sawed-off angles

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Messages 1 - 18 of total 18 in this topic
Peyton Hassinger

Big Wall climber
Raleigh, NC
Topic Author's Original Post - Nov 2, 2010 - 03:28pm PT
I just bought some angles and need to saw them off. The last time I did this I just eye-balled it. I'm wondering where exactly other people have sawed their angles.
thanks,
Peyton
Rhodo-Router

Gym climber
wussing off the topout on Roadside Attraction
Nov 2, 2010 - 03:29pm PT
On a picnic table;)
Shimanilami

Trad climber
San Jose, CA
Nov 2, 2010 - 03:39pm PT
I mix it up. Some are 1/4 sawed off, others are 1/3. I haven't run into a situation where I wanted it shorter than that.
cragnshag

Social climber
san joser
Nov 2, 2010 - 03:42pm PT
shoot me an email. I will sell you all the saw-offs you need. Most were never used. All have nice rounded and filed edges. $9 ea, shipping included.

Mark Hudon

Trad climber
Hood River, OR
Nov 2, 2010 - 04:04pm PT
1/4 to 1/3 off. I had some cut in half and they are pretty much useless.
Rhodo-Router

Gym climber
wussing off the topout on Roadside Attraction
Nov 2, 2010 - 04:08pm PT
Silver, you'd probably be better off simply drilling holes and swaging a wire through there.
Fat Dad

Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
Nov 2, 2010 - 04:13pm PT
Pretty much what everyone else said. A little variety can be handy, so don't make them all uniform. Tucker chopped the last ones I used at the rescue site in Camp 4. You won't find him there now clearly, but you may find someone else who could help you.
marv

Mountain climber
Bay Area
Nov 3, 2010 - 02:18am PT
would a hacksaw -- the only saw I've used in my life -- hack it? I've been putting this off on account of not having a clue
mucci

Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
Nov 3, 2010 - 02:37am PT
A angle grinder works just fine, no worries about the heat treatment, it is after all a sawed off...

Baby-1/2" I like to have really short, about 1/2 the length.

5/8ths- 1" I would go with 1/3-1/4 off as others have said.

A hack saw is cool to, just get a bastard file to form the sharp edges.

Get a few blades, and some sort of clamp or vise.


As to Silver's question, a hole with a swage seems cool. You get all amped up, grab your handy homemade pintip, hammer that mother and fix it all to hell. A2 now FOR SHO!!!

I was worried about removal, but I still have the tips.....
'Pass the Pitons' Pete

Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
Nov 3, 2010 - 10:31am PT
Saw off about 40%, and you're good to go. 3/4" are by far the most useful, make two or three of those, of slightly differing length. Smaller angles you might take off a bit less, and larger angles take off a bit more.

Ten years ago, I used to carry lots of these things on my rack. I actually used them from time to time, in spite of them being heavy. The last few years, I have barely used any. I think this is because there are so many good cams like Hybrid Aliens and the [in my opinion even better] Metolius Offset Master Cams that you can use instead.

I recently climbed Aquarian Wall, and old school nailup that you would expect could use a few sawed-offs. The McTopo called for one each of the big ones [inch? inch-and-a-quarter?] which we brought but never used. I did, however, make a couple 3/4" s.o. placements.

The route on El Cap most "known" to use a lot of sawed-offs is The Shield. Mark Hudon just climbed it. What did you take, and what did you use for sawed-offs, Mark?

Big peckers are by far the most useful pin you can use, and actually bring down the rating of some hard nailing pitches. Better to spend your money on those, as it's hard to have enough.
WallMan

Trad climber
Denver, CO
Nov 5, 2010 - 02:26pm PT
Bump for a good thread. Looking to do my first wall requiring sawed-offs next year. Any additional advice is appreciated.

Looking at Muir or Mescalito.

Wally
'Pass the Pitons' Pete

Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
Nov 6, 2010 - 02:13pm PT
I wrote something here back in the day:

http://www.rockclimbing.com/cgi-bin/forum/gforum.cgi?post=70180

You'll find some more fun/insteresting stuff here on my Big Wall Checklist:

http://www.rockclimbing.com/Articles/Big_Wall-Aid_Climbing/Dr._Pitons_s_Ultimate_Big_Wall_Checklist_17.html

Awaiting Mark's comments re. what he actually needed for sawed-offs on the Shield.
426

climber
Buzzard Point, TN
Nov 6, 2010 - 02:23pm PT
We used zero sawed off on Mesc and Muir. Both go super clean with cam hooks and modern arsenal...



We could have used some on the NA Wall, I made some crazy free moves on "2 finger pockets" where nothing we had would stick...
Mark Hudon

Trad climber
Hood River, OR
Nov 6, 2010 - 02:37pm PT
I think we hand placed three or four sawn angles on the Shield. I hammered two and John "one tapped" two or three others. All placements were the 1" and 1 1/4" angles and even further, the 1" was placed far more often.
Modern offset cams more often than not replace the need for sawn angles.
WallMan

Trad climber
Denver, CO
Nov 11, 2010 - 03:56pm PT
Pete, 426, Mark - appreciate the beta, thank you. Climb on!

Wally
Kalimon

Social climber
Ridgway, CO
Sep 5, 2014 - 08:59pm PT
Are sawed offs passe? Does the offset cam suffice?
Captain...or Skully

climber
in the oil patch...Fricken Bakken, that's where
Sep 5, 2014 - 09:02pm PT
I still bring a couple sawed offs. Not passé.
j-tree

Big Wall climber
Typewriters and Ledges
Sep 5, 2014 - 09:34pm PT
Blue, yellow, and sonetimes green totems are going to work better in sawed off placements than sawed offs, as will peckers.
Messages 1 - 18 of total 18 in this topic
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