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Edge
Trad climber
Boulder, CO
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Sep 10, 2014 - 10:46pm PT
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My son never really got into climbing, probably because he knew he could never compete with his sister, but since he was visiting us in Boulder I talked him into his first real outdoor climb.
He seemed to enjoy it...
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thebravecowboy
climber
strugglin' to make time to climb
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Sep 10, 2014 - 10:52pm PT
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^saddhu taking soft drugs
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MisterE
Gym climber
Bishop, CA
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Sep 10, 2014 - 11:03pm PT
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 14, 2014 - 11:48am PT
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Got out to Devils Tower Friday night and rope soloed the first pitch of El Mat a pretty easy 8+. The only problem was that with all the crap I carried up there I ended up with two left shoes. Got it clean so I guess it didn't work too bad.It was very busy on Saturday WYOrockman and I did tad. We were the first ones up there with a couple of parties on Durrance. By the time we came down there were parties everywhere. Seemed like most were very competent, but the crowds led to some confusion and I ended up with part of the Iowa guys rack in my pack after they had put their gear on top of the rack we left when we went for the summit. We got it all straightened out, but later in the day somebody knocked off a very large rock up above Durrance and the bowling alley. It hit some guys IO had met the night before badly breaking one guys leg and giving another guy huge gashes on his leg from the shrapnel. It was very lucky no one was killed. I helped out with the carry down which was executed very well. The guys had topped out and were just walking down when hit.
The south face of the tower is quite dangerous when there are people above and there had to be 25+ people there and it is very easy to start a rock rolling on the meadows that will not stop and is over many of the classic routes. Looking forward to when everyone is gone in a week or two. Where a helmet and get up early when there are a lot of people out there. Stay safe and if any of the people involved in the accident need any help I live in Spearfish which is where the injured were taken you can contact me.
Lastly I ended up camping and having a few beers with a large group from Iowa who were very good climbers. It is amazing the how motivated they are to drive 7-12 hours to climb on a weekend which they said they do quite often. I believe some of them are on the taco. Great to meet you guys.Never good when you see the ambulance pulling up.
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WyoRockMan
climber
Flank of the Big Horns
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Sep 14, 2014 - 03:33pm PT
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MikeM talked me into doing TAD, the "No Star, POS, forget about it, it sucks donkey balls, wide, grovel, suffering..." climb on the SE of the tower. It was super fun and really enjoyable. Glad to have my comfy Misty to hang in for the belay though. And thanks for not grabbing my nuts while passing Mike!
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Pcutler
climber
Iowa
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Sep 14, 2014 - 05:02pm PT
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Good to meet you too mike, the Iowa crew had another successful outing! On a side note, one of our crew hadn't been climbing outdoors before. His first route was durance with baileys direct finish. He crushed it without sitting on the rope once! Up and down back to the car in 3 hrs. Pretty cool for a complete beginner.
Scary accident the next day though. Very lucky nobody was killed. Guys that got hurt were only feet off the paved trail, walking down to the car. They were camping next to us - super cool dudes. Wrong place wrong time, sending good vibes your way!
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tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
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Sep 14, 2014 - 07:29pm PT
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Lots of cool stuff everyone!
Got out and freed the short 5.9 that I had rope soloed last weekend.a bit of traversing allong a tree ledge and found annother nice long 5.9 pitch. Funny photo as you can see my tag line but the lead line is hidden by a corner.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Sep 14, 2014 - 08:56pm PT
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They don't call it the bowling alley for nothin!
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eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
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Sep 15, 2014 - 08:24am PT
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Got a second Black Canyon route in this year on Saturday with Mike Ciccione -- Highway 61 Revisited to Journey Home. Loved it!
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 15, 2014 - 01:07pm PT
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eeyonkee would beee lovelee to seee some photees from the black canyon.
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eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
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Sep 15, 2014 - 01:43pm PT
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Mike, I'll post one or two assuming I took a couple of decent ones (haven't even looked yet).
By the way, two parties were on the Scenic Cruise, which is the next line to the left of Highway 61. The second party decided to bail at pitch 7, and they made 7 rappels to the ground. Shortly thereafter, a large rock, knocked off by the first party near the top, made impact exactly where the two (Joe and Paul) on the ground were standing. Joe and Paul (who we talked with later) both heard the rock like an incoming missile and immediately launched themselves in separate directions for cover. The rock landed like a bomb and Joe sustained a shrapnel injury to the hand.
Joe and Paul later spoke with the first party who admitted to accidentally (of course) knocking off the rock. That final terrace just before the top is what makes the routes from Goss-Logan to Journey Home particularly dangerous.
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thebravecowboy
climber
hold on tight boys
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Sep 15, 2014 - 07:53pm PT
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some kowality clam-jamming on solo TR as the sun set. the cracks were new to me and overhanging. just a wonderful affirmation, once more, that pushing past the rat poo, moving into the unbelievable, can really reward. it was a good little cliff, and new.
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 16, 2014 - 06:33am PT
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Got a couple of pitches in at the tower with the college climbing club. Got a couple of guys on their. First crack pitches. Still quite busy over there. Doesn't every one know it is just snow and cold temps around here. Climbing sucks now move along.
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yanqui
climber
Balcarce, Argentina
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Sep 16, 2014 - 07:01am PT
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On Saturday did some more of my very own short bouldery clip ups with friends and on Sunday solitary bouldering, all on the hill in front of my house. I just don't feel like driving on the weekends and I have an infinity of "things pending" within walking distance.
Martín and Hugo working a short and somewhat squeezed, but never-the-less interesting, 11b face on top rope
Me on a slightly harder face thingie and feeling pretty good 7 months post-op
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Sep 23, 2014 - 05:40am PT
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Friday evening, after work Herb Crimp (who led the first, crux pitch, and yes that is his real name :) and Nate Sydnor and I climbed Industrial Disease 5.11+++on devildog tower, in Arches NP.
Loose weirdness led to perfect fingers, to a wide soirée, to more stellar fingers. The 2nd pitch ( that I climbed in the dark) is a ferociously overhanging 5.10 handcrack, with a tricky start. The summit of the tower is reached by a brief short-roped scramble.
I thought transitioning from the Wyde, to the fingers, perfect locks just out if my reach, was the crux. Those (taller) guys found the Wyde ( which they each resorted to lay backing) to be problematic- go figure...
Anyone ever done this semi ferocious, "97 star dick wrenching mega classic"?
...I will reorient photos later today, now I gotta get to work!
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TwistedCrank
climber
Released into general population, Idaho
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Sep 23, 2014 - 06:22am PT
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Spam debump
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bob
climber
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Sep 23, 2014 - 08:23am PT
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Dan, is that Voyager? I've done it twice and I still can't tell.
Some yummy free climbing.
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