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Messages 1 - 18 of total 18 in this topic |
Peyton Hassinger
Big Wall climber
Raleigh, NC
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Topic Author's Original Post - Nov 2, 2010 - 03:28pm PT
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I just bought some angles and need to saw them off. The last time I did this I just eye-balled it. I'm wondering where exactly other people have sawed their angles.
thanks,
Peyton
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Rhodo-Router
Gym climber
wussing off the topout on Roadside Attraction
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On a picnic table;)
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Shimanilami
Trad climber
San Jose, CA
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I mix it up. Some are 1/4 sawed off, others are 1/3. I haven't run into a situation where I wanted it shorter than that.
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cragnshag
Social climber
san joser
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shoot me an email. I will sell you all the saw-offs you need. Most were never used. All have nice rounded and filed edges. $9 ea, shipping included.
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Mark Hudon
Trad climber
Hood River, OR
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1/4 to 1/3 off. I had some cut in half and they are pretty much useless.
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Rhodo-Router
Gym climber
wussing off the topout on Roadside Attraction
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Silver, you'd probably be better off simply drilling holes and swaging a wire through there.
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Fat Dad
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
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Pretty much what everyone else said. A little variety can be handy, so don't make them all uniform. Tucker chopped the last ones I used at the rescue site in Camp 4. You won't find him there now clearly, but you may find someone else who could help you.
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marv
Mountain climber
Bay Area
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would a hacksaw -- the only saw I've used in my life -- hack it? I've been putting this off on account of not having a clue
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mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
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A angle grinder works just fine, no worries about the heat treatment, it is after all a sawed off...
Baby-1/2" I like to have really short, about 1/2 the length.
5/8ths- 1" I would go with 1/3-1/4 off as others have said.
A hack saw is cool to, just get a bastard file to form the sharp edges.
Get a few blades, and some sort of clamp or vise.
As to Silver's question, a hole with a swage seems cool. You get all amped up, grab your handy homemade pintip, hammer that mother and fix it all to hell. A2 now FOR SHO!!!
I was worried about removal, but I still have the tips.....
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
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Saw off about 40%, and you're good to go. 3/4" are by far the most useful, make two or three of those, of slightly differing length. Smaller angles you might take off a bit less, and larger angles take off a bit more.
Ten years ago, I used to carry lots of these things on my rack. I actually used them from time to time, in spite of them being heavy. The last few years, I have barely used any. I think this is because there are so many good cams like Hybrid Aliens and the [in my opinion even better] Metolius Offset Master Cams that you can use instead.
I recently climbed Aquarian Wall, and old school nailup that you would expect could use a few sawed-offs. The McTopo called for one each of the big ones [inch? inch-and-a-quarter?] which we brought but never used. I did, however, make a couple 3/4" s.o. placements.
The route on El Cap most "known" to use a lot of sawed-offs is The Shield. Mark Hudon just climbed it. What did you take, and what did you use for sawed-offs, Mark?
Big peckers are by far the most useful pin you can use, and actually bring down the rating of some hard nailing pitches. Better to spend your money on those, as it's hard to have enough.
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WallMan
Trad climber
Denver, CO
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Bump for a good thread. Looking to do my first wall requiring sawed-offs next year. Any additional advice is appreciated.
Looking at Muir or Mescalito.
Wally
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426
climber
Buzzard Point, TN
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We used zero sawed off on Mesc and Muir. Both go super clean with cam hooks and modern arsenal...
We could have used some on the NA Wall, I made some crazy free moves on "2 finger pockets" where nothing we had would stick...
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Mark Hudon
Trad climber
Hood River, OR
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I think we hand placed three or four sawn angles on the Shield. I hammered two and John "one tapped" two or three others. All placements were the 1" and 1 1/4" angles and even further, the 1" was placed far more often.
Modern offset cams more often than not replace the need for sawn angles.
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WallMan
Trad climber
Denver, CO
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Nov 11, 2010 - 03:56pm PT
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Pete, 426, Mark - appreciate the beta, thank you. Climb on!
Wally
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Kalimon
Social climber
Ridgway, CO
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Are sawed offs passe? Does the offset cam suffice?
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Captain...or Skully
climber
in the oil patch...Fricken Bakken, that's where
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I still bring a couple sawed offs. Not passé.
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j-tree
Big Wall climber
Typewriters and Ledges
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Blue, yellow, and sonetimes green totems are going to work better in sawed off placements than sawed offs, as will peckers.
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