Widows Tears

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CF

climber
Topic Author's Original Post - Jan 7, 2011 - 10:00pm PT
If any one is interested the Widows Tears is so full and frozen from the record rainfall and now the cold temps we have in the valley.

I have never seen it so fully frozen, will try to get a pic tomorrow.
fattrad

Mountain climber
GOP Convention
Jan 7, 2011 - 10:15pm PT
Way out of my league.


The evil one
Mtnmun

Trad climber
Top of the Mountain Mun
Jan 7, 2011 - 11:08pm PT
Climbed in 07, WI5 M4 11 pitches Ooooooohhhh lala

http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/309017/Widows-Tears-climbed-1-17-07
em kn0t

Trad climber
isle of wyde
Jan 8, 2011 - 12:21am PT
Fattrad would be interested, cuz he's got some "sharp x-15's and some curved BD thingy."

but I've heard what you really need is a VERY fast car...

don't think my car qualifies, but tempted to totter over there in my chrome-plated walker just to gaze at it in awestruck lust...
The Warbler

climber
the edge of America
Jan 8, 2011 - 12:33am PT
Post em up Chris!

I had a feeling...

When Chappy and I did it it was early March, I think, so there's time for a few ascents.

There are a few other unclimbed ice lines that should be doable for a day or two also with these conditions.

JEleazarian

Trad climber
Fresno CA
Jan 8, 2011 - 01:04am PT
Post em up Chris!


+1

The web cams make the Valley look like an ice climbing paradise right now, but I can't imagine WT being anything but hair-raising ever. It's hard to believe it's been over thirty years since you and Chappy did it, Kevin.

John
The Warbler

climber
the edge of America
Jan 8, 2011 - 01:11am PT
I'm afraid to say it's over 35 years, JE!

Glad I got that out my system - what a fricken epic!


Somebody needs to put the effort into filming that route from three or four different positions at once. It's got amazing architecture.

Mungeclimber

Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
Jan 8, 2011 - 01:38am PT
film it!!!!


pack now, go!!!
Studly

Trad climber
WA
Jan 8, 2011 - 09:54am PT
Would be stoked to see some current photos of it!!
RDB

Social climber
wa
Jan 8, 2011 - 12:55pm PT
Tease! Where are the pictures?
CF

climber
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 8, 2011 - 05:29pm PT
Widows Tears, 1.8.11
Widows Tears, 1.8.11
Credit: CF
The Alpine

Big Wall climber
Jan 8, 2011 - 05:30pm PT
Definitely IN!
Reilly

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
Jan 8, 2011 - 05:35pm PT
Nice hiking conditions!
CF

climber
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 8, 2011 - 05:37pm PT
You can find a larger size at
http://www.flickr.com/photos/goyosemite/5337293788/sizes/l/
Matt

Trad climber
primordial soup
Jan 8, 2011 - 05:42pm PT
seriously?
it's the same temp here in the easy bay, at about 75 feet...

(brrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr)
Walleye

climber
The Hot Kiss on the end of a Wet Fist
Jan 8, 2011 - 05:43pm PT
http://forecast.weather.gov/MapClick.php?site=hnx&smap=1&textField1=37.74528&textField2=-119.59722
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Jan 8, 2011 - 05:54pm PT
Nice shot of the fatness Chris!
The Warbler

climber
the edge of America
Jan 8, 2011 - 06:10pm PT
Get on it guys! Looks good from my armchair thru Tuesday!


But remember.....


It ain't called The Widows Tears for nothing.



Acer

Big Wall climber
AZ
Jan 8, 2011 - 06:19pm PT
Very FAT:)
Levy

Big Wall climber
So Cal
Jan 8, 2011 - 06:27pm PT
Doohood that looks amazing! Wish I could get up there now!

I hope some parties get on it & have some serious fun.
10b4me

Ice climber
Happy Boulders
Jan 8, 2011 - 08:18pm PT
that does look pretty fat.
stevep

Boulder climber
Salt Lake, UT
Jan 8, 2011 - 08:36pm PT
Wow. That makes me want to resume ice climbing.
Inner City

Trad climber
East Bay
Jan 8, 2011 - 09:33pm PT
This thread is fat! Werner gonna do it?
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Jan 8, 2011 - 09:37pm PT
Hope someone gets to do it.
I've got the tools and a fast car, but it ain't gonna be me.
Walleye

climber
The Hot Kiss on the end of a Wet Fist
Jan 8, 2011 - 09:57pm PT
Roy Dandy to the rescue??
The Warbler

climber
the edge of America
Jan 8, 2011 - 10:28pm PT
Looks like once in a decade conditions to me.

G_Gnome

Trad climber
In the mountains... somewhere...
Jan 8, 2011 - 10:57pm PT
Where's Waugh when you need him? Or Jack Roberts? I bet I could get Waugh to haul me up that thing!

It looks sooooo thick that I am actually considering how to get there and with whom...
Flanders!

Trad climber
June Lake, CA
Jan 8, 2011 - 11:47pm PT


Hope it hangs in there for awhile, that is fat, really fat.............but like many who'd
like to do, or re-do the Tears I'm out of range currently, in Ouay for 10 days.
hope, hope, hop'in it hangs in there,


Doug
Brian Biega

climber
Truckee, CA
Jan 9, 2011 - 12:44am PT
Hoping for the same Doug!

Looks like it could be there for a couple months.

Cheers, Brian
BMcC

Trad climber
Livermore
Jan 9, 2011 - 01:38am PT
Great pic! It does look really quite fat.

I'm hoping, like Flanders, that it hangs in there (because like Doug, I'm in Ouray, too).
Brian Biega

climber
Truckee, CA
Jan 9, 2011 - 11:13am PT
CF- Thanks for the pictures!

Cheers, Brian
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Jan 9, 2011 - 12:55pm PT
I asked Eric yesterday if he had his ice tools, he said yes, but that he hadn't really used them in a bit (or at all)... I left mine at home, knowing deep down that I didn't have a partner for that sort of insanity... oh well, one can always hope for continued conditions, but it is California, and if you're not on it now, when it is in, well, you know the story...

and damn, I missed that one time in many decades that Yosemite Falls was in, for a few hours, probably long enough to solo that smear...

be careful out there y'all, ice is nice but rock does...
superbum

Trad climber
Bishop, CA
Jan 9, 2011 - 03:05pm PT
If only Tioga was open! argh. One day, Bishop to Bishop is not enough time! Damn jobs...

There is a nasty cough going around...
Studly

Trad climber
WA
Jan 9, 2011 - 03:25pm PT
Somebody please do this climb so I can live vicariously thru your photos!
Lambone

Ice climber
Ashland, Or
Jan 9, 2011 - 03:31pm PT
wow...
Brian Biega

climber
Truckee, CA
Jan 10, 2011 - 12:46am PT
No updates on this? Was hoping that someone with a fast car, new screws and lots of enthusiasm would have popped it off by now...

Cheers, Brian
Decko

Trad climber
Colorado
Jan 10, 2011 - 12:54am PT
What's the approach like ????

From where do you leave the road ...

Elevation of start/finish ????

Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Jan 10, 2011 - 01:48am PT
No takers yet?!?
GDavis

Social climber
SOL CAL
Jan 10, 2011 - 02:53am PT
Was in the valley this weekend, coulnd't have been more beautiful.

1/9/2011
1/9/2011
Credit: GDavis
scuffy b

climber
Three feet higher
Jan 10, 2011 - 12:41pm PT
Some guys with serious expressions on their faces were looking at it
through binoculars yesterday.
There may have been drooling involved, but I'm not positive.
wbw

climber
'cross the great divide
Jan 10, 2011 - 12:44pm PT
A couple of you guys from Cali better get it together and climb that thing, else I'm gonna buy some airline tickets, bring a posse of CO greenies out and turn the Widows Tears into a peg board.

Just dreaming. I would love to do it, but Cody is calling for MLK Day.
HighTraverse

Trad climber
Bay Area
Jan 10, 2011 - 12:44pm PT
What's the approach like ????

From where do you leave the road ...

Elevation of start/finish ????

If you have to ask it's out of your league.
Mine too of course.

leaves me drooling though.

It'll likely be gone by MLK day.
nutjob

Trad climber
Berkeley, CA
Jan 10, 2011 - 01:30pm PT
I don't have a deep reservoir of experience, but I've never seen more snow plastered on Middle Cathedral than yesterday. I was imagining mixed lines up that thing, with a continuous ribbon of ice from Katwalk to the summit. It was an awesome climbing day at El Cap Base. Hopefully will get together some pretty pics to post in the next few days.
The Warbler

climber
the edge of America
Jan 10, 2011 - 01:55pm PT
Widows Tears approach - park a bit uphill from a point directly below the thing on a long graded shoulder. Cross the road, and wallow uphill for about a thousand vertical feet. Solo up the fall line into the bowl below the business on 45 degree ice slabs, posthole another hundred or two vertical feet higher and you're there.

Vertical rise from base of pitch 1 to top is about 1000 ft, most parties do 11 pitches or thereabouts.

After topout walk west along rim and descend gully to Inspiration Point.
hoipolloi

climber
A friends backyard with the neighbors wifi
Jan 10, 2011 - 02:43pm PT
Storm coming, but temps are rising after that....it will be a nice show when it all falls down...


...but when will that be!
pvalchev

Social climber
Mountain View, CA / Calgary, AB
Jan 10, 2011 - 05:24pm PT
Attempted it on Sunday, but bailed, it was warmer up there than the valley. Detailed report and a few pics @ http://sightly.net/peter/trips/widowstears2010/

For approach, we found none of the pullouts were plowed, so the best thing seems to be to park at Tunnel View - it is about 1/2 mile walk down the road from there until you reach the drainage. Curious if anybody else gets on it!

Peter
eKat

climber
http://www.ecokath.com/
Jan 10, 2011 - 05:26pm PT
pvalchev. . .

TPFU!

Nice write up!

eKat
fattrad

Mountain climber
GOP Convention
Jan 10, 2011 - 05:30pm PT
Pavel,

Nice try, I'm sure Misha would want in on this.



The evil one
em kn0t

Trad climber
isle of wyde
Jan 10, 2011 - 05:47pm PT
It looks good from far! But ended up far from good...

Pavel, the above has to be the best quote of the day.

Thanks for the awesome writeup and photos--sure puts a dousing of ice-cold reality check on this armchair fantasizer.

Hats (& helmets) off to you and Karen! Glad you played it safe.

Em
hoipolloi

climber
A friends backyard with the neighbors wifi
Jan 10, 2011 - 05:47pm PT
Nice try! Looks like it needs some even colder temps to really freeze up and then the window is probably going to be small to get it done!
Flanders!

Trad climber
June Lake, CA
Jan 10, 2011 - 06:05pm PT


Peter, thanks for posting your experience !


Doug
HighTraverse

Trad climber
Bay Area
Jan 10, 2011 - 06:42pm PT
good on ya going up there.
Thanks for the TR
The Warbler

climber
the edge of America
Jan 10, 2011 - 08:16pm PT
That "plowed path" all the way to the base is a bit disconcerting, and so's the rubble in the forest below. The water running under the ice on the first pitch adds to the drama, for sure. Every day ice fell from the amphitheater's rim and found its way to the fall line below. All those things were part of the picture when we went for it.

But the climb goes thru cycles, you have to get to know it, and you have to move when things are good enough. It has gotten really good ice on it top to bottom in the past, but it's real rare.

I could see all the detail of the rock and lichen on it behind the thin layer of ice I climbed on a lot of that first pitch. The steepest pitch in the middle of the route was near vertical snow. I was sinking my axe handles horizontally to the picks and kicking steps to get up it. So it was with the second to last last pitch too, less steep, but no protection.

Above the last traverse ledge on pitch 9 lots of water was moving underneath as we climbed it.
Three days after we topped out pitch 5 was in pieces in the forest, and the plowed path was a little deeper.

It's a dicey route, no doubt about it.




pc

climber
Jan 10, 2011 - 08:28pm PT
Great write-up and photos Peter. Fun adventure and I'm glad you played it safe too.

Cheers,
pc
RDB

Social climber
wa
Jan 10, 2011 - 09:59pm PT
Great stuff guys. Thanks for posting your experiences. Obviously the route is a real challenge in many ways. Hopefully we'll get another cold snap.
cleo

Social climber
Berkeley, CA
Jan 11, 2011 - 12:55am PT
Wow Thanks! I hope it shapes up and you get on it this year (and tell us about it!)

Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Jan 11, 2011 - 01:01am PT
Thanks for sharing, Peter.
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Jan 11, 2011 - 01:06am PT
thanks Peter, it makes me feel better not grabbing my ice tools on Saturday night and returning Sunday morning (not that that was going to happen anyway...)

good on you guys going up there and getting to it! even if discretion turned out to be the choice
BMcC

Trad climber
Livermore
Jan 11, 2011 - 01:07am PT
Quite the ephemeral piece of ice (sure looked promising and fat in the pic CF posted)- I hope you can get on it in climbable conditions someday.

Thanks for giving it a go and for posting your pics and story.
WBraun

climber
Jan 11, 2011 - 01:09am PT
Think all you people could do it.

Two LEO valley rangers did it, and they just drive around and sit in cars all day.

You just stick those things in the ice and walk up .....
The Warbler

climber
the edge of America
Jan 11, 2011 - 01:20am PT
My, how things have changed!

LEOs on The Tears, Werner? It wasn't Connelly was it?


If you told me that was going to happen BITD, I would have laughed out loud and told you you were out of yer mind!

I would have believed that climbers would someday only climb on fake walls indoors before I believed that would happen!

That's awesome!
WBraun

climber
Jan 11, 2011 - 01:23am PT
These guys drive around on shift all week and on their days off do Nose in a Day, Half Dome in a few hours.

Then back on shift looking like they never did anything .....
Matt

Trad climber
primordial soup
Jan 11, 2011 - 01:23am PT
Two LEO valley rangers did it, and they just drive around and sit in cars all day.

that's not entirely true werner,
sometimes those guys park their cars and hide behind trees in C4.
WBraun

climber
Jan 11, 2011 - 01:24am PT
Off course they hide behind the trees to learn the secret climbing methods ....
The Warbler

climber
the edge of America
Jan 11, 2011 - 01:28am PT
That has to make a difference in the way climbers get treated, or tooled nowadays.

john hansen

climber
Jan 11, 2011 - 02:06am PT
I know this is a stupid question ,, but has Ribbon Falls ever frozen in?

here is a picture showing at least some ice


Credit: john hansen
The Warbler

climber
the edge of America
Jan 11, 2011 - 02:10am PT
I've never seen it.

I did see The Apron with an wide ice streak all the way up it into that bowl to the southeast of Glacier Point. You'd have to move real fast for that one.

Didn't somebody do Illouette Falls?
Walleye

climber
The Hot Kiss on the end of a Wet Fist
Jan 11, 2011 - 11:13am PT
Fosburg and Shipley did the first ascent of Illilouette Fall, and the right (I think it's the right) side of Nevada Fall, also.. Kevin and Walt also did the first and only full ascent of the 2000 ft Sentinel Falls.
pc

climber
Jan 11, 2011 - 11:41am PT
WB, Great motivation for the rest of us 9-5 wannabes. And never under estimate the power of donuts and coffee ;)

Cheers,
hoipolloi

climber
A friends backyard with the neighbors wifi
Jan 11, 2011 - 02:26pm PT
Which valley rangers did it, and when? This season?

Matt

Trad climber
primordial soup
Jan 11, 2011 - 02:43pm PT
no, WB has mentioned that ascent before this winter.
somehow i am remembering '03, but not sure
johntp

Trad climber
socal
Jan 11, 2011 - 11:20pm PT
Back to the front page. It is beyond me, but if it stays in condition it would be great to see a TR.
Flanders!

Trad climber
June Lake, CA
Jan 13, 2011 - 08:37pm PT


So how's the ice in the Valley holding up ? Sentinel Falls ? Widows Tears ? Silver Strand ?

need some pics and info for those of us out of town.


Dpoug
mctwisted

climber
Jan 13, 2011 - 09:25pm PT
doug, the ice is still hangin but supposed to be 68 then up to 70 degrees in el portal the next couple days
Decko

Trad climber
Colorado
Jan 13, 2011 - 09:50pm PT
Where is Flanders ?????

Walleye

climber
The Hot Kiss on the end of a Wet Fist
Jan 13, 2011 - 09:54pm PT
Flanders, Fuhgeddaboudditt!!!
climblight

Mountain climber
Northern NV
Jan 16, 2011 - 01:29pm PT
Hey Peter, very cool attempt. Good on ya for your discretionary retreat. Makes me feel better about abandoning my attempt on an ephemeral route today.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Jan 16, 2011 - 01:32pm PT
Still no takers yet...I guess its the video games...
Walleye

climber
The Hot Kiss on the end of a Wet Fist
Jan 16, 2011 - 01:52pm PT
Pieces of that thing are dropping off like skin on a leapper!
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Jan 16, 2011 - 02:06pm PT
I always thought the most attractive aspect of ice climbing, intellectually, was the ephemeral nature of the medium... and the fact that that medium changes as we climb it....

sitting up there, thinking what the diagram below meant to my immediate situation....
....some decry atavism... but there is something sublime of sublimation at temperatures we experience with the change of season.

Life would not be so interesting without the wonderful properties of H2O...

in deference to Tami's characterization, perhaps the ice climber thinks:
"if m= 80kg * 10 m/s^2 = 800 Newtons,
and P = 800 N * 1 cm^2 = 8,000 kPascals,
then where are we on the melt curve?"



ice climbers live on the line from B to C...
Todd Eastman

climber
Bellingham, WA
Jan 16, 2011 - 02:15pm PT
Doesn't rock have similar characteristics... over a longer time frame?
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Jan 16, 2011 - 02:17pm PT
rock doesn't float in its solid state... H2O does... (because of the slope of the line from "B to C")

how cool is that!
YosemiteSteve

Trad climber
CA
Jan 16, 2011 - 04:06pm PT
Frazil ice doesn't really float, it has more of a neutral density. That's why it behaves more like lava than ice.
j-tree

Big Wall climber
bay area, ca
Mar 25, 2011 - 12:58pm PT
Bump for anyone thinking of going up to check this out now?

A webcam from today of ahwahnee, I'd imagine this bodes well for the tears as well.
3/25
3/25
Credit: j-tree
Maysho

climber
Soda Springs, CA
Mar 25, 2011 - 01:05pm PT
Not really, plastered with snow does not make great ice conditions. What forms the Tears and others is about 4 feet on the rim, then clear days with sun melt, and cold nights. It has been done in March, but many more ascents in December when we get a cold snap with nightime temps in the teens.

There is plenty of snowpack, but doubtful that we will get nighttime temps cold enough.

Peter
j-tree

Big Wall climber
bay area, ca
Mar 25, 2011 - 01:28pm PT
Accuweather app shows clear 60ish days and 32ish nights all next week after the weekend's snow.
maybe?

what is cold enough?
Maysho

climber
Soda Springs, CA
Mar 25, 2011 - 01:30pm PT
Low 20's, when the ice really goes off, we have nights in the low teens.

Peter
j-tree

Big Wall climber
bay area, ca
Mar 25, 2011 - 02:23pm PT
sad face. I was hoping to read another tr before the winter finally gave out
T H

Boulder climber
bouldering
Jan 5, 2013 - 03:40am PT
Fosburg and Shipley did the first ascent of Illilouette Fall, and the right (I think it's the right) side of Nevada Fall, also.. Kevin and Walt also did the first and only full ascent of the 2000 ft Sentinel Falls.
I seem to remember Fosburg posting a fairly detailed account of Illilouette, but I can't find it now.
hossjulia

Trad climber
Where the Hoback and the mighty Snake River meet
Jan 5, 2013 - 09:01am PT
Saw something on FB that Jason Torlano & partner just did Windows tears. Was that an old post come to surface or did it just get done? (Hardish to tell on FB......)
10b4me

Boulder climber
Somewhere on 395
Jan 5, 2013 - 11:34am PT
Julia, it just got done on Jan 1st
Cragman

Trad climber
June Lake, California....via the Damascus Road
Jan 10, 2013 - 05:14pm PT
I believe Flanders is on his way over there for another lap on the Tears...
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Jan 10, 2013 - 05:31pm PT
Needs an alpine start. Will be at least 5 parties on it tomorrow and 7 on Saturday!
Tork

climber
Yosemite
Jan 10, 2013 - 05:31pm PT
Who did he talk into it Dean? Or should I not answer my phone?
Cragman

Trad climber
June Lake, California....via the Damascus Road
Jan 10, 2013 - 05:38pm PT
I'm not sure, Jeff. We were having a conversation a few days ago about the forecasted LOW temps coming in starting today.....he mentioned the Tears off-handedly....then later, told my wife he was leaving for about a week.

When I plowed out his driveway this morning, I noticed some tracks and his VW bug was gone.....

Anyway, I expect he is over there, and if he hasn't yet, will find someone in the mood...
tom Carter

Social climber
Jan 10, 2013 - 06:11pm PT
Could be, but when I talked with Flanders a couple of days ago and he was headed to Colorado.
Cragman

Trad climber
June Lake, California....via the Damascus Road
Jan 10, 2013 - 06:13pm PT
Yeah, Tom...he had mentioned Ouray.
Cragman

Trad climber
June Lake, California....via the Damascus Road
Jan 11, 2013 - 10:24am PT
Just spoke with the knucklehead....he's in Ouray.
Bruce Kay

Gym climber
BC
Jan 11, 2013 - 11:42am PT
hey you guys, from my dining table things are looking promising for the Widows Tears ......


http://wxmaps.org/pix/avnmr.96hr.html


Did it survive the warm spell?
WBraun

climber
Jan 11, 2013 - 11:49am PT
19 degrees F this morning.

The Valley floor is all ice and the roads are R2 ......

http://cdec.water.ca.gov/jspplot/jspPlotServlet.jsp?sensor_no=8288&end=01/11/2013+08:50&geom=small&interval=2&cookies=cdec01

Tuolumne meadows temps this morning at minus -17

http://cdec.water.ca.gov/jspplot/jspPlotServlet.jsp?sensor_no=1643&end=01/11/2013+08:52&geom=small&interval=2&cookies=cdec01
survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
Jan 11, 2013 - 12:42pm PT
Needs an alpine start. Will be at least 5 parties on it tomorrow and 7 on Saturday!


Could this be true?!

No way in hell would I want to be under 3-4 other parties on that thing....
Bruce Kay

Gym climber
BC
Jan 11, 2013 - 01:01pm PT
I thought that place was full of waterfalls. What else is good?
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