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Chicken Skinner
Trad climber
Yosemite
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Topic Author's Original Post - Sep 29, 2010 - 06:40pm PT
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What significant Yosemite climbs or events have happened since 1994 that will shape Yosemite climbing history? Some of them are obvious. For example: Dean and Timmy's sub 4 hour ascent of the Nose, Hans and Yuji's current record on the Nose, The Huber's and Caldwell's multiple free ascents on El Cap, Caldwells one-day free ascents of the Nose and Salathe, Alex's free solo of Half Dome and his quick solo of Half Dome and El Cap, Sean and Alex's 3 El Cap route link up and perhaps even Growing Up come to mind. There are more, but what other accomplishments do you think will be remembered in the future?
Thank you,
Ken
P.S. Meltdown and Magic Line should probably be in there.
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Chicken Skinner
Trad climber
Yosemite
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 29, 2010 - 07:19pm PT
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Weld_it,
I am looking for post 1994 accomplishments. Southern Belle was freed in 1988 and I am asking a serious question.
Ken
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Coltino
Trad climber
Midpines, CA
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Sep 29, 2010 - 07:47pm PT
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Here are a couple of the top of my head to get things started:
Meltdown 14c, Beth Rodden, 2008
Magicline, 5.14b, Ron Kauk, unrepeated, 1997
RNWF Half Dome free solo, 5.12b, Alex Hannold, 2008
Crucifix free solo, 5.12b, Alex Hannold, 2010
El Cap Girdle Travse, Chris Macnamara, 1998
Nose free climbed IAD, 5.13b/5.14a, Lynn Hill, 1994
Nose second free ascent, Scott Burke, 1998
Reticent Wall FA, A5, Steve Gerberding sp?, 1995
Reticent Wall speed record, 34:57 - Dean Potter, Ammon McNeely & Ivo Ninov - July 12-13, 2006
Heaven free solo, 5.13a?, Dean Potter, 2008?
Also, new hard boulder problems by the Berkely and crew have been significant from 2004?-present.
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Slakkey
Big Wall climber
From Back to Big Wall Baby
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Sep 29, 2010 - 07:55pm PT
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Steve Gerberding paid a visit to the El Cap Bridge crew last week. Cool to see him.
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Ihateplastic
Trad climber
It ain't El Cap, Oregon
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Sep 29, 2010 - 08:08pm PT
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Ken, I am not at all convinced that Growing Up should be on that list. That was not ENTIRELY a significant CLIMBING event... All of the others I firmly agree with. I would hope that not all significant activity are speed events, that might not paint the right picture of what the Valley has done for global climbing advancement. (Whatever the eff that is...)
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Gene
Social climber
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Sep 29, 2010 - 08:14pm PT
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oNeil & Potter - Watkins, HD, and El Cap in a day
Ooops. Warbler aleady posted. Mind blowing day.
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Chicken Skinner
Trad climber
Yosemite
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 29, 2010 - 08:32pm PT
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I listed Growing Up because I think it will perhaps have an impact, whether good or bad, and be talked about for years to come. It is a style and ethics issue. I could be wrong. Anyway, that one has been talked about enough in other threads and I don't want it to take over this one. Keep them coming everyone, all awesome achievements.
Ken
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bjj
climber
beyond the sun
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Sep 29, 2010 - 08:55pm PT
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I think Alex Honnold's free solo of HD is the single most mind blowing thing ever to happen in Yosemite. I really do. That is some next level sh#t, right there.
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wildone
climber
Troy, MT
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Sep 29, 2010 - 08:59pm PT
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And please, let's not for get that Steve Gerberding didn't climb Reticent Wall solo, people! Scott Stowe and Laurie Stowe were there too.
Carry on.
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HighTraverse
Trad climber
Bay Area
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Sep 29, 2010 - 09:37pm PT
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Events that significantly affected climbing/climbers
Camp 4 on Nat'l Historic Register.
And renamed from Sunnyside
OB camping in the valley nearly eliminated.
Valley flood Jan 1-3 1997. Resulted in major changes in YNP development plans. From widening 140 to changes in Camp4.
Harding, Bachar, David Brower, Jules Eichorn die.
Ken Yeager (and Chris Mac and others) clean up El Cap base.
Ken et al create Facelift.
Facelift collects 160,000 lbs
Glen Denny publishes old Yosemite photos.
Stonemasters book published
Chris Mac creates SuperTopo
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Sep 29, 2010 - 09:53pm PT
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1994: The Shaft 99% freed - by far the hardest route on El Cap for many years
1994: Lurking Fear 95% freed
1995: Alex Huber repeats the Salathe' free (via his variations). Prior to this, some people had difficulty believing Skinner and Piana had freed it in 1988 (they were way ahead of their time)
1995: How the West Was Won
1995: Mecca development started, with routes like The Peasant, Empire, Counterparts.
1995: Galactic Hitchhiker. Although it followed existing routes for more than halfway, it may have been one of the first "slab big walls" with hauling on a slab. Also interesting because the FA guys did not expect it to be repeated in a day.
1997: Magic Line 5.14b crack w/ preplaced gear, unrepeated
1998: Alex and Thomas Huber establish Freerider and El Nino to start their string of El Cap free routes
1998: El Cap Girdle Traverse, 75 pitches
1998-99: Eric Gabel and friends do several new routes in the Hawkman's Escape area
1999: Mt. Watkins South Face freed, Escape From Freedom freed
2000: Golden Gate
2000: Lurking Fear 100% freed
2000: Sean Jones and friends do several new routes in the upper Ribbon Falls Amphitheater
2001: El Corazon
2002: The Quantum Mechanic, Washington Column South Face freed, Gates of Delerium, The Twisted Road, Quo Vadis
2003: Zodiac freed, El Cap West Buttress freed
2004: Dihedral Wall freed
2004: Milestone (Basket Dome)
2004: Arrowhead Arete East Wall, Camp Four Terror Free, Elephant Man (Cedar Wright, Lucho Rivera, Renan Ozturk)
2004-05: Flying in the Mountains, Homeword (Parkline Slab)
2005: L'Appat
2006: Southern Belle repeated [stole this from later post!]
2007: preMuir
2007: Arcturus freed
2007-09: Eric Gabel and friends establish many new routes at Reed's
2008: Magic Mushroom freed
2008: The Secret Passage
2009: Border Country
Freerider is the most significant route of the period - it is accessible to the top climbers, but still a big challenge.
Another popular new development is doing El Cap and Half Dome aid routes in under 24 hours.
I don't count free solos or Nose speed records - those styles are not accessible to very many people. Although they definitely demonstrate an amazing level of mastery for climbers like Yuji, Hans, Dean, Timmy, the Hubers, and Alex.
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Ihateplastic
Trad climber
It ain't El Cap, Oregon
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Sep 30, 2010 - 02:30am PT
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Isn't FACELIFT a significant climbing-related event? It is for me!
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Matt
Trad climber
primordial soup
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Sep 30, 2010 - 03:02am PT
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lynn hill (if in your time frame?) and then both tommy and beth free climbing the nose.
(sorry scott burke)
and with respect to everyone else and their skills and efforts wrt speed climbing on el cap, for me the top story in that realm is that nobody seems able to hold hans' record for long.
what do those 2 have in common?
1) the nose is an icon like no other climb, anywhere in the world
2) don't kid yourselves, most of the most talented yosemite climbers have all either tried or given up before even trying, in both those cases.
edit- interesting to consider stanley's yosemite resume across that period, especially as compared to more famous and published faces.
pps- honorable mention: matt and jack fire NWFoHD IAD with no idea really how to aid climb- alex lowe would have said we were the best climbers in the world that day in 06 (thanks again to the late micah dash for a 5th pitch primer on jugging... rest in peace).
final edit responding to post below this one:
you left out andy lewis' stark naked free solo of the lost arrow line earlier this yr
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Fish Finder
Social climber
THE BOTTOM OF MY HEART
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Sep 30, 2010 - 03:34am PT
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Steve Wampler reaches the summit!
2010
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