Offwidth tips and The Twilight Zone


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Stephen McCabe

Trad climber
near Santa Cruz, CA
Feb 23, 2009 - 02:58am PT
On the first on-sight lead of Death Crack, Dale Bard liebacked a short section. After placing a #7 or #8 hex at the base of the main difficulties, he jammed up the crack and placed another hex or two. When he got just above where Werner is in the photo, Dale reached up to that edge of the flake and started liebacking for a move or two and then pulled right back into the crack. What was remarkable was that he looked so casual while grabbing a lieback hold, calmly putting his foot out on the face above his head, doing a move or so and pulling up into the off-width. He made it look like it was the natural way to do it. This was probably the third lead of the climb. It was about 7 days after the first ascent.

Trad climber
the jeep
Mar 13, 2009 - 01:18am PT
did i beat ed to the bump?

the race is on!!!!!!!!!!!1

edit: the front page is almost 25% wideness right now!!!


Social climber
wuz real!
Mar 13, 2009 - 01:23am PT
Mc succulent, now that, is the stuff we tune in for, most of us, anyway, I think.

Social climber
wuz real!
Mar 13, 2009 - 02:37am PT
are the kings bros making it to the josh, 'he has risen' event? We may need ropeguns

Wade Icey

Trad climber
Mar 19, 2009 - 06:42pm PT

"Bottom line is if people demand more climbing sh#t, they'll bump it."

Wade Icey

Trad climber
Mar 21, 2009 - 01:16pm PT
never gets old

beneath the valley of ultravegans
Mar 21, 2009 - 01:31pm PT
I'm trying to recall a Animal Nickname story about a Spanish CaveDweller on acid, on all fours, having an epic at the base of Death Crack. Animal guy simply stands up, grabs a few cams and jams--"only large paws"--to the swing through. It'd be nice to have actual confirmation of any such validity.

I tried it once with the Leader of the Blue Balls Conga Line who, despite claims of having mastered handjams with her then North Face-sponsored love associate, couldn't get a single jam in. Might have had something to do with the full sleeve of tape. Anyhow, it was a sad display on both our parts.

Where's Vern to recount the FA?

Nov 9, 2009 - 12:14pm PT
Steve -

didn't you do the Rt side of Absolutely Free? Tell us, does it live up to roper's description?
Great posts from all!
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Dec 21, 2011 - 10:37pm PT
great pix and everything else bump

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Dec 21, 2011 - 11:20pm PT
Wyde wednesday style bump

Trad climber
Oaksterdam, CA
Dec 21, 2011 - 11:36pm PT
creek wide seems so much more accessible than valley wide

tooth fairy 11-

Credit: snowhazed
Wade Icey

Trad climber
Dec 22, 2011 - 11:34am PT
skating on stilts
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Nov 6, 2012 - 12:13am PT

los angeles, ca
Nov 22, 2013 - 06:46pm PT

Feb 3, 2014 - 12:50am PT

Gross Vegas
Sep 21, 2015 - 05:20pm PT
50th anniversary bump..

How many known freesolos has this seen?
Well I guess to anyone who led it pre-cams it probably sure felt like a solo.
Tom Higgins and Largo mentioned it felt like 3rd class..
And of course Werner soloed Twilight Zone, Cream, and Steppin' Out.
Wonder if he soloed Edge of Night too?
John Long thought that one was very hard..

San Jose, CA
Sep 21, 2015 - 06:25pm PT
thanks for remainder - and the book confirmed it : 09/1965

it will be the huge line this weekend to do anniversary climb.
Cookie parking overflow

Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Oct 21, 2017 - 06:25pm PT
Bump for the wideness...
Messages 181 - 198 of total 198 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
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