Discussion Topic |
|
This thread has been locked |
| Messages 1 - 48 of total 48 in this topic |
survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
|
|
|
Topic Author's Original Post - Oct 21, 2010 - 12:37pm PT
|
This ought to be one plenty of us can play on.
Tarbuster was encouraging me to scan up some more photos, so here you go!
These aren't as ancient as some of my pics anyhoo.
Awww, why limit ourselves to the Reggae Route? Got other Dome shots you wanna throw down? Go for it!
These are from a Cozmic Bandito ascent in 96, right after Keith and I did Excalibur. More to come later.
Dr. Voodoo Child on the sharp end.
Beautiful evening bivy, top-o-the-11th?
The smoker you drink the player you get.
Bring it on people! All things Half Dome are welcome here!
|
|
survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 21, 2010 - 01:51pm PT
|
Survival busted hangdogging trying to free something right after Thank God Ledge...I think.
Voodoo Child enjoying TGL!
|
|
survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 21, 2010 - 02:45pm PT
|
Such are the lonely fate of climbing threads here on SuperDrama Forum.
*Sigh*.......
The view down to Big Sandy from the Zig Zags.
Mel standing on TGL, almost 20 years after the first time we were there together.
|
|
Fat Dad
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
|
|
|
Oct 21, 2010 - 02:53pm PT
|
Ah, if I only had photos to post. I did as a 16 yr. old, 30 yrs. ago now. Climbed it with another 17 and 18 yr. old if I remember correctly. I want to say one of the guys had a camera but I don't think I ever saw any of the shots. Pity. I'd be like a time machine.
|
|
squatch
Boulder climber
santa cruz, CA
|
|
|
Oct 21, 2010 - 02:58pm PT
|
F*ck yeah half dome!
|
|
Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
|
|
|
Oct 21, 2010 - 03:01pm PT
|
Survival,
I bet you aren't aware that the Comte d'Artagnan made an ascent of the NWF BITD!
|
|
survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 21, 2010 - 03:19pm PT
|
Ah, if I only had photos to post. I did as a 16 yr. old, 30 yrs. ago now.
Hell yeah fat dad. Not many of us had a decent camera BITD. 1980 with a couple of other 17-18 yr olds? You guys are lucky you had ropes or any food up there, much less a camera! I was lucky and usually with someone that had a camera.
Keith and I had no camera on the Direct NWF, in 78, but we met up with Mel and Bryan on Big Sandy, and Bryan had a camera.
Even in 96 you can see I was shooting with a disposable panorama job....
Squatch, somebody has a better camera! Nice!
Reilly, ok, can you fill me in some more on that pic, or ascent?
The Brave Little Toaster waving from the diving board.
|
|
Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
|
|
|
Oct 21, 2010 - 03:44pm PT
|
Survival,
I refer, bien sur, to my esteemed partner's sartorial splendor a la his 'day job'....
C'ette ascente was plus d' memorable excepté pour le facte that shortly après
le pendulum it began to snow très heavily and continued until le top.
I just wish I had taken le camera out for le traverse d' Thanksgiving Ledge avec
4" of neige on it - mon dieu -très formidable!
|
|
Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
|
|
|
Oct 21, 2010 - 04:18pm PT
|
Hoh, man, "Mais, oui".
"Yes, but you might have to feed them first."
"Hey, man, I'm startin' to freak out!"
"I'm outta it. They're outta it!"
"Can't you see he's havin' a big mac attack?"
"Oh my god, my balls are gone!"
Might have to add that 'un to my best movies list. Merci buckets!
Where's Tami? Snort, snort!
|
|
survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 21, 2010 - 04:50pm PT
|
Nice evening view down the wall.
|
|
squatch
Boulder climber
santa cruz, CA
|
|
|
Oct 21, 2010 - 06:44pm PT
|
Looking down from the last belay. Notice last years humongous rock fall below
|
|
Hoots
climber
Toyota Tacoma
|
|
|
Oct 21, 2010 - 06:51pm PT
|
Yah! Thanks for posting mate, sadly I didn't bring a camera either! And a bump since this is CLIMBING related.
|
|
Fat Dad
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
|
|
|
Oct 21, 2010 - 07:31pm PT
|
That was a pretty wild outing for me. First overnight climb for me and my partners. Some guys dodging loose blocks on an early ascent of Tis-sa-ack. Tourists kicking rocks off or dangling their legs off the Visor and spitting. Then you get all the lights from the campfires down in the Valley. Really memorable.
|
|
survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 22, 2010 - 12:28am PT
|
Gotta love the scenery from up there!
|
|
survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 22, 2010 - 05:59am PT
|
Borrowed from the Pate hate thread:
Funny how this bullshit gets 300 posts and the climbing threads get 20.
I was just thinking the same thing, not being able to sleep at 3:30 NM time.
Thanks for the thought turd. 'Cept you were posting over there.....
Anyway, Fat dad, I hear you. It is memorable doing something like that.
I was 17 when Keith and I did the Direct, and I remember more about that trip than many other walls. It was just sooo big and daunting. I was a tiny speck on that monster wall, and I felt it physically and psychologically. We blasted hard for Grand Terrace, but only made it to first Terrace (uncomfortable as hell), but we still did the route in 2 bivys. We met up with Bryan and Mel on Big Sandy and went to the top as a party of four the last day.
I have almost this identical picture from 1978, except substitute Bryan for Buggs. Gawd I wish I could find that photo.
L to R: Mel J, Buggs, Keith, Bruce
|
|
climber bob
Social climber
maine
|
|
|
Oct 22, 2010 - 07:49am PT
|
survival..got any pics from when lepton and i went to attempt the reggae route?
|
|
survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 22, 2010 - 08:57am PT
|
Climber Bob, the memory banks are starting to grind a little bit. I think I'm beginning to remember that!
It was such a looong time ago, and there was sooo much partying!
Sorry man, I don't think I have flix of that momentous occasion.
Tell the story, even without pictures! C'mon, you can do it!
|
|
Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
|
|
|
Oct 22, 2010 - 01:13pm PT
|
yeah tell that one, I vaguely remember Lepton ("I am the ahyatola of Abseil") goin' on about it.
|
|
TrundleBum
Trad climber
Las Vegas
|
|
|
Oct 22, 2010 - 02:50pm PT
|
This picture was arguably one of the most singularly influential images in my climbing infancy.
When the article came out I thought "I'd be happy just to get me arse up the thing in a week, with a hammer and all possibly accoutrement":
A couple years later I made my first trip up the thang...
Hammerless ;)
|
|
TrundleBum
Trad climber
Las Vegas
|
|
|
Oct 22, 2010 - 02:55pm PT
|
Hey Bob (Palais?)
I remember you from Cathedral Ledge BITD.
You kept me alive on a dozen eggs and a handful of rice (and a lot of 'Chicken of the Woods) for four days.
I still have/use the chalk bag I traded you for gas money ;)
Any whooooo....
You and Lepton..?
Was that when (somebody in C-4/you guys?) got Curry burger joint hair nets, dreaded your hair (corn row braids actually) and did the 'Reggae Ascent' ?
|
|
survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 22, 2010 - 06:06pm PT
|
Thanks Trundleman!
Ah HA, I found some of the better pix, sooooo, I'll be sharing those now!
|
|
squatch
Boulder climber
santa cruz, CA
|
|
|
Oct 22, 2010 - 06:50pm PT
|
Nice shot! that's my favorite pitch, number 16 i think, maybe the best 5.9 pitche i've done.
here's another shot of it from above
here's a recent shot of the alcove, pitch 20
|
|
Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
|
|
|
Oct 22, 2010 - 07:07pm PT
|
Maybe I'll post some images later. Not sure whether to be a killjoy on this thread or not.
Probably done the route a half-dozen times. I think it's one of the most disappointing routes in the valley (given the obvious expectation of being on the incredible NW face of Half Dome, it would be the finest route around anywhere else in the world)
It's a long ass hike, you don't feel the face nor the exposure for about 16 pitches, rockfall is common and crowds are horrendous (and few alternatives once you've done the hike. There's very little classic climbing unless you lieback 5.11+.
Not to mention the hauling is reputed to be hell (wouldn't be sure as I've always done it in a day or one down-coat bivy)
I avoid it, even though twenty-something moderate pitches is kinda cool for sure.
Feel like it's one of those routes people do to say they did it, but dang Half Dome...it's so huge, and so beautiful, but how come it's this huge massive piece of amazing granite with so few true accessible classics. Give me Middle Cathedral any day.
Peace
karl
|
|
squatch
Boulder climber
santa cruz, CA
|
|
|
Oct 22, 2010 - 07:15pm PT
|
|
|
survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 22, 2010 - 07:26pm PT
|
Probably done the route a half-dozen times.
Why in the heck would you do that if it's so disappointing? Sourpuss!
Sounds like a personal problem.....
Either you don't have enough imagination, or you weren't any good at telling different partners no to something you didn't want to do.
It's all good though, this thread needs a little controversy!
I've only done HD twice, once on the Reggae, once on the Direct. I've never repeated an El Cap route yet either, nyaah nyaaah!
|
|
Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
|
|
|
Oct 23, 2010 - 12:04am PT
|
I wrote
Probably done the route a half-dozen times.
Survival wrote
Why in the heck would you do that if it's so disappointing? Sourpuss!
It's disappointing compared to what you'd expect on that fantastic face. Spend 30 years focusing on Valley climbing and you forget just enough to return every 5 years or so. And sometimes people who I love to climb with just gotta do it!
I wouldn't be surprised if I do it again! and I'd be excited to do it if I knew there wouldn't be a clusterf*#k crowd scene and I got a donkey ride to the base. I guess I'm a pleasure seeker!
Did the direct once too. It's more chossy even, and has sh#t chimney, but it's much more "out there" on the face and has nice bivy ledges.
|
|
D-Rail
Trad climber
Calaveras
|
|
|
Oct 23, 2010 - 12:46am PT
|
I love the Reggae route! It is so fun to rocket up 23 pitches of awesome moderate climbing. The history is terrific (Robbins traverse, and now Honnold solo), the endless free climbing is FUN, and in-a-day, or bivied out on big sandy either way it is an adventure! How many big walls are featured on the Quarter? $.25 ? And to those of you who say that a three hour hike is too far? Perfect. It is too far. And too steep. And the spring at the base of the route is poisonous. Never go up there.
|
|
survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 23, 2010 - 12:58am PT
|
Too far to hike in BUMP!!!!
Closer to the road please.
Thank you.
J
Spoken just like an El Cap climber....
Ahhh, Jeremy is back! That makes me happy.
Packing for the fun trip past the tourons down the cables!
|
|
climber bob
Social climber
maine
|
|
|
Oct 23, 2010 - 08:21am PT
|
there is not much to tell..we bailed from the base after talking to other retreating climbers(falling rocks and ice)..but i thought you took some pics of our silly get ups..maggie had braided "dreds"ect...
|
|
survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 23, 2010 - 10:16am PT
|
I remember that, Maggie was a sweety from what I remember. But I don't remember taking any pix. If I did, I sure as heck don't know where to find them!
Although I definitely swiped the name reggae route from Lepton!! That guy would make me laugh until my face hurt.
He was killing me with his multiple personalities on Tribal Rite. He called matches "Reggae chez", and a lighter was "Power chez"!!
|
|
Mike Bolte
Trad climber
Planet Earth
|
|
|
Oct 23, 2010 - 11:24am PT
|
Standing in for Peter. Nice shots squatch (particularly the first one)
|
|
survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 23, 2010 - 12:45pm PT
|
Thanks Mike! I'll give you some more to play with later!
|
|
2 l l
Sport climber
Rancho Verga, CA
|
|
|
Oct 23, 2010 - 12:52pm PT
|
Conditions this morning
|
|
climber bob
Social climber
maine
|
|
|
Oct 23, 2010 - 03:16pm PT
|
looks like a reggae party...
|
|
survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 24, 2010 - 10:13am PT
|
Mel the light bagger, forced to deal with the "pig".
Mua Ha Ha Ha hahaaa!!!
|
|
survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 24, 2010 - 10:26am PT
|
The beauty of Mt. Watkins, Tenaya canyon and some high country!
|
|
squatch
Boulder climber
santa cruz, CA
|
|
|
Oct 24, 2010 - 11:33pm PT
|
|
|
squatch
Boulder climber
santa cruz, CA
|
|
|
Oct 27, 2010 - 03:45am PT
|
|
|
survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 27, 2010 - 08:38am PT
|
Holy shuzznuck!
See what a real camera and an independant angle can do for you?!?
Wish I had a few of those kind of shots!
Beautiful.
|
|
Captain...or Skully
Big Wall climber
Transporter Room 2
|
|
|
Oct 27, 2010 - 09:15am PT
|
I heard that route was 4th class now.....Some kid did it in flipflops or some such? ;-)
|
|
mike m
Trad climber
black hills
|
|
|
Mar 18, 2011 - 03:04pm PT
|
This might be the one route I "have" to do before I die.
|
|
le_bruce
climber
Oakland, CA
|
|
|
Mar 18, 2011 - 05:30pm PT
|
211, what a killer image! Nice grab.
|
|
SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
|
|
|
Mar 18, 2011 - 07:19pm PT
|
BROOOOOOOOSE!!!!!!!
AWESOME!!!!
Thanks for sharing!
|
|
guido
Trad climber
Santa Cruz/New Zealand/South Pacific
|
|
|
Mar 18, 2011 - 07:52pm PT
|
Very early ascent of the "Reg" route by Powell and Roper-1962?
|
|
| Messages 1 - 48 of total 48 in this topic |
|
SuperTopo on the Web
|
Let us know!