Ice-Climbing In The Alps Historical Survey Mountain #27 1973

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Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Original Post - Dec 31, 2010 - 11:37pm PT
For a superb overview of the history of ice and mixed climbing in the Alps you need look no further than Mountain #27 May 1973. My thoughts are on ice...

On Les Droites. Heli Wagner photo.
















Much more to follow from this superb edition of Mountain!

Happy New Year and Ice, Fat As You Like!
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 1, 2011 - 02:53pm PT
Eis Bump!
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 8, 2011 - 06:37pm PT
Third bump's the charm!
go-B

climber
Revelation 7:12
Jan 8, 2011 - 09:01pm PT
Thx SG,
Ice is Nice, and the Alp's will suffice!
pocoloco1

Social climber
The Chihuahua Desert
Jan 8, 2011 - 09:03pm PT
Steve, you always post up great stuff. Thanks
Reilly

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
Jan 8, 2011 - 09:10pm PT
Man, that Armand Charlet came straight from central casting n'est-ce pas?
I remember getting waay stoked by that article. Went out and bought me un beret.





Or was that a balaklava?
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 8, 2011 - 11:00pm PT
A Charlet piece from Mountain 50. Tres jaunte!


F10

Trad climber
e350 / Bishop
Jan 8, 2011 - 11:05pm PT
Great post,

The cover photo on Mountain 27 was always on of my favorites, looked super cool and made a lasting impression

Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 9, 2011 - 09:31pm PT
And now the eye candy! A stunning pictorial of the cradle of Gran Alpinisme!














Now this is an inspiring magazine! Still more to come!
east side underground

Trad climber
Hilton crk,ca
Jan 9, 2011 - 09:56pm PT
wonder how many of those routes now have seen decents?!!I bet quite a few! Cheers murry!
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 10, 2011 - 12:02am PT
This was definitely the stuff of dreams growing up in my little desert town!

You look at the whole array of possibilities and guys like Willo Welzenbach really shine with respect to their eye for a classical line and ability to get it done very early on.
Scott Thelen

Trad climber
Truckee, Ca
Jan 11, 2011 - 12:39pm PT
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 12, 2011 - 12:48pm PT
Nice Ice, Boss!

How was that one?
RDB

Social climber
wa
Jan 12, 2011 - 01:00pm PT

Still one of the greatest pieces of alpine terrain in the world and much admired as worthy goals today.

Ueli Steck Speed Soloing the Ginat on the Droites from Jonathan Griffith on Vimeo.

http://vimeo.com/10676290

http://www.alpineexposures.com/pages/ginat-les-droites-trip-report


Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 12, 2011 - 01:09pm PT
The spur that keeps on spurring! LOL
Scott Thelen

Trad climber
Truckee, Ca
Jan 12, 2011 - 08:44pm PT
Hey Steve,

The Monch was so cool. We climbed it in Mid September and were the only ones at the Gugi hut and on route.The Ice boss was great three low angle ice pitchs and two steeper pitchs then a 1800' 40 degree ice slope above.The most dangerous part was Helga at the hut on the back side.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 12, 2011 - 08:59pm PT
Thanks Scott!

Nice spot for a hut!
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 15, 2011 - 03:01pm PT
So just what did Hellga try to do to you gents?!?
Reilly

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
Jan 15, 2011 - 03:05pm PT
With a name like Helga you need to ask? Guess you haven't seen much Wagner.

So, Stevie, when ya gonna do an homage to Kurt Diemburger? These shots bring him to mind.
Dood gave the best slide show I've ever seen. The photography was superb
and the poetry dripped from his lips. Obviously, I'm not of his ilk.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 15, 2011 - 03:10pm PT
The opera is in the details! LOL
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