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survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
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Just run out the third pitch of Super Chicken, and yer ready!!
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nutjob
Gym climber
Berkeley, CA
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I've only done Generator once... I need to start making it a ritual on the way out of the valley whenever I'm not already trashed.
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yosemite 5.9
climber
santa cruz
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Up in Tuolumne, you might consider The Yawn. It is fairly easy for an offwith if I recall correctly. Difficult to protect at first. But very interesting with a nice hand jam at the top. It's been years so ask someone else's opinion first.
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PellucidWombat
Mountain climber
Berkeley, CA
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Dec 21, 2011 - 06:12pm PT
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What about changing directions mid-pitch on Generator?
I find the middle easiest right-side in, and just before I tunnel through behind the flake I switch to left-side in (seems easier for the tunneling & squeeze). It's not too bad to do once you get the feeling for how to cross arm-bars and rearrange your hips & feet.
I've TRed Ahab once, right-side in. Pretty tricky but I can see how it can be easy once you get foot t-stacking down. I'm at a loss to figure out how I'd ratchet up facing right-side in though. That back wall is slick!
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Largo
Sport climber
The Big Wide Open Face
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Dec 21, 2011 - 06:38pm PT
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I saw a shot in the new Rock and Ice of someone leading the Zone in slippers. That's seems terribly dumb to me.
Just saying . . . .
JL
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scuffy b
climber
heading slowly NNW
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Dec 21, 2011 - 07:43pm PT
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only if it's a problem. Some guys just don't seem to ever scrape their
ankles.
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Mike Bolte
Trad climber
Planet Earth
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Dec 21, 2011 - 07:46pm PT
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the frightening thing about the road to Twilight Zone is that it ends at the base of the Twilight Zone.
scuffy - you been up it?
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scuffy b
climber
heading slowly NNW
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Dec 21, 2011 - 07:51pm PT
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No, actually, I'm intimidated. Steppin Out and Cream didn't have that
effect on me, and in fact I have my sights on some harder things, but
somehow it just keeps getting put off.
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Wade Icey
Trad climber
www.alohashirtrescue.com
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 22, 2011 - 11:55am PT
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skating on stilts
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dogtown
Trad climber
Cheyenne, Wyoming and Marshall Islands atoll.
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Dec 23, 2011 - 12:02pm PT
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TZ was a on the to do list as a goal when I was living out that way just never got around to giving it a go. Tubes and hexes were the pro of the day needless to say a bit tricky. With today’s pro.(cams and big Bros) and a steady diet of offwiths do to a few seasons of skin loss at Veedauwoo I think I may have a chance.
Dawg.
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Alexey
Trad climber
San Jose, CA
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bump. So when this road is done what climbers do with big gear?
sell off on e-bay?
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nutjob
Gym climber
Berkeley, CA
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There must be some monster OWs in the high sierra with your name on it Alexey! People knowledgeable about such things should post inspiring pictures. But maybe that should be a new thread "Beyond The Twilight Zone"
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fosburg
climber
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Classic shot of Nic Taylor employing bad stacking technique; palms should face the walls!
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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No Alexey, they donate all unwanted wide gear to Jay Anderson, general delivery Moab Utah 84532 I have projects that demand every bit of it.
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Jim Pettigrew
Social climber
Crowley Lake, CA
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This off width stuff makes my hands sweat! Too wide to fist jam to narrow to knee lock! Lever, reach, pull! Breathe, breathe, breathe! Again! lever, reach, pull:)
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Captain...or Skully
climber
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Twilight Zone! Sweat is right. I'd be bleedin', too, most likely.
Yeah, that's some climbing, huh?
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Wade Icey
Trad climber
www.alohashirtrescue.com
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 5, 2013 - 12:53pm PT
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crøtch
climber
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Jul 16, 2013 - 08:07pm PT
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bump
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Rollover
climber
Gross Vegas
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Sep 21, 2015 - 05:12pm PT
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50th anniversary bump!
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