Discussion Topic |
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CF
climber
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Topic Author's Original Post - Jan 7, 2011 - 10:00pm PT
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If any one is interested the Widows Tears is so full and frozen from the record rainfall and now the cold temps we have in the valley.
I have never seen it so fully frozen, will try to get a pic tomorrow.
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em kn0t
Trad climber
isle of wyde
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Fattrad would be interested, cuz he's got some "sharp x-15's and some curved BD thingy."
but I've heard what you really need is a VERY fast car...
don't think my car qualifies, but tempted to totter over there in my chrome-plated walker just to gaze at it in awestruck lust...
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JEleazarian
Trad climber
Fresno CA
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Post em up Chris!
+1
The web cams make the Valley look like an ice climbing paradise right now, but I can't imagine WT being anything but hair-raising ever. It's hard to believe it's been over thirty years since you and Chappy did it, Kevin.
John
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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film it!!!!
pack now, go!!!
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Studly
Trad climber
WA
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Would be stoked to see some current photos of it!!
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RDB
Social climber
wa
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Tease! Where are the pictures?
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CF
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 8, 2011 - 05:29pm PT
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Nice hiking conditions!
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Matt
Trad climber
primordial soup
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seriously?
it's the same temp here in the easy bay, at about 75 feet...
(brrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr)
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Nice shot of the fatness Chris!
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Acer
Big Wall climber
AZ
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Very FAT:)
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Levy
Big Wall climber
So Cal
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Doohood that looks amazing! Wish I could get up there now!
I hope some parties get on it & have some serious fun.
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10b4me
Ice climber
Happy Boulders
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that does look pretty fat.
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stevep
Boulder climber
Salt Lake, UT
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Wow. That makes me want to resume ice climbing.
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Inner City
Trad climber
East Bay
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This thread is fat! Werner gonna do it?
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Hope someone gets to do it.
I've got the tools and a fast car, but it ain't gonna be me.
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G_Gnome
Trad climber
In the mountains... somewhere...
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Where's Waugh when you need him? Or Jack Roberts? I bet I could get Waugh to haul me up that thing!
It looks sooooo thick that I am actually considering how to get there and with whom...
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Flanders!
Trad climber
June Lake, CA
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Hope it hangs in there for awhile, that is fat, really fat.............but like many who'd
like to do, or re-do the Tears I'm out of range currently, in Ouay for 10 days.
hope, hope, hop'in it hangs in there,
Doug
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Brian Biega
climber
Truckee, CA
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Hoping for the same Doug!
Looks like it could be there for a couple months.
Cheers, Brian
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BMcC
Trad climber
Livermore
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Great pic! It does look really quite fat.
I'm hoping, like Flanders, that it hangs in there (because like Doug, I'm in Ouray, too).
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Brian Biega
climber
Truckee, CA
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CF- Thanks for the pictures!
Cheers, Brian
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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I asked Eric yesterday if he had his ice tools, he said yes, but that he hadn't really used them in a bit (or at all)... I left mine at home, knowing deep down that I didn't have a partner for that sort of insanity... oh well, one can always hope for continued conditions, but it is California, and if you're not on it now, when it is in, well, you know the story...
and damn, I missed that one time in many decades that Yosemite Falls was in, for a few hours, probably long enough to solo that smear...
be careful out there y'all, ice is nice but rock does...
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superbum
Trad climber
Bishop, CA
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If only Tioga was open! argh. One day, Bishop to Bishop is not enough time! Damn jobs...
There is a nasty cough going around...
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Studly
Trad climber
WA
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Somebody please do this climb so I can live vicariously thru your photos!
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Lambone
Ice climber
Ashland, Or
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wow...
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Brian Biega
climber
Truckee, CA
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Jan 10, 2011 - 12:46am PT
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No updates on this? Was hoping that someone with a fast car, new screws and lots of enthusiasm would have popped it off by now...
Cheers, Brian
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Decko
Trad climber
Colorado
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Jan 10, 2011 - 12:54am PT
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What's the approach like ????
From where do you leave the road ...
Elevation of start/finish ????
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Jan 10, 2011 - 01:48am PT
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No takers yet?!?
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GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
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Jan 10, 2011 - 02:53am PT
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Was in the valley this weekend, coulnd't have been more beautiful.
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scuffy b
climber
Three feet higher
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Jan 10, 2011 - 12:41pm PT
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Some guys with serious expressions on their faces were looking at it
through binoculars yesterday.
There may have been drooling involved, but I'm not positive.
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wbw
climber
'cross the great divide
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Jan 10, 2011 - 12:44pm PT
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A couple of you guys from Cali better get it together and climb that thing, else I'm gonna buy some airline tickets, bring a posse of CO greenies out and turn the Widows Tears into a peg board.
Just dreaming. I would love to do it, but Cody is calling for MLK Day.
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HighTraverse
Trad climber
Bay Area
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Jan 10, 2011 - 12:44pm PT
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What's the approach like ????
From where do you leave the road ...
Elevation of start/finish ????
If you have to ask it's out of your league.
Mine too of course.
leaves me drooling though.
It'll likely be gone by MLK day.
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nutjob
Trad climber
Berkeley, CA
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Jan 10, 2011 - 01:30pm PT
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I don't have a deep reservoir of experience, but I've never seen more snow plastered on Middle Cathedral than yesterday. I was imagining mixed lines up that thing, with a continuous ribbon of ice from Katwalk to the summit. It was an awesome climbing day at El Cap Base. Hopefully will get together some pretty pics to post in the next few days.
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hoipolloi
climber
A friends backyard with the neighbors wifi
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Jan 10, 2011 - 02:43pm PT
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Storm coming, but temps are rising after that....it will be a nice show when it all falls down...
...but when will that be!
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pvalchev
Social climber
Mountain View, CA / Calgary, AB
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Jan 10, 2011 - 05:24pm PT
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Attempted it on Sunday, but bailed, it was warmer up there than the valley. Detailed report and a few pics @ http://sightly.net/peter/trips/widowstears2010/
For approach, we found none of the pullouts were plowed, so the best thing seems to be to park at Tunnel View - it is about 1/2 mile walk down the road from there until you reach the drainage. Curious if anybody else gets on it!
Peter
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em kn0t
Trad climber
isle of wyde
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Jan 10, 2011 - 05:47pm PT
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It looks good from far! But ended up far from good...
Pavel, the above has to be the best quote of the day.
Thanks for the awesome writeup and photos--sure puts a dousing of ice-cold reality check on this armchair fantasizer.
Hats (& helmets) off to you and Karen! Glad you played it safe.
Em
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hoipolloi
climber
A friends backyard with the neighbors wifi
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Jan 10, 2011 - 05:47pm PT
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Nice try! Looks like it needs some even colder temps to really freeze up and then the window is probably going to be small to get it done!
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Flanders!
Trad climber
June Lake, CA
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Jan 10, 2011 - 06:05pm PT
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Peter, thanks for posting your experience !
Doug
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HighTraverse
Trad climber
Bay Area
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Jan 10, 2011 - 06:42pm PT
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good on ya going up there.
Thanks for the TR
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pc
climber
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Jan 10, 2011 - 08:28pm PT
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Great write-up and photos Peter. Fun adventure and I'm glad you played it safe too.
Cheers,
pc
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RDB
Social climber
wa
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Jan 10, 2011 - 09:59pm PT
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Great stuff guys. Thanks for posting your experiences. Obviously the route is a real challenge in many ways. Hopefully we'll get another cold snap.
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cleo
Social climber
Berkeley, CA
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Jan 11, 2011 - 12:55am PT
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Wow Thanks! I hope it shapes up and you get on it this year (and tell us about it!)
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Jan 11, 2011 - 01:01am PT
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Thanks for sharing, Peter.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Jan 11, 2011 - 01:06am PT
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thanks Peter, it makes me feel better not grabbing my ice tools on Saturday night and returning Sunday morning (not that that was going to happen anyway...)
good on you guys going up there and getting to it! even if discretion turned out to be the choice
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BMcC
Trad climber
Livermore
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Jan 11, 2011 - 01:07am PT
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Quite the ephemeral piece of ice (sure looked promising and fat in the pic CF posted)- I hope you can get on it in climbable conditions someday.
Thanks for giving it a go and for posting your pics and story.
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WBraun
climber
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Jan 11, 2011 - 01:09am PT
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Think all you people could do it.
Two LEO valley rangers did it, and they just drive around and sit in cars all day.
You just stick those things in the ice and walk up .....
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WBraun
climber
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Jan 11, 2011 - 01:23am PT
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These guys drive around on shift all week and on their days off do Nose in a Day, Half Dome in a few hours.
Then back on shift looking like they never did anything .....
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Matt
Trad climber
primordial soup
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Jan 11, 2011 - 01:23am PT
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Two LEO valley rangers did it, and they just drive around and sit in cars all day.
that's not entirely true werner,
sometimes those guys park their cars and hide behind trees in C4.
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WBraun
climber
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Jan 11, 2011 - 01:24am PT
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Off course they hide behind the trees to learn the secret climbing methods ....
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john hansen
climber
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Jan 11, 2011 - 02:06am PT
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I know this is a stupid question ,, but has Ribbon Falls ever frozen in?
here is a picture showing at least some ice
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pc
climber
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Jan 11, 2011 - 11:41am PT
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WB, Great motivation for the rest of us 9-5 wannabes. And never under estimate the power of donuts and coffee ;)
Cheers,
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hoipolloi
climber
A friends backyard with the neighbors wifi
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Jan 11, 2011 - 02:26pm PT
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Which valley rangers did it, and when? This season?
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Matt
Trad climber
primordial soup
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Jan 11, 2011 - 02:43pm PT
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no, WB has mentioned that ascent before this winter.
somehow i am remembering '03, but not sure
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johntp
Trad climber
socal
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Jan 11, 2011 - 11:20pm PT
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Back to the front page. It is beyond me, but if it stays in condition it would be great to see a TR.
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Flanders!
Trad climber
June Lake, CA
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Jan 13, 2011 - 08:37pm PT
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So how's the ice in the Valley holding up ? Sentinel Falls ? Widows Tears ? Silver Strand ?
need some pics and info for those of us out of town.
Dpoug
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mctwisted
climber
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Jan 13, 2011 - 09:25pm PT
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doug, the ice is still hangin but supposed to be 68 then up to 70 degrees in el portal the next couple days
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Decko
Trad climber
Colorado
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Jan 13, 2011 - 09:50pm PT
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Where is Flanders ?????
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climblight
Mountain climber
Northern NV
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Jan 16, 2011 - 01:29pm PT
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Hey Peter, very cool attempt. Good on ya for your discretionary retreat. Makes me feel better about abandoning my attempt on an ephemeral route today.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Jan 16, 2011 - 01:32pm PT
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Still no takers yet...I guess its the video games...
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Jan 16, 2011 - 02:06pm PT
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I always thought the most attractive aspect of ice climbing, intellectually, was the ephemeral nature of the medium... and the fact that that medium changes as we climb it....
sitting up there, thinking what the diagram below meant to my immediate situation....
....some decry atavism... but there is something sublime of sublimation at temperatures we experience with the change of season.
Life would not be so interesting without the wonderful properties of H2O...
in deference to Tami's characterization, perhaps the ice climber thinks:
"if m= 80kg * 10 m/s^2 = 800 Newtons,
and P = 800 N * 1 cm^2 = 8,000 kPascals,
then where are we on the melt curve?"
ice climbers live on the line from B to C...
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Todd Eastman
climber
Bellingham, WA
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Jan 16, 2011 - 02:15pm PT
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Doesn't rock have similar characteristics... over a longer time frame?
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Jan 16, 2011 - 02:17pm PT
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rock doesn't float in its solid state... H2O does... (because of the slope of the line from "B to C")
how cool is that!
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YosemiteSteve
Trad climber
CA
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Jan 16, 2011 - 04:06pm PT
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Frazil ice doesn't really float, it has more of a neutral density. That's why it behaves more like lava than ice.
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j-tree
Big Wall climber
bay area, ca
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Mar 25, 2011 - 12:58pm PT
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Bump for anyone thinking of going up to check this out now?
A webcam from today of ahwahnee, I'd imagine this bodes well for the tears as well.
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Maysho
climber
Soda Springs, CA
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Mar 25, 2011 - 01:05pm PT
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Not really, plastered with snow does not make great ice conditions. What forms the Tears and others is about 4 feet on the rim, then clear days with sun melt, and cold nights. It has been done in March, but many more ascents in December when we get a cold snap with nightime temps in the teens.
There is plenty of snowpack, but doubtful that we will get nighttime temps cold enough.
Peter
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j-tree
Big Wall climber
bay area, ca
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Mar 25, 2011 - 01:28pm PT
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Accuweather app shows clear 60ish days and 32ish nights all next week after the weekend's snow.
maybe?
what is cold enough?
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Maysho
climber
Soda Springs, CA
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Mar 25, 2011 - 01:30pm PT
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Low 20's, when the ice really goes off, we have nights in the low teens.
Peter
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j-tree
Big Wall climber
bay area, ca
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Mar 25, 2011 - 02:23pm PT
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sad face. I was hoping to read another tr before the winter finally gave out
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ß Î Ø T Ç H
Boulder climber
bouldering
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Fosburg and Shipley did the first ascent of Illilouette Fall, and the right (I think it's the right) side of Nevada Fall, also.. Kevin and Walt also did the first and only full ascent of the 2000 ft Sentinel Falls. I seem to remember Fosburg posting a fairly detailed account of Illilouette, but I can't find it now.
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hossjulia
Trad climber
Where the Hoback and the mighty Snake River meet
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Saw something on FB that Jason Torlano & partner just did Windows tears. Was that an old post come to surface or did it just get done? (Hardish to tell on FB......)
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10b4me
Boulder climber
Somewhere on 395
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Julia, it just got done on Jan 1st
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Jan 10, 2013 - 05:31pm PT
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Needs an alpine start. Will be at least 5 parties on it tomorrow and 7 on Saturday!
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Tork
climber
Yosemite
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Jan 10, 2013 - 05:31pm PT
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Who did he talk into it Dean? Or should I not answer my phone?
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tom Carter
Social climber
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Jan 10, 2013 - 06:11pm PT
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Could be, but when I talked with Flanders a couple of days ago and he was headed to Colorado.
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Jan 11, 2013 - 12:42pm PT
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Needs an alpine start. Will be at least 5 parties on it tomorrow and 7 on Saturday!
Could this be true?!
No way in hell would I want to be under 3-4 other parties on that thing....
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