Bolts chopped on Cerro Torre


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Gregory Crouch

Social climber
Goleta, California
Nov 16, 2010 - 03:22pm PT
Good effort, Rolo. I still can't quite get my head wrapped around all the reported additions. I can't think of any "why" that makes sense, as in the places you describe it seems to me far less effort just to do the climbing without whacking in some 30-40 bolts, even if one were burdened with camera(s). (If memory serves correctly.) All that stuff was free, or free-ish, climbing anyway, right?

I'm sure you did the best possible job getting rid of all that Red Bull garbage.

It's all so bizarre. There must be some hidden magnetic core to that peak that makes us all go bat-shit crazy when we're on it.

Big Wall climber
Nor Nev
Nov 16, 2010 - 03:37pm PT

Good news and that is my wife is well connected at Red Bull and having been an agent for many action sport athletes here in the US knows that Red Bull would like to hear that this type of thing is going on. Its not good PR and bad for their image. I suspect things can happen to make this right. Please Please get all your information together and straight I suspect you will be getting a call or an email from Red Bull.

Stick a foot in this guys ass and put an end to this destruction.

Big Wall climber
Nov 16, 2010 - 03:40pm PT
Thanks Rolo Garibotti.

This has made the Alpinist page.

I am on the Boycott of Red Bull and Lama.


Big Wall climber
Nor Nev
Nov 16, 2010 - 03:43pm PT
Now wait here why would you boycott them until they know whats going on. I would say that you boycott them if they choose to do nothing but I suspect you will see them put an end to this. If not the boycott is on and I will be the first to pour the many cases in my garage out and into the gutter. Or I will take them to the park and give to the homeless.
Ain't no flatlander

Nov 16, 2010 - 03:45pm PT
Great job Rolo! I'll by you a cold fizzy drink when you get back to Boulder...and it sure as hell won't be Red Bull.

Trad climber
100% Canadian
Nov 16, 2010 - 04:49pm PT
Let's hope Lama is denied a Canadian visa should he ever apply for one.

Social climber
Nov 16, 2010 - 05:29pm PT
Ghastly business when climbers call themselves that and then cheat or lie to make their commitments.

I've always wondered the selection process whereby climbers receive sponsorship in the first place. Is it the squeaky wheel gets the grease? Spray long and hard enough and your bullshit gets believed?

Or is there some kind of peer review providing opportunity for nepotism, yeah, but also a way that cheaters are not quite able to stand up to the flashlight shining on their little roach selves.

OR did Lama & Putz bite off more then they could chew, freak out and make a mess and tried to cover their tracks? It would be interesting to see Lama post to this thread. I imagine great umbrage & outrage at us commenting on these actions based upon Rolo's observations alone.

And it's interesting what Silver has done; contacted the RB folks himself. Do they not keep tabs on their athletes through independant sources?

If not, oooooh, big mistake.


Social climber
Nov 16, 2010 - 05:43pm PT
With a team named Lama & Putz, we MUST HAVE a Tami cartoon ASAP.

Social climber
Nov 16, 2010 - 05:45pm PT
.....only if sponsored by RED BULL!!!!!


Big Wall climber
Nor Nev
Nov 16, 2010 - 05:50pm PT

They do keep track to a degree but I will tell you this that they are HUGE and the money is HUGE and the sponsorships are HUGE.

Imagine one man owns this company and one man only. I am suprised he is not listed as one of the worlds richest men. He may be for all I know but having attened many a Red Bull event and party the amounts spent are HUGE and that can be somewhat hard to track.

I do know that if you run one of their events and things go wrong heads roll. As per the incident in Boston where the underage drinker killed a motorcycle cop after he had been served at an RB event. Heads Rolled there and they can roll here if we just get this info to the right person. The one thing that may keep this from happening is that we are talking Austrian climber and Austrian owned company.

I really do see this as having serious momentum when an entire climbing community puts the foot down and says enough is enough. Give me some time the wife is working on it and we will get this info to the right people. From there it is up to RB to do the right thing.

If not looks like I'm giving the homeless a lot of RB

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Nov 16, 2010 - 06:08pm PT
No worries about drinking Red Bull- the stuff sucks. Can the Park Superintendent intervene with the next attempt? After all, they left tons of gear behind the first time contrary to their agreement.

I have opened a number of routes in the area and have placed a TOTAL of 4 or 5 hand drilled bolts- all on Torre Egger in 1976. I have not even taken bolts with me since Torre Egger, the rock in the area lends itself to non invasive protection.

Thanks Rolo for your report and your efforts in cleaning up the debacle!!!

Social climber
Nov 16, 2010 - 06:26pm PT
From and David's blog about the trip :

Itís true that there are cracks and rock structures in which natural gear could have been placed for fixing the ropes. Itís also a fact that the camera guys could have jumared up on these natural placements. But all of this is fairly easy to say if you are not the person in charge of the lives of the people hauling themselves up on these placements after a huge stormÖ I certainly donít want to carry this responsibility, and in that respect I understand our lead guides decision in placing a limited number of bolts.

.....which begs the question if you can't stand the heat don't get into the fire.

Bad decision to even go there in the first place.

Bad Lama.


Trad climber
the pitch above you
Nov 16, 2010 - 06:38pm PT
have not even taken bolts with me since Torre Egger, the rock in the area lends itself to non evasive protection.

I can't help myself, sorry. I'm guessing routes with evasive protection are pretty challenging. I hate it when I size 'er up and reach for the #3, only to find that the crack has foreseen my move and quickly grown to #4.

Dickhead poking at donini for grammar aside, hats off to rolo and let's hope the powers that be at Redbull take note of the response on this page and do the right thing. No new trip for retrobolting route trashers.

Peter Haan

Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
Nov 16, 2010 - 06:42pm PT
Lama's Red Bull blog page:

There is plenty of negative commenting going on there by the way. Thanks Weld_it for the link for their feedback/contact!

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Nov 16, 2010 - 06:43pm PT
Ooops....wanted to say invasive, going back to edit the sentence. Editing ST posts could prove to be a tough job.

Trad climber
Springdale UT
Nov 16, 2010 - 06:48pm PT
This may be a dumb question but why did he bring guides with him? If he is a professional, shouldnt he just have a partner or something and learn his own way around the park--or do most sponsored climbers take guides with them?

Nov 16, 2010 - 07:29pm PT
of course a sport climber needs a guide in a trad area...

Boulder climber
I'm James Brown, Bi-atch!
Nov 16, 2010 - 07:37pm PT
where can i find fresh chopage?

no recycle, just for kicks,

i think ted and hanoi jane are the choppers,


Trad climber
NJ-Summer LCC Winter
Nov 16, 2010 - 09:54pm PT
left an entire highway of bolts and pitons in the mountainís south-east face, which has nothing to do with todayís climbing ethics

from his red bull blog...

i hope they dump his ass

Trad climber
Sydney, Australia
Nov 16, 2010 - 10:54pm PT
Good effort to do this but why no photos? Esp. in this age of cheap digital cameras.
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