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john bald
climber
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Dec 18, 2016 - 05:33pm PT
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Peater....here's a pic from Eagle Rock
I put up two routes there while in high school, circa 1970/71.
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adenparker
climber
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Dec 18, 2016 - 07:52pm PT
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So would I be able to check that place out? Or is it private? I'm so psyched on it
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adenparker
climber
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Dec 18, 2016 - 08:23pm PT
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Brutal. Probably worth it though 😝. Is it mountain bike-able? Or at least partly?
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adenparker
climber
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Dec 18, 2016 - 09:16pm PT
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Haha, guess I gotta get access to a heli then.
Sent you an email...thanks for all the info dude!
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Peater
Trad climber
Salt Lake City Ut.
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Dec 18, 2016 - 09:58pm PT
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John Bald !!
Eagle Rock: There are places to die for, but other places to die at. Thanks that you are still around.
Please supply directions to anyone that you don't like and want's to go there.
:)
P
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adenparker
climber
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Dec 19, 2016 - 11:48pm PT
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Ah thanks. Sent it again.
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adenparker
climber
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Jan 16, 2017 - 11:05am PT
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Some more of the "good stuff"! Photo credits to Jed on the last 3.
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Peater
Trad climber
Salt Lake City Ut.
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Jan 16, 2017 - 07:00pm PT
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Local bouldering, most holds are off.
On the way up
Topping out
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Contractor
Boulder climber
CA
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Jan 16, 2017 - 10:09pm PT
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Juggy!
Ok, if cultured stone is on, let's talk Ventura Vagabond with Surfer's point just across the 101 and Spencer Mackenzie's fish tacos next door.
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Peater
Trad climber
Salt Lake City Ut.
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Jan 16, 2017 - 10:47pm PT
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Contractor! Is that place still there. Used to live almost across the street.
The old Gramicci building on La Palma Drive, near the old Patagonia warehouse had some world class buildering.
Not kidding. Wish I had photos but you couldn't imagine a building more made for buildering. And that sold Fire's too. If you could make it to the top a tree decent was the only way down.
I think J.Woodward actually put together a "guide book" to the "area".
Several craters were made but no one was ever seriously hurt.
I couldn't propose any ratings for the place but everything was very hard and probably R/X due to some of the landings.
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Contractor
Boulder climber
CA
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Jan 17, 2017 - 06:33am PT
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Peater- That's a great story, any climbing near surf is special.
The Vagabond- still there, I'd feel safer surfing the Tijuana river mouth than going in that Jacuzzi, but the foot bridge to Surfer's Point, Oxnard A frames and Mackenzie's fish tacos- golden.
I did some bouldering up at the Hideout (I think that's the name) on my last trip- meh...
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Contractor
Boulder climber
CA
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Jan 17, 2017 - 09:13am PT
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Warbler-
I finally got out there and loved it. It's unique in many ways but mostly the proximity of the top anchors to the lip. I imagine there's quite a few routes safely accessible from the top?!
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Friend
climber
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Jan 17, 2017 - 09:40am PT
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I'd feel safer surfing the Tijuana river mouth than going in that Jacuzzi
That's classic Contractor!
In Aden's last photo you can see, front and center, what struck me as the prettiest line in the place. Took a couple tries to figure out the last move but once I did I climbed it again and again. I was stoked to be told it was an FA. Right place, right time.
Eighth Birthday 5.11+
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Contractor
Boulder climber
CA
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Jan 17, 2017 - 10:23am PT
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Yes Eagle. As soon as I saw the set up, the implications were obvious. I already picked up a 300 foot static, my new partner!
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john bald
climber
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Jan 17, 2017 - 12:10pm PT
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For Peater............your old boss in action!
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Peater
Trad climber
Salt Lake City Ut.
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Jan 17, 2017 - 10:23pm PT
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John Bald thank you! and Contractor check it out.
Seriously it may not be R/X but just may be R. Johns photo is of the safe side. On the other it's 30' of vertical that could not be engineered in any gym climb that I've ever seen. You can see the tree decent to the right.
The routes are all vertical, and it just depended on how many holds there were on any particular problem or how big they were
I don't know if copies J Woodward's guide book exist but they showed people being carted off on gurneys. It was hilarious.
Warbler, you've been there I think.
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