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Jobee
Social climber
El Portal Ca.
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Well done; no hype, no bull, just fast!
Congratulations to you both.
Jo
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GhoulweJ
Trad climber
Sacramento, CA
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Man, this is fast.
Way to go guys.
I sure hope there is chance for us spectators to get a glimpse of your accomplishment.
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Matt
Trad climber
primordial soup
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that's awesome.
fun to see the various tough guys try different combinations.
personally, i'd like to see hans team up with alexH.
i wonder how may times dean and sean have done the route?
i recall dean and timmyO tried a few times, even going back and forth with hans/yuji, it would be interesting if they really tried to get it down as low as they can.
back when hanz and yuji got the current record, didn't they then stop trying? i guess i am just saying that the goal seems to have always been to hold the record, rather than to have the fastest time possible. what if a team got the record, then tried it several more times?
it's sick to think about how fast these guys could go...
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Nose speed record progression, from Hans' page
http://www.speedclimb.com/yosemite/thenose.htm
1958 - first ascent took 12 days on the final push. (48 days of work over 18 months)(Wayne, George, and Warren)
1960 - second ascent took 7 days,(6 nights)(Joe Fitschen, Tom Frost, Chuck Pratt, and Royal Robbins)
1963 - third ascent took 3.5 days.( Layton Kor, Steve Roper, and Glenn Denny)
1967 - 3 day ascent by party of two..(Jim Madsen and Kim Schmitz)
1968 - 2.5 day ascent.(Jim Madsen and Mike Covington)
[1969] - first solo ascent (Tom Baumann); solo speed record probably dropped several times between this and 1989
1974 - 1.5 day ascent.(Ray Jardine and Chick Holtcamp?)
1975 - the FIRST one day ascent was made, took about 17 hours and 40 minutes.(Billy Westbay, Jim Bridwell, and John Long) Did you know that Peter Metcalf and partner were on the route the day they did it?
1978 - The route was climbed by Mike Lechlinski and John Bachar in 15 hours
1979 - the route was done in under 13 hours.(Thierry ' Turbo' Renault + other)
1984 - Dave Shultz, and John Middendorf did it on the winter solstice in 10:47, Duncan Critchley and Romain Vogler did it in under 10 hours on the summer solstice.
1986 - the route was done in 10:05. (John Bachar and Peter Croft, they then went and climbed the NWRR on Half Dome)
1988 - 9:20? Xavier Bongard and Romain Vogler
1988 - first NIAD Beta/description written by John Middendorf.
1989 - first one day solo ascent was made.( Steve Schneider )
1990 - 8:06 became the record then 6:40,(Steve Schneider and Hans Florine, then Dave Shultz and Peter Croft,- respectively)
1991 - 6:01 became the record then 4:48,(Andres Puhvel and Hans, then Dave and Peter, - respectively)
1992 - 4:22 became the record.,(Peter and Hans)
1993 - 14:11 became the record solo ascent (Hans Florine)
1999 - 12:50 became the record solo ascent (Dean Potter, then he went and climbed Half Dome)
2001 - 3:59:35 became the record, then 3:57:27, then 3:24:20,(Timmy Oneil and Dean Potter, then Jim Herson and Hans, then Timmy and Dean again.)
2002 - 2:48:50 became the record, (Yuji Hirayama and Hans)
2003 - 11:50 became the record solo ascent (Hans Florine)
2007 - 2:48:35 became the record, then 2:45:45, (Alexander and Thomas Huber set and broke their own record)
2008 - 2:43:33 became the record, then 2:37:05, (Yuji and Hans)
2010 - 5:49 became the record solo ascent (Alex Honnold)
2010 - 2:36.45 became the record (Dean Potter and Sean Leary)
It will be interesting to see how many tries they took to get it.
Tom Evans had been hinting they were working on it, and Hans knew, too.
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Buju
Big Wall climber
the range of light
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kinda pathetic that this news seems less interesting to many people than whether or not obama should be called an n*&%$r.
WAY TO GO!
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jack herer
climber
Veneta, Oregon
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Ummm you left out the first solo ascent of the nose in 1969 by Tom Bauman
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go-B
climber
Matthew 25:40
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At this rate it would be cool to see a movie of it from start to finish!
Way to go!
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Peter Haan
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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The Nose start is 498 yards exactly from the road, as the crow flies.
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saa
climber
not much of a
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Odd, it's not on the front page of the San Fran Comical today.
Hee hee hee.
Hats down to the boys. Best wishes on the future runs.
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Mike Bolte
Trad climber
Planet Earth
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I am completely in awe of these folks (all of them). These are absolutely incredible mind-body athletic feats.
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yogiclimber
Social climber
Martinez, CA
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WAY TO GO!!! Congratulations :)
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elcap-pics
Big Wall climber
Crestline CA
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Cool... anyone see it? Verified or unverified? What have the climbers themselves said about it? They are both great climbers, fully capable of doing that time, and I am sorry to have missed it.... always fun to watch the best do their thing!
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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have fun out there...
great time!
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TomCochrane
Trad climber
I've lost track...
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Fantastic accomplishment!
How many people have exceeded my time on it with Claire Mearnz of 9.5 days??
(including a rainy night on Camp 6 with ?? (?)[per Clint] and Walt Shipley as they zoomed by in a little over a day)
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WBraun
climber
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Dean Potter and Walt Shipley as they zoomed by
Are you sure .....?
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TomCochrane
Trad climber
I've lost track...
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Werner, I am sure about Walt Shipley as we had a long conversation. I didn't really talk to his partner and didn't recall his name at the time. I just thought I had it figured out some years later. I just recall he was tall and incredibly skilled.
I think they had started out to do the Wall of Morning Light and apparently got into a disagreement and bailed off over to the Nose; I don't know by what connection. Walt came up to me a couple of pitches below Camp 6 and then we all huddled there when the weather deteriorated. Claire and I shivered under an orange rain fly. Walt had a portaledge and was the only person getting some sleep as the water dribbled down on us. Walt's partner shivered unprotected and then amazed me by disappearing in a flash up the next pitch at the first sign of daylight. I asked Walt about it and he told me, oh that's the standard these days. I replied, that oh, I used to think that I was a rock climber years ago...
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Hmmm, I doubt Walt ever climbed with Dean [edit: but I was wrong - see jghedge post below]. Maybe Walt with John Middendorf or somebody?
And having a portaledge and bailing onto another route is not something you would normally do in a single day. No doubt Walt + partner would be fast on the pitches above Camp 6, though.
What year? 1985 or later? [edit: 1985 matches up with Walt's being in Yosemite, the first year he had a first ascent that went into the guidebook]
In general, when unsure on somebody's name, wise to put a (?) after it?
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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Fantastic job, Dean and Sean......and that fact that it was that close to the old record makes it even more exciting and cool......shows that it was a tough one to beat, but they did it anyways.....Awesome.....if they bet the record by alot...then it was too easy for them...........Next........
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TomCochrane
Trad climber
I've lost track...
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I couldn't tell you. The guy didn't say much of anything. Walt mentioned his name and I didn't catch it. I just saw pictures of Dean years later and thought it looked like the guy; never met either of them elsewhere. Too bad we can't ask Walt. I thought my rigging was very safe and conservative, but it didn't satisfy Walt and he made some firm suggestions.
Edit: With Claire in 1985. I didn't realize she had been to Yosemite before. We met in the Gunks.
Edit: I watched the whole thing from the meadow as Hans and Yuji made one of their record attempts on the Nose. It was very surrealistic watching them sail up things that have been so challenging to me. I never imagined living long enough to see my wildest dreams exceeded to such an extent. I feel greatly privileged; never mind what anyone may think of me or my contributions.
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