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CF
climber
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Jan 30, 2007 - 06:21pm PT
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Twilight Zone 1/30/07
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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Jan 30, 2007 - 06:40pm PT
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If the rest of this year lives up to winter in the valley so far, it will be the stellar-ist.
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Wade Icey
Trad climber
www.alohashirtrescue.com
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 1, 2008 - 01:43pm PT
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on topic
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Norwegian
Trad climber
Placerville, California
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Jun 30, 2008 - 12:45pm PT
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as an aspiring wide crack whore of viking decent, i discovered a new stop on the road to the twilight zone...
i went logging in my underwear.
hand logging at that. no gasoline engine involved. sweat. sun. dust. scratches and abrasions galore. progress despite discomfort.
my wife could only shake her head while preparing me guiness based stew.
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Double D
climber
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Jun 30, 2008 - 02:57pm PT
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Wade...Offwidths? Yeah run like heck the other direction when possible! If all can't be avoided, grin and bear it like a man, and don't forget the long sleeved shirt & pants with climbing-shoe rubber sewn in. (-;
Example...Only when necessary:
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martygarrison
Trad climber
The Great North these days......
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Jun 30, 2008 - 03:33pm PT
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Ed, the fact that over the years have done most of the ow list show me how sick I was back in the day. Steppin out is a really good one btw.
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Largo
Sport climber
Venice, Ca
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Jun 30, 2008 - 05:11pm PT
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ANY OF THE CLASSIC OFF WIDTSH THAT ARE LEFT SIDE IN, BACK AGAINST THE WALL, ARE GOOD PRACTICE FOR TZ (AHAB, LEFT SIDE OF REEDS AND LEFT SIDE OF THE SLACK, ET AL). STEPPIN' OUT IS LEFT SIDE IN BUT YOUR BACK IS NOT AGAINST THE MAIN WALL - IT'S STRAIGHT IN.
JL
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Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
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Jun 30, 2008 - 05:22pm PT
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You climb Ahab Left side in? Never tried it that way.
better not be sandbagging me!
;-)
Karl
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goatboy smellz
climber
colorado
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Nov 12, 2008 - 01:46am PT
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Bump for Hartouni.
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Jaybro
Social climber
wuz real!
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Mar 19, 2009 - 06:37pm PT
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"Bottom line is if people demand more climbing sh#t, they'll bump it."
bump
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Norwegian
Trad climber
Placerville, California
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Mar 23, 2009 - 03:16pm PT
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bump for spring psyche.
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Wade Icey
Trad climber
www.alohashirtrescue.com
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 26, 2009 - 01:23pm PT
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classic if I do say so myself
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TripL7
Trad climber
san diego
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Jun 12, 2010 - 04:54pm PT
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Climbed TZ in '74 with M. Moore.
If you do TZ, you must do all three pitches, otherwise...you haven't done TZ!!
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Tony Bird
climber
Northridge, CA
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Jun 13, 2010 - 11:01am PT
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from the needles guidebook:
"on the second ascent of yellow brick road, a climber got his knee irretrievably stuck in the offwidth right off the first belay. his partner rapelled to the base, ran to the lookout tower and got a plastic squeeze bottle of salad oil, which was used to lubricate and free the leader's knee. the squeeze bottle is still in the crack at the belay. [copyright 1992--is it still there now?] it is recommended that this section be liebacked. always climb safely and avoid the need for rescues."
great material on this thread. i had no idea offwidths were back in. just read over tom lehrer's masochism tango--will work on a new verse.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Jun 13, 2010 - 11:20am PT
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I did TZ around 72 or 3 in the pre cam era. Don't remember it being too desperate but you did have to go quite a ways before your first gear. Road to the TZ is not too bad but it is a tad steeper than the road to the Nutcracker.
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Captain...or Skully
Social climber
Seriously, Man, I didn't know she was Your sister.
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Jun 13, 2010 - 12:06pm PT
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That's gettin' on the "Wide with Pride" curcuit.
Twilight Zone! It's Real out there, man.
Some great shots of it, too. Awesome.
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okie
Trad climber
San Leandro, Ca
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Jun 13, 2010 - 02:56pm PT
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Well, Jaybro can use words like "good style" and "off-width" together and make it sound believable! Ha! Ha!
My first attempt at this test piece was a failure- but I was pleased to find out that it's safe with modern gear. The more you know...
Recently did the Left side of Reeds. Got that one clean. It's a good one to do because it's mostly 8" so unless you've got one of those custom jobs you can't push a cam with you- you have to lead the thing.
Every one of these things is a different animal, and some beasts are wilder than others...On Orange Juice Avenue I squeezed, I squoozed, I got juiced... to a frothing pulp.
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Norwegian
Trad climber
Placerville, California
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Jul 29, 2010 - 09:20am PT
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...is wide and wandering.
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Darwin
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Oct 19, 2010 - 12:03pm PT
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Norwegian; where is that? !!!
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Peter Haan
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Oct 19, 2010 - 01:26pm PT
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Darwin, that is in the early part of the Half Dome Direct Route which goes free nowadays. It seems this shot was taken from the actual ground while standing away from the base about 20 feet or so. Remember this was a really hard aid route that Royal and Dick McCracken did, June, 1963. IV 5.9 A5.
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