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James
climber
My twin brother's laundry room
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Topic Author's Original Post - Nov 2, 2010 - 12:01pm PT
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Yesterday, Nov 1 2010, Alex Honnold, 25, and Will Stanhope, a pup faced 24, hiked to the South face of Yosemite's Half Dome. In a true wildnerness experience, the pair of climbers saw no one on the trail. Around 7 am the pair began climbing Southern Belle (5.12dR). The route is notorious for the scary and difficult climbing. Hank Caylor broke his legs on an attempt. Dean Potter and Leo Houlding made the second ascent. Supposedly, Potter was nauseous from fright while leading one of the upper pitches.
Honnold, who's boldness includes free solo ascents of Yosemite's Higher Cathedral Rock The Crucifix (5.12b) and the Regular Northwest Face of Half Dome (5.12b), "It was stimulating-parts of it were just down right mundane. It's definitely not death- but it's easy to get off route. I could see how Hank broke his legs." The pair made a team free ascent- swinging leads. Honnold had no falls. Stanhope fell toproping the fourth pitch. Stanhope tried again and unleashed his Canadian Fury, crimping down on the unchalked version of Blue Suede Shoes. On the summit, they were overcome by dehydration and drank out of the puddles of water on top.
To all the aspiring Supertopo climbers who want to climb the route, Honnold said, "It's just like Snake Dike but more extreme."
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Port
Trad climber
San Diego
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wow.....
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elcap-pics
Big Wall climber
Crestline CA
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Fun stuff! Good work lads!
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matty
Trad climber
los arbor
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parts of it were just down right mundane
zzzzzz-guess I'll pass on the fourth, sounds boring, I'm looking for something that will keep me interested.
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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That is awsome. They gonna go back and do the rest of those routes. Sounds like those two are growing up strong.
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GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
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what the...
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philo
Trad climber
Somewhere halfway over the rainbow
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To all the aspiring Supertopo climbers who want to climb the route, Honnold said, "It's just like Snake Dike but more extreme."
Woo Hoo if your name is Honnold.
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survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
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No good without pics.
No one on the trail? No pics? No proof?
I understand. Why just last week when I did the first free solo of Mescalito, I didn't see anyone either. My damn camera was broken too.....
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Bad Climber
climber
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As with the late, great Alex Lowe, Honnold cannot be trusted. If he says, "No big deal," assume mere mortals should stay away.
That said, I'll say this: Well done!
BAd
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ron gomez
Trad climber
fallbrook,ca
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Pretty cool! so I've done Snake Dike....southern belle?????
Peace
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TKingsbury
Trad climber
MT
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from Will Stanhope's facebook page:
"Attempt #1 on the gorgeous Southern Belle with Honn-bold. Pitch 5. Micro-wires forever."
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426
climber
Buzzard Point, TN
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Good on them! Seeeeck...
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Bldrjac
Ice climber
Boulder
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WOw! That is so cool! I'm inspired to go do the NOSE free.
I heard it's just like Pillar of Frenzy, just more difficult.
Gotta love the fun these younger climbers have. Good on 'em.
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Doug Robinson
Trad climber
Santa Cruz
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Congrats Boys!
You Sooo Bad.
Headed for Snake Dike Thursday. But hmmm....
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Studly
Trad climber
WA
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Way to send Alex and Will! Inspiring to say the least..
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ydpl8s
Trad climber
Santa Monica, California
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Jesus!!! I think it's time for Alex to free the compressor route on Cerro Torre - blindfolded! Has anybody checked his DNA, did his parents come from Roswell?
Impressive!
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canyoncat
Social climber
SoCal
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Just as long as they're home before the street lights come on.
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Mike Bolte
Trad climber
Planet Earth
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yes!! these kids are something.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Thanks, James - awesome news! And congratulations to Will and Alex!
Now about that Yosemite's next idol thing....
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JEleazarian
Trad climber
Fresno CA
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The kids are all right!
"It's just like Snake Dike but more extreme."
That quote leaves me speechless.
Fantastic work!
John
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Peter Haan
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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This tale of The Honnold and Will going up there is much like the ancient epics and fairytales of yore recounting the arrival of some splendid young heros who then slay the mythical dragon that has been living up in the hills terrorizing the villagers below for generations.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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True that Peter
As a slab lover, I think this ranks up there with the greats!
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Peter Haan
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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It has to, Munge. 2,000 ft of that granite; it's the best rock the Valley has to offer. I so want to hear more about their experience up there.
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Barbarian
Trad climber
The great white north, eh?
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These lads inspire me to no end! Bravo! Well done!
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Fletcher
Trad climber
from the place of breath
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Hummana, hummana, hummana.... very impressive. Love Alex's advice!
That boy is not of this earth.
Eric
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survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
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I'm proud of them for going after the Belle rather than that sport route next door....:)
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Brian in SLC
Social climber
Salt Lake City, UT
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Kind of interesting how repeat ascents are so awe inspiring. Huge kudos, of course!
But, something brand new would be pretty nifty...
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atchafalaya
climber
Babylon
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Super cool for these guys to trash yesterdays hyped testpieces. Out with the old...
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Slakkey
Big Wall climber
From Back to Big Wall Baby
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Thats what we like to see here Awesome climbing.
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the kid
Trad climber
fayetteville, wv
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solid..
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MisterE
Social climber
Bouncy Tiggerville
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Glad to see these two strong climbers send this line.
Three ascents in 22 years says a lot about the route, regardless of Alex down-playing it.
Thanks for the report, James.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Good send from two great climbers. Notice how climbs with relatively (by today's standards) low technical ratings that have a sting in the tail stand the test of time.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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maybe the guys will give the route next door a shot and see if they could have established it ground up onsight. Now there's a topic that all us armchair climbers can get behind spewing on the internetz about! heh :)
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MisterE
Social climber
Bouncy Tiggerville
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I've never climbed an armchair - is it harder than the regular chair traverse?
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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next yosemite idol?
Good news about the send... sounds like it's getting routine at 3 ascents... just like Snake Dike? perhaps because the two routes are on the same dome...
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the Fet
climber
Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La
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If old dudes were hot young chicks these guys would be stoked.
Amazing send. Too bad the mainstream can't appreciate how awesome this stuff is.
They probably get the groupies when in Europe though.
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Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
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Congrats! I guess it helps to have the head to solo 5.11d slab on Half Dome
First continuous ascent if I'm not mistaken and onsight to boot!
Peace
Karl
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k-man
Gym climber
SCruz
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No doubt, a fantastic ascent.
It'd be interesting to hear more about the style. How long did they take and how much of the route was onsighted?
Come on now!
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SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
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OMG!!!!!
Nice send, lads.
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Peter Haan
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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for convenience sake as a reference: 1998 REID guide
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Peter Haan
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Third FREE ascent.
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bmacd
Trad climber
100% Canadian
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Will had his eyes on SB back in the spring of this year when I mentioned that "Growing Up" had not had a proper ascent;
From Will. 28 April 2010:
Thanks for the heads-up. That route looks wild. Would love to give it a go sometime. Southern Belle back there looks great too... though apparently terrifying. Yeah, the Southern Belle is notorious. Love to climb that face at some point. Beautiful.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Stoner's Highway is a jog around the lake compared to the Belle! That is some rare air that those lads took in...won't ever be passe! Way to freakin' send, lads!
FFA of Karma next?!? It sure would be an asset before rebolting that route to know how solid these guys are so that the best possible retrofit can happen for a free ascent.
Edit: A cooperative effort seems like the best way to improve our Karma! Fortunately, Dave and Ken are both around to help make the calls because considerable reworking may be needed for optimal results. NOT a job for the ASCA!
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mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
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Proud effort, although Alex would think we are all a bunch of punters for praising this send.
I heard they did the first 5 pitches, then came back and sent.
Funny how it's "No BIG deal" to Alex, would love to hear from Will.
Mucci
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Peter Haan
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Yeah on that Stevie. And the hope too is that they have been scoping and looking at not only Karma but other new possibilities and even the Growing Up "thing". Every time I went up there, I came away with that "faraway" look in my eyes---- it just is so beautiful up there and although it is still a dome and a giant one, there have to be some really amazing lines to add, more great experiences to be had.
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Kalimon
Trad climber
Ridgway, CO
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You dudes are on top of this game . . . enjoy the awesome beauty and spectacular locations you are witnessing in your personal climbing quests. There are many who experience your climbs vicariously through multitudinous information sources and are encouraged in ways unimaginable . . . they are all grateful for you sharing these efforts.
You guys are the visionaries that are shaping the evolution of this phenomenon we call climbing. Thank you for your bravery, commitment, integrity and passion . . . have fun and live your dreams.
Show us more photos if you can . . . that rock is so stellar.
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dogtown
Trad climber
JackAssVille, Wyoming
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I have no words!@#$%^&
DT.
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survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
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Karma Karma Karma Karma!!
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MisterE
Social climber
Bouncy Tiggerville
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I really like the "Wow! What is in the future for the NexGen hardmen!"
The line between support and resentment has been clearly defined.
On which side do you stand?
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BASE104
climber
An Oil Field
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See? Southern Belle is the one they did first. I think that the Growing Up stink got the word out there.
As for Honnold. I had NEVER watched a climbing video in my life. Recently I was at a friend's cabin for a few weeks and nabbed "First Ascent." It has a super cool segment on Honnold's Half Dome solo. He got to Thank God Ledge and almost blew a fuse in his brain.
Very nice seeming kid. Goofy, complains of no girlfriends because he is so nerdy. Really funny.
The footage of him soloing Moonlight Buttress is UNREAL.
I don't know how these people can stand it with a camera in their face all of the time, but times have changed.
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tonesfrommars
Trad climber
California
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Awesome accomplishment!
I agree that this route will never be trivial (unless someone invents some kind of weird futuristic removeable plastic goo protection that you can stick anywhere)
The snake dike comment is ridiculous. I've noticed that subtle bravado before. Kind of funny, but also says something about the simplicity/purity of concept in the approach of a supremely talented climber.
Bravo guys.
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bmacd
Trad climber
100% Canadian
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It seems both these guys are well qualified to open up great new lines on SFHD. The Southern Belle ascent is a prime example of why routes should be left undone, till the next generation can come along and ascend them in good style, having grand adventures for themselves while doing so.
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Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
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As always, reports lamenting the lack of trad boldness in the younger generation of climbers haver proved to be the mutterings of ol Geezers.
There's always some wild and talented hardmen out there (even if they look like video game champions!)
Peace
karl
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bmacd
Trad climber
100% Canadian
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The lack of over sized bulging muscles and ripped definition worthy of Olympians on these superstars is simply amazing. I just dont get it ... The head space is clearly where its at.
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Peter Haan
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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I don't know Pilgrims. Alex has a superb strength-to-weight ratio--- a really modern climber:
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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I've never climbed an armchair - is it harder than the regular chair traverse?
yeah, but only by two letter grades. hahaha :)
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Doesn't it depend on whether one does the sit down start?
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2 l l
Sport climber
Rancho Verga, CA
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It now seems strange that Croft/ Shultz were rebuffed on thier attempt(s).
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Roxy
Trad climber
CA Central Coast
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awesome, cheers to Honn-bold
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MisterE
Social climber
Bouncy Tiggerville
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Great shot, Walleye.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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> "It's just like Snake Dike but more extreme."
haha, good one!
Not true, though.
Yes, it's *runout* like Snake Dike.
But you can't get lost on Snake Dike, once you get onto the Dike.
You can easily get off route on Southern Belle, since there are hardly any bolts to find and no big dike to follow.
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Adamame
Big Wall climber
Santa Cruz
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I think this an awesome and proud send of a bold and beautiful line. Will and Alex get a lot if respect for stuff like this. But I would like to ask the question, does your view of the ascent change if you knew this team used fixed lines to mini-traxion and rehearse the upper pitches. Would that be against the rules considering the controversy next door and the aura of The South Face. Does this reduce the route to a lower level or is it equally proud send either way?
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Peter Haan
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Rock + Ice has this now:
Alex Honnold and Will Stanhope made the third free ascent of Half Dome's notoriously run out Southern Belle (5.12d) yesterday (November 1). The pair had worked out the first five pitches the week before and then started at 5 a.m., going for the one-day send. According to James Lucas, who talked to the climbers, "On one pitch a knob that Honnold had slung came off as he climbed 10 feet above it on 5.10 terrain. He was looking at a 120-foot fall if he didn't make it to the next bolt." The climbers were so dehydrated when they topped out that they drank out of puddles on the summit.
Southern Belle consists of 14 pitches, four of which are 5.12, with six pitches of 5.11. The route was established (and almost freed) by Walt Shipley and Dave Schultz in 1987 and freed the next year by Schultz and Scott Cosgrove. Dean Potter and Leo Houlding made the second free ascent 18 years later in 2006.
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10b4me
Ice climber
Happy Boulders
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pretty impressive
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survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
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does your view of the ascent change if you knew this team used fixed lines to mini-traxion and rehearse the upper pitches
I don't get it. I hadn't heard of someone doing this. Is this a hypothetical question? Sounds pretty specific.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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The upper pitches, from about the fifth onward, apparently involve serious route-finding. Rehearsing them would remove a lot of the challenge. The first 4 - 5 pitches are mostly cracks, so whatever else, there aren't route-finding issues.
It's hypothetical, given that W & A only rehearsed the first five.
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k-man
Gym climber
SCruz
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MH, I'm not certain we know all the specifics of how long the team took to do the route and the methods involved.
I've also heard reports of MiniTraxion, so I'm wondering how much was onsight?
Still a super proud send.
And James, your OP is kinda odd--Stanhope fell on TR, but then had to wander through "unchalked" holds? Something's funhny there.
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bmacd
Trad climber
100% Canadian
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Stanhopes caption to the facebook picture states "First Attempt" dated Oct 28th, rephrasing that as a "rehearsal" is hardly fair. They had both the Cosgrove topo and the original Shipley/Schultz topo. Critics as yet do not have a claim made by the climbers to criticize. Its not an FFA it's a repeat of an existing line.
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k-man
Gym climber
SCruz
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I don't think anybody is trying to criticize. You climb SB, that is proud.
Period.
As is natural, folks will be curious about the details of the ascent. I know I am.
Also, would love to see a copy of the original topo! CMac said he'd post it on the SB route page, but it ain't there!
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k-man
Gym climber
SCruz
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Now that is cool, thx.
FWIW, I heard Stanhope took (& used) three sets of micros on the seam pitch. Frickin' Wild!!
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Chicken Skinner
Trad climber
Yosemite
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Good job guys! I guess it's a trade route now.
Ken
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Peter Haan
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Thanks Clint for that link. Of course we want to hear more!
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2 l l
Sport climber
Rancho Verga, CA
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Nov 17, 2010 - 09:38pm PT
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FFA of Karma next?!? As long as we're dreaming, how about Lost Again next.
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MH2
climber
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Nov 26, 2010 - 08:12pm PT
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Nice to see that. Alex has a great smile.
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Doug Robinson
Trad climber
Santa Cruz
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Nov 26, 2010 - 09:49pm PT
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Alex arrived at the belay bug-eyed, and said, "this route is a good adventure!" We rapped down, had pizza at Curry Village...
By far the best writeup yet. Good details.
Thanks Will!
I like his October blog too, swinging leads on Bachar-Yerian with his girlfriend. These are some wild young climbers, obviously having a great time.
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Peter Haan
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Nov 26, 2010 - 09:59pm PT
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Thanks Supa for the Will link. It has become clear that The Belle is still being looked at as quite technical and hard.
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bmacd
Trad climber
100% Canadian
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Nov 27, 2010 - 12:31am PT
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Down to earth guys, brimming with extreme talent , having grand adventures. Simply awesome. Thanks for the link
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Nov 27, 2010 - 01:52am PT
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Thanks for the link.
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Peter Haan
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Nov 27, 2010 - 02:00am PT
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Will Stanhope: a better photo of him
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BruceAnderson
Social climber
Los Angeles
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Nov 27, 2010 - 02:12am PT
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more proof that in his prime Coz was one of the best freeclimbers in the world.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Nov 27, 2010 - 02:38am PT
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Is this the ultimate slab route?
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Peter Haan
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Nov 27, 2010 - 11:04am PT
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Munge, great question. I have been wondering that myself. I think it is, and we're talking "the world", too. If we consider length, placement, difficulty, history, quality of rock, nature of the climbing, drama.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Nov 27, 2010 - 04:24pm PT
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As for ultimate slab, Hall of Mirrors is another contender, especially in the smooth and edging departments. It has had only one repeat.
Southern Belle is harder, has the hard crack climbing start, and of course is notorious for being more runout than the Bachar-Yerian.
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JakeW
Big Wall climber
CA
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Nov 27, 2010 - 05:31pm PT
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Yes, these guys are great climbers, but Will crashed into my car trying to back out of the driveway, and I once saw Alex unable to get a rope through his rappel device...right after saying "god doesn't rain on MY parade." Apparently competence doesn't always extend to all realms of life. ;)
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