah, one of the girls in the party above me was still belaying as I approached the anchor. She said she had stick clipped to get to the anchor but I was determined to “climb” to it. I climbed to just below her on a hook she split her legs to give me room to climb up to the belay. Gotta love climbing!!! Well, to make things more interesting I had to place a copperhead to make the final moves to the anchor. After a few minutes of bashing the thing in with lost arrow I lightly bounced it. Seeming OK I stepped onto and moved up between Sarah's split legs. I sat there fiddling with my aiders and started to move up to clip the anchor when . . POW!!! The head blew and I fell back onto my hook. I guess Sarah had good reason to be nervous of all my hooks and pins so close to her crouch. Well, luckily her body was spared and lucky for me my hook bent but held. That was enough excitement for one day and I bivyed there under the Nipple pitch that night savoring one of my best whips.
|
|
hashbro
Trad climber
Not in Southern California
|
|
|
Mar 30, 2006 - 02:09pm PT
|
And of course this was not this year, but it was the best whipper of the year when it occured (posted elsewhere on this forum).
In the early 70's at Suicide rocks I belayed "Bill", a fellow I had just met on the Guillotine, a 5.8 route on the north side of the crag.
With my pal Randy sitting on the ledge next to me and a crowd of onlookers below, "Bill" moved farther and farther off route, grabbed gear that he failed to clip and whined quietly to himself.
Eventually the crowd at the base included the entire Riverside Search and Rescue team, a bunch of concerned climbers and Randy ready to help with the scrape up. All of a sudden "Bill" screamed once. then again and we say his carcass skid across the white slabs of Suicide toward us and the ground. At that instant Randy and I began grabbing tons of rope to lessen "Bill's" fall. We pulled through 40, 50 and then 60 feet of rope when "Bill" hurtled toward the sharp ledge next to our belay stance.
Then suddenly "Bill" stopped, inches above the craggy ledge, his heart still beating and his body hugely shaken. Randy and I were stunned that "Bill" survived, having only fallen 120 feet.
The rescuers from Serch and Rescue jumber up on the stance, cut off his swami belt and shuttled him down the trail as we looked on in horror.
That is the story of "Acapulco Bill" and his Cliff Dive at Suicide rocks.
|
|
Mungeclimber
Trad climber
one pass away from the big ditch
|
|
|
Mar 30, 2006 - 03:34pm PT
|
holy monkey dancing!
which route was he on for the actual fall?
|
|
guyman
Trad climber
Moorpark, CA.
|
|
|
Mar 30, 2006 - 04:04pm PT
|
Good story....
One time I was working on a new root in the valley, "Reefer Madness" as it became known. It starts off from the top of a pillar so one is already up about a pitch with no chance of decking....It's Steve Beadford's lead and he gets up about 60 feet above the 2 bolt belay, 1/4 inch mank, standard of the day, with no stance to bolt from, he found a little flake on the face and put in a thin pin and had us give him a little tenson so he could get his hands free. He starts drilling and the darn flake just comes off!! He sort of turned around, looked down at the three of us hangin on the bolts, and started to scream as he started to fall/slide. This is slab climbing so it started off slowley but in an instant he was really flying, and comming right at US. His foot hit one of the boys at the belay and this sent him spinning as he went past and down, ending up way below us! His ego was a bit brused and after burning one we were ready to go again...only problem...It was my turn.
|
|
hashbro
Trad climber
Not in Southern California
|
|
|
Mar 30, 2006 - 04:40pm PT
|
Mungeclimber,
Acapulco Bill fell somewhere adjacent to the Guillotine. I'm not sure if a route exists in that region or not.
Before fading into obscurity, Acapulco Bill actually became somewhat famous for surviving the fall.After spending the night in the hospital in San Bernadino he returned to Humber Park bruised and shaken, but a star. For the next few weekends, Bill was seen shmoozing around with the likes of John Long and the Stonemasters.
To quote Largo, "that dude had some sac."
|
|
ChrisW
Trad climber
boulder, co
|
|
|
Mar 30, 2006 - 04:54pm PT
|
If this is for 2005. I fell on Romulan Territory on Lumpy Ridge (RMNP) falling 2/3rds of the ~150 foot first pitch. I only bounced off the slab once blowing both climbing shoes almost totally off my feet. Otherwise, It was a pretty clean fall. After the fall, we self rescued and i crawled back to the parking lot wounded but not dead.
2 weeks later I found out I broke Two toes. One on each foot. I was back in the saddle 3 weeks later. Thanks for the Catch Yarrow.
So, I guess this could be in the running for Colorado 2005?
One more thing. No pro blew with my fall. that guy at Indian Creek must have been using the wrong size cam for the crack. don't blame it on the Gear. It's always Pilot error one way or the other.
|
|
Tom
Big Wall climber
San Luis Obispo CA
|
|
|
Mar 31, 2006 - 12:12am PT
|
Pilot Error, n; In aid climbing, when the leader errroneously moves onto something unable to support his weight.
"The decision to not fully bounce-test a fixed head above a bad pin-stack, so as to not fall onto the pin-stack, was Pilot Error and resulted in a zipper fall."
|
|
scuffy b
climber
S Cruz
|
|
|
Mar 31, 2006 - 10:39am PT
|
And if the head failed the bounce test?
|
|
Holdplease2
Big Wall climber
Yosemite area
|
|
|
Mar 31, 2006 - 10:50am PT
|
You replace it...
-Kate.
|
|
scuffy b
climber
S Cruz
|
|
|
Mar 31, 2006 - 11:07am PT
|
Yeah, but what I mean is, if the head fails without the test and drops you onto the stack, won't you be falling onto the same stack when the head fails the bounce test?
|
|
survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
|
|
So we're closing in on the end of 2010.
Who logged the biggest whipper this year?
My own modest entry is the 30-35 footer back in April, but The Brave Little Toaster and I get bonus points for a broken arm, a broken finger and a 50 mile drive to the E.R.!!
Ok, who can beat us?
|
|
xtrmecat
Big Wall climber
Kalispell, Montanagonia
|
|
I logged a doosy on the Trip at the end of May. Tom, thanks for all that you do for us, took this picture of the end result. It should remove any doubt as to how far I went. I may have been jugging by the time the photo was taken, I can't tell for sure.
I was at the flared nut placement one long move before the intermediate anchors on pitch 5 of the Trip, and oh what long trip it's been. I seem to remember the tied off pin's hero loop didn't even resist, the camhook bent beyond all hope of it ever being useful again, a nut and I think a mini cam pulled, and it was I think a .4 or so BD that finally got things slowed up.
I remember the pop, falling, no big deal right, and then having time to realise that the wind noise in my ears was something new, comprehending the fact that I should not still be going, and then cushing in on a soft catch. All air, no touch, pulled my little German belay buddy up off the anchor to the first hanger. Woke him right up if I am not mistaken. He wanted me off the end of the rope asap, even more than I wanted to get back in the groove. Musta hurt him pretty good, scared him for sure.
I am six foot tall, so figure out where the mid anchor point is, come down about four feet and that is where my chest was at the start of the wahooooooo experience. I believe the nut was slotted in the black wetness at the top of the picture and the anchor is a long reach or two moves just out of the frame of the pic. Yes, I screamed a wahoooooo at the top of my lungs upon a succesfull stop. The crowd on Mescalito, the party that had a bad fall at the top, hooted approval.
Best dang memory of ElCap I have. I do believe it to be my personal best air time, too. Thank You Mammut for the new super safe rope, it inspires a sense of warm and fuzzy, well at least warm and wet.
How did I do???
Burly Bob
|
|
HighTraverse
Social climber
Bay Area
|
|
xtreme ol' laddie
For us weenies who've never done the Trip, can you edit the pic to show the mid pitch anchors and the pro that held?
|
|
xtrmecat
Big Wall climber
Kalispell, Montanagonia
|
|
No can do. I am a photo newby. Tom took the pic from the bridge and the anchor is about one move out of the top left of the frame. The dark stain on the top of the pic, in the left leaning crack, 15% of the way from the left edge is where the nut ripped, I think. I don't have any photo edit software to install arrows or text. Last thing on my mind was to document the event, it was after all, the money pitch. I do believe the crux is not this pitch, but a little further up the stone, or so it seemed to me. But it definately is the funnest pitch so far this year.
Burly Bob
|
|
survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
|
|
I think you got me beat by a few feet there Bob! How far do you think it was? Looks like 40 to me.
|
|
Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
|
|
yeah buddy! rock that shit!
|
|
Elcapinyoazz
Social climber
Joshua Tree
|
|
Dude, why are you taking 50 footers on A1?
|
|
Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
|
|
Best I could do was a 25'er on Balch camp flake. I'll try harder next year.
|
|
thebravecowboy
Social climber
Colorado Plateau
|
|
Two lighters, J, trust me.
Anyone had any fine ones this year?
|
|
Reeotch
Trad climber
4 Corners Area
|
|
Word!
|
|
le_bruce
climber
Oakland, CA
|
|
|
Sep 10, 2013 - 01:41am PT
|
Not this year, but in 2011 my partner took a 40+ foot ground fall over by the Chockstone Chimney.
Never want to see something like that again.
He landed out of my field of view, couldn't see him but heard his impact and then silence. I screamed his name three times, dead silence. Bizarre the thoughts that well up in your mind in moments like that. Then I heard a groan. Still the most kickass groan I've ever heard. (Groans not to be confused with moans, def heard better moans).
Mega bonus is that he walked/limped away from it, somehow, down that Ribbon approach.
|
|
thebravecowboy
climber
The Good Places
|
|
|
Aug 20, 2015 - 09:40pm PT
|
not so whippper...
|
|
ß Î Ø T Ç H
climber
/ ne'er–do–well
|
|
|
Aug 20, 2015 - 10:56pm PT
|
Knowing that people die and get paralyzed in the game, now we have an awards show for the winners?
|
|
| Messages 1 - 89 of total 89 in this topic |
|
SuperTopo on the Web
|
Let us know!