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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Original Post - Dec 18, 2010 - 12:12am PT
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I just got a bunch of Canadian Alpine Journals and this account jumped out of the 1956 edition. Definitely Don's best effort and a Fifty Classic to boot! Mike Sherrick went on to do the NW Face of Half Dome in 57.
1956 was a big year for the Canadian Alpine Club!
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Doug Robinson
Trad climber
Santa Cruz
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Dec 18, 2010 - 12:38am PT
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These guys were the real deal:
...the exposure was intense. I... began toiling up the sixty-five degree ice couloir...often sneaking on a few feet further using the front crampon prongs. It was a delightful feeling to drive a long spiral piton into the slope...
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Dec 18, 2010 - 12:46am PT
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Very nice - thanks for scanning and posting that.
It sounds very long and committing, like I thought.
A couple of my friends disappeared on the route in 1984.
They probably kept going up, as descending sounds very tough.
Maybe they got stopped by one of the hard sections up high.
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guido
Trad climber
Santa Cruz/New Zealand/South Pacific
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Dec 18, 2010 - 12:57am PT
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Nice find Steve-that is a Classic.
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sac
Trad climber
Sun Coast B.C.
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Dec 18, 2010 - 01:00am PT
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AWESOME!
Gracias.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 18, 2010 - 01:09am PT
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Don is a friend of Wayno's so I hope that he will join in! Lots of adventures in the Great Northwest!
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Wayno
Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
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Dec 18, 2010 - 03:07am PT
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Once again Steve pulls a gem out the archives. I met Don a little over a year ago and it didn't have anything to do with climbing. When I asked him if he was the Don "Claunch" Gordon that did the Wishbone Arete and that I was a climber myself, he lit up and we had some great talks. He credits Sherrick with the success, as he see himself as a mediocre rock climber. Sherrick did the hard rock pitches and Don did the sketchy ice work. Don is a very cool guy. Someone that is a better writer than I am needs to interview this guy.
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Captain...or Skully
Big Wall climber
leading the away team, but not in a red shirt!
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Dec 18, 2010 - 09:57am PT
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No doubt. Awesome stuff.
Those old Dads were tough as nails, & managed to pull off some amazing things.
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Roxy
Trad climber
CA Central Coast
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Dec 18, 2010 - 11:39am PT
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Thanks for sharing that one.
the perfect rainy day stoke!
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Captain...or Skully
Big Wall climber
leading the away team, but not in a red shirt!
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Dec 18, 2010 - 02:01pm PT
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I agree with thee,
wholeheartedly!
Love your History threads, Steve(E? hmm, better not, huh?)
;-)
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Dec 18, 2010 - 02:14pm PT
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Thanks,Steve, that's the real deal! Not to denigrate a fine accomplishment
but I just wonder when that woulda been done in the Alps. Probably not that
much earlier I'm thinking - maybe 1950?
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 18, 2010 - 02:43pm PT
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That 1913 party getting stopped 400' short of the summit is pretty damn impressive too! Very gracious that Don gives them the historical nod.
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Dec 18, 2010 - 03:00pm PT
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And even more impressive woulda been the retreat methinks!
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Wayno
Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
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Dec 18, 2010 - 03:06pm PT
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Don said he wrote a piece for Alpinist 29 about that climb. I haven't read it yet, maybe I can borrow the issue from Steve or Ghost. He said they paid him more than he expected. I should call him and see if he would like to meet some local climbers that appreciate his forays. Anyone game?
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 18, 2010 - 03:12pm PT
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Sideways sometimes works wonders...I wonder what ascent that would have been had they summited?
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Peter Haan
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Dec 18, 2010 - 03:16pm PT
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Badass job of scanning, Stevie. Perfect, thanks!
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Fritz
Trad climber
Choss Creek, ID
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Dec 18, 2010 - 04:04pm PT
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Thanks Steve: Great scans and a great story. Those lads were bold!
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 19, 2010 - 01:28pm PT
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Fifty Classic Bump!
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 27, 2010 - 07:40pm PT
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Bump for Gargoyles!
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 2, 2011 - 03:04pm PT
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The write-up from Roper and Steck's Fifty Classic Climbs.
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