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thebravecowboy
climber
walking, resin-stained, towards the goal
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One thing i like less than aid ladders is alumina ladders.
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tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
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Mike, It wasen't my fault! Alden emailed me sat night and asked me if i wanted to go to the lake. I figured it was mostly out and that we would get on some of the easier shorter climbs that would be in grade 5 condition but nothing too committed and Alden would be happy and I could go home with everything intact. Heck maybe nothings in and we will end up soloing a nice easy 2+ gully in NH. Heck I will even pack my Quarks in case we bail on the hard stuff and do a gully. How bad can it be? Of course I was telling myself blatant lies...
We get there Sunday morning it is 13f and the wind is whipping up whitecaps on the lake. Alden never even slows down by the south end where the more normal climbs are. He heads right for the ampetheater. We get out of the car and wonder where all the climbers are? Alden tells me not to worry about a rack as he has it covered. Note to self. (allways bring extra screws when Alden says he has the rack!)
To make a long story short we ended up on the Prom which is one of the bigger more serious routes in the north east. Alden had a very hungry rat to feed....Pitch one had some pretty thin hard climbing on it over a stubby belay. P 2 was lean, mean and probobly X with the possibility of takeing the whole buisness to the deck. The sun was hitting the hanging belay and melting the screws out and the pitch itself was 5+ with half driven stubbies. We did not have enough screws and the ones we did have were mostly 10cm and a few 13's and only 2 16s so we had to do it in 4 pitches and I ended up at at least one hanging belay that was all stubbies. the last pitch was fat and overhanging but Alden forgot the longer screws. We had the 16s in the belay at the top and had to make our threads for the 1st rap with 13's the whole climb was wicked hard, wicked scary and lots of fun. The only pitch I could have possibly led (if I was in mid season shape) was the 1st pitch. of course there is a coupple hundred ft of Alpine grade 2 to get to the base which naturally needed to be reversed in the dark at the end of the day..
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 8, 2014 - 08:42am PT
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Sounds like a great day.
Edit: At least the short ones go in quick.
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WyoRockMan
climber
Flank of the Big Horns
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V-Threads made with 13s?!?!?!?!
Gack!
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tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
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Alden says you can do it with 10's........ I am haveing a bit of a PTSD even just thinking of that..
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WyoRockMan
climber
Flank of the Big Horns
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Alden says you can do it with 10's
Alden says HE can do it with 10's.
Fixed that for ya! :)
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tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
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Mike. all his screws are duller than a plate of piss.... I think he could climb 2 grades harder (if that is even possible) with a new rack of screws.. He is on his way out to Montana tomorrow. hope the temps co operate....
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tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
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tonight I climbed out of my truck in a stream bed....
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WyoRockMan
climber
Flank of the Big Horns
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Ohhh man. Glad you are all right Tradman.
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tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
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Dec 10, 2014 - 04:53am PT
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I am doing better than the truck...
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Dec 10, 2014 - 06:16am PT
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Yikes!
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Edge
Trad climber
Betwixt and Between Nederland & Boulder, CO
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Dec 12, 2014 - 07:25pm PT
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60 degree day in Boulder, so Prod and I skipped out of work and played in the sun in Dream Canyon.
That's all I'm saying; it was a beautiful experience.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Dec 14, 2014 - 12:31am PT
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This:
I climbed the right variation, Climb and Punishment 10d
and my buddy kieran climbed this:
Here's Kieran on his onsight of Grumpy Old Men 11c
Contemplating the clip
Pulling the first bulge
Chalk up in the scoop
Ryand and Electra showed up for a visit.
Technical climbing!
Nice work Kieran!
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ß Î Ø T Ç H
Boulder climber
extraordinaire
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Dec 14, 2014 - 01:50am PT
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Rad,^^
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tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
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Dec 14, 2014 - 04:37am PT
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This thread is awsome. I wish there was a like button for photos.
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StahlBro
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Dec 14, 2014 - 09:20am PT
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DEE, P. Binding and StahlBro do Indian Palisades
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Bad Climber
climber
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Dec 15, 2014 - 04:31pm PT
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Climbing into the tub with my honey in about five minutes!
BAd
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MtnDeb
Mountain climber
Bishop, CA
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Dec 15, 2014 - 05:28pm PT
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I "climbed" a road (actually yesterday, too stormy for a good pic of road climbing today).
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