What is the ultimate slab route?

Search
Go

Discussion Topic

Return to Forum List
Post a Reply
Messages 21 - 40 of total 81 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Tony Bird

climber
Northridge, CA
Dec 2, 2010 - 08:13am PT
yea, weeping wall--sweet tastes of old slab.

has hensel's Someone You're Not ever been repeated?
mongrel

Trad climber
Truckee, CA
Dec 2, 2010 - 09:03am PT
Lots of great candidates here! and oooooh yeah Ron is right about the incredibly high quality of those routes on Lo-cal (Hammer) Dome; for that matter, LOTS of the slab routes in the Cal Dome area are incredibly good. We went over to Set the Controls or the other one next to it, 20-25 years ago, these routes weren't in some bootleg topos I'd somehow gotten a copy of (probably originated with Smith or Crawford or somebody - or maybe Ron!), so we had no idea of where routes went, rating, or anything. Figured we'd just follow the bolts and climb. First pitch of some kind of 10 went fine, but the next one, it was about two zip codes from each set of two little bitty black bumps where the leader had drilled, to the next. And what fantastic climbing in between! Seemed you could hardly clip even if there were more bolts. Two, three of these runouts went great, but at the end of the last one before it was obvious the difficulty was about to ease off a lot, I just couldn't keep enough focus to accomplish the thumbtip/toe mantle to stand up and clip, and ....aiiieeeeeeee! the big butt-slide. Wanted to get back on it all these years, and do all the others too. Great place.
Ihateplastic

Trad climber
It ain't El Cap, Oregon
Dec 2, 2010 - 09:10am PT
Munge... While it is true that there are MANY fine slab routes out there I must pick up on something in the OP... Grack Marginal. I believe I have done that route 20+ times. I loved that route. It was my first (of not many) free-solos and it took on a whole new dimension when it was just me, some EBs and a bag of courage. A fine Walk in the Park
harihari

Trad climber
Squampton
Dec 2, 2010 - 09:48am PT
in Squamish, two are mega-classics, both testaments to what happens when you drill on lead:

White Lightning (10c)...loads of folks try this and weep. Solid runouts, scary cruxes. But it's all there...if you are.

Dancing in the Light (11b). Bolts where you need them. Bring your head.
ydpl8s

Trad climber
Santa Monica, California
Dec 2, 2010 - 09:49am PT
O-man, is that on Big Rock Candy Mtn? Childhood's End or Field of Dreams would certainly be candidates.
Paul Martzen

Trad climber
Fresno
Dec 2, 2010 - 09:56am PT
I hate to think of any route being the "ultimate". If there was one, why bother with others. I can think of many slabs that stand out in my memory, but here are two that I thought especially interesting.

There is a slab, maybe 30 degrees in steepness in the NF Kings canyon, next to a water slide. In order to repeat the water slide you have to walk up the slab out of a pool of water. Super delicate. Fun to struggle so much on such low angle, then feel your feet cut loose and go shooting back into the pool.

Nearby on Patterson Bluffs right there is a section near the top of the bluff with large (body sized) scallops. The scallops provide friction climbing on a pretty steep wall. I don't recall any edges, so we had to use pure friction to mantel from one divot to the other. Totally weird.
ontheedgeandscaredtodeath

Trad climber
San Francisco, Ca
Dec 2, 2010 - 10:20am PT
Warpaint, Cochise Stronghold.
mike m

Trad climber
black hills
Dec 2, 2010 - 10:22am PT
Aren't there some good ones out east on some of those "ledges".
Ksolem

Trad climber
Monrovia, California
Dec 2, 2010 - 10:30am PT
A few of my favorites, by area:

Yosemite, Crest Jewel
TM, Miss Adventure
Courtright, Esto Power
T&S, Magical Mystery Tour
Dome Rock, About Face

But I think the most memorable slab I've done is The Prow of The Cobra, Kings Canyon, Gorge of Despair. This route has it all. It's sufficiently long, achieves a real summit, is remote in a truly spectacular setting, and is at the moderate grade of 5.9 but it is continuous and sparsely protected being devoid of bolts (FA 1979 Gary Valle and Phil Warrender.)

This is the start:
Kris Solem starting up The Prow of Cobra, Gorge of Despair, Kings Cany...
Kris Solem starting up The Prow of Cobra, Gorge of Despair, Kings Canyon CA, 1994...
Photo by Guy Keesee.
Credit: Guy Keesee

Here's the slab and summit ridge, Blue Canyon behind:
The Gorge of Despair: Frustration Turret, El Corporale and El Commanda...
The Gorge of Despair: Frustration Turret, El Corporale and El Commandante Turrets, The Cobra and Crystal Turrets viewed from the summit of The Silver Turret.
Credit: Guy Keesee

The Descent, Tehipite Dome behind:

Kris Solem rapping off The Cobra. Corporale and Commandante Turretsand...
Kris Solem rapping off The Cobra. Corporale and Commandante Turretsand Tehipite Dome in view.
Credit: Guy Keesee

Mungeclimber

Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 2, 2010 - 10:53am PT
oh nice, some killer stoke going on this thread.


good stuff Simon.



Scott, yeah, wet slabs are a whole nutter animal.
The Warbler

climber
the edge of America
Dec 2, 2010 - 11:53am PT
Line - check

Rock quality - check

Setting - check

Spice - check

Consistency - check

Variety of holds and moves - check



Rarely done - check


Black Primo
Mighty Hiker

climber
Vancouver, B.C.
Dec 2, 2010 - 12:03pm PT
Kris, can you do something about those red tights, please? Photoshop should help.
Wack

climber
Dazevue
Dec 2, 2010 - 12:22pm PT
Since the Grack was listed I'll put in for Cat Dancing on MCR.
bhilden

Trad climber
Mountain View, CA
Dec 2, 2010 - 12:36pm PT
Tightrope on GPA is a five star classic. Anyone else done it?

For a single pitch, I really liked "Daddy's Little Girl" on Stately Pleasure Dome.

Bruce
mongrel

Trad climber
Truckee, CA
Dec 2, 2010 - 12:58pm PT
Warbler, I can't remember from all the rebolting threads, can you also say "new fattie bolts" - check for Black Primo? (Can't pass up another opportunity to say THANKS to Roger Brown, Clint Cummins, and all the other many people who've worked to resurrect the huge list of all-time classic face routes on MCR and elsewhere.)

Also, while I'm partial to local areas, here's a tip of the hat to a superb one-pitch slab route at City of Rocks: Science Friction. Superb route, great pro, but alas, not done enough to scuff off all the patina of DG particles, which accumulate on your rope tarp like snow. Next time I'll bring a push broom and sweep each section from bolt to bolt before climbing it.
Ihateplastic

Trad climber
It ain't El Cap, Oregon
Dec 2, 2010 - 01:16pm PT
I seem to remember being quite pleased with Hoppy's Favorite on the Apron. 10C I believe.
Pass the Chongo, Chongo

Social climber
in cave
Dec 2, 2010 - 01:20pm PT
I like SLAB!

CHONgo!
dan-man

Trad climber
Mountain View, CA
Dec 2, 2010 - 03:06pm PT
Solid Gold, Joshua Tree

Mighty Hiker

climber
Vancouver, B.C.
Dec 2, 2010 - 03:10pm PT
http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/219262/Difficulty-of-Slab-Climbs

Includes discussion of what a slab climb is - essentially, something where friction is the main means of ascent. Usually between 30 and 70 degrees in angle. Many routes referred to above are face climbs, not slab climbs. Solid Gold, for example.
Cam Burns

Social climber
CO
Dec 2, 2010 - 03:17pm PT
Sweet Jesus, Tuolumne.
Messages 21 - 40 of total 81 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Return to Forum List
Post a Reply
 
Our Guidebooks
Check 'em out!
SuperTopo Guidebooks


Try a free sample topo!

 
SuperTopo on the Web

Review Categories
Recent Trip Report and Articles
Recent Route Beta
Recent Gear Reviews