Bolts chopped on Cerro Torre

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Messages 21 - 40 of total 152 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Acer

Big Wall climber
AZ
Nov 16, 2010 - 03:40pm PT
Thanks Rolo Garibotti.

This has made the Alpinist page.

I am on the Boycott of Red Bull and Lama.

Ain't no flatlander

climber
Nov 16, 2010 - 03:45pm PT
Great job Rolo! I'll by you a cold fizzy drink when you get back to Boulder...and it sure as hell won't be Red Bull.
bmacd

Trad climber
100% Canadian
Nov 16, 2010 - 04:49pm PT
Let's hope Lama is denied a Canadian visa should he ever apply for one.
Gene

Social climber
Nov 16, 2010 - 05:43pm PT
With a team named Lama & Putz, we MUST HAVE a Tami cartoon ASAP.
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Nov 16, 2010 - 06:08pm PT
No worries about drinking Red Bull- the stuff sucks. Can the Park Superintendent intervene with the next attempt? After all, they left tons of gear behind the first time contrary to their agreement.

I have opened a number of routes in the area and have placed a TOTAL of 4 or 5 hand drilled bolts- all on Torre Egger in 1976. I have not even taken bolts with me since Torre Egger, the rock in the area lends itself to non invasive protection.

Thanks Rolo for your report and your efforts in cleaning up the debacle!!!
Rock!...oopsie.

Trad climber
the pitch above you
Nov 16, 2010 - 06:38pm PT
donini-
have not even taken bolts with me since Torre Egger, the rock in the area lends itself to non evasive protection.

I can't help myself, sorry. I'm guessing routes with evasive protection are pretty challenging. I hate it when I size 'er up and reach for the #3, only to find that the crack has foreseen my move and quickly grown to #4.

Dickhead poking at donini for grammar aside, hats off to rolo and let's hope the powers that be at Redbull take note of the response on this page and do the right thing. No new trip for retrobolting route trashers.

-Bob
Peter Haan

Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
Nov 16, 2010 - 06:42pm PT
Lama's Red Bull blog page:

http://www.redbull.com/cs/Satellite/en_INT/Profile/David-Lama-021242754976758

There is plenty of negative commenting going on there by the way. Thanks Weld_it for the link for their feedback/contact!
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Nov 16, 2010 - 06:43pm PT
Ooops....wanted to say invasive, going back to edit the sentence. Editing ST posts could prove to be a tough job.
Porkchop_express

Trad climber
Springdale UT
Nov 16, 2010 - 06:48pm PT
This may be a dumb question but why did he bring guides with him? If he is a professional, shouldnt he just have a partner or something and learn his own way around the park--or do most sponsored climbers take guides with them?
Cor

climber
Nov 16, 2010 - 07:29pm PT
of course a sport climber needs a guide in a trad area...
Dr.Sprock

Boulder climber
I'm James Brown, Bi-atch!
Nov 16, 2010 - 07:37pm PT
where can i find fresh chopage?

no recycle, just for kicks,

i think ted and hanoi jane are the choppers,



RobA

Trad climber
NJ-Summer LCC Winter
Nov 16, 2010 - 09:54pm PT
left an entire highway of bolts and pitons in the mountainís south-east face, which has nothing to do with todayís climbing ethics


from his red bull blog...

i hope they dump his ass
maxdacat

Trad climber
Sydney, Australia
Nov 16, 2010 - 10:54pm PT
Good effort to do this but why no photos? Esp. in this age of cheap digital cameras.
MisterE

Social climber
Bouncy Tiggerville
Nov 16, 2010 - 10:56pm PT
Just another "Thank You" to Rolo - way to get after the Red Bullsh1t.
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Nov 17, 2010 - 12:05am PT
Rolo,

Good work on the cleanup and expose'.

Lama and Putz sound way too much like "Maestri II"!
 Misinformation and trigger happy with the bolt gun.

Ban power drills in the park.
mike m

Trad climber
black hills
Nov 17, 2010 - 12:12am PT
and the cell phones and computers, but not the digital cameras.
Cpt0bvi0u5

Trad climber
Merced CA
Nov 17, 2010 - 12:42am PT
of course a sport climber needs a guide in a trad area...
haha that legitimately made me laugh
jonny red

Trad climber
golden b.c.
Nov 17, 2010 - 01:21am PT
Nice work Rolo. I wish I was there to help...
Mighty Hiker

climber
Vancouver, B.C.
Nov 17, 2010 - 02:39am PT
Why is Cerro Torre so special? Commercial pressures and climbing have caused similar environmental impacts, both real and symbolic, to many other mountains and cliffs. Many, around the world. Less commonly in remote areas, but it happens in wildernesses too. And getting to and from wilderness peaks often has higher impacts, however well-behaved one is on the spot.

Certainly Cerro Torre has great symbolic value. But what about our cumulative impacts everywhere else? Is any of us innocent?

It's great fun to mock Lama, Doofus, Rad Bull et al for what they did. IMHO it was boneheaded, although economics always tend to be paramount for commercial climbers. But does this really help advance the purpose of having all climbers reduce or eliminate their impacts on the environment, both at home and in the mountains?
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Nov 17, 2010 - 06:16am PT
Cerro Torre is a "sore spot" because of Maestri's bolt ladder, the abandoned compressor, and his prior/continuing lies about having completed the FA with Toni Egger (debunked by Rolo in the AAJ).

The bolt ladder does provide a way to descend from the top, but the concept of motorized bolting up a blank wall on a big alpine peak is disturbing to many. It is one of those "fence" issues like the rap bolting of Growing Up, which can be justified, but many are uncomfortable with it.
Messages 21 - 40 of total 152 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
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