The Edge of Absurdity - TR 2010-12-12

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Messages 21 - 40 of total 48 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Dirka

Trad climber
SF
Dec 16, 2010 - 09:58am PT
Bump! Nice send. Glad to see able gable still at it.
Mighty Hiker

climber
Vancouver, B.C.
Dec 16, 2010 - 12:14pm PT
Looks like a good climb for the 2011 FaceLift. Bound to be some junk somewhere around that tunnel that needs to be cleaned up.
Zander

Trad climber
Berkeley
Dec 16, 2010 - 12:17pm PT
Nice!
Thanks Ed,
Z
fattrad

Mountain climber
GOP Convention
Dec 16, 2010 - 12:32pm PT
Ed,

Thank you for the nice TR.



The evil one
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Dec 16, 2010 - 12:53pm PT
Cool report and very nice overlay, Ed.
The overlay suggests you went lower on p6 than we did on the mass ascent in 2008?
[Edit: the overlay shows the same way I went; I just had trouble looking for the dead tree on the overlay - thanks for explaining, Ed!]
We went up by the dead tree, which involved a hard/reachy move up some rock with black lichen - I was concerned that might be wet/undoable on Sunday.

Older thread with additional discussion and photos of the climb and nearby stuff:
http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/564266/Edge-Of-Absurdity-new-7-pitch-5-8-Above-The-Cookie

46 photos from the 4/2008 mass ascent:
http://www.stanford.edu/%7Eclint/rep/08426.htm
(looks like we got a lot more sunlight than you did in December; no surprise, I guess)
JEleazarian

Trad climber
Fresno CA
Dec 16, 2010 - 12:55pm PT
Looks like a good climb for the 2011 FaceLift. Bound to be some junk somewhere around that tunnel that needs to be cleaned up.

Can I get in on that one? Please??

John
Daphne

Trad climber
Mill Valley, CA
Dec 16, 2010 - 01:09pm PT
Nice! Thanks for the tr-- looks like fun!
Brokedownclimber

Trad climber
Douglas, WY
Dec 16, 2010 - 03:05pm PT
Very nice TR, Ed!

This is what real threads should contain: climbing, rather than character assasinations. Again, good job.

Rodger
Barbarian

Trad climber
The great white north, eh?
Dec 16, 2010 - 03:33pm PT
Nice TR Ed!
Abel Gable sent me the topo a couple summers ago, and it looked like fun, so Jimmy Cooke and I decided to go for it. We did the approach as described, found the start, and roped up.
Pitch 1 was cake.
Pitch 2 was Jimmy's. He cruised it, and I thrashed my was up to the belay.
The mantles on pitch 3 reminded me that I live at a keyboard - my 50 year plus sendentary arms didn't have the juice, and I was the reason we could not finish. (Sorry Jimmy!)
I tucked my tail between my legs and suffered through the long slog back to the car.
Glad your results were different!
(BTW, I hope to return and regain my self-respect someday)
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 17, 2010 - 08:45am PT
we went high on Pitch 6, (the "6" on the overlay image above is right next to the tall dead pine tree, hard to see in that lighting) and the whole cliff there was wet, which is why there are so many vegetable friends hanging out there to watch the antics.

looking right, just off the Pitch 5 belay, was not encouraging as is seemed wetter and steeper than going up and right, which is what Linda did...


Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Dec 17, 2010 - 11:23am PT
Thanks for explaining, Ed. I see now the line is the same.
I just got a little confused trying to find the dead tree on the overlay!
Captain...or Skully

Big Wall climber
leading the away team, but not in a red shirt!
Dec 18, 2010 - 10:49am PT
Climbing Bump.
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 18, 2010 - 10:54am PT
although I thought the topo had a warning (it does not), there are Poison Oak bushes that dot the first pitch... I suspect that it is apparent when the bushes have leaves, but this time of year they don't so it is best to brush up on the "stick structure" of PO so that you don't brush up on the bush itself... as I did... not too bad, inside right forearm near the wrist, left arm, inside, near the elbow, between the ring finger and the pinkie of my right hand... I must have been fully in the bush to get those spots and I'm amazed I escaped with the little that I have...

these bushes are the Cerberean hounds that greet you on this particular passage...
Studly

Trad climber
WA
Dec 18, 2010 - 11:35am PT
That looks like a great climb and even greater adventure. We are all jealous up here in the frozen North!
M. Volland

Trad climber
Grand Canyon
Dec 18, 2010 - 12:02pm PT
Poison oak is the Devil! It will touch you when you give in to temptation, and infect you with evil.

Be on the lookout at all times.
socialclimber

Mountain climber
CA
Dec 18, 2010 - 01:23pm PT
Excellent Ed! I am inspired, a friend wants to do arrowhead arete when it stops raining, this might be obscure enough to tempt him!

Charles
Captain...or Skully

Big Wall climber
leading the away team, but not in a red shirt!
Dec 18, 2010 - 02:03pm PT
Apropos?
Ezra Ellis

Trad climber
WA, & NC & Idaho
Dec 18, 2010 - 02:32pm PT
Nice Job Ed thanks for sharing,
Looks full on for the grade!
cragnshag

Social climber
san joser
Dec 18, 2010 - 07:17pm PT
Great winter Valley TR. Looks like you guys hit it between all these storms.

The PO on the first pitch is alive and waiting to give you the touch. I stared it down a few years back and chickened out because of it.

Facelift and tunnel: During the '05 or '06 facelift, jstan and I and some gal that worked for the gov't cleaned up the base area. We found those old chairs that got tossed out of the tunnel, numerous beer and pop cans, some steel pipes, copper wire and ceramic insulators, diamond plate, and other debris tossed out of the tunnel. It seems that most everything that gets tossed out ends up about 40' up and right of the the start of EOA and at the far left margin of the Cookie Sheet. We filled our haulbags with as much as we could carry and stumbled down to the road.

Friends and I have taken at least 100 lbs of garbage (mostly abandoned power line junk)every facelift since. There's still more to go. The lighter junk that is tossed out of the tunnel gets washed down a drainage that heads toward the Below the Sheet area. I have unearthed many old pull tab cans down there.

Fortunately I have not seen too much modern trash up there. Perhaps the tunnel opening is not the party spot that it used to be?




murcy

climber
sanfrancisco
Dec 18, 2010 - 08:32pm PT
Really great TR. Thanks for the pics and the awesome in-head narration.
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