Discussion Topic |
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Topic Author's Original Post - Oct 19, 2010 - 02:32am PT
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Sick of sutpid non climbing BS. Lets see some Big Sky State love.I haven't done much but I can't get enough.
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hooblie
climber
from where the anecdotes roam
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Oct 19, 2010 - 04:38am PT
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easy now
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mcreel
climber
Barcelona
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Oct 19, 2010 - 08:56am PT
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I appreciate it. There are some really nice 4-5 pitch routes up in the Bridgers. The good stuff is on the buttress down to the R in the photo. I only have butt shots of the climbs.
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edejom
Boulder climber
Butte, America
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Oct 19, 2010 - 11:26am PT
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Careful, hooblie has some "Old Guard" Montanan in him and remembers the Golden Age of Big Sky climbing;-)
Somewhere on this buttress is the:
Hooven-Leo Route IV, 5.9-5.10
This is the obvious line on the West face of Eeny that has a wide crack (almost off-width size). Two and a half pitches of up to 5.9 climbing leads to a section that leads right and up into some "hard climbing". This is about all that is remembered about the climb. FA Aug. 1979
from: Alpine Rock and Ice Guide to Southwest and Central Montana/ Ron Brunckhorst 2000
It looks like a great line with an awesome crack at the bottom--do you remember anything more about this climb hooblie? My guess is that Ron just contacted Brian about it...
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BMartin
Ice climber
Bozeman, MT
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Oct 19, 2010 - 11:42am PT
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Spare Rib
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Bschmitz
Ice climber
pdx
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Oct 19, 2010 - 12:20pm PT
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the wonderfully easy skyline buttress
so good, I wish it came in every year
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telemon01
Trad climber
Montana
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Oct 19, 2010 - 12:26pm PT
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I appreciate Montana climbing
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hooblie
climber
from where the anecdotes roam
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Oct 19, 2010 - 01:11pm PT
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ya, i remember a barrel on my back. post holing crotch deep breakable crust
with a layer of void and blocky talus beneath. every other hole didn't break.
or so you thought till you stood up and gawked,
then got dropped through a trap door.
and i remember two ice water runnels, one for each armpit.
and sneaking up on a gob of elk. that was the good part.
that pic would have stumped me. it was B.O. Leo's baby.
we wrapped both sides of a south buttress, starting on the west.
there's a sliver of stone up there, a 4' slender torre,
i coveted that thing ... to mark my grave.
turns out, didn't need it
~~~
nothing will be lost in terms of adventure
if you set out to follow that book's description.
West face of Eeny ... who comes up with this stuff?
1979, that much i'll vouch for
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TKingsbury
Trad climber
MT
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Oct 19, 2010 - 01:24pm PT
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TKingsbury
Trad climber
MT
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Oct 19, 2010 - 01:31pm PT
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TKingsbury
Trad climber
MT
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Oct 19, 2010 - 01:36pm PT
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TKingsbury
Trad climber
MT
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Oct 19, 2010 - 01:43pm PT
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TKingsbury
Trad climber
MT
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Oct 19, 2010 - 01:45pm PT
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hooblie
climber
from where the anecdotes roam
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Oct 19, 2010 - 01:51pm PT
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time for a manicure?
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TKingsbury
Trad climber
MT
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Oct 19, 2010 - 02:08pm PT
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TKingsbury
Trad climber
MT
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Oct 19, 2010 - 03:20pm PT
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TKingsbury
Trad climber
MT
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Oct 19, 2010 - 04:12pm PT
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from big to small...wish I could climb em all!
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Oct 19, 2010 - 05:16pm PT
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dig the dreamy shot
and the manicure crack, well sh#t, that's just stylin.
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martygarrison
Trad climber
The Great North these days......
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Oct 19, 2010 - 05:22pm PT
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Stone Hill is a place worth spending a couple of days! I actually saw it in the early 80's driving to BC and thought it was a road cut. I ended up spending a week exploring and climbing a ton of stuff.
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TKingsbury
Trad climber
MT
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Oct 19, 2010 - 05:25pm PT
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Oct 19, 2010 - 05:26pm PT
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What's that handcrack?
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TKingsbury
Trad climber
MT
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Oct 19, 2010 - 05:34pm PT
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no name for that route as of yet...just a random out in the Benchlands...
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 19, 2010 - 06:44pm PT
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Ed: how is that youngster doing. Just took my boy up on the tower for the first real time.
Tom I knew you would like this thread and have been waiting for you to throw it up there for a few years, but if you want something done...
Telemon that thar is some sick ice.
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telemon01
Trad climber
Montana
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Oct 19, 2010 - 06:52pm PT
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More sick ice...
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Bschmitz
Ice climber
pdx
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Oct 19, 2010 - 07:02pm PT
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GNP probably the best kept ice secret in the US. Havent got a hold of Rons new guide but I think he put some info in there.
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 19, 2010 - 07:08pm PT
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Couple of more from the Butte Helena area.
Telemon ar those from GNP that looks like some big stuff. I have been hitting up the Beartooths quite a bit the last 5 years or so and man I love that place.
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TKingsbury
Trad climber
MT
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Oct 19, 2010 - 08:12pm PT
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aye, a fun topic Mike!
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Anastasia
climber
hanging from a crimp and crying for my mama.
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Oct 20, 2010 - 12:48am PT
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Bump just because Bill's from Montana.
AFS
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edejom
Boulder climber
Butte, America
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Oct 20, 2010 - 01:45am PT
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edejom
Boulder climber
Butte, America
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Oct 20, 2010 - 01:50am PT
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Charlie D.
Trad climber
Western Slope, Tahoe Sierra
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Oct 20, 2010 - 09:48am PT
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Bump it up, great place and fine people......come on you Montana folk let's see some more goods. Clarks Fork?
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 20, 2010 - 12:19pm PT
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Here is some photo's from above East Rosebud on our first annual attempt to get to Ice Dragons. As my buddy said that better be some damb good ice as we walked for 6hours through progressively deeper powder and it looked like we still had 2 hours to go. Nice day to take the gear for a walk.
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TKingsbury
Trad climber
MT
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Oct 20, 2010 - 01:04pm PT
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TKingsbury
Trad climber
MT
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Oct 20, 2010 - 03:40pm PT
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Spider Savage
Mountain climber
SoCal
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Oct 20, 2010 - 03:43pm PT
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From Sky Pilot in the Bitterroots in my youth to rambling in the Mission Mountains in recent years, Montana is GUD.
(sorry, no pictures)
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moacman
Trad climber
Montana
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Oct 20, 2010 - 04:10pm PT
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Good one Burly Bob......
Stevo
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edejom
Boulder climber
Butte, America
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Oct 20, 2010 - 05:15pm PT
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Branham Lakes/ Leggat Spire
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edejom
Boulder climber
Butte, America
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Oct 20, 2010 - 05:18pm PT
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Dogtown
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edejom
Boulder climber
Butte, America
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Oct 20, 2010 - 05:19pm PT
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Allenspur
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Oct 20, 2010 - 05:19pm PT
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I'd climb there
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edejom
Boulder climber
Butte, America
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Oct 20, 2010 - 05:19pm PT
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Allenspur
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edejom
Boulder climber
Butte, America
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Oct 20, 2010 - 05:20pm PT
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Allenspur
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edejom
Boulder climber
Butte, America
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Oct 20, 2010 - 05:21pm PT
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Indian Creek
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edejom
Boulder climber
Butte, America
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Oct 20, 2010 - 05:27pm PT
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edejom
Boulder climber
Butte, America
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Oct 20, 2010 - 05:27pm PT
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edejom
Boulder climber
Butte, America
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Oct 20, 2010 - 05:32pm PT
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Fantasia
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TKingsbury
Trad climber
MT
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Oct 21, 2010 - 10:17am PT
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edejom
Boulder climber
Butte, America
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Oct 21, 2010 - 10:51am PT
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edejom
Boulder climber
Butte, America
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Oct 21, 2010 - 10:53am PT
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edejom
Boulder climber
Butte, America
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Oct 21, 2010 - 10:54am PT
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edejom
Boulder climber
Butte, America
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Oct 21, 2010 - 10:56am PT
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TKingsbury
Trad climber
MT
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Oct 21, 2010 - 12:16pm PT
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Bschmitz
Ice climber
pdx
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Oct 21, 2010 - 12:56pm PT
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TKingsbury
Trad climber
MT
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Oct 21, 2010 - 01:01pm PT
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TKingsbury
Trad climber
MT
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Oct 21, 2010 - 01:10pm PT
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TKingsbury
Trad climber
MT
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Oct 22, 2010 - 12:10pm PT
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TKingsbury
Trad climber
MT
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Oct 22, 2010 - 12:22pm PT
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TKingsbury
Trad climber
MT
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Oct 22, 2010 - 12:50pm PT
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TKingsbury
Trad climber
MT
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Oct 22, 2010 - 02:11pm PT
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TKingsbury
Trad climber
MT
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Oct 22, 2010 - 04:39pm PT
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The Mayor
Social climber
Billings, Montana USA
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Oct 22, 2010 - 05:02pm PT
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Let's not forget Montana's Sandstone Capital....BILLINGS!!!
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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Oct 23, 2010 - 01:42pm PT
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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Oct 23, 2010 - 06:06pm PT
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MisterE
Social climber
Bouncy Tiggerville
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Never climbed there, but bump for TKB and crew!
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ionlyski
Trad climber
Kalispell, Montana
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TKingsbury
Trad climber
MT
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Nov 10, 2010 - 04:53pm PT
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Nov 10, 2010 - 08:08pm PT
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Yow! I wish I had that nearby...
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hooblie
climber
from where the anecdotes roam
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Nov 11, 2010 - 07:06am PT
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grease? or rosin! what...lichen repair? aaaahh montana ... that's old school lovin' ;^)
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TKingsbury
Trad climber
MT
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Nov 11, 2010 - 10:23am PT
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sometimes there is a loose flake or two on the new ones...
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goatboy smellz
climber
Nederland
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Nov 11, 2010 - 09:01pm PT
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ahhh Montana...
interesting locals
excellent local noodle parlors, family owned since the 1800’s
HIPPYS
heavy baggage
climbing upside down and backwards
and the neverending Batholith...w00T!
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TKingsbury
Trad climber
MT
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Nov 11, 2010 - 10:09pm PT
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N1s goat!
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Capt.
climber
some eastside hovel
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Nov 11, 2010 - 10:40pm PT
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TKingsbury-Did I see some Revenue Flats in there?Also,is that the Tusk?
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Jello
Social climber
No Ut
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Nov 11, 2010 - 11:56pm PT
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Are people climbing on the Chinese Wall in the Bob Marshall, yet? Looked like good, endless limestone, to me.
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TKingsbury
Trad climber
MT
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Nov 12, 2010 - 09:55am PT
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Nothing from the flats yet...let me round up a pic
Not sure what the tusk is...
as for the Chinese wall...I'm not really sure...kinda far from my neck of the woods...
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TKingsbury
Trad climber
MT
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Nov 12, 2010 - 11:24am PT
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I've been following that blog Kurt - Good stuff!
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TwistedCrank
climber
Ideeho-dee-do-dah-day boom-chicka-boom-chicka-boom
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Nov 12, 2010 - 12:10pm PT
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Wow. That Mill Creek guide is one of the best homegrown guides I've seen.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Nov 12, 2010 - 12:22pm PT
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What's with that first photo, Goatboy, cilley on Climb/release?
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TwistedCrank
climber
Ideeho-dee-do-dah-day boom-chicka-boom-chicka-boom
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Nov 12, 2010 - 12:53pm PT
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BTW Butte is 5 minutes from Montana. It's not actually *in* Montana.
Y'alls can drop that lil tidbit at yer next cocktail gatherin.
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ionlyski
Trad climber
Kalispell, Montana
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Nov 12, 2010 - 02:18pm PT
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Hi Jeff,
I don't know of anybody who's climbed on the Chinese Wall. I've seen some photos of another formation in the Bob Marshall Wilderness that I think is probably better and I've heard it is unclimbed. I'll ask around.
Arne
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edejom
Boulder climber
Butte, America
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Nov 12, 2010 - 02:48pm PT
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Little climbers on little rocks:
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goatboy smellz
climber
Nederland
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Nov 12, 2010 - 03:23pm PT
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retrobolting Jay, 30 years hard time.
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Capt.
climber
some eastside hovel
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Nov 12, 2010 - 04:06pm PT
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Thanks for the Rev Flats pic.Spent many a weekend out there years ago.Someone told me you can't climb there anymore.Any truth to that?
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TKingsbury
Trad climber
MT
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Nov 12, 2010 - 04:08pm PT
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You can still climb on the public land out there, but the crags on private property are off limits...
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The Mayor
Social climber
Billings, Montana USA
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Nov 13, 2010 - 10:06pm PT
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Some unclimbed lines from my morning walk
Recent rockfall
More recent rockfall
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goatboy smellz
climber
Nederland
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Nov 13, 2010 - 10:16pm PT
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wow those cracks look good!
Is that near Rimrocks?
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edejom
Boulder climber
Butte, America
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Nov 13, 2010 - 10:20pm PT
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They ARE the Rimrocks, Goat--good call.
Mayor, if you didn't live so darn far away from me, we'd be getting out more...
Come for a visit in the Spring, sir Brian-- we have plenty of space and pads to keep you sound, and in one piece:-)
(you won't leave disappointed)
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tom woods
Gym climber
Bishop, CA
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Nov 13, 2010 - 10:31pm PT
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You guys are killing me, as usual.
I'm working on a major career change that should free me up some. My last job took too much time and still didn't make ends meet. I can't wait to get up that way.
I really need to visit my brother in Helena. Hopefully next summer, you'll all be hearing me asking about that batholith bouldering and climbing in the Helena/ Butte area.
I've loved every visit I ever made to Montana, but I three generations generations of family planted in the ground here in California and three above ground. I'm not moving. Though my last visit- sheesh. I almost stayed.
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Capt.
climber
some eastside hovel
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Nov 13, 2010 - 10:59pm PT
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Great china wall-A ways back there.Sixteen miles I think.Been there twice and did a little scouting around.Not worth haulin in gear IMO.Saw several griz back there tho.
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The Mayor
Social climber
Billings, Montana USA
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Nov 14, 2010 - 11:49am PT
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Billings Rimrocks, the bastard stepchild of Montana climbing!
A few more climbed but mostly unclimbed lines
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The Mayor
Social climber
Billings, Montana USA
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Nov 14, 2010 - 12:26pm PT
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A few more from the archives.
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Hard Rock
Trad climber
Montana
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Nov 15, 2010 - 10:04am PT
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Tom K-
On that Mill Creek Report blog check out the COMMENTS on the Labor Day entry. I cutting new ground on a route I put up with a single bolt. Since we don't have many up here in Montana - I've decided to have a bolt war with myself. Currently working on funding - ask the UM - Outdoor Program for gas and bolt money in exchange for teaching a class on bolt wars. It will mostly be field trips.
-HR
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TKingsbury
Trad climber
MT
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Nov 15, 2010 - 10:16am PT
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Good stuff Mayor!
Kurt, hopefully you don't come to fists with yourself over the whole ordeal...could get messy...
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Nov 15, 2010 - 12:59pm PT
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Yeah, don't go Yabo over it1
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Scott Cole
Trad climber
Sunny California
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Nov 24, 2010 - 11:46am PT
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I went to the Supertopo bash at the Boulder Batholith a couple of summers back. Spent a fun weekend doing a bunch of new boulder problems, and climbing the wedge with Tarbuster. Get up there before there is nothing left to do (you've got a hundred years or so.
Those Montana cats are cool!
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hotlum
climber
Oregon
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Nov 24, 2010 - 05:25pm PT
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Some of the finest roadside cragging anywhere...Stone Hill
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edejom
Boulder climber
Butte, America
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Dec 19, 2010 - 12:36am PT
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"Off season" Montana ingenuity:
Comraderie:
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Captain...or Skully
Big Wall climber
leading the away team, but not in a red shirt!
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Dec 19, 2010 - 01:42am PT
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Montana bump, ya'll.
I appreciate my neighbors.
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Floner-SDS
Boulder climber
MT
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Dec 19, 2010 - 06:23pm PT
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Lolo Pass
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 10, 2011 - 10:44am PT
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Montana bump
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Chief
climber
The NW edge of The Hudson Bay
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Apr 10, 2011 - 11:14am PT
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Montana is my favorite state in the union.
Great people, honest and hardworking, some will just plain shoot you if you're out of line.
Got dragged up some nice ice climbs by my onetime in-law Alex Lowe.
Some loved ones laid to rest there and some good friends abiding.
Hoping to get back for a visit and some world class trout fishing.
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Conrad
climber
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Apr 11, 2011 - 12:52am PT
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Thanks Perry.
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Chief
climber
The NW edge of The Hudson Bay
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Apr 11, 2011 - 01:11am PT
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Thank you Conrad.
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TKingsbury
Trad climber
MT
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May 26, 2011 - 12:24pm PT
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Conrad in the Boulder Batholith
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TKingsbury
Trad climber
MT
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Jun 22, 2011 - 11:59am PT
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TKingsbury
Trad climber
MT
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Jun 22, 2011 - 01:00pm PT
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TKingsbury
Trad climber
MT
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Jun 22, 2011 - 02:51pm PT
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 22, 2011 - 03:24pm PT
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Tom when's the bash?
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TKingsbury
Trad climber
MT
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Jun 22, 2011 - 04:31pm PT
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Mike, the date is set for August 27th. Details coming soon!
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 9, 2011 - 10:21am PT
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Stillwater River above Nye.
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Captain...or Skully
climber
Where are you bound?
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Excellent bump, Mike M.
I've only climbed in the batholith, but it sure was a blast. Hospitable Apes there, too! Yep, we'll be goin' back there again(and again!!). Cheers!
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 2, 2011 - 12:08pm PT
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Blatently stolen from Seafus on Montana Ice, but I thought this was pretty good.
(in memory of Mark Givens, the original 'Mr. Top Ten' and former Bozeman Ice Fest competitor, who would have turned 40 this week)
10. Anyone that purchased a BD First Shot should consider exchanging it for a proper pair of panties. You will never become a hard man without failing and bailing like its your job. By the time you bail enough to consider doing anything hard enough to replace your panties with a pair of man-pants, you will have the ol’ v-thread thing pretty much figured out.
9. People that climb G1 more than once a season should consider broadening their horizons. Scenery and adventure count for the majority of the ice climbing experience, in my obviously humble opinion. G1 is the sorority girl of Hyalite- she’s fatter, uglier, and easier the longer winter lingers, and seen more sticks than a toothpick dispenser. Pretending you are the first is impossible, even if you close your eyes.
8. If you haven’t already, you should consider skinning into Flanders this year. Its a great place to hide from the rest of the detritus that the glossy guide book has baited into thinking Hyalite is a destination venue. Take a left at Cody, Greenies, or go visit your rich stepmom in New England and witness the Willoughby.
7. The mixed climbing aficionados of Hyalite should consider raising their standards.
6. The ice fisherman of Hyalite should consider increasing whatever beer-to-fish ratio they are currently employing. I am disappointed not to have recently witnessed any sunk trucks, burned down huts, or smashed TVs on the ice. Sack up and drink like an ice fisherman, or stay home and watch football with the rest of the amateurs.
5. The organizers of the Bozeman Ice Tower should consider....doing something else with 3 million dollars. I think there are a few thousand non-profits in the valley that could do something useful with that money (insert your own Greg Mortenson joke here, depending on what side of that particular issue you fall on. Even I am not going to touch that one). How about some bike lanes and community bicycles, in terms of 'big hairy audacious goals'? Speaking of big and hairless...
4. The Ice Festival organizers should consider a ground level venue for the ice festival this year, so that the invited geriatric athletes don’t have to climb any stairs. Its going to be like the alpinist Hall of Fame in there- I hope there is some wet towel snappin’ in the locker room. Speaking of venues...
3. The Ice Festival organizers should consider an Ice Festival venue that is a few degrees warmer than last year. That way we can all dry out our wet gear from the day on the sizzling hot floor. Good gracious that was miserable. I miss the days of the open keg of beer in the back where you couldn’t hear the speakers’ bro-brah through the bro-brah of your ten bro-brahs huddled around the keg with you. That’s what climbing is about...not what they did, but what YOU did and are going to do tomorrow, brah.
2. Christmas tree hunters up Hyalite should consider driving a more appropriate vehicle for their task. That is all.
1. The fundraisers for the newly formed community bicycle non-profit should consider a Hardmen of Hyalite calendar to generate some income (profit). What hard climbing lady wouldn’t want to see the buffest and dirtiest of the Bozeman low-baggers sporting nothing but a swami and gaiters? If I can ever get these panties off I will volunteer.
Just kiddin y'all, here's to a great ice season!
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Climbing in Eldo in a T-shirt yesterday. Don't worry up there, ice climbing can't be too far away...brrrr.
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Archie Richardson
Trad climber
Grand Junction, CO
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Mountaineers Route- Lost Horse. Met Steve, Jimmy and their three wolves at the base. No one else around.
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Archie Richardson
Trad climber
Grand Junction, CO
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Who wouldn't want to climb Shoshone Spire? We did, but we couldn't manage the creek crossing (despite a serious effort). No worry, lots of beer in Hamilton...
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ryanb
climber
Seattle, WA
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There was high water when we were there this spring but we found an easy crossing on some logs at the upstream end of the talus field (the ones described in the book were gone). Got defeated by the heat though and bailed from the ledge to hang out in the waterfall...earlier start next time.
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 20, 2011 - 03:54am PT
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 20, 2011 - 01:43pm PT
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telemon01
Trad climber
Montana
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Nov 20, 2011 - 10:15pm PT
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nice stuff Mike. Glacier Park is icing up nicely now too.
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Conrad
climber
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Nov 21, 2011 - 08:55am PT
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Winter is in full swing. Exceptional start to the ice season. A photosynth of the ever popular G1 on Sunday.
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Murzerker
Social climber
Land of Goats and Tacos
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Nov 21, 2011 - 09:04am PT
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You guys are killing me here. 72 degrees with 84% humidity...I hate Texas. Haha.
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mojede
Trad climber
Butte, America
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Nov 21, 2011 - 09:24am PT
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My last capture before the snow flew and whitened the ground...
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Stewart Johnson
climber
lake forest
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Nov 21, 2011 - 09:30am PT
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bump for climbing.great shots ,thanks
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ionlyski
Trad climber
Kalispell, Montana
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Nov 21, 2011 - 10:03am PT
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Whatever you do, don't let Hutch drive when you go out to the boondocks. He will scare the livin be-geezus out of you! Other than that, a gracious Montana host who knows where the rock stands.
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 21, 2011 - 11:54am PT
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Telemon, got any more photos to share of some of that sick ice up there you posted in the last couple of years on this thread?
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TKingsbury
Trad climber
MT
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Nov 29, 2011 - 03:45pm PT
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TKingsbury
Trad climber
MT
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From this last weekend...
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KabalaArch
Trad climber
Starlite, California
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Damm! They sure do build those National Parks such a long way from the airports!
On our only trip to Glacier/Waterman International Park, managed to hike up the beautiful Bearhat Mountain, comprised largly of mudstone and siltstones.
The beauty of the Rocky Mountain horizontals is breathtaking! (in more ways than one)
Was advised, however, by some Wyoming climbers, that if you find yourself needing a rope in Glacier, odds are you are off route.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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sik!
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kiwi
Trad climber
Bozeman, MT
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edejom
Boulder climber
Butte, America
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Feb 10, 2012 - 09:04am PT
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February climbing (at times)...
edit: same boulder, same day
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TKingsbury
Trad climber
MT
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Feb 10, 2012 - 09:14am PT
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Nice Kiwi!
Kev - Maude S?
looks like the weekend forecast is calling for a bit of precip(50%), though still mid 40s...think I'll still be headed out...
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TKingsbury
Trad climber
MT
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Feb 10, 2012 - 09:23am PT
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mcreel
climber
Barcelona
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Feb 10, 2012 - 09:25am PT
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Holey buckets: ice, funky rock, and a chimney, all in one! Probably you can add to the fun if you do it while it's melting.
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edejom
Boulder climber
Butte, America
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Feb 10, 2012 - 09:27am PT
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Right-o, Tom--also met Joe up there (finally) while he was out playing in the bluebird day.
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TKingsbury
Trad climber
MT
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Feb 10, 2012 - 10:55am PT
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Nice Kev, get on that west-side development!
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TKingsbury
Trad climber
MT
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Feb 15, 2012 - 11:49am PT
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Tork
climber
Yosemite
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Feb 15, 2012 - 12:01pm PT
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Always great shots from the King.
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Tfish
Trad climber
La Crescenta, CA
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Feb 15, 2012 - 12:12pm PT
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I need to get up there again soon!
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TKingsbury
Trad climber
MT
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Feb 15, 2012 - 12:15pm PT
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Thanks Tork!
Tfish - Outermost Limits?
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Feb 15, 2012 - 12:51pm PT
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Tfish
Trad climber
La Crescenta, CA
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Feb 15, 2012 - 12:54pm PT
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Yep TK! Such a fun route in a cool little area.
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TKingsbury
Trad climber
MT
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Feb 15, 2012 - 02:46pm PT
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Yeah, a cool canyon to be sure!
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RoryKuykendall
Mountain climber
California
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Feb 15, 2012 - 06:22pm PT
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Brrr...I have to put on gloves and a sweatshirt just to look at those ice climbing pictures.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Feb 21, 2012 - 04:54pm PT
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What I appreciate most about Montana climbing
Unacknowledged/ underapreciated in her home state, but boys will be boys!
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TKingsbury
Trad climber
MT
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Feb 21, 2012 - 05:39pm PT
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boys will be boys? Um, okay Jay...
Just posting some pics here and there of the climbing we do out here...that is all.
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edejom
Boulder climber
Butte, America
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Feb 21, 2012 - 06:17pm PT
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Which Montana routes are/were FA'd by PSP again?
MINO...
edit: at least Conrad puts up routes here
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Feb 21, 2012 - 08:26pm PT
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See what I mean?
Thanks guys, you didn't let me down!
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edejom
Boulder climber
Butte, America
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Feb 21, 2012 - 08:42pm PT
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ANY pic of her climbing here (by you or any of her other "suitors") would sure be appreciated, Jayyoueye ;-)
edit: Having parents here with a loaner BMW doesn't make you a local, or even a Montanan for that matter...
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TKingsbury
Trad climber
MT
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Feb 21, 2012 - 08:48pm PT
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Nice Jody!
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edejom
Boulder climber
Butte, America
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Feb 21, 2012 - 09:28pm PT
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Cool ol' skool pic of your Dad!
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Feb 21, 2012 - 10:18pm PT
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Cool stuff as always Jody!
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Feb 23, 2012 - 02:25am PT
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Geeze guys, you're so defensive! i just noticed that in the entire thread no one had seen fit to mention any women Montana climbers. Then I posted an example of one.
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edejom
Boulder climber
Butte, America
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Feb 23, 2012 - 06:43am PT
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Right there, Jay--
Perhaps you are just looking in this one thread created by a Black Hills climber...
Plenty of Montana photo threads on here, and over at the blog of women climbing in these parts.
Rose and Molly crush pebbles way harder than Shanti--they just don't have leg humpers attached to them spraying about their every move...
edit : Maybe they don't count since they both live AND climb here
double edit: The following Montana ladies looking good ON the rock (no pro photo head-shot here)
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edejom
Boulder climber
Butte, America
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Feb 23, 2012 - 06:51am PT
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edejom
Boulder climber
Butte, America
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Feb 23, 2012 - 06:58am PT
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edejom
Boulder climber
Butte, America
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Feb 23, 2012 - 07:18am PT
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edejom
Boulder climber
Butte, America
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Feb 23, 2012 - 07:20am PT
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Jebus---and good for them!!!!!
Better to bolster the local ladies, than to diss on them with pics and BS from folks who have never or rarely climbed here.
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edejom
Boulder climber
Butte, America
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Feb 23, 2012 - 07:30am PT
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edejom
Boulder climber
Butte, America
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Feb 23, 2012 - 07:34am PT
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edejom
Boulder climber
Butte, America
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Feb 23, 2012 - 07:48am PT
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TKingsbury
Trad climber
MT
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Feb 23, 2012 - 08:04pm PT
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easy fellas.
Jaybro, please don't misinterpret...Pamela is a great climber, and Montanan, Props!
in my earlier post I just meant that this thread was about the climbing we've been doing, not the folks from the state. I believe before this the only name mentioned was Alex. No disrespect intended to any Montana climbers...heck, judging by this thread, Montana is just ice and boulders! ;P
Cheers!
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Feb 23, 2012 - 09:04pm PT
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You speak as if I somehow disputed some part of that.
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scuffy b
climber
heading slowly NNW
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Feb 24, 2012 - 12:08pm PT
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Thank you, Tom.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Feb 27, 2012 - 10:58am PT
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So, Tom, Moj, Pat ( even though you only had time to post, delete and run) don't get the wrong idea. Sorry if I was yanking your chain. I realize that the team of Tom Kingsbury, Kevin Hutchinson and Pat Kingsbury are tight, inexorably connected, and have a strong history in Montana in events, routes and general hell raising. Sorry if I caused any friction between you.
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edejom
Boulder climber
Butte, America
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Feb 27, 2012 - 11:57am PT
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Thank you, Jay--it means a lot to me to hear you say that; respect, mon.
Yes, things do get tight amongst people and climbers up here--there aren't many of us to go around for all of this fine rock...
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P.Kingsbury
Trad climber
the jeep
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Feb 27, 2012 - 12:25pm PT
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Online slander is lame. Hutch and Jays posts are skewed and not sure how attacking someone (on this thread or others) makes either of you feel better, but its something that seems to have some affect as i've seen it alot from both of you repeatedly on this site, wide fetish, and in personal emails. Of the forums on this site, this one was meant to be a positive one.
Climb more and post less? Bringing some one down, doesn't bring you up.
Have some respect, Pamela deserves it.
Patrick
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edejom
Boulder climber
Butte, America
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Feb 27, 2012 - 01:08pm PT
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Well said Patrick--heeded.
Jaybro, I have no problem with having my full name on the internet publicly, but round here were know as: moj, ede, Tkings, PKingsbury, etc...
Tom uses my first and nick name frequently to break up the monotony of blog/forum posts, and it's understood that way.
Not sure what you're intent on doing that was ?
edit: If we all were to be in one place together (say the Batholith)--P and J would be hanging around PP, TK and KK are off and about, and the Moj4 here and there. After that, climbing ensues and we depart separate ways. Pretty simple--dam internet screws up communication
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Feb 27, 2012 - 02:01pm PT
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Now Moj, don't you think you owe someone else here an apology for the mean things you said about her (and her car)?
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 27, 2012 - 08:22pm PT
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Yeah, and it hurt my feelings that you said that this thread was started by a Black Hills climber as if it were a bad thing.
I will have you know that I lived two miles from the Montana border at one time. Some beautiful rock in the long pines.
As it goes I think I have met all of you and you all seem like great peeps.
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P.Kingsbury
Trad climber
the jeep
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Feb 28, 2012 - 09:54pm PT
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Hey Hutch,
I must have missed some of your crudest posts that you made. (and my above post had zero effect on you)
First off and for the record, Pamela has established some of the hardest offwidths anywhere. Gabriel, is considered only second to Century Crack in the world of wide in terms of difficulty and was confirmed by both Tom and Pete. (even upgraded!) Simply put, its a masterpeice and damn right she should have someone there to document it. She's not claiming the first free ascent of some route that was ALMOST sent on top rope, like you have done in more than a few different areas around Montana.
Second, a BMW?! Its a jeep and she owns it. She has a difficult job in Alaska that not many people anywhere could handle, and guess what? it pays well. I am sure its a bit more difficult than smoking pot in your basement while your bread winning wife goes to work everyday to support you and your kids.
Third, leg humping?! Its called a partnership. I think we call what you do STALKING and your horse sh#t has gone to far.
You're a grown ass man, with a wife and kids, don't you think you should start acting like one?
What would your reaction be if some random person starting posting sh#t like this about your wife or daughter?
I thought we were friends, but with the sh#t you repeatedly post on here, we're not.
Delete your sh#t and appologize like a man.
Patrick
edit: I didn't want to resort to the bashing and sink to your level, hence the earlier post that didn't work, but feel its the only way for you to get my point.
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 2, 2012 - 01:50am PT
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Never had to wait in line in Montana. I think a lot of people are paranoid about the oncoming throngs, but most people aren't willing to travel that far or suffer enough to get the good stuff no matter how much you talk about it.
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mojede
Trad climber
Butte, America
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No apologies coming from my husband, he says he mind as he sees it and gets attacked, oh well, nothing new round here it seems. My take is that Pat and Pam borrowed his wide gear, destroyed a piece (a big-bro?) on a "famous hard-climb" by hammering the gear in place, is this the norm? Do most climbers replace broken/lost gear that is borrowed, seems pretty standard to me?
He has all of the friends he needs, he's petty but at least he faces it and deals.
Don't Pro sponsored climbers get free gear anyway? What's the deal on that?
Molly
Edit: I remember the night he came home from Veedavoo? --Pam had already started in on him and Tom for spraying and selling out, things like that. First time he met her, was with her stalker in tow, Pat was the suitor not the stalker, and the vibes just got worse..
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ionlyski
Trad climber
Kalispell, Montana
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Oh Ouch you guys! I hope you stomp out this little wrinkle of friction. Kevin has only talked great stuff about both Kingsburys and told me just how nice they really are. I looked upthread and it doesn't look all that viscious to me; perhaps some of the thread is missing though.
You know it can be tough Pat too, dealing with an economy like Butte for some of us ol dads, when the gal has the degree with the good job. Major commitment there to both the kids and the family and that's a choice, probably a better one than just going out and getting a job for the sake of a job.
Peace on the rock,
Arne
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ionlyski
Trad climber
Kalispell, Montana
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edejom
Boulder climber
Butte, America
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decipher and solve the problem--do not complain about the problem and its difficulty...
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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If Pat (remember, you said he was the Montanan) borrowed a tube from you and beat it with a hammer ( as he talked about on the taco) shouldn't you talk to him about it? You have his phone number, why bring it up on a forum?
The Bros have been out of production due to the death of the manufacturer, Pamela has been buying them for full price like everyone .
Edit; and whoever was really speaking in that last mojede post, y'all got an acid tongue, yikes!
Talk about slander!
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P.Kingsbury
Trad climber
the jeep
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i forgot about the bro and even had $$ for you last time i was in montana, you should have just said something or called and asked rather than go on a 10 post bender of slander and hate. this isn't something i wouldn't have expected from you. times can be tough though and i realize that every penny counts. i texted you for account info, but got no reply. i just transfered tom 100 dollars (20 more than a tube costs for your troubles) and im sure he can get it to you this weekend.
my fault for forgetting and sorry that you felt that online slander about Pam and I was the only way to get your cash.
Patrick
ps. for the record, i borrowed and i hammered the tube while projecting. It was the first piece on the route, the spring didn't work and it was sketchy. it was an iffy placement and if it failed, a 15' header onto a slab would occur. hate me dude, not her.
Pamela has never posted ANYTHING negative about you online EVER. The thing about about you guys posting, was Pam was trying to help Tom sell his pictures (of Spatial) and if they go online you don't get paid, thats all.
edit: sorry your thread got hijacked and killed mike. i was planning on never posting on this site again due to bullshit like this.
double edit: guess who the #1 stalker is nowdays?
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ionlyski
Trad climber
Kalispell, Montana
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But you're here now Pat and your site contributions in the past have been most welcomed, as well as Toms & Hutch's. It was mentioned that internet communication is usually off-based and prolly the case here as well.
Why don't you all get another Montana Bash going this summer and let's pull down on the rock and the bottle. If it's not too late. If someone retracted their friendship with me over a conflict not involving life or death, I'd guess they never were a friend in the first place as friendships go deeper than that. Whatever, I'm an outsider and it's none o my business anyway.
Arne Boveng
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ionlyski
Trad climber
Kalispell, Montana
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 2, 2012 - 06:43pm PT
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Thanks Pat. Its just the internet. You guys got so much good stuff over in MT with so few people it seems too good. I really appreciate the contributions all you guys have made.
Climbing is a funny game with strong personalities. I have fought with my own family more than once about stupid crap like this, but we always come around after a while. I hope you guys do too.
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xtrmecat
Big Wall climber
Kalispell, Montanagonia
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It is an appreciation thread about climbing, so here is my twist.
These three boulderers, two brothers and a friend, worked their butts off a couple years ago to put together a little shin dig for a few dozen lurkers, such as myself. The climbing consisted of lazy late starts, to wander around the pipestone pass area and boulder some of the finest choss Montana has. All the pebble wrestling was uber fun, even though that is my least favorite kind of climbing. Personal type tour of their finest lines and the whole area.
The introduction day was fun, but allowed many a Supertopo stranger to meet and partner up for longer classic lines not to far out, and if memory serves there were at least three carloads of enthusiasts taking a shortcut up to some of the best lines in semidistant area, all complements of these three, and maybe more locals. Laughter and lies abounded, freindships made, and fun climbing ensued. When the bigger party returned to the free camping in the primitive setting, all were greated by an extra hundred or so of the finest friends of the locals,oh, and live music to boot. I only wish I could have spent more time with them all.
And then there is this Pat character, and he is a character even though he is quite humble and quiet. I first met him at Devils Tower one evening, he and his dirtbagging partner, sitting aroud a picnic table looking for the free camping nearby. After exchanging stories of the days climbing, he learned of an abandoned bail anchor from me due to thunderstorm and weak as_ partner. I warned them of the bail anchor as bootied not to be trusted gear, and also let them know it was booty, for the finders. The next evening after another long day out, I was more than supprised to see the entire anchor, slings and all stuck under our wiper blade at the parking lot. Guys so honest and good, they wouldn't even take free gear, if they knew how to get it "home", even though I told them it was there for the taking.
The next time I see these two happy climbing bums, was at the Taco event, and lo and behold, it wasn't just them, but the whole gang is just the same as this Patrick character. Did I mention, he has this sick liking for the wide and squeeze, sweating and bleeding?
Met some wives and children, some laid up friends, some new lifelong friends, and some pretty dedicated folks. Cannot remember meeting any but_heads in the bunch. Hmm, I wonder why that is?
Any whoooo, that is my aprreciation of Mt. climbing and the fellers who contribute tons to the Taco and their own area. Pretty dang good people. I cannot say that about most of the other many crags I have been to here. I am astounded by the many of hundreds of gumby likes I run across while climbing at many of the other Montana crags. The Batholith crew is top of the line for sure. My hat is off to them, and door always open for any one of them. Loan any of them gear I currently do not have a need for, anytime. Give them a place to crash, a free meal, shower whatever.
Burly Bob
aka a local resident of a little further northwest of them.
Ps. I never thought too much about people bringing their dogs to the crags, especially remote ones, and leaving them unattended at the base while out for a few pitches. The crew also change my thinking on this. Love Kurts climbing partners, and he isn't so bad himself.
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mojede
Trad climber
Butte, America
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Rumi - There is a field
Out beyond ideas of wrongdoing
and rightdoing there is a field.
I'll meet you there.
When the soul lies down in that grass
the world is too full to talk about.
Rumi
Does anyone have directions to this place yet? I'll meet you there.
The real mojede
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go-B
climber
Habakkuk 3:19 Sozo
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Primo!
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edejom
Boulder climber
Butte, America
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May 11, 2012 - 10:05am PT
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It's all about the support for us stuck here...
Thin crack to top-out
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Hard Rock
Trad climber
Montana
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May 11, 2012 - 12:18pm PT
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Kevin - If you look at the number of body lengths that Ladd is above the ground - he is up there. A couple of more years and you won't have to tie into the sharp end anymore.
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edejom
Boulder climber
Butte, America
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May 11, 2012 - 01:03pm PT
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Patrick Odenbeck's comment after Ladd sent was, "Dude, that would be like a 50 foot boulder problem for me!"
:-)
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Topic Author's Reply - May 11, 2012 - 01:05pm PT
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Nice job Ladd.
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the kid
Trad climber
fayetteville, wv
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May 11, 2012 - 02:50pm PT
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looks like lots of nice climbing spots..
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David Knopp
Trad climber
CA
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Jul 16, 2012 - 04:20pm PT
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Just spent a week there-alpine climbing at beehive basin
then all the classics at Gallatin Canyon
Even did some sport climbing.
in California there'd be a f*#king conga line at each route-out there we were all alone, even on the 4th of July! Love Montana, going back in September...
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 3, 2013 - 02:22pm PT
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did the Falls Between with Jack and then hiked up the canyon where there seemed to be some other climbing objectives.
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Speaking of the holy Montana, what the heck happened to Kingsbury?
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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What a beauty! Climbed it less than a week ago.
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WyoRockMan
Trad climber
Flank of the Bighorns
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Montana was a fine place to cut my climbing teeth.
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 4, 2013 - 12:06am PT
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More East Rosebud goodness.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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I love Montana. Life is brutal and short there and tradition demands that your remains be left for the wolves, but the natives are friendly and the climbing season is a day or two longer than New Hampshire's.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Maybe, This year...
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Capt.
climber
some eastside hovel
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Wyo-First pic,Pinnacle Dihedral?Second pic,Strawberry Crack?Bozeman Pass pic,The Little Drill That Couldn't? Just curious.Wonderin' how sharp my memory is anymore. :-)
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WyoRockMan
Trad climber
Flank of the Bighorns
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Capt.- Pretty good memory! 2 out of 3 isn't bad! The Hyalite ones are correct, but the Bozeman Pass one is either Fat Man or Little Boy.
Edit- Pretty sure it is Little Boy.
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Capt.
climber
some eastside hovel
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Damn..Almost...Yeah,I thought that was Pat in the ice pic.Also just noticed that you hung with Mr.Jungst.Good man and a damn good skier.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Pat Callis......damn, I really respect that guy.
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 4, 2013 - 11:06pm PT
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Donini, the climbing season in Montana is 24/7/365. Jack and I camped for 5 days over new years and he is only 11. I don't think it ever got over 25 the whole time. You just have to put up with a little cold.MMM.....cozy
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ionlyski
Trad climber
Kalispell, Montana
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Ditto. Been missing Kingsbury.
Most of us Montanans, not all, must wait for awhile now before we can get too excited about climbing. Ice is there but for me I try to take my mind off the rock by the other winter activities till I get a chance to go to the desert for my fix.
So, I guess I can onlyski.
Arne
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Conrad
climber
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T Kings is around and active bouldering in the batholith.
http://www.montanabouldering.com/
He kinda soured on the taco as it was getting too caustic for him. Hopefully he see this and get back to the campfire.
Tom Jungst is teaching CNC machining at MSU. His oldest son is in the Coast Guard. Pat Callis hikes laps on the 5.10 jug haul out the roof at the gym, much to the amazement of the young generation.
I am honored to be part of this dynamic community.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Mike....regarding climbing days in Montana, move your decimal point one place to the left....two places for New Hampshire.
In Sedona for some sunny, tasty rock climbing......yum!
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WyoRockMan
Trad climber
Flank of the Bighorns
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Jan 21, 2013 - 09:45pm PT
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(mostly to put climbing content on front page)
Tom Jungst was not only a mentor to many of the youth skiers in Bozeman, he also was a great climbing mentor. He took a bunch of us kids down to the Pocatello Pump. We took turns riding in the back of his truck (with a topper) down and back from Bozeman. Probably criminal now, but then, Great Times!
He also took me on my first "alpine" adventure to Beehive Peak and opened the door to life beyond the crag for me. DO NOT leave your pack unattended prior to departure with Tom, fresh pineapples have been known to appear in the backcountry.
Some shots from a subsequent trip:
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mojede
Trad climber
Butte, America
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Feb 13, 2013 - 09:55pm PT
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T Hocking : here's a shot of Dane Scott taken today Cochise in AZ--he went down with some fellow 'zoolians including Hard Rock
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mojede
Trad climber
Butte, America
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Feb 15, 2013 - 07:50pm PT
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T Hocking , one was just posted of the boys, including Dane I believe:
edit: Hard Rock in the middle...
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Hard Rock
Trad climber
Montana
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Feb 20, 2013 - 09:25am PT
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Dane is on the left.
Michael Moore is on the right.
Had some fun downclimbing in the snow with rock shoes.
Good thing we were from Montana and knew to kick steps rather than just climb with the wet shoes.
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mcreel
climber
Barcelona
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Feb 20, 2013 - 11:34am PT
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Hey WyoRockMan, or anyone else who knows, how is Beehive Peak? I've had that on the radar for a while, but I've never been. Any recommendations for or against?
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Spider Savage
Mountain climber
The shaggy fringe of Los Angeles
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Jun 10, 2013 - 10:31pm PT
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Hanging out at Flathead lake this summer for a few weeks.
Any good choss piles near Polson? (mostly stacks of dinner plates)
Looking for a partner to bag McDonald Peak from the west.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Jun 11, 2013 - 01:35am PT
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Hard Rock
Trad climber
Montana
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Jun 11, 2013 - 10:23am PT
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Spider-
If you travel north to see Glacier Park at Kalispell (west):
http://www.mountainproject.com/v/kila-crags/106075527
Some more stuff north of Kalispell - Tally Lake and elsewhere.
Maybe a local will added something.
Stone Hill by Libby is worth an overnight.
Or down south to the Bitterroot for a couple of days.
Hiked 4 to 5 hours up to the north face of Harding once.
Bivy - left the rope in the pack - tag the summit using the ridge and hiked all the way down. The rope did enjoy the hike though.
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Gerg
Trad climber
Calgary
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Jun 11, 2013 - 12:45pm PT
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Spider,
I too am going to the area with my son, so I bought the $6 guidebook to Kila Crag (west of Kalispell)from local outdoor shop and had it shipped to Canada.
Go to Eureka area to climb at the very accessible Stone Hill area along the highway. The guidebook is for sale in town for about $18 at the large tourist gift shop with the woodsy feel, fake bears etc.
Climbing there is wonderful!
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Hard Rock
Trad climber
Montana
|
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Jun 11, 2013 - 04:33pm PT
|
Tad-
Ken hasn't been updating the posting to the blog but Cole, Pete and I have been doing trad around the corner by Pie for Strength. I wrote something about all the Sport Climbs being complete at the North Rim. I figured all the rest of the new routes will be trad (with an odd bolt). Being June Dane (and Tim) were suppose to put up some routes on the other side of the creek so that we would have some shady climbs to do but he just went sport climbing at the North Rim. You can never trust a sport climber.
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Spider Savage
Mountain climber
The shaggy fringe of Los Angeles
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Jun 11, 2013 - 11:19pm PT
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Looks like I might hit Kootnai canyon on the way up from COR.
PM sent to Gerg for Kalispell cragging fun.
Too lazy to drive up to Glacier. Been there, seen the zoo. Possible chance of being eaten by Grizzly bear while climbing in the Mission range has an odd appeal to it and only 20 minute drive.
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Robb
Social climber
It's Ault or Nunn south of Shy Annie
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Jun 11, 2013 - 11:47pm PT
|
Spider,
Kila crags has some fun top ropers- pretty vertical and mostly 10's if I remember correctly. If you're going out in the woods, take at least some bear spray if not some heat. Regarding the bear spray, remember to spray your partner's face first, then run like the wind!
Just kidding,
Have a great one and put up a TR for us when you get back.
Robb
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Spider Savage
Mountain climber
The shaggy fringe of Los Angeles
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Jun 12, 2013 - 10:30am PT
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No freakin way I am ever going to pepper spray a Grizzly. Okay, this is an animal that can cheerfully dive into a beehive, doesn't really use it's eyes that much anyway, and you want to piss that off?! Yeah, no.
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xtrmecat
Big Wall climber
Kalispell, Montanagonia
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Jun 12, 2013 - 11:53am PT
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Spider Savage,
I would be glad to give you a tour of local climbing this week. There are many climbs not published anywhere yet. I can introduce you to a few of my friends who have put up many of the latest routes and crags, should keep you busy for a couple of weeks.
As far as the bear advice, you may want to take what you think you know and throw it out the window. Pepper spray at the very least. Nothing or trying to avouid an encounter is suicidal in this neck of the woods. I have extra spray I would be willing to loan.
Burly Bob
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 10, 2013 - 09:04pm PT
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Blakey
Trad climber
Sierra Vista
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Nov 12, 2013 - 01:22pm PT
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Bump for climbing and not other bollox!
Steve
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 13, 2013 - 01:38am PT
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Got shut down by poor ice and 60 degree temps on Zach Attack but got a good tour of Hyalite on Sunday, got shut down by poor snow on the Sphinx after 3800ft of approach, but finally got to swing the tools in Mission Creek. Overall a great trip where I explored 3 areas new to me and saw lots of new terrain. I will be back for the ones that did not work out. My first winter trip to the Bozeman area, but it wont be the last.
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mojede
Trad climber
Butte, America
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Nov 13, 2013 - 01:43am PT
|
Mike, did you get/have any hassles getting to Mission Creek (land owner wise)?
I hope that Bud or his son Jeff have mellowed over the years...
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 13, 2013 - 01:47am PT
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Saw a couple of people driving out as we were driving in but no problems. Very cool canyon.
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 13, 2013 - 01:53am PT
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BTW thanks for the guide book Mojede. I think I saw Peter from the first Butte Bouldering event on Sunday up in Hyalite. You must have scoped some of the limestone in Mission Creek.
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WyoRockMan
climber
Flank of the Big Horns
|
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Nov 13, 2013 - 01:59am PT
|
Anything else in up Hyalite Mike?
Edit: Sweet pics!
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 13, 2013 - 02:18am PT
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Lots of stuff coming in or is in but it has been very warm over there the last couple of days. Twin is in but that was the only thing that looked really fat that I saw, but I know there was more. Lots of the high end mixed stuff looked like it was getting done.
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Aki J
Trad climber
Placerville, CA
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Nov 13, 2013 - 09:04am PT
|
The Bozeman dude on ZA was Justin W (I think)- he's living in his sketchy ford van up in Hyalite and always looking for a partner. Also, Winter Dance and the Big Sleep were reportedly linked in 12 hours this weekend. BA!
My contribution:
https://vimeo.com/77167744
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 13, 2013 - 10:10am PT
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Nice video
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 13, 2014 - 12:32am PT
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mojede
Trad climber
Butte, America
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Jan 13, 2014 - 10:09am PT
|
Camelot Tower--West Rosebud, it looks like :-)
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Jan 13, 2014 - 10:14am PT
|
There is some rock up there seperating grizzly populations. Somebody with Bill Gates type money needs to dome the place for climate control but that would piss off the wolverines.
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 13, 2014 - 01:44pm PT
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Yeah west rosebud on the way to mystic lake. The one side of it has to be at least 1000 ft. Of pretty decent looking rock. Any routes on there mojede.
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Jay Hack
Trad climber
Detroit, Michigan
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Jan 13, 2014 - 03:24pm PT
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Cragar
climber
MSLA - MT
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Jan 13, 2014 - 03:31pm PT
|
Scepter. great little icy pumper eh? I thought so or maybe it is compared to a mummy!
thanks for the pics!
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Jay Hack
Trad climber
Detroit, Michigan
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Jan 13, 2014 - 04:01pm PT
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Yup, thats how you spell it...and you are right, that thing is pumpy.
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mojede
Trad climber
Butte, America
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Jan 13, 2014 - 11:02pm PT
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Mike M, the old Beartooth guard are pretty tight-lipped on routes, but there was once a website that pictured and mentioned Camelot Tower. It said something like there was "a 5.10 route on it"...
I suspect a few independent lines have been done on it, but not many--good rock, just sooo much around to do that some formations lay dormant for decades.
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Sierra Ledge Rat
Mountain climber
Old and Broken Down in Appalachia
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Jan 13, 2014 - 11:48pm PT
|
Montana! Very interesting stuff. Where is Montana? Is that in Europe? Or Canada?
(:
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 15, 2014 - 11:04pm PT
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 19, 2014 - 10:41pm PT
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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Jan 19, 2014 - 10:50pm PT
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 19, 2014 - 10:52pm PT
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Mouse is that you on the horse?
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 22, 2014 - 12:14am PT
|
Took my family and some friends from Bozeman to Hyalite this weekend where they got to climb for the first time. Then Jack and I did a couple of fat Classics.
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Topic Author's Reply - May 25, 2014 - 09:42pm PT
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Charlie D.
Trad climber
Western Slope, Tahoe Sierra
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May 25, 2014 - 10:48pm PT
|
^^^wow, where's that Mike?
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Topic Author's Reply - May 25, 2014 - 11:48pm PT
|
East Rosebud MT
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
|
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Topic Author's Reply - May 27, 2014 - 09:57pm PT
|
random 500+foot chunk of granite above our camp this weekend.
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Topic Author's Reply - May 27, 2014 - 10:05pm PT
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Nice little spire.
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Topic Author's Reply - May 28, 2014 - 12:57am PT
|
East Rosebud Creek running high.
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ionlyski
Trad climber
Kalispell, Montana
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May 28, 2014 - 02:39am PT
|
Headed out to any area I've never been to before, near Helena called Blue Cloud Spires I think. Small granite spires and domes. We'll see what it's about.
Mojede? If we're done with it tomorrow maybe we'll cruise on down to the King & Queen; meet up?
Arne
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Capt.
climber
some eastside hovel
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May 28, 2014 - 07:48am PT
|
mike m-That little spire is the Bears Tooth.
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frank wyman
Mountain climber
montana
|
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May 28, 2014 - 09:25am PT
|
Hey..Blue cloud area is a couple of miles from where I live. Kind of tricky to get there. Last year some homeowner closed the road to the place and you had to walk about a mile to get up there. Might have changed by now. Might need directions though..Have fun..Theres also a place called Sheep Mt. climbing area over by Clancy.
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
|
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Topic Author's Reply - May 28, 2014 - 10:15am PT
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The Doublets were looking good. The Bears Tooth always looks so cool. Anyone on here climbed it. There is a lifetime of beautiful rock in East Rosebud alone. The spires up by California ice look so good, but I would imagine the access is tough even though they just sit right above the valley it is so much farther than you think. Also so many canyons that it looks quite confusing.
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
|
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 1, 2014 - 10:47am PT
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Would love to try the giant chimney on the right side of this wall.
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ionlyski
Trad climber
Kalispell, Montana
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Hi ya Frank.
You guessed it. We got all the way to a "road closed" sign with a phone # on it. Called the # and left message but they didn't seem to be interested in granting access.
So, off to Sheep we went. I had climbed there years ago but we gave it another go. Definitely old school climbing, stiff ratings, tricky pro, etc. Had a blast though.
Next day we went to the King & Queen near Butte. Kind of the same type of area and climbing but I think better rock, cleaner and more features.
Too bad about Blue Cloud.
Arne
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 9, 2014 - 05:19pm PT
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Sunday morning.
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wilbeer
Mountain climber
honeoye falls,ny.greeneck alleghenys
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That looks awesome,....Man.
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
|
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 4, 2014 - 05:35pm PT
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Jack and I got over to MT for some skiing and even a little ice climbing this week.
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
|
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 4, 2014 - 09:44pm PT
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One the many huge crags on the massive Silver Run Peak. Castle Peak I believe.
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
|
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 6, 2014 - 10:58am PT
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Anyone know what this is? We saw more florescent colored things in nature than I ever have seen. We saw pink snow that turned a much brighter orange when we skied over it and a bright yellow goo on the trail that I did not photograph.Jack climbing Lockheart with Whitetail in the background.We climbed to the end of the snow and ice and started climbing up the steep slope with loose gravel and rocks, but about 50 feet from the top of the ridge and maybe another 50 feet from the top Jack got freaked from the exposure and trying to negotiate all the choss in tele boots so we turned around. It was still a great adventure and he displayed great intestinal fortitude by carrying his boots, skis, axes, crampons, and all the camping gear in for many miles before we even got to touch the snow.
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
|
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 6, 2014 - 11:06am PT
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Tastes better than the yellow snow :).
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
|
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 22, 2014 - 06:26pm PT
|
Elk Lake at dawn in November.
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ionlyski
Trad climber
Kalispell, Montana
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Sep 22, 2014 - 06:48pm PT
|
Brian in SLC. Where is Barretts pinnacle? Is that near Dillon?
Arne
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neebee
Social climber
calif/texas
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Sep 24, 2014 - 01:51pm PT
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hey there say, just a bump, to help our FIRST PAGE,
HOWEVER, awww, yes, i DO love the post that i am bumping, too...
you are of value, ...
just that i can't always visit everything and post...
but today, is REALLY NEEDED FOR HELP, TO US ALL...
WILL TRY to bump some more...
this 'message will repeat' for a bit, in the bumps...
:)
hope i am helping...
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feralfae
Boulder climber
in the midst of a metaphysical mystery
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Sep 24, 2014 - 03:11pm PT
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Thanks, neebee!
I just got back from Fairbanks, and am catching up. I had a good time, visiting and staying with some of the tribe up there, but did not get to see nearly enough people. Had a super time at Friends meeting there last Sunday feeling all the good energy.
Nice to see this Montana thread being bumped.
Here on the Divide in Montana, it's about 90F, sunny, and beautiful.
Fairbanks was colder and wet, but I had some super walks through the forests and fell in love with the fragrance of birch trees all over again. I saw only three moose on my quiet walks. The moose are hiding from hunters by staying around town, I think. :)
I will send an email later on about some taco business.
feralfae
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neebee
Social climber
calif/texas
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Sep 24, 2014 - 04:30pm PT
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hey there say, feralfae...
say, i LOVED your update, here...
say, also, check out marlow's thread on
THE MEIJE ...
very woodsy, :) you will love it...
just saw your email...
got to go now, will be back, later tonight...
>:D
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feralfae
Boulder climber
in the midst of a metaphysical mystery
|
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Sep 24, 2014 - 06:01pm PT
|
Thank you, I will.
Bump.
feralfae
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 13, 2015 - 08:39pm PT
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
|
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 16, 2015 - 07:38pm PT
|
no climbing today but this was not so bad.
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
|
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 16, 2015 - 09:07pm PT
|
GII
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Capt.
climber
some eastside hovel
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Feb 16, 2015 - 09:47pm PT
|
If yer still in the area you should scope Pine Creek for ice. Green Gully is classic. Also Allenspur is decent sport climbing. Have fun!!
Edit to add--Be careful of avy danger on Blue or Green Gully. A friend and I got fully d#@&%ed off of Blue one time.Scared the shite out of us. We went home and went to the bar. :-D
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 16, 2015 - 10:07pm PT
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Had to head back to the hills, but have done the Green and the Blue. It was killing me to drive by pine creek to go swimming, but two days of tromping around hyalite and doing family stuff the rest of the time made me a little tired. Chico is really cool though and I had not been there before. Have you done pine creek falls or other routes in there? Always like getting in some new pitches. I hear things are really good in Cooke City right now.
Didn't our own mojede put up a lot of the routes in Allenspur.
Miss him, TKingsbury, and the MT crew posting up on here.
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Capt.
climber
some eastside hovel
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Feb 16, 2015 - 10:23pm PT
|
Yeah,I've done a buncha stuff up Pine Creek.Pine Creek Falls is a walk up,yet fun. White Twister is fun as well. Upper Pine Creek falls is more exciting. Grosse Vokabel is also a good one. Once again,careful of avy danger. That one is kind of a bushwack. Worth it though.
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Hard Rock
Trad climber
Montana
|
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Feb 17, 2015 - 01:38pm PT
|
Yes mojede did most of the routes at Allenspur. Was with him last Friday on some new routes over past Discovery Ski Area. The boy gets around and has a good eye.
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
|
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 17, 2015 - 02:34pm PT
|
Tell him I said what's up.
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johntp
Trad climber
socal
|
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Feb 17, 2015 - 02:53pm PT
|
I love Montana. If I could find a way to make a living there.......
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
|
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 19, 2015 - 01:03pm PT
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
|
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 18, 2015 - 06:41pm PT
|
First roof on the last pitch of the Ramp.
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Capt.
climber
some eastside hovel
|
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Mar 18, 2015 - 06:54pm PT
|
I was always bummed I never knocked that ^^^ off. After seeing your pics, I'm MORE bummed!!! ;-)
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
|
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 19, 2015 - 09:01am PT
|
Its still there and you can also skip the last 5.9 pitch and do a 7+ to drop the difficulty a little.
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
|
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 28, 2015 - 07:19pm PT
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Brian in SLC
Social climber
Salt Lake City, UT
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Mar 29, 2015 - 03:03pm PT
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
|
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Topic Author's Reply - May 25, 2015 - 04:02pm PT
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Spent a weekend in the clouds on Beartooth Pass. Got my first run done in Cooke City. Gets Confusing whether this should be in in Montana or Wyoming. Had to take the long way around as they closed the pass on us after we went over early in the morning. Hiked the Rock Creek headwall yesterday for full value as the pass was not open yet again. Headed home a day early as we were getting a little soaked after non stop rain all weekend in camp. Good weekend though and its always good to get in the Beartooths.
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Topic Author's Reply - May 25, 2015 - 04:06pm PT
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Didn't get to ski as much as last year due to the pass being closed for much of the time. Did get to explore in Cooke City quite a bit and saw my first two griz in the Yellowstone area. Also watched some people jump some big cornices and ski some sick lines. Well any line on that headwall is sick.
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 19, 2015 - 08:37am PT
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The worst part of moving to Colorado is being farther from Montana
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Cragar
climber
MSLA - MT
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Aug 19, 2015 - 12:53pm PT
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Hang in there Mike.
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mojede
Trad climber
Butte, America
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Aug 25, 2015 - 05:21pm PT
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Mike M,
I'm still around and kicking in Butte--I'm working, the kids are getting older and the Taco is all but a grand memory with good folk. My son Ladd is now doing some rope routes, but prefers hard bouldering cracks :-)
Hope your move away goes well, and you're always welcome in these parts when you come up !
Kevin aka mojede
edit: I typed "montana" in the search just on a whim--first time in a while since my last post...
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telemon01
Trad climber
Montana
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Aug 27, 2015 - 05:26pm PT
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Montana will always be there Mike.
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 28, 2015 - 03:11pm PT
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Man the Wedge looks so sick. Jack and I hiked up to it when we did T. Kingsbury's first boulder bash when he was about 8. We would be heading up Mutt and Jeffs if it were today.
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 28, 2015 - 03:13pm PT
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Good to hear from you Mojede. I will make it back that way sometime but up to my ears in work right now. If you are ever in the front range look me up. I did get the guidebooks you sent me a few years ago that was super cool.Tell TK I said hi.
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J R
climber
bend
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Jul 23, 2017 - 05:11pm PT
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Montana
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Charlie D.
Trad climber
Western Slope, Tahoe Sierra
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Jul 27, 2017 - 08:07pm PT
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Last week in the Beartooths, a whole lot of rock.....what a place!!!
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yanqui
climber
Balcarce, Argentina
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Jul 28, 2017 - 07:55am PT
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Blodgett Canyon, August 1980.
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Cragar
climber
MSLA - MT
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Jul 28, 2017 - 08:14am PT
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Great pics yanqui!! Do you remember any of the folks in them? Your Flathead pic is cool the way it makes it appear skinny.
I have a similar pic looking down valley...
Here's a buddy of mine up on one of them fractured walls..
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yanqui
climber
Balcarce, Argentina
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Jul 28, 2017 - 02:40pm PT
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Hey Cragar:
That photo of your buddy climbing looks like the west side of the South Face of Shoshone. As I recall the lines on that part of the face were pretty much pick and choose and a blast to climb.
I bet those old photos of mine were taken with a Kodak Instamatic, which could account for their poor quality. The people in my photos (except for Wendy) were all friends from high school. We formed a directed, tight-knit group, climbing together for about three or four years, after starting up in the late 70s (four years after high school). After that, everyone in those photos, except me, moved on to normal, adult activities.
Cheers!
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 28, 2017 - 02:43pm PT
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Great shots. Charlie had you been to the beartooths before. What a great place. The Ramp is a thousand foot 5.8 that no one knows about that rivals the classics in RMNP and Califonia Ice is the coolest ice climb I have ever done.
I have to do the Wedge sometime and need to get to Blodget.
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Cragar
climber
MSLA - MT
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Jul 28, 2017 - 02:47pm PT
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Hey yanqui-
It is actually a variation of p2 on Shoshone's S face. I have done routes on the W faces of Flathead and Nez Perce and yeah, they are quite teh adventure as the nice splitter you are on will inevitably end and you gotta figure if it goes or if you gotta down climb. I took quite a whipper on the SW butt of Flathead in a tenuous down climbing sitch, got to wave at belayer on the way by. Thanks for the history, I love Blodgett and all it's associated choss!!
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Charlie D.
Trad climber
Western Slope, Tahoe Sierra
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Jul 28, 2017 - 04:37pm PT
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Mike m, I had never been there before last week and was blown away! My son lives in Bozeman and has climbed and skied there so he suggested I check it out along with the Clarks Fork of the Yellowstone. I must say coming from a state with roughly 40 million people romping around Montana was refreshing to say the least. I skied last winter up out of Cooke City so my loop helped put the geography together in my head, it certainly is big country. Appreciate it for sure, BTW that Gallantin Canyon has some stiff grades, I got worked like a rented mule and felt like reporting a case of elder abuse to the authorities. Those Montana boys and girls climb hard.
Cheers,
Charlie D.
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 28, 2017 - 08:36pm PT
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I've done the regular route on gallstones tower and thought it was great. Kind of been hit and miss in galliron though. My second favorite ice route is Leaning Tree in the Clark s fork. That is a cool place. I guess there are some great 700 ft roux know routes down there.
Also I know you love ski and you must hit up the opening of beartoothpass sometime. There are multiple lines with 2000+ft of vert that you can do from the road back to the road these are some of the steepest lines I have skied but are some really wide couloirs with large cornices you bypass on the side or you jump off if you are bold.
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WyoRockMan
climber
Grizzlyville, WY
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Jul 28, 2017 - 09:21pm PT
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^^^^
That belongs in the Wyoming thread.
Damn Montanans already claim Yellowstone, can't let them have _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ Canyon as well. It's all choss BTW.
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 28, 2017 - 09:39pm PT
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I thought it was just northern Colorado
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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He's doing great!
Still climbing, still working as a cartographer, married, three-year-old son. His wife is a watercolorist.
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Happy Cowboy
Social climber
Boz MT
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Nice pic of Cleo shining V! Was this recent? burr it's cold now. Got Scepter?
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ryanb
climber
Hamilton, MT
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Scole
Trad climber
Zapopan
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Tarbuster
That was a great trip up the Wedge at the Boulder Bash. It was good to hook up with an old friend who knows which way is up
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Scole
Trad climber
Zapopan
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Tarbuster
That was a great trip up the Wedge at the Boulder Bash. It was good to hook up with an old friend who knows which way is up
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Ditto, my friend!
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wilbeer
Mountain climber
Terence Wilson greeneck alleghenys,ny,
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 12, 2019 - 09:55pm PT
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Taking a job in Bozeman can’t wait to get out there.
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tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
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Apr 13, 2019 - 05:01am PT
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Super Cool! WE loved Galatin canyon. the wall mart parking lot in Bozeman was pretty good digs for a few days waiting for van parts.. Clean and reasonably flat. . Closer to the black hills than Colorado??
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Happy Cowboy
Social climber
Boz MT
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Apr 13, 2019 - 05:51am PT
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Yo Mike, nice to hear you’re psyched for the GV. I check your Climb pics and posts regularly. Always great stuff, thanks. If I could help email: blackwerk7 at gmail. I’ve lived/worked/climbed around Boz for many years. Best travels with your move, Donnie
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Topic Author's Reply - May 30, 2019 - 07:49pm PT
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Gallatin Tower and some other Bozeman stuff
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