What did you climb today!


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beyond the sun
Mar 14, 2013 - 12:02pm PT
My finger got kind of torn up and bloody yesterday, and some stuff to do came up, so we'll save fiddler for next week. Ya, I've read and heard some interesting stories about people who have pitched off traversing above the roof. I need to get an ascender(s) of some sort to bring along just in case. I don't expect either me or my partner to go for the ride, but anything is possible.

The whole thing just looks so good, plus of course the cache of doing a route like that (not that I care about such things :) ) Multiple people coming off POD interviewed us about the Rock Warrior experience. It was a little weird.

According to Handren's book, Rock Warrior sees less ascents in a year than POD does in a busy day. That's amazing to me. Must mean Fidder gets the same amount in a decade?

beyond the sun
Mar 14, 2013 - 01:36pm PT
It was mostly good. First pitch is pretty spicy as you move up to (insecure, sandy slab) and then past the bolt. It was made even more spicy by my partner's route finding. He went straight up and then traversed directly right to the belay, whereas an up and right(ish) direction would have made the climbing a bit easier. There was potential for a pretty long whip onto the starting slab. I was prepared to jump off the first belay ledge if need be.

Upon further investigation, it looks like the path we took for pitch 1 might have been kind of a combination of RW and Sandstone samurai? Not really sure, except that the crux as we did it on that pitch felt noticeably harder than that of pitch #2 (on which I almost didn't really even notice a crux). Pitch one as we did it had a few moves that could be 10c/d (when compared with pitch 2), especially if you were on lead doing them with a possible leg breaking fall to the starting slab as your reward for botching it.

The first gear my partner placed after the bolt (after pulling the crux) was not great. #4 stopper in a bit of a flare. Then more runout until finally a couple of good placements. After that, it's easier going until the anchor.

I led pitch #2 (also 10b) and it wasn't nearly as scary nor seemed as hard, even though there were 40 foot sections unprotected. A fall anywhere on it, though long, would be clean. The higher you go, the better the gear.

The rest of the pitches are 5.9/9+, with long runouts and good gear when you need it. Some RP's could be useful to take some of the spice out of it, but we didn't bring any. Honestly, if you're able to stand around fiddling in gear like that, you're able to just keep on going.

The only thing that really made it a little hair raising is that many of the holds look like they could break. I often opted for smaller, more solid looking edges over larger features that were lined with hair line fractures.

Honestly though, after pitch #2, the climbing itself was monotonous and only having to figure out the puzzle of route finding (mostly having to think about if a hold might break or not) made it interesting. All that standing around en route could add up to fatigued feet and calves. An arm pump should never be a problem.

I have always really enjoyed cerebral footwork face routes, like at Tuolumne and Jtree. So, this route is in the vein of things like that. But,in the case of RW, there were too many holds. Removing the possibility of breaking something from the equation leaves you with dozens of possible ways to advance each time. If that makes sense...


beyond the sun
Mar 14, 2013 - 04:01pm PT
I'd say climb prince of darkness first. If it feels casual, then you're probably good to go on RW. Just make sure you do pitch #1 with proper route finding, and not like we did it. You could even climb pitch 1 of POD and then traverse left to the anchors atop P1 of RW and continue that route from there, thus avoiding the most puckering and dangerous part. You could even each lower to the start and TR P1 before continuing on.

And, I'd be plenty interested in getting out sometime. You live over here by RR now? PM me and we can talk more about it.
curt wohlgemuth

Social climber
Bay Area, California
Mar 14, 2013 - 04:29pm PT
Pretty funny reading the BV posts! I've done Fiddler once, but I've never felt confident to do Rock Warrior!!

beyond the sun
Mar 14, 2013 - 08:44pm PT
Sounds like you're less than a mile from me. Ok, check you later.

Trad climber
Where the Hoback and the mighty Snake River meet
Mar 14, 2013 - 09:33pm PT
Been climbing around on the ceiling of 2 rooms in a log cabin the past 2 days, with the help of a ladder, and I'm worked! Belay neck, check, Big Toe reaching stance, check, side pulls off cracks in logs, check and check. Used my opposing pushing muscles to scrub all the beams down with Murphy's. Oh, that was after I vacuumed every square inch of wall and ceiling. Moved furniture, delicately cleaned paintings, and a humming bird nest, still in the branch. Sh-Shoulders are on fire. Elbows complaining, hands feel like claws and I have scrapes and hunks of hide missing from invisible nails.

Feels like I've done a good bit of climbing!
Sure feel ready for The City, but it won't be till May. :(

(The art work and antiques in this place were stunning.)

Trad climber
New Durham, NH
Mar 14, 2013 - 11:01pm PT
Snow is melting fast here in NH, so this afternoon we went out to the local crag for our second day on the rock in this young season.

I took my new hammer (thank you, Taco Secret Santa "Gal!") and hand drilled a bolt for a new line that will go down this weekend. Two 25' slabs, both around .10 a/b lead to a slightly overhanging but jug filled 5.7 arÍte.


Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Mar 14, 2013 - 11:37pm PT
More crack
gonzo chemist

Fort Collins, CO
Mar 15, 2013 - 09:07pm PT
Well not today, but a bit of bouldering yesterday...this place had a bit of an approach. Discovered an AMAZING unclimbed boulder on my hike back to the car (but I'm keeping that one secret for now!).

And the best part was getting to spend the whole day with the world's sweetest pooch, the lovely Ms. Bean!

Credit: gonzo chemist

Credit: gonzo chemist

Credit: gonzo chemist

Credit: gonzo chemist

Credit: gonzo chemist

the usual car cluster...plus one very happy Bean...
Credit: gonzo chemist
mike m

Trad climber
black hills
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 15, 2013 - 09:18pm PT
Jack led his first route today. Nothing hard but it was on site, putting up his own draws and threading the rope on his own. PPD(pretty proud dad).

GC those are some great looking boulders and the peak looks good too.

Ice climber
Pomfert VT
Mar 16, 2013 - 11:07pm PT
Isa leads Pegasus Rock finish. we gon involved in a Very serious carry...
Isa leads Pegasus Rock finish. we gon involved in a Very serious carry out imeadiatly after this climb so that was our day.
Credit: tradmanclimbs

Boulder climber
takin' the scenic route to Montana
Mar 17, 2013 - 12:46am PT
Ragged edges is a great climb

Social climber
Hercules, CA
Mar 18, 2013 - 01:21am PT
Got out to Castle Hill. Love it there. Need more time to find problems I can actually do though.

Where to begin. . .
Where to begin. . .
Credit: Phil_B

Santa Cruz
Mar 18, 2013 - 01:23am PT

Social climber
So Cal
Mar 19, 2013 - 08:40pm PT
Warmed up on Boulderdash

Credit: TGT

Then a bit of "low angle dummy dome slab".

It felt really easy since nothing was moving underfoot for once.

Credit: TGT

Then over to O'Kelly's

I'm to old for this sh#t,

and my fat fingers don't fit!

so I spotted and took pics.

Credit: TGT

I promised Triet a beer if he got up it and two if he got it clean, so I still owe him one more beer.

Credit: TGT

Jason struggled with the start, but he got the rest in good style.

Credit: TGT

Tran had enough sense to spectate and there was another Topoian lurking behind a water bottle.

Credit: TGT

I think he ran about three laps on this rig.

Credit: TGT
Big Mike

Trad climber
Mar 20, 2013 - 03:09am PT
Climbed four stairs, four times in physio!!! Wooo frickin Hooo!!!! :)

Beyond stoked!!
Fig's Lady

Social climber
Bishop, CA and Tucson Arizona
Mar 20, 2013 - 03:14am PT
Summited Panther Peak and said hi to the PP boulders.

Big Wall climber
san jose, ca
Mar 20, 2013 - 03:17am PT
Yeah Mike!!!

Trad climber
Mar 20, 2013 - 10:29am PT
I climbed blind faith and sunset boulevard yesterday with my good buddy Abe. Looking forward to a good season of after work climbing in the canyon!

beyond the sun
Mar 20, 2013 - 10:55am PT
Got out to Fiddler on the Roof finally, yesterday. I'm waiting on my partner to send over the pics. I'll see if any are worth posting.

It went perfectly until the crux move of the 4th pitch. I whipped off on the exit. Then again on try #2. Those weren't too bad. But then higher up my foot suddenly popped and I went for another, much longer ride. By the time pitch 4 was over, we were both tired of standing around at hanging belays and decided to bail. We'll go back another day for the full send.

But my God, that route is spectacular. Especially Pitch4.
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