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philo
Trad climber
Somewhere halfway over the rainbow
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Nov 25, 2010 - 02:33am PT
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Because man, once you go Pole you never go droll.
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Peter Haan
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Nov 30, 2010 - 09:52am PT
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Right DM. The compressor is actually now as iconic as the Rotten Log was on Royal Arches.
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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Nov 30, 2010 - 09:57am PT
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One wonders how long it can hang up there.
Remember in Cumbre when Marco Pedrini climbs onto it and pretends to rev it up like a motorcycle?
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colin henderson
climber
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Nov 30, 2010 - 05:58pm PT
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> attacking a dead man's route
Are you perhaps thinking of Toni Egger and the NE ridge route on the other side of the mountain? The Compressor bolted route on the SE ridge was instigated by Maestri and as far as I am aware he is still alive?
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Bullwinkle
Boulder climber
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Nov 30, 2010 - 06:04pm PT
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Maestri and Egger never did the North Face, Rolo proved this when he sent it. The Kompresser Route has over 300 Bolts, most next to 5.10 or A1 Cracks it's a junk show. . .
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jschaefer
Sport climber
Munich, Germany
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Well done! Thx!
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shipoopoi
Big Wall climber
oakland
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wow, i was on squeeze play when this thread hit, so a little late here. cerro torre is a beautiful mountain, with a storied history, and it sucks to have bolts put up and then chopped. i cannot fathom that anybody would spray more bolts on the compressor route after all the controversy over the bolts placed there 40 years ago. what were they thinking? ss
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Eagle, Just to clarify which F**ker are you talking about?
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Byrner
Mountain climber
Berkeley, CA
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Thanks, Rolo. Chop the damn bolts!
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pk_davidson
Trad climber
Albuquerque, NM
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"Style does matter especially given the fact that climbing has no intrinsic value to anyone but the climber. "
Well said Jim.
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Mad Dogg
climber
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Thanks for sharing to info on this, Rolo! Good to let the truth be heard.
And, I'm very psyched to hear that you have been up on Cerro Torre, this year already! That has got to be a great place to be, even if you're dealing with trash.
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Kinobi
climber
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Dec 12, 2010 - 03:48am PT
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Ciao,
OT: just a quick question. From the photos I saw handmade hangers and bolts placed too close each other. Do you have more photos?
I mean, we can discuss forever they did a poor thing in placing the bolts, abut also the bolts were "tecnically" placed poorly. Not a great job by a professional.
Ciao,
E
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Port
Trad climber
San Diego
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I like the dude rap bolting the cloud....classic.
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Fritz
Trad climber
Choss Creek, ID
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No bolts bump.
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rolo
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 11, 2011 - 01:26am PT
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Hope you all "survived" the holidays. Ours were quite sad because of the death of a well respected Brazilian climber high up on Fitz Roy.
Went back up on Cerro Torre yesterday, with Colin Haley and Doerte Pietron. We chopped 12 more of the "Red Bull" bolts, these part of the rap line that Heli Putz bolted. As I mentioned before and as Colin can assert, these were all along one of the many alternate rap routes that one can take from the shoulder down, never far away from existing rap stations. We only chopped 12 because it was very warm, too warm, so we bailed 3/4 of the way up to the shoulder afraid for potential rock fall, wet slides, etc. These bolts were not drilled long, so I could not just hammer them in, but luckily they are all zinc plated so with only 10 hammer blows they broke, very cleanly, flush with the rock (all but two unfortunately).
The Lama-RB crew is showing up in a few days, on the 13th I believe. Hopefully they will have gotten the message and they will behave in these mountains the same way they would behave if they were in their own home mountains, with a little more respect.
regards
rolo
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rolo
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 11, 2011 - 01:37am PT
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Regarding "Kinobi's" question, yes, the configuration of the belay and rappel stations was/is more than questionable. Each station involves two bolts that are less than 10 centimeters from each other, linked by one big fat ring. Putting the bolts so close together is technically wrong and also having them both work at the same time, with no redundancy, is also technically wrong. Last, Heli mixed zinc platted bolts with stainless steel hangers, so this was/is also technically wrong because of galvanic corrosion. As Kinobi points out it is weird that a so called professional would make such mistakes.
regards
rolo
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Jan 11, 2011 - 01:47am PT
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Thanks for the report, and work!
Hopefully they will have gotten the message and they will behave in these mountains the same way they would behave if they were in their own home mountains, with a little more respect. How do they behave in their home mountains and cliffs?
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Kinobi
climber
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Jan 11, 2011 - 02:38am PT
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Thanks Rolo for the clarification.
May be they call themselves professionals, but they are not.
A basic knowledge of bolting, would not have led to that kind of equipment, not to that kind of placement.
As far as I see, also the hangers are not EN959, and if they had the intention to remove the gear, they could have used the Multi-Monti system, that beside being stronger than a regular bolt, can be unscrewed leaving just the hole.
http://www.heco.it/it/catalogo/prodotti/heco-multi-monti/
Even in Austria they know that kind of bolts...
Ciao,
E
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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Jan 11, 2011 - 07:14am PT
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Putz indeed!
Thanks Rolo.
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